iPhone 13 Pro Max Battery Replacement

Written By: Sam Omiotek

Comments: 16

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

Follow this guide to replace the battery on an iPhone 13 Pro Max.

If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

Note: After the repair, your iPhone may display a warning about the “genuineness” of the battery, even when using original Apple parts. If your iPhone functions normally, you can safely ignore the warning.

For optimal performance, after completing this guide, calibrate your newly installed battery: Charge it to 100% and keep charging it for at least two more hours. Then use your iPhone until it shuts off due to low battery. Finally, charge it uninterrupted to 100%.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Caution: Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 6.8 mm-long pentalobe P2 screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

Are waterproof seals part of the replacement kit, if not why?

Jim Langston -

Step 2

If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.
Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.

Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?

Sloan Looney -

Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?

Clay Eickemeyer -

I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.

Clay Eickemeyer -

what fix kit?

Meow Purr -

My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either

WILLIAM HARRIS -

Make sure you check inside the black boxes after emptying them. My pick was stuck inside one of the boxes.

AndyF -

My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary

Gijs Leegwater -

Step 3

If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the screen.

Step 4

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 5

Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.
Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Step 6

Support your iPhone on something sturdy such as a hardcover book so it rests hands-free and parallel to the ground; this makes it easier to work with in the following steps.
Use a hair dryer to heat along the bottom edge of the iPhone. The screen should feel slightly too hot to touch.
For complete instructions on how to use a hair dryer, check out this guide.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick under the screen's plastic bezel when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle a quarter turn.
Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next three steps.

Step 7

Use a hair dryer or a heat gun to heat the bottom edge of the iPhone for 90 seconds or until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.
Never leave your hair dryer in one spot for an extended period of time.

Step 8

Apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the very edge of the glass.
Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the screen and the frame.
Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen's plastic bezel.
The watertight adhesive holding the screen in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

Step 9

Use a hair dryer to heat the right edge of the iPhone (the edge with the power button) for 90 seconds or until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.

Step 10

Slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPhone to separate its adhesive.
Continue sliding up the right edge of the iPhone until you reach the top right corner.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage internal components.
Leave the pick in the top right corner before continuing.

Step 11

Use a hair dryer to heat the top edge of the iPhone for 90 seconds or until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.

Step 12

Slide the opening pick around the top right corner of the iPhone to separate the top adhesive.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the top sensors.
Leave the pick in the top left corner before continuing.

Step 13

Use a hair dryer to heat the left edge of the iPhone for 90 seconds or until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.

Step 14

There are delicate cables along the left edge of your iPhone. Don't insert your pick here, as you may damage the cables.

Step 15

Insert a second opening pick in the bottom left corner of the iPhone.
Twist both picks simultaneously until the left edge clips release.
Apply the twisting force gradually.
If you're having trouble separating the adhesive, reheat the left edge.

Step 16

Remove your suction handle from the screen.
Rotate your iPhone so the right edge faces you.
Open your iPhone by swinging the display up from the right side, like the front cover of a book.
Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.

Step 17

Use a Y000 screwdriver to remove the three 1.3 mm screws securing the battery connector cover.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

Step 18

Remove the battery connector cover.

Step 19

Use the pointed end of a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

Step 20

Use the pointed end a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the display connector up from its socket on the logic board.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 21

Use a Y000 screwdriver to remove two 1.1 mm screws from the front sensor connector cover.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the remaining two screws from the front sensor connector cover:
One 1.5 mm screw
One 1.8 mm screw

Step 22

Remove the front sensor connector cover.

Step 23

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the front sensor assembly cable connector.

Step 24

Remove the display assembly.
During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display.

Step 25

Use a Phillips driver to remove the four 1.5 mm screws securing the loudspeaker:
Two larger-headed screws
Two smaller-headed screws

Step 26

Slide an opening pick between the top edge of the taptic engine and the adhesive-backed strip.

Step 27

Remove the loudspeaker.

Step 28

Pry up with the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine cable.

Step 29

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove two screws securing the Taptic Engine:
One 1.8 mm screw
One 1.9 mm screw
Use a standoff screwdriver to remove the 2.9 mm standoff screw securing the Taptic Engine.

Step 30

Remove the Taptic Engine.

Step 31

The battery is secured to the rear case with four pieces of stretch-release adhesive—two on the bottom edge of the battery, and two on the top edge.
Each piece of adhesive has a black pull-tab at the end, which is lightly adhered to the edge of the battery.
In the following steps, you'll pull each tab to slowly stretch out the adhesive underneath the battery. These "command-strip" style adhesives lose their stick when stretched, so you can remove the battery with ease.
If the strips break, don't panic! They don't always work as intended. Keep reading for tips on removing broken strips.

Step 32

Use a pair of blunt-nosed tweezers to peel down the two battery adhesive pull-tabs along the bottom edge of the battery.
Caution: Don't jab the battery with any sharp tools. A punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or catch fire.

Step 33

Grab the first pull-tab with your fingers or the center of a spudger and slowly pull it away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.
Pull hard enough to maintain tension on the strip, but don't force it. Give it plenty of time to stretch and un-stick from under the battery.
Don't press down on the battery. Hold the iPhone firmly by its sides.
Keep the strip flat and unwrinkled. Try to pull evenly on the whole strip, rather than pulling mainly in the middle or on one side.
Pull at a low angle so the strip doesn't snag on the edge of the battery.
If the adhesive strip breaks off, try to retrieve it using your fingers or blunt tweezers, and continue pulling—but do not pry under the battery.
If any of the adhesive strips break off underneath the battery and can't be retrieved, try to remove the other strips, and then proceed as instructed below.

Step 34

Grab the second pull-tab with your fingers or the center of a spudger and pull it away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.
Follow the same procedure as with the previous strip: don't press down on the battery, keep the strip flat and unwrinkled, and pull at a low angle.
If the adhesive strip breaks off, try to retrieve it using your fingers or blunt tweezers, and continue pulling—but do not pry under the battery.
If the adhesive breaks off underneath the battery and can't be retrieved, continue with the next step.

I have done hundreds of battery replacements in iPhones and since the iPhone 7, these command strips are designed NOT to work. My method now is to run isopropyl down behind the battery from the top, wait for several minutes and then gently prise the battery up from the top edge using a stiff but thin piece of plastic. Don't bent the battery and add more iso as it comes up. It very easily releases if you are patient. This method doesn't require removing the speaker and taptic engine.

Jack -

Step 35

Use a pair of blunt-nosed tweezers and an opening pick to peel up the two remaining battery adhesive pull-tabs from the top edge of the battery.

Step 36

Using the same procedure as before, pull the remaining two tabs, one at a time, to stretch and remove the remaining adhesive strips holding the battery in place. Try not to snag the adhesive on anything.
Be careful not to fling the battery from the iPhone as the final adhesive strip comes out.
If you removed all the adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.
Otherwise, continue with the next step below.

Step 37

If you're still having trouble removing the battery, apply a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol under the edge of the battery in the area of the broken adhesive strip(s).
Wait about one minute for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive.
Use an opening pick or the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery.
Don't try to forcefully lever the battery out. If needed, apply a few more drops of alcohol to further weaken the adhesive. Never deform or puncture the battery with your pry tool.

Step 38

Remove the battery.
If there's any alcohol solution remaining in the phone, carefully wipe it off with a coffee filter or lint-free cloth, or allow it to air dry before installing your new battery.
If your new battery didn't come with adhesive preinstalled, refer to this guide for help replacing the adhesive strips.
Perform a force restart after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPhone 13 Pro Max Answers community for help.

Author

Sam Omiotek

Member since: 25/02/19

72005 Reputation

7 comments

my battery got small leak and smelly stab by screw driver.. still ok or not?

ibrahim.utm -

No the battery is not okay, the battery is dangerous and needs to be disposed of appropriately and safely

Alaaedin Abdalla -

Does this come with the bms, I know usually to report the battery health data you need to weld the genuine apple bms on the the battery, I am assuming that it has one but just not the apple one hence why it wont track the battery health? is this correct? i would just like to know before purchasing

elijah howland -

I replaced the battery and phone wouldn't charge with cable or wireless is this a problem with the battery or something else and has anyone seen this problem before

raja singh -

How Apple could make this SO %#*@ convoluted, and difficult, extensively pulling out near everything else in the phone, BEFORE you can get to take out the battery?!?

This is UNBELIEVABLE.

I cant believe no one has commented this here before me , also!!

PS, did you guys used to give difficulty score ratings on each teardown? now I see a tiny little "moderate" there but...idk. this is pretty heavy repair for anyone if you're not already familiar and have also kept up to date or at least fixed an iPhone 11 or/preferably and, a 12 Pro Max.

Such a drag....

thanks for the teardown and I'm probably going to buy the battery from you guys , but I really thought id be going into this, pop out those pentalobes and be halfway done already! f%&k!

Jordan Howell -

I feel your frustration dude. Removing the Loudspeakers was helpful, but I think was unnecessary. But just take your time and do it and it'll be worth it at the end (If you're successful of course)

Nzube Okey-iwobi - 02/02/24

非常同意你的看法，由于需要拆除过多零件我开始想把它交给专业维修人员了。

Ace Ace -