iPhone 5s Front Facing Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement

ifixit supplied a set of replacement philips screws (marked “Liberate!”). Thanks but I’m sticking with the pentalobe since they fit more securely than philips which have a chance of stripping if not held with the right amount of pressure.

“cheater” reading glasses are a big help. Carolyn

In this step, it is the P02 screwdriver from the kit (see that the nib has five sides , exactly for ‘pentalobe’ screws). All the other steps involving screws it was the Philips 000 (there was a third screwdriver Y 000 in the kit which I did not use). Did not have any problems at all removing and readding screws back through the process.

I'm trying to fix my 5s’s but one has some water damage, and impeccable screen but won't turn on,then I have another one that has no water damage, screens a bit busted but won't turn because of the screen. If I use the good screen from the water damaged phone would it work?

After removing the phone from a very good plastic case and before I started the repair I cleaned the entire phone with a soft cloth misted with rubbing alcohol. That removes all the grunge which builds up in the seams of the phone and the small spaces inside the case. Having a clean phone to work on makes the job a lot easier and prevents grunge from falling into the phone.

General comment about the screwdriver tips and reassembly: If you get a screw nicely set in place using tweezers and then use the screwdriver, the magnet will probably pull the screw out before you can tighten it. If this is a problem use just the tip (without the handle) to start the screw, then tighten using the handle.

DO NOT disconnect the screen.

Having two SE’s needing batteries, I ordered an extra battery. The extra battery did not come with the Phillips replacement screws. It would be helpful if every battery came with a set of case replacement screws.

Upon reassembly I found it useful to squeeze the phone right above the screws so everything lines up nice. I noticed that when I didn’t do this the new Phillips screws were trying to go in crooked. So just holding the phone together helps.

hello i am replacing my iphone 5s battery but i am stucked because the adhesive broke whiles pulling it out

before i started i made sure my battery was 0% but i am afraid that when i mistakenly puncture it with the spudger it might catch fire

please is the battery capable of catching fire when it has no power (0%)?

please can someone give me the honest answers before i continue

thank you

The screws in my iPhoneSE were not P2 (1,2mm) but P1 (0,8mm). I had to order an extra screwdriver which is not available at iFixit.

Instructions were fine until removing the battery , No adhesive strip at the bottom of the battery . Unable to remove battery as the battery was stuck sold with adhesive but could not get at the adhesive strip to remove battery . seems whoever put the battery together did not put a strip across the bottom . Had the phone from new and this was the first time I tried to replace the battery . Now I need a new phone

Instructions fine until removing the battery . No strip at bottom of the battery hence impossible to get at the adhesive strips around the battery . This must have been done in the factory as I have had the phone from new and this was the first time the battery was being replaced . Cheesed off as I now need a new phone

30 minutes - to an hour? I gave up after removing the screws and spending an hour trying to lift the display with a suction pad.

iPhone 5s maderbored

Before embarking on this, remember to order some new replacement sticky adhesive strips, as these do not come with the replacement battery. I didn’t realise this until I had removed the battery. I just replaced it without and have crossed my fingers!

As to my comment above, I had to order them and fit them to the battery as it was moving around inside!

There is no need to over tape the screen; one strip is enough if wider to make a full cover. My screen was super fragmented and it worked beautifully with just one layer of tape.

I didn’t have packing tape, because my kids apparently found it and used it all up. But I have Scotch tape and a 3M Command hook and that worked.

I would never use a phone in that condition until I replace the screen.

For reassembly, it is important to insert the upper end (the end opposite from the home button) in first, then pop the rest of the display assembly down into place. The upper end has protrusions which go beneath a metal lip. If done in the opposite (wrong) order, the upper end will not allow itself to be pushed down in place and will sit unevenly higher than the other end.

I was replacing my 5s screen due to a cracked screen. I had used packing tape on it to keep the bits from falling apart while I waited for the replacement part, however, the tape limited my ability to use the suction cup for removal. After several tries I was able to get a firm attachment, however, the result was that the glass was being pulled up without the plastic rim. After several failed attempts of using plastic opening tools to wedge between the frame and the phone body, I ended up using an exacto-knife (a Stanley knife) based on another commenters suggestion. I knew I might end up scraping the metal but nothing else was thin enough to work. This approach totally worked for me so that I could get the frame lifted just enough to slide in plastic cards and wedges until I could switch over to the plastic opening tools. Luckily there are only very minor nicks (hardly even visible) on the metal. Thank you to that commenter, otherwise am not sure I could’ve done it.

What adhesive is recommended for a separated display bezel? iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement mentions that adhesive was only used for 2020 iPhone SE, not the 1st Generation. I haven’t found any other resource on replacing the 1st gen bezel adhesive.

I didn’t realize there was a plastic bezel, how do I remove it?

This is the third repair using the iSclack it didn't have enough force to lift the face. I used the flat tool to help separate it. Thanks to those who warned against this tool due to pulling the glass face loose. I didn't think of that.

My screen was too broken and the suction cup would not stick. I too a piece of Gorilla duct-tape and stuck it to itself and then also to the screen so that it made a "Tab" that I could pull up on. This worked much better than the suction cup.

@malcom @paul if you are referring to step 31 the plate needs to be placed as it comes out on the picture. Long flat part towards the top of the casing with the tab facing the right.

In my case, i found it easier to remove the sim - not sure if this was a placebo effect, but there you go!

also, there is a rubber seal around the screen - my experience is it should stay of the display, not on the main body.

i did this now i'm having a hard time putting the metal bracket back on :(

1) Set suction cup off-center & pry up a corner instead of trying to yank open the whole thing. Wrap fingers around the entire phone while pulling so you don't inadvertently pull the display too far off.

2) Use a spudger, credit card, or guitar pick to pry it up once you have enough room to do so - don't pull any more than necessary.

3) There's a thin rubber edge around the entire display that might separate & stick to the bottom section. It should stay with the phone.

4) Reassembly: There are small plastic tabs on the top edge that you need to properly reseat in order to fully close the phone.

We got this to work. Some patience required, but absolutely doable. Our new iFixit suction cup did nothing, but a random one around the house worked fine. Just be patient and work it gently up, this use an opening tool or exacto blade to get into the seem once it comes up. Really quite doable. I'm glad I didn't spend 25 bucks on the fancy tool (a must for repeat use, I'm sure). But don't be deterred by the negatives above. Just go slow.

I.did not read all the comments so I hope this isn’t redundant but my screen was too damaged to provide the air tonight seal that any suction device would need. The ifixit #3 flat head prayed the top out very easily. YMMV but I wouldn’t even try any other method before attempting to push the flat head down between the case and the glass. I thought it might bend the case out just a little causing a slight cosmetic damage but I have a rotective case that covers that anyway so who cares. Incidentally the case protected it from a lot of falls but not from gettin run over by my truck. A Prius once, but not the truck

Oh and if you think this step is hard wait till you get to the screws on the home key or sliding the bracket back over the Touch ID cable connector. That is where the real problems are

I concur with Bryan’s post. The suction cup that was included with the toolkit that came with my battery wouldn’t hold to the screen when I pulled on it (the rubber was pretty soft, and the surface not smooth - not at all like the suction cup shown in the pictures of this guide). Fortunately I have a suction cup with a hook used typically for hanging things on the wall of a shower that held on quite tight that did the job - in fact, I had to use the point of the spudger to get under the edge of the suction cup to get it to release. I also used the zip tie trick someone else posted for making sure the screen didn’t open too far before disconnecting the home button cable, but it wasn’t necessary - I got the screen lifted with enough control that the cable was never in danger.

Suction cup supplied by ifixit worked for me. Of course I used all the tricks mentioned previously: Zip ties, work on one corner at a time, and work slowly - don’t expect it to pop out easily/quickly.

Getting cocky after replacing a display screen and battery in a 6S i-Phone, I decided to open up my own -Phone SE and replace the old battery with a new one. I used one of the flip lever suction cup devices and it worked so well, that the display screen popped open so far that the Home Button Cable was torn off from the Home Button Assembly. I followed the instructions for re-assembly, but the damage was done. Lesson learned…read the Repair Guide before starting a repair!

Suction cup for itself did not work for me. Then, I used a double face tape on it, and it worked nice (don’t try to remove the suction cup until you have fully unplugged the screen though). The suction cup should be used only to make a little gap for the other tools (spudger and that one which is blue). Sorry for the all caps, but ‘PULL THE SCREEN VERY SLOWLY’ (many people here commented there was a failure in this spet even being cautious).

I liked the idea of using an iSclack to pull on both sides at the same time but didn’t want to spend the money for one. Instead, I used the suction cup that attaches my GPS to the windshield of my car, attached it to the front and then attached the small suction cup provided with the tool kit to the back of my iPhone. Pulling both in opposite directions worked perfectly to pull the case open with minimal effort and no surprises.

Instead of a ring handle like in the photo, the suction cup in my repair kit had a blue, plastic L-shaped handle with the vertical leg of the L offset from the center of the cup. Like others I used zip ties and placed the cup to the left of the home button and had the vertical leg of the L oriented toward the bottom of the phone. Patience is the key.

This ⬆︎⬆︎ is excellent advice. I did excactly as Dorothy said. The screen disengaged from the case very easily.

Dorothy/dbrick this sounds pretty “logical to me” - Did you lay down the phone on the hot washcloth backside down - or did you wrap

it around the phone? The idea is to expand the metal case while the glass of the screen does not follow the expansion. Not sure …

Well Well her we are Ifixit saved some money with the suction cup pure junk great job guys! Who had this great idea? give him a big raise! The one in the picture is a much beter one, nice trick! You must have the Isclack tool !

Oh what a pain in the neck this was. The suction cup is a hit or miss thing. But if you press down on it all over (center, edges, and the in between part) then it will stick reasonably firmly about 1 try out of every 5. When I did that, on the "good" tries, I was able to get the screen to move a tiny bit, not enough to put in the spudger. There was enough space for a utility knife blade to stick in, though it was a 2 person, 3 handed operation. I pulled the screen up (a fraction of a millimeter) and got another person to slip the knife into the crack while I was pulling. Then I was able to use the knife to get 1 corner of the screen opened enough to use the spudger the rest of the way. @flannelist gave very helpful encouragement in the Q&A forum. Anyway I still have the rest of the steps to go, so let's hope they are easier.

i am out $600 (and am VERY angry) because what should have been obvious to point out here was not. had i read the comments in this section before proceeding this may not have happened. yes, of COURSE you need to wrap a zip tie around the phone to prevent it from opening too far. prying on the case and pulling hard with the suction cup will undoubtedly result in the cover snapping open and, given the laws of physics (momentum) will cause it to open too far and pull out the connector. i can't be certain that was why my phone did not work after replacing the battery (as it did before starting) but it's a good guess. thanks a lot!

The suction cup worked too well in my case. The display assembly popped right out and a ribbon cable appeared to come completely disconnected from the home button. I proceeded with the rest of the battery replacement and think it all went as it should have, but now my device doesn't indicate that it's receiving a charge when plugged in, and no combination of pushing or holding the home and sleep/wake buttons does anything. My phone was well on its way to brick status, but this one slip-up seemed to secure it.

Zip tie is a brilliant suggestion. Very robust and safe way to pull the phone apart--I had mine wrapped just above the home button and kept the case from opening beyond about 1/8 of an inch.

Used the suction cup and only my screen came up. Looks as though the screen delaminated from its black aluminum mounting tray. The home button stayed with the tray as well. Any ideas?

I got the battery and fitting kit from ifixit. the blue plastic levers that were included were not up to the job as the blade just bent when any pressure was applied. carefully using my own screwdrivers completed the task.

We disagree with the naysayers. Patient use of the suction cup worked for us. The iFixit one didn't do it (it looked a bit deformed out of the box. But a random kids toy worked fine. Nothing fancy. Don't rush. Use an exacto as it starts to come up to slide in to the crevice. After that, works pretty well.

The Jimmy tool worked for me. Managed to slide it in and twist slightly to pop the screen off without too much force.

ifixit's sucktion cup and blue opening tool worked very well for me. I used the suction cup just enough to get the opening tool into a gap and gently pry out the clips. I'm glad that the display didn't give way too easily otherwise I might have damaged a cable. I wish I had read the zip tie comment first though.

ifixit's suction cup and blue opening tool worked well for me. Like the zip tie suggestion as a precaution.

Zip-tie is an excellent idea which I used in 1 repair. Also using a single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

What worked extremely easy for me was I used a utility knife to score on the joint below the home button. The blade went in easy then lightly pried the screen up then followed up the rest of the way with the ifixit opening tool. I’m sure the ifixit Jimmy tool would work as well, instead of the utility knife.

I wish I’d looked at the comments here before I tore the home button cable. I was trying to be careful and not to rip it but it just got away from me. Now I’ve ordered the replacement part…

The glass of my screen went off at first and there was also a black plastic frame that I managed to peel off as well.

At first I didn’t notice that the metal bracket didn’t come off. It was a bit of a struggle to lift the metal bracket.

Wish I’d read through these first.

Used the suction cup but went too far when the display finally popped loose pulling the home button cable off the main board. Hope it was only the cable that was damaged - will try a replacement home button.

Limiting the display’s travel with tape or a zip tie is an excellent idea !!!

We used the little suction cup the Ifixit supplies in the repair kit, NOT the iSclack. It took many attempts, patience, and two people working together, but ultimately we succeeded. Here are a few tips: soak the suction cup in very hot (just boiled) water for 5-10 minutes to get it really warm and pliable. As one person holds the phone and pulls up on the suction cup, the other should work the blue opening tool at the first sign of the display assembly starting to lift from the phone. Many times the suction cup would pop off but we kept heating the cup, resticking, and working it until we finally opened it. We used the cable tie suggestion above as well to be sure the phone would not open too far and this saved us when it finally popped free. Remember to work the clips on the side as well once you have a gap. Honestly, this took the most patience of all 62 steps! (Yes, there are 62 steps…only 54 more to go!)

I could not exert enough force using the suction cup that came with iFixit battery replacement kit

to pull the bottom of the screen away from the case. However, an X-acto knife inserted between the

screen and the bottom edge of the case near the left corner allowed me to lift the screen sufficie

ntly to insert a stiffer blade (a tiny screwdriver). Lifting further with the stiffer blade I was

able to complete the separation by sliding the edge of a credit card along the bottom and sides of

the screen. A plectrum would have worked as well. Using a knife blade eliminates the risk of dama

ging the home-button cable.

They really should include tips like a zip tie to prevent over opening and tearing the home button cable. Now I need to replace my home button.

This step definitely scared me the most after reading all the comments, but with a helper this proved fairly simply. Using two suction cups I pried the case apart from the corner (not directly above the home button), just enough to barely fit the plastic opening tool into the notch. Unless you have 3 hands. Once in, you can release the tension from the suction cups, and simply pry the case open with the tool, to a satisfying pop.

I used the zip tie trick, which is a clever idea. I don’t think it was necessary, but I would probably use this precaution again.

Patience is the key. At first I tried holding the phone in my hand and pulling on the suction cup. I finally put the phone on the table (like the instructions say…..duh) held the base in one hand while pulling on the suction cup with the other. I was getting movement but not enough to use the prying tool. After a bit of this I ran a razor blade along the bottom of the phone between the screen and the bottom casing. This broke whatever seal had built up between the two and the screen soon came off enough to use the prying tool.

In another guide there was a reference to the screen being pulled away from its frame? This was happening to me, so used very small amounts of superglue between screen and frome, applied using a cocktail stick. Left it for 24 hours. Worked fine.

I would echo most of these comments. I tried to be very careful, but still managed to pop up the display (it was very tight indeed), severing not only the home button but, as I later discovered, a cable at the other end of the phone.

Really, get the proper tool.

razor blade: 1 min

suction cup and other nonsense: 20 mins with zero progress

I used the iFixit kit (2019) with suction  cup. It worked perfectly fine. Absolutely imperative—USE A ZIPTIE (or one of the other suggestions such as box tape). It’s cumbersome to handle the phone and you might become preoccupied with positioning your hands that you apply an unmeasured amount of force.

I wasn’t sure what to expect. Suction cup in place, plastic opening tool on the edge. As I adjusted hand position and applied force, BAM! the screen just popped up, and was saved by a ziptie.

I had no problem using suction cup - put zip tie around phone just in case, but by slowly using plastic pry tool and pulling gently on suction cup from lower left side of phone, it separated quite easily. Keep prying around edges slowly so that you don’t get a big release.

I pulled to dar when I did it, but got lucky and it only disconnected the cable right where i would have anyway. Everything seems to work fine but maybe there's damage and I dont know it. Anything to check?

I read about the zip tie precaution but as I didn’t have any in the house i just went on using the suction cup without any protection.. and in fact the phone snapped open at one point and the home button cable bracket flew away, as the cable separated from the socket… I imagined the worst happened but as the cable was still intact I wanted to check if for a miracle there wasn’t any damage, so I reconnected the home button to its socket and turned on the phone (still with the case open)… and I must had just consumed all my yearly luck subscription because everything worked fine including Touch ID!! So if you experience a situation similar to mine where the home button cable is still intact, give it a shot reconnecting and testing it before you order a replacement!

This guide is flawed on this important point.

I don’t see the point of posting a guide that doesn’t work.

Other than the fact that i bought a fix it kit…

It’s rattled my confidence in ifixit guides………….

I’m not sure why you completely fail to mention the tool slot in the bottom left corner of the display? There’s a little slot here so once you get the screen open a little you can get a tool in and prise it open the rest of the way. I’m also not sure how people are destroying the touch ID cable here, it’s sensitive electronic equipment, so care and a bit of common sense is obviously required here. You have about 3cm leeway anyway, which I found was more than adequate. The display may stick a little at first, with years of accumulated dirt in my case, but with a bit of patience and gradually working away at it, it will release. Don’t be nervous and think you need an expensive tool like the iSclack, you really don’t. Just be really careful and don’t rush things.

If you’re using the suction handle instead of the iSclack, I’d recomment tying a band around the bottom end of the iPhone to create a physical stop to prevent the front pulling away too far. Maybe something like a couple of tough rubber bands or a shoelace wrapped around two or three times with enough give to allow you to pull up the front, but to stop the it flying open if you pulled just a little too hard.

I think a band of some kind like that should be included in the kit, it would be an inexpensive solution that allows people to use the cheaper suction handle but still safeguard the touch ID cable.

The suction cup of my Pro Tech Toolkit neither worked on tape nor screen, so I took the blade of my titanium scissors, pressed it against the side of the screen and lifted it while trying to find my third hand to put a spudger into the opening gap. This worked well in the end, but be careful.

This step should also include hints about putting the new screen into its place. I was happy to press mine gently into the frame from edge to edge, feeling it bend but not break.

Suction cup does not work at all. I feel cheated. I will be taking the screen to a repair shop.

This operation went fine in my case, but I was concerned with what seemed like a lot of necessary force to get the supplied suction cup to adhere to the screen - I didn’t want to crack the glass. After a few unsuccessful tries, I did finally moisten the suction cup and it stuck solidly. I was also surprised that some careful prying was needed to get the screen to release.

I ripped the cable. Now I need a new phone. aghhh

I found that when replacing the plate/cover, a pair of needle nosed tweezers held the plate by the 2 holes rather than by the edges (it jumped out repeatedly). I have taken a picture but need to upload it if its required? I also found that taking the new battery out of it's wrapper once out the box has to be done very carefully as the ribbon cable caught on the wrapper so be warned...

When I lifted my screen during this step, the metal LCD shield plate did not come out with the screen. Very confusing. I needed to carefully pry around the shield plate's side notches, just inside the walls of the iPhone's back, in order to lift it out. Required a trifle bit more force than I anticipated.

I’m already limited to using a touch screen home button. (physical home button stopped responding but fingerprint works) Would this take away that functionality of my on screen home button? does this affect the fingerprint security feature?

’

There’s an easy solution to this step: use hemostats (miniature vice grip). Took me about 10 seconds (after over an hour using various other tools).

Attention in this part!! I had to put more pressure than I should, then the bracket flew away and the cable also unplugged all together (probably placed the spudger beneath the cable instead of only beneath the bracket). I was lucky nothing bad happened, but I lost total control in this step (it was my only mistake).

Just wedge the sharp end of the forceps between the bracket and the plug and push until the bracket pops open. That way there is no danger of tearing out the entire socket.

One way to easily access the bracket (for removal and for insertion) is to rotate the display around the cable connection horizontally, so that the screen is not above the bracket but rather to the side.

When disassembling, note that the screen assembly is hinged to the bottom on the edge away from the home button. After first opening the screen to about 30 degrees as above, slide the screen in the direction where the home button was to disengage this hinge (this is the first bullet item in step 13 below). Then rotate to expose the bracket to eyes and tweezers.

This metal bracket snaps over the plug, and there appears to be a snap detent on the front of the bracket (side facing the charging port). The first photo for this step show the spudger on the side closest to the battery (above the holes in the bracket). I would recommend pulling up on the side closest to the charging port. Also, as others mentioned, when this releases it will go flying - mine did too.

Take note of how it’s oriented before you pop it loose - it only goes on one way (can’t be rotated 180 degrees)

When re-installing the bracket later, I inserted the side closet to the battery first (like the 2nd photo in Step 10 below), then rotated it down (pressing it down). It snaps back in place

STEPS 9-12 need a re-working - Re-assembly instructions should be put just under the disassembly instructions so that when you scroll back up the page, you’re re-assembling in step order ;)

I lifted up the screen really slowly and kept the cable fully slack, but it was in two halves! The bit that folds back is seperate, have I wrecked Touch ID?

Help. Is there some trick to getting the home button reconnected? I gave up on reattaching the bracket, but the home button doesn’t work at all because the connection isn’t seated right. This is a problem as you can imagine. This was in the course of a battery replacement. Any tips greatly appreciated.

My phone did not have this bracket. Our other SE did.

Like the first comment, it sprung open and the cable detached from the button. What can I do? How to I re-attach or get a new button with a new cable?

The bracket is magnetic. I found it with a pair of large flat magnets from 1980s speaker woofers, but hard drive magnets should work too. It bounced off my lap to a meter away. I should have read comments FIRST.

Okay, I'm confused. I just read on this site that all iphones post 6 you can use a different cable. Now mind you I have a 1st gen iphone SE, but this is the site that fixes for my phone are sent to... so am I screwed, or not? I have the original home button, so is there anyway to attach the cable off the replacement (OEM) top piece to my own home button? Thanks

It is fiddly and access is tight as all the connectors are in place. However, if you approach at the correct angle so that you are looking to latch the connector next to the battery first... Once this is in place and secure then gently push down the front of the bracket over the cable.

On an old 5S, the metal retainer bracket snapped in easily. There was no sliding, the rear edge dropped in straight, it hinged down, and locked almost before I knew it. The lack of a click or any positive feel on this critical connector surprised me a lot. I had to eyeball it with a magnifier to feel sure the ribbon connector was really in its socket. Works perfectly after the replacement, though.

All this time I was trying to put the bracket right next to the battery but that's not right. There's no way the bumps on the metal connector can fit in the slots on the bracket. It's battery, metal connector and then the bracket. So easy. Next time I dismantle an iPhone 5S I won't be dreading this step.

I should NOT have had that cup of coffee before I attempted this!

This was definitely the fiddliest bit of the whole reassembly.

After trying the slide in and then press method many times without success I ended up feeding it in directly with the tweezers, carefully angling it back up into position, then clipping it down. But the whole thing took at least 5 minutes. And my shaky hands didn’t help matters!

I was sweting gallons during this step!

And for this step felt like a life long career of tiddly winks had commenced

It is confusing in reassembly, that the steps 10 and 11 are in the ascending order, because we follow the guide backwards (I suggest explaining the correct sequence: …, 12, 10, 11, and ??. ?? —> This is another point of confusion, the next step is to fit the screen back in, but because there are many (alternative) steps to open the phone, all the useful comments about closing it are spread among topics 3 to 9. There should have been a box (step) exclusively to the part of fitting the screen , so the explanation is more clear and comments are put all together. There are extremely useful comments here that should be edited in the guide (to make it even better).

I am having trouble connecting the home button connector to the phone cpu? Not sure why it's not staying connected but was wondering it there was any advice. I've tried for about 20 minutes just trying to line it up and press it down but no luck…

3 times I’ve had to repair my 5S & this was the most frustrating part each time. This time I cheated & just placed the cover back on top of the cable & closed the phone up. No clicking or sliding or fumbling with it. Look at it from the left side & it’s a bit easier to see where it winds up, but I didn’t fuss with it. Phone works fine now anyway.

Reinstallation.

I struggled for a short time to get the bracket back into place. The bracket has a rectangular footprint. One edge has 1-clip and the other edge has 2-clips. I thought the 1-clip side was a ‘hook’. Haha. NOT! After taking a closer look, I could see the shape and understood how the piece should fit. It SNAPS into place.

anyone else have any issues with the home button? i did everything according to the directions, but now the home button/fingerprint id is not working. Help!

Reseating the Touch ID cable connector is definitely the trickiest part.

Press fit for the connector back into the female connector side doesn’t snap in as it does on the other connectors.

It took me 3 tries before the Home button would acknowledge the Touch ID. Make sure the connector is fully engaged by gently pushing the connector sidewise with the sprudger after you have seated the connector to make sure it is fully engaged. Gently though until it is clear there is resistance and it does not move.

This step is incredibly difficult. I finally got the sensor snapped into place (gently), but could not get the clip in. Worst part was I placed the battery too close to the sensor chassis. So I think this is why I could not “slide” the clip into place. In the end, I left the clip off and put the phone back together. Everything works as before.

STEPS 9-12 need a re-working - Re-assembly instructions should be put just under the disassembly instructions so that when you scroll back up the page, you’re re-assembling in step order ;)

I gave up also. Pressed down too hard and bent the part it clips onto. Just put a blob hot glue or Blu-tak in place. No problem. Works fine. Stupid design.

Wish I’d read the comments before attempting this step. I spent five minutes unsuccessfully trying to use the tweezers to slide the bracket onto the connector from left to right as described, then in frustration I squeezed too hard and the clip pinged out of the tweezers and vanished. Ten minutes searching the room and it was nowhere to be found. I’ll probably find it while tidying up in five years’ time and wonder what it is. I finished reassembling the phone without it and everything is working fine so far. Perhaps the home button connector is more likely to come loose if I drop the phone, but if it does at least I know how to pop it open and reconnect it.

I checked this on YouTube when re-assembling. The small tongue should be at the front and you should slide the clip to the right as far as it will go before pressing the bracket into place.

This is hands down the hardest part.

Worst thing is, that bracket lands always on the wrong side, when its dropped on the table to be picked up with tweezers, what are the odds?

Joking aside, I ended up doing it slightly differently as in the instruction. I was not able to slide the bracket in from the side. It always slipped from the tweezers and was a pain.

In the end, I took a different approach:

Put the bracket on top of the connector, but too far towards the charging port (bottom of the phone); it will be angled towards the charging port, since the rear lip of the bracket still sits on top of the connector

Then, align it above the connector (left/right) place a finger on it and push it towards the battery

The lip will slide between the connector and the back fence, the front hook will also slide in place

Finish it by pressing it down with the flat side of the spudger.

I ripped this cable by accident. Definitely the hardest part

Oh bracket, what bracket? I just realized that I have indeed lost the bracket and just snapped the connector into the phone and screwed it shut. The 2010 battery swelled so much that is pushed the whole screen open so if I get a year out of it then great - just for the kids to mess about with. The Touch ID stopped working long ago but I'll know what to look for when the home button stops working. But 13 year old battery - wow and it just died here in 2023, but phone was not really used for past 6 years or so but I swear it powers up a year ago.

The little clip is an utter “#*+}{ to refit. I gave up and put a drop of hot glue on or you could use blue tack. Makes no difference. Phone works fine.

I gave up assembling this little bracket and left it out. phone’s been working fine for past 10 minutes. I wonder if this will be a problem later though.

As has been well noted, reassembly of this clip is not self-evident. The clip itself is not a symmetrical piece; rather, it has a small tab on one side. What is its purpose and what is the correct alignment of the tab as it’s placed over the connector? Moreover, the available iFixit tools are not adequate to align and place into correct position, especially considering the restricted space (and light) to work in. After studying the problem, I decided to use a piece of rope caulk (used for weatherstripping) with its sticky texture to hold the clip in correct alignment before pressing it into final position.

As put so eloquently by many wise ones before me, that bracket is a %^#* to get back in. My approach was to put the needlenose tweezer tips through the two holes in the top, and push gently in the direction of the top of the phone as I applied downward pressure. With luck, I had it lined up JUST right on my 947th try, and it snapped right into place. Yikes.

Got a message saying Touch ID couldn’t be activated. Reseated and back to normal.

Instead of just lifting the screen to reassemble the clip you can turn the screen sideways so that it’s no longer covered.

The clip is not symmetrical! The side with one snap goes towards the speakers. CAREFULLY use the tweezers to gently set the clip down with the correct orientation. Then use the spudger to press it into place. (Sometimes one side, then the other side.)

Take your time.

Reassembly: It’s very often that you get the cable to snap to the connector on the board, but find that the device doesn't work properly. In most cases, re-seating the cable fixes the problem. S

Sometimes, it's a bent pin on the connector, and then you have a problem… While I have been able to fix desktop CPU socket pins, I have never tried to fix a busted surfaces mount connector like these. I don't know if that's possible.

STEPS 9-12 need a re-working - Re-assembly instructions should be put just under the disassembly instructions so that when you scroll back up the page, you’re re-assembling in step order ;)

The socket is on its own glued-down cable that can be pried up if you aren't careful.

There is a mistake into the sentence …is on its own A glued-down cable…

itself is even better

kind regards

put a piece of tape over the edge so you don’t rip the cable out like I did. I replaced the battery a few years ago and the screen came out muck easier. this time I broke the cable. Good-bye touch ID and iPhone 5S now I can only unlock the screen with a full reboot and home button is gone. to the trash can it goes! had it many years.

No need to remove the screen or any cable except that which is directly connected to the home button!!! just prop it open the phone with screen facing up, an angle of about 45 to 60 degrees will give enough working space to remove and replace the home button.

The trickiest part is connecting the home button cable and getting its retaining clip in place.

We found the opening was not exactly easy to 90°, finally it did open completely. Be careful on the last degrees, the cables may pull little bit on the metal piece you are about to unmount in the next step. No worries, all worked fine. Just - be gentle with the cables when opening.

I was unable to remove one of the screws, but removing one and then just pivoting the battery connector bracket worked just fine.

I think the little tabs at the top of my front panel assembly broke at this step. I found two little pieces of plastic inside the phone later on, and now, with everything finished and put back together, the top of the screen is a little loose: it’s seated 1-2mm too high and moves in when I press it.

Maybe I should have pulled the top of the assembly out of the rear case, before hinging it up?

Kleine opmerking: correct Nederlands voor “blikje drinken” is “drankblikje”.

I took a spudger and proped up the screen with that. Works great!

Now my problem, however, is that the screws on this bracket do not seem to want to unscrew. :(

Okay, the problem would seem to have been with the screwdriver that came with my iFixit battery "Fix kit". Tried another screwdriver, and no problems at all.

The screwdriver that came with the kit worked fine for me when I applied pressure with my palm to the end of the driver and turned the driver with my forefinger and thumb

The ifixit #000 works…if you put an uncomfortable amount of pressure on the driver. Yikes. Use a larger bit if you’ve got it.

i damaged the bottom screw with the phillips00 ifixit screwdriver :-(

It’d be nice if the iFixit people could address this problem with the PH000 driver. I am afraid of stripping the screw head because the PH000 I was sent doesn’t come close to catching in the screw head.

If you are having an issue with the PH#000 bit included with your iFixit Fix Kit then you can contact our customer support team at support@ifixit.com.

The two screws are not exactly same size. (But very similar)

If you switch them you’ll have issues with Bluetooth. I’m sorry but I don’t remember where is going the longer screw.

With my phone I needed to use a PH0000 screwdriver. The provided PH000 (and my own from another screwdriver set) was too large. Indeed, every Phillips head screw in my phone needed the PH0000 and not the PH000 driver.

The video does not show this step, they go directly to the screen disassembly. Being that I was following the video, I did not disconnect the battery, and now it does not boot. :-( Thanks iFixit video .

My screws seemed stripped, and when I went back to tighten it the scfrews got stuck, eventually one broke in the scoket. So I can’t screw down this protector. What does it do? Can I just get rid of it? Tap it down? Ideally Id have some eletrical tape and tape it down. But I don’t, and I just wanna toss it. AFraid it is important, or protects a circuit by conducting electricity

I pretty consistently get the message, “unable to activate touch id on this iphone” if I connect the battery before connecting the group of cables in the upper right corner. It seems that if those are reattached while the battery is plugged in I see the touch ID error. Connecting the battery after connecting the upper-right corner group of cables has consistently helped. YMMV of course.

I don´t even have the logic board (if thats the silvery thing that the screws are keeping in place). Is the phone going to work without it?

I don’t understand you folks having problems with the #000 bit? I removed the screws without even thinking about it. My problem is the little antenna connector getting disconnected when I lifted the bracket plate! I mentioned it in Step 15

After installing the New iPhone 5s Lightning Connector Replacement I noticed there was no foam on top of the new plug, leaving bare metal exposed. I cut a small piece of electricians tape to be placed on top of the new plug to keep it from coming in contact with the metal battery connector bracket

Battery connector bracket lifts out easily with fingernail (non-conductive, no sparks). Top screw (closer to hinge) is shorter. I taped both to a labelled piece of paper with Magic Plus 811 removable transparent tape.

I can’t believe nobody has mentioned that the little antenna connector (visible here just to the right of the metal battery connector’s female screw socket, covered with a tiny piece of foam) might be stuck to the metal bracket, and come loose when you remove said bracket. It’s a challenge to get the foam off of it (for visibility), and reconnect! I have no suggestions to make it easier except to be patient! You’ll get it, but my SE almost got tossed across the room trying! ;-)

A way to skip step 17-22

I unfolded as next step the display in a perpendicular way (so display unit and rest of the device in 90°) and fixed the display with an elastic band at an opened iPhone packaging box. Then I continued directly at step 23 with the removal of the battery without removing the display unit at all. Worked very well without any problems… and now I’m curious whether the new battery really powers the device for a longer time :-)

I also skipped the step of removing the dispaly, instead using a rubber band to secure the display to the iPhone box. Worked great, and avoided the hassle of disconnecting the display.

I skipped this step and I also removed my display. I don’t know what will happen in the future but there’s no problems till now...

I didn’t realize that each of the photos contained different steps until later on, (the photos look very similar to each other in the thumbnails), and so I don’t think I removed the 2nd part of the battery attachment as its in the 2nd photo. I figured it out later, but only after step 20, which requires that the battery is fully disconnected before doing. Oops!

Everything else went well though, and I’ve since reinstalled the battery, drained it, and recharged, and it seems to be fine. Will cross my fingers and hope I didn’t damage anything.

If you do remove the display, it is helpful before removing the four diffferently sized screws to tape down a piece of masking tape, sticky side up, and remove them in a defined order, sticking them to the tape as you go. Then there’s no chance of mixing them up when you re-assemble.

I followed the directions of pulling the tabs and I just went super slow and continued to move my placement down lower and closer to the base of the battery and wow came out so clean nothing to even scrape off. I did an iPhone 5 but it didn't have this adhesive. The battery was barely stuck inside so I got lucky being that the battery was swollen. Apple actually gave me a new iPhone 5 when my phones battery was swollen during the Apple 5 bad battery replacement.

it seems very strange this step’s instruction does not mention the 4 microscopic components on the motherboard next to the socket on the opposite side to the battery. If you put your plastic pry tool all the way into the gap between the connector and the metal shield you are going to pop them off the board and they are so small you won’t ever notice this or feel it. There are plenty of posts on the internet asking “why did my 5s stop charging after I successfully repaired the screen” and this is a really common reason. Put your pry tool in the minimum amount to just catch the metal plate on the top of the connector to avoid this.

I too must agree with James about inserting the pry tool. If you insert it at that angle, you run the very high chance of poping off components that are located between that gap. Those components aren’t just ‘nearby’, they’re IN that gap! There’re several YouTube vids about the replacement of those components and it is not for the faint of heart. One is a coil (you ‘can’ place a jumper across) and the other is either a resister or a capacitor and those must be replaced.

These 3 capacitors and especially one ferrite bead are real problem. Screwed 2 phones up, one totally dead the other one managed to get battery online again.

Pry battery connector open either with tweezers from flex cable side or from the side of long connector (speaker, lightining port connector).

Step 16 on photos is 50/50% success.

I actually find that using your fingernail works brilliantly. just place your nail under the connector where you will feel a slight lip. this lets you know that you have just the connector and nothing else. then just pull up slightly and the connector pops off. Worked a treat for me first time and this is my 3rd SE i have opened now.

I’ve destroyed components on logic board during this step as my pry tool tocuhed the board when prying. Now the phone won’t charge. Be extra careful.

Actually the pictures seem to be the same as iPhone 5S and not the SE although there are certainly differences. Specially on the battery connector.

iFixit should add another note that warns the users of the delicate components next to the battery connector. They can easily pop and cause battery charging problems.

You guys need to put a warning here for those micro components in front of the connector. I hit one and now my phone restarts randomly.

These Demo Pics really ought to be Directly Above the device/area of focus…

Considering the perspective of pic(s), it is entirely probable for user to uncouple, seemingly similar, Lightning connector cable directly next to Battery Connector. Just to be safe, without incurring any additional risk or time to your BATTERY Repair:

DISCONNECT BOTH CONNECTORS, IMMEDIATELY AFTER REMOVING METAL BATTERY CONNECTOR BRACKET (in previous step, #15).

The Red Text Warning in this step is a bit confusing, but it’s definitely not referring to the ++Lightning connector cable++ (directly next to Battery Connector). And if you mistakenly uncouple one and not the [batt connector] other, like I did, You’ll Most Certainly Corrupt the (FL2400) Ferrite Bead Filter, While Attempting to Gently Pry heated (old) Battery From It’s Seat; Rendering your device’s charging capabilities Null.

re: Is this what a damaged FL11 looks like on a iPhone SE?

For reassembly, I had trouble getting the battery connector re-seated, because it had pulled out with the bracket, and I didn’t see its original placement. There a two (or three?) small gold dots just above (toward the top of the phone) where the top edge fits — so make sure those dots are visible when you’re trying to place the connector. Also, it fits a bit to the right edge of the phone (away from the battery), compared with the piece above it.

iPhone SE:

Your guide shows exactly the WRONG way to pry off the battery connector. NEVER pry along the right edge of the connector, and NEVER attack the connector from a high angle. This deadly combo is almost guaranteed to break components.

Pry the connector at the narrow edge furthest from the home button where there is nothing to damage, and use a shallow angle of attack so the pry force is mostly upwards.

We have just fallen foul of this too. The photo showing the prising off of the battery connector is, as the previous comment says, completely wrong and will result in damaging the tiny components just in front of the connector which is exactly what happened to us. Wish we’d read these comments but we assumed the photos and description were correct…..%#*@ !

Alles funktioniert bis auf das Aufladen. Statusanzeige: "5% geladen". Beim Betrieb ab Ladekabel startet das iPhone nach 1 Minute neu. Hätte ich eure Kommentare vorher gelesen, hätte ich es vermutlich nicht vermurkst!

i did the battery replacement and now my gyro isnt working. I did not know the screws had different lengths. Think it will be ok if i take apart and put correctly or do i need a new logic board??

The two 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screws should be placed on top and the 1.2 & 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw at the bottom.

If you do not respect that order, the Bluetooth calls feature will not work anymore.

Please change all the versions including this step.

The screw 1.7mm screw (highlighted green) was magnetic on the phone I repaired, while the standoff near it in step #27 was not (*see my note in #27). Either I have different parts or the magnetism note was swapped. If anyone else can confirm or deny this it’d help the guide. Thanks.

Invest in several colored Sharpie pens. When you see a red circle on the guide, tap that screw head with a red sharpie, orange, green, blue and so forth. This makes it almost fool-proof to not mix up your screws when re-assembling the phone or any other piece of equipment.

I cannot unscrew the Philips #000 screws in this step using iFixit's Philips #000 screwdriver. The screw does not even turn at all. I wonder about the screwdriver iFixit is using in the video - https://youtu.be/k_OpjhKAUCM?t=180 . Can we buy it ?

If you keep the top steady these steps (17-22) could be skipped. That's how I did. Everything is ok.except screwdriver didn't undo upper one of the battery bracket I had to bend the bracket.

If I messed up the screw placement, can it be redone and fixed by putting the screws back in prober order?

Like James Lee (above), I found reinserting the tiny screws quite difficult because the magnetic screwdriver would pull them out, with the screw adhering to the screwdriver at odd angles. What worked was to insert a screw with tweezers, then START the screw using the non-magnetic plastic pointy tool while holding down the plate so the screw could turn easily. Once the screw was started, I tightened it with the screwdriver.

Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!..

The iFixit Kit I bought does NOT have the right screw driver to remove these screws. Neither phillips screwdrivers work - the point is much too sharp and does not grip the screw at all. Not happy with this purchase right now.

I found out that you don’t need the 1.7mm screw. The shorter one will do and I don’t lose bluetooth.

I used colored sharpies to keep track of the screws. I color coded the screw heads and around their holes. Worked like a charm.

I managed to loose the socket of the green screw. Apparently, during my second disassembly of my iPhone the socket (which appears to be screwed in as well) came loose without me noticiing it and promptly vanished later on in the process, never to be seen again. The iPhone does seem to work without it, but still, I’d advise checking that they are still in place when you unmount the metal shield.

Erroneamente ho sbagliato la combinazione delle viti e mi si è danneggiata l’iPhone.. che parte devo cambiare ?

You do not actually have to remove the screen to replace the battery. Just tilt up the screen at a 60 degree angle from the phone and tape it open or have someone hold it up. That way you don’t have to flex the screen wires or inadvertently damage anything.

I also completed this repair successfully without removing the screen. I kept the screen at a 90 degree angle using the iPhone’s box and a rubber band as pictured in Step 13. I was nervous about bumping it while doing the rest of the steps and stretching the display cables too much, but it worked.

If anyone is still using the dino-aged iphone 5s like me ;) , please follow the steps rather than the video patiently before putting it into action. The screw placement is extremely crucial during reassemble. I messed the screws up the first time and had problems with touch screen, it wasn’t working. Then I disassembled again. I was lucky to have sufficient eyesight to figure out the 1.7 mm screws - both magnetic and non-magnetic ones. In case of of lower left screw, I put the one I felt (!) the bigger one, and at the end, left the lower right hole unscrewed. It’s working fine now.

I removed the screws and placed them on a white piece of paper in the orientation they belonged in and then removed the bracket covering the cables (step 18). At this point, looking at the 3 cables I needed to remove I thought one of these likely won’t go back on correctly and will be disabled. I had the screen securely at 90 degrees to the base using a juice glass and rubber band so I decided to put the bracket back on and skip to step 23. I wish I had thought of that before removing the screws as these are some tiny screws. It was difficult to see which end was the screw head and get it placed on the screwdriver for inserting into the hole. For the green (nonmagnetized) screw I used the tweezers to get it in the hole and then screwed it in.

One doesn’t actually HAVE to remove the display. But it does make the removal of the battery easier, at it is very well glued to the back case.

I didn’t set the screws aside so I had to measure which is super hard but here’s a link to an online free ruler and it has a command icon for you to input show me 1.7mm and then you can match up screw lengths. The website is https://www.ginifab.com/feeds/cm_to_inch...

i hope this helps for anyone who removed the panel without reading the important steps first and i’m female lol.

Heather

As mentioned, the screws are difficult to re-install. I found that sitting the screw on its head on the table and pressing down with my finger the screw will be set on your finger, head up. Then carefully put Philips driver into screw slot. It should come away and easily inserted into bracket.

WRONG !!!

The ONLY 1,7mm it's at the top left corner. All OTHERS are 1.3 mm. The 1.7mm it tue other screw under this part.

I broke my phone because of this.

is it necessary to put back this plate after reattached screen , cuz i didn’t , for futures swaps

With my phone I needed to use a PH0000 screwdriver. The provided PH000 (and my own from another screwdriver set) was too large. Indeed, every Phillips head screw in my phone needed the PH0000 and not the PH000 driver.

Don’t do it. Don’t do this step. With some gentle care you can get the battery replaced without ever removing the four tiny screws from !&&*.

Auf die Schritte 17 - 22 habe ich ebenfalls verzichtet.

Den Akku konnte ich mit hochgeklappten Display entfernen.

Die Klebestreifen sind zwar gerissen, aber mit Fön und sanfter Gewalt hat es funktioniert.

Der neue Akku hat laut iMazing sogar 1736 mAh :-)

I would agree with Bryce Nesbitt. DO NOT do these steps if all you’re going to do is replace the battery. Having disconnected and reconnected all this stuff, which absolutely was not needed to get the battery out, my touchscreen is no longer working and there’s a weird grid pattern all over the screen, which suggests to me that at least one of the connectors isn’t seated properly, so I’m going to have to do this all over again.

Let me reiterate: DO NOT DO THIS IF ALL YOU WANT IS TO REPLACE THE BATTERY. Skip straight to step 23 where you start work to remove the battery adhesive tab and strips.

I’m sure someone can correct me, but this is my experience. The 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw in the top right might be demagnetised for a reason. When I tried a magnetised screw in that position I found that I got a distinct yellowish tinge on my screen in the same place. So I removed the screw (couldn’t find the original as it disappeared off the face of the earth!), and re-assembled the phone without it.

Don’t have any problems as far as I see having only 3 screws holding the bracket down…

I had the 4 screws all neat and separated, then accidentally got a super-strong rare earth magnet too close to them, and they were all mixed up. To determine the difference between the 1.3 and 1.2, I pulled out calipers. I found both of mine to be 1.1 mm, so they weren’t different lengths. Also, all 4 of mine were attracted to the magnet.

Eek. I didn’t have access to this guide when taking my phone apart. I mostly access the internet on my phone as my laptop is super slow. I watched the YouTube video on my smart TV while doing the repair. So I didn’t know the screws were different sizes, they all looked pretty teeny tiny to me. Makes sense now that the top left one is longer, I got a bit frustrated trying to get that one in, and ended up putting it in last so the others would hold the plate in position. I do remember one didn’t stick to the screwdriver, and I actually dropped this one into the iPhone and then on the mottled carpet when I shook it out, but found it after a long search. Then I just put the screws in however they came to me. I hope they ended up okay. I already did it twice because the screen had lines on when I finished, and I also managed to inadvertently disconnect the on/off button and not reconnect properly. Need to make them click.

PS I’m not sure you sufficiently stressed the importance of the screw order in the video.

Good to know about the screw lengths. This section could have a larger font warning to carefully store the the screws in the right orientation, in separate compartments. I didn’t notice the notes on screw size until after I put all 4 screws in one compartment. I had to line up the screws (upside down) and eyeball which appeared to be which lengths using a magnifying lens. It took a few minutes but I figured it out due to their relative sizes.

Suggest using a Sharpie to color-code screws before removal. Color screw heads (matching Step 17 if you like) and add a color circle around each screw head.

In one of four iPhone SE ‘s on which I’ve done screen replacements, there was a rubber gasket left behind when I unplugged this cable. I was unable to seat the connector properly until I removed the gasket.

Just adding in case you encounter this.

Das Abbauen des Displays ist Schwachsinn da sich der Akku leicht auch tauschen lässt wenn das Display aufgeklappt mit einem Gummi

an einer Getränkedose befestigt ist !

Important note: There are four connectors here but only three need removing. If you remove the one on the lower left just above the screw you’ll never get it back in. It connects to the motherboard, no the screen.

During reassembly, I found reattaching the front facing camera sensor cable to be the most difficult. I would recommend bending the cables to closely match those from the screen that your replacing. I know that sounds kindof funky , but I had difficulty lining it up.

Thanks for the gasket tip. I thought I was just crazy! Then pulled that gasket, and presto, it seated right away!

No doubt about that.

What can I do

i tried to remove the LCD CABLE WITH A METAL SCISSOR.

NOW IT IS NOT WORKING.

HOW TO REPLACE IT. CAN ANYONE HELP IN THAT

At the bottom and top are some hardly noticeable white stripes and an after reconnecting the cables 3 times with no difference I connected the old screen again. There were no stripes there… The cables on the new screen don’t look damaged. I’ve repaired other phone screens and I think my display has an issue… what should I do now?

What’s the problem with my phone? It shows the Apple Logo but it shows a black screen after. What happened?

Touch screen not working after replacing home button?

I have verticals red lines on my newly replaced screen….why?

Battery successfully replaced but screen had vertical lines. Re-seated LCD connector which fixed the lines problem. Got VERY FRUSTRATED trying to “slide” the Touch ID bracket over the cable connector, which I never managed to do. At some point, the screen stopped “working” and is now solid black. Re-seating the LCD connector didn’t help. How can I tell if I accidentally broke something along the way? Can I use a multimeter to find out?

I did not watch the Video replacing the 5s battery , but i did follow the directions given. I missed one important detail prior to removing the battery. I did not see the loop at the end of the battery so I ran the pointed end of the spudger along the battery. It took a long time to remove the battery using heat and bending the battery until I could get the adhesive strips off. The directions were a real asset and next time I will watch the video. Thanks! Your staff are the bests.

Beware, it is easy to ruin the sockets on the SE motherboard, far easier than the 5s. Be extra careful pulling these cables.

It should be noted somewhere around these steps that all but one of these connections get removed.

The connection that is left goes to the Power Button, the Mute Switch, and the Volume Buttons. This connection is on the bottom left, below the LCD power connection.

This connector was not supposed to be removed, and I removed all of them as a force of habit.

Once removed, it seems I removed part of the other half of the connector along with the first half.

This has left my customer's iPhone functional, but none of the buttons, besides Home Button/TouchID), work.

In the long run, this is not a huge issue, as AssistiveTouch can emulate physical button presses. I just figured it should be noted.

After completing the battery replacement, when I turned the phone back on everything worked right except, the rear facing camera. It just shows a black screen. Does anyone know how I can fix this???

I accidentally unplugged the power cable and although the digitizer cable is difficult to get plugged in, the power plug is a you know what!

Reattaching the digitalizer connector is a ##&&% if you ty to keep the innards 90 degrees to the case using a rubber band and a box/can. Hold the innards in your hand to line up this connector. Once that is done the other two connections can be done with stabilized innards banded to a box/can.

After replacing the battery on my iPhone SE (2016), the flash on the camera, the flashlight and the vibrate mode did not work. When I took it apart, this button assembly cable was not tight down. iPhone 5s Upper Component Cable Replacement. STEP #25. It is also the connection right below the spudger in the picture. The smaller on close to the battery.

Pushing it tight down and reassembly fixed all problems.

After replacing the battery the touch screen doesn't work?? How do I fix this?

I’m completely confused about removing the connectors to the screen. It looks to me as though the battery could come out with the screen still attached. How am I wrong?

Just took out the earpiece out of my iPhone SE screen and put it into my iPhone 5s screen assembly. Which I will be using on my iPhone SE. Good stuff

I used a cherry stone pillow to heat up the display. I though it could be nearly the same as the iOpener one. It worked out very well

Do not skip this step. The proximity sensor is very easy to peel off the flexible circuit board if the adhesive isn't loosened.

I always use UNDU adhesive remover instead of heat. Works great for all adhesively mounted parts. I have used on numerous iphones and an iPad. If the glue stays stuck to the right part, then it is reusable still sticky when the UNDU dries out. When used on Home/TouchID button, it made the rubber membrane soft and misshapen, but it returned to normal shape when it dried out.

3M thin VHB tape 5908 can be used to replace any needed little sticky bits.

If you don’t have a heating pad, a hair dryer or heatgun on a low setting also works well for heating up this area.

Here an important tip no one thought to include: Opposed to other connectors, this one happens to be Paper Thin!

Yes! Do consider that, prior to prying the entire lens out of the housing!

Srsly iFixit?? why do i always need to destroy one model every device repair attempted (here)??!

I also kept trying to remove the plastic too… so thin film to remove only.

The trick is to place the tool more to the left than it is shown in the picture, and then work slowly towards the right.

The bracket for the proximity sensor is critical. some more detailed pictures and guidance would be helpful here. After attempting to replace the screen with a new screen that did not come with the proximity sensor, buying a new proximity sensor bracket, etc. I finally gave up and bought another screen that included the front-facing camera and proximity sensor pre-installed.

also, make sure you get the tiny rubber gasket that the prox sensor fits into snugly against the display. when i popped the sensor off, the gasket stayed behind, and i couldn't get the sensor to fit properly in the new display. i checked the old one again and saw the little rubber gasket that contours to the front camera lens opening on the display assembly. pulled it off with tweezers, and used it to get the prox sensor properly seated on the new display. i wish i'd taken a picture of it, but, well, my phone was in pieces in front of me.

I recently replaced a broken screen. The screen had shattered in the earphone area, and since the phone was new to me I didn't know about the camera clip and proximity sensor holder. These parts are just a few dollars online. I believe they are essential. My front camera has visible drift and the proximity sensor doesn't work.

I also had to remove the tiny black rubber gasket and move it to the new display. This was not easy. I also had lots of trouble getting the proximity sensor back in place during reassembly. I seemed to have another connector near the camera that had to be reconnected, but isn’t mentioned in this guide. More pictures on a white phone might make it easier to see all the tiny parts in this area.

Make sure your new screen does not have the plastic bit that holds the proximity sensor before you try to put the one from your old screen in. Mine came off with the proximity sensor, and I had a devil of a time figuring out why the proximity sensor wouldn’t seat.

The pictures and the text for this step are simply not adequate to properly illustrate the delicacy of the task - much more detailed pictures showing the removal of the light and proximity sensors is needed and also a very clear warning in the main text (like this) - it is very easy to unintentionally tear the proximity sensor off the cable assembly, destroying the proximity function and thus requiring a complete new front camera / light sensor / proximity sensor cable assembly !

Thanks Mike and Didier, great help !

What is that thing for? I replaced the section for my brother and his cheap repair part came without that thing to stick on and it seems to work…

Didn`t tear it , but there is no use in removing it since reusing LCD protector later, !@#$%^ me off. :-)

Why remove the copper sticker? Why not leave it attached since your are going to reuse LCD protector. Remove the home button before the camera and light sensor and save the LCD protector for last with everything attached to it.

I thirdly will ask for what the copper sticker is for!? I thought some kind of grounding?? I tore mine and the front facing camera is fuzzy now. It looks grainy. Almost like it isn't grounded good. ANY advice here would be appreciated.

Thanks

Agreed. Skip step 25. I can't fathom why it's in these otherwise excellent instructions.

Agreed - you don't need to do this step

Also skipped this step.

I tore mine also...wish I would have come here and read these helpful tips first.

step 32:while removing that piece on the LCD shield plate , I sheared that cable which is connected to the shield plate, so I skiped it and completed fixing, after that I found out that my iphone is not working .. I don't understand the problem from this cable or from the new screen ..

please help ..

email: maamoon95@hotmail.com

I phone 5s. During peeling off the shield plate from the LCD plate i damage it. What parts should i buy to replace this shield plate? lsanevich@gmail.com

I did the same as the above to people what part do i need to replace to fix this. I think this is causing my touch portion to not work. My email is camgoins23@gmail.com

I also ripped the copper cable. However when I booted the repaired phone without it, it wouldn’t boot. It was stuck in a loop. To fix this and it worked for me, hold the home button and power button until the phone display turns on again

What is the sticky plastic that I am peeling off called I tore that. Can I replace it?

If you stuck as me with attaching copper to back of the camera try:

1. put camera into the slot

2. move cables in that way to see metal back of the camera

3. copper should be able to stick into the camera in ‘natural’ way

In Mine,it is attached to the head of the can.like it was connected to it.