iPhone SE 2022 LCD and Digitizer Replacement

Written By: Dominik Schnabelrauch

Comments: 12

iPhone SE 2022 LCD and Digitizer Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

Use this guide to fix a cracked or broken screen by replacing just the bare front panel, a.k.a. LCD and digitizer assembly, in the iPhone SE 2022.

This guide was performed on the A2783 (international) model.

If the frame is deformed, it's important to replace it to make sure the new screen will mount correctly and won’t suffer damage from uneven pressure

This guide shows how to replace only the iPhone SE 2022 LCD and digitizer assembly (a.k.a. the bare “front panel”). This requires you to transfer several components from your original screen to the new one before installing it—including the front-facing camera, earpiece speaker, LCD shield plate, and home button assembly.

In order to maintain Touch ID functionallity it's important to carefully transfer the original home/Touch ID sensor onto the new display. The solid-state home button is paired to its original logic board by Apple, so replacing it will render it unusable.

If you do not replace the adhesive seals when reassembling, your device will function normally, but will most likely lose its water protection.

You’ll need replacement adhesive to reattach components when reassembling the device.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Power off your phone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

Step 2

If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.
Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.

Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?

Sloan Looney -

Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?

Clay Eickemeyer -

I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.

Clay Eickemeyer -

what fix kit?

Meow Purr -

My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either

WILLIAM HARRIS -

Make sure you check inside the black boxes after emptying them. My pick was stuck inside one of the boxes.

AndyF -

My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary

Gijs Leegwater -

Step 3

If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the screen.

Step 4

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone just above the home button—one on the front, and one on the back.
Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 5

Pull the blue handle forwards to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Step 6

Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the display and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.
Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick under the screen's plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle a quarter turn.
Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next two steps.

Step 7

If you're using a suction handle, follow the next two steps to loosen the rear glass.
Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the screen for at least two minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

Step 8

Secure a suction handle to the lower half of the front panel, as close to the home button as possible.
Lift the front panel with the suction handle to create a small gap between the front panel and the frame.
If you have trouble creating a gap, apply more heat to the bottom half of the screen to further soften the adhesive. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.
Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen's plastic bezel.

Step 9

Slide the opening pick to the bottom right corner to slice the front panel adhesive.
Insert a second opening pick at the bottom edge of your phone.
Slide the opening pick to the bottom left corner to slice the adhesive.
Leave the opening picks in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 10

If the adhesive becomes hard to cut, it has most likely cooled down. Use your iOpener for two to three minutes to reheat it.
Slide the bottom left opening pick along the left edge of your phone to slice the adhesive.
Stop near the top left corner of the display.
Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.

Step 11

Slide the bottom right opening pick along the right edge of your phone to slice the adhesive.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage internal components.
Stop near the top right corner of the display.

Step 12

Remove the opening picks.
Gently pull up on the suction handle to lift up the bottom edge of the display.
Do not raise the display more than 15º or you'll risk straining or tearing the ribbon cables connecting the display.
Remove the suction handle.

Step 13

Slide an opening pick underneath the top left corner of the display.
Slide the opening pick around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to slice the remaining adhesive.

Step 14

Slide the display assembly slightly down in direction of the charging port to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

Step 15

Open the phone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
Don't try to fully separate the display from the phone assembly yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the logic board.
Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

Step 16

Remove the four Phillips screws securing the lower display cable bracket:
Two 1.2 mm-long screws
Two 2.8 mm-long screws
Throughout this guide, keep careful track of your screws so that each one goes back where it came from during reassembly. Installing a screw in the wrong place can cause permanent damage.

Step 17

Use a pair of tweezers to carefully remove the lower display cable bracket.

Step 18

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the battery by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 19

The display and digitizer cables run on top of each other. To avoid cable damage always start by disconnecting the upper cable first and never try to disconnect both at the same time.
Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the bottom two display cables by prying the connectors straight up from their sockets.
To re-attach press connectors like this, press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 20

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.2 mm-long screws securing the front sensor assembly bracket.

Step 21

Use a pair of tweezers to carefully remove the front sensor assembly bracket.

Step 22

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the front sensor assembly by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 23

Remove the display assembly.

Step 24

Remove the four screws securing the home/Touch ID sensor bracket:
Three 1.2 mm-long Y000 screws
One 1.1 mm-long Y000 screw

Step 25

Use a pair of tweezers to carefully remove the home/Touch ID sensor bracket.

Step 26

Use an opening tool to pry under the left edge of the home/Touch ID sensor cable connector to disconnect it from its socket.
If the entire connector begins to flip up without separating, press down on the cable at the top edge of the connector with the flat end of a spudger, while simultaneously prying up the left edge of the connector. Be very careful not to damage the cable or connector, or you will permanently disable the sensor.

Step 27

Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the screen where the home/Touch ID button is located for at least two minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath its cable.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

Step 28

Carefully slide an opening pick underneath the home/Touch ID sensor cable and separate it from the back side of the display panel.
Avoid damaging the cable connector during this procedure. The home/Touch ID sensor cable is wrapped around it and abrupt movements might tear the connector cable. Try to fold the connector up in direction of the selfie camera and out of the cables way instead.

Step 29

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the home/Touch ID sensor assembly by lifting it through the front side of the display.
To reinstall, first feed the cable through the hole in the front of the display as shown.
Your replacement part may come with extra Y000 screws already installed near the Home Button. Remove the unnecessary screws so that you can reinstall the home button bracket.

Do you know where I can get a replacement part

GamErPlayer -

Step 30

Unfasten the three screws securing the earpiece speaker bracket:
Two 2.6 mm-long Phillips screws
One 1.6 mm-long Phillips screw

Step 31

Use a pair of tweezers to carefully remove the earpiece speaker bracket.

Step 32

Use a pair of tweezers to lift the front facing camera out of its socket and swing it to the left to get free access to the earpiece speaker.
Avoid straining the front camera cable during this procedure.

Step 33

Unfasten the two screws securing the earpiece speaker:
One 1.8 mm-long Phillips screw
One 2.3 mm-long Phillips screw

Step 34

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the earpiece speaker.

Step 35

Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen to loosen the adhesive securing the front camera and sensor assembly. Apply the iOpener for at least 2 minutes.

Step 36

Use the pointed end of a spudger to carefully pry the proximity sensor out of its recess on the front panel.
Try to get your tool all the way underneath the sensor to pry it up. If you pry only against the cable, the sensor may separate from the cable assembly and will need replacement. However, this doesn't matter If you're replacing the sensor/cable assembly anyway.

Step 37

Use the pointed of a spudger to carefully pry the ambient light sensor out of its recess on the front panel.

Step 38

Slide an opening pick underneath the front camera and sensor cable assembly to separate it from the front panel.
If you're struggling the separate the cable from the front panel, reapply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen to further loosen the adhesive. Apply the iOpener for at least one minute.

Step 39

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the front camera and sensor assembly cable.

Step 40

Use a screwdriver to remove the three 1.1 mm-long Y000 screws securing the LCD and digitizer brackets.

Step 41

Use a pair of tweezer to remove the top LCD and digitizer bracket.

Step 42

Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the bottom LCD and digitizer bracket for at least two minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath.

Step 43

The LCD and digitizer cable is split into five cables underneath the bracket. Avoid tearing them when separating the bracket from the screen.
Carefully slide an opening pick underneath the right edge of the LCD and digitizer bracket to separate it from the screen.

Step 44

Carefully slide an opening pick underneath the left edge of the LCD and digitizer bracket to separate it from the screen.

Step 45

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the bottom LCD and digitizer bracket.
Only the LCD and digitizer remain.

Conclusion

If possible, turn on your device and test your repair before installing new adhesive and resealing.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

The best way to secure the new screen is to apply a sheet of custom-cut double-sided tape to the frame and place the screen back in its original position.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.

Author

Dominik Schnabelrauch

Member since: 23/11/16

201162 Reputation

4 comments

Hi I would like to ask if LCD for iPhone SE 2020/ iPhone 8 is compatible with new iPhone SE 3.gen 2022?

Second question is if after replacement there is notification about non genuine LCD like have new iPhones?

Ondřej Hnyk -

Probably late for you, but for the next bloke, the 3rd part screen that worked for the iPhone 8/SE2020 WILL NOT work on the iPhone SE 3rd gen 2022.
An original screen for the SE2020 or a 3rd party LCD specifically designed for the SE2022 will work.

Felipe Leal -

Where can I buy the replacement LCD/digitizer, or a replacement screen?

AIDEN DEJONG -

AliExpress or your local parts dealer :)

Felipe Leal -