iPhone 12 Pro Max Screen Replacement

Written By: Adam O'Camb

Comments: 17

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

If your iPhone 12 Pro Max screen is cracked, not responding to touch, or not showing a picture when your phone is powered on, use this guide to restore your iPhone to working order with a new screen, a.k.a. display assembly. This guide only covers steps for replacing a full display assembly that comes with a shield plate preinstalled.

The combined earpiece speaker + sensor assembly affixed to the back of the display is paired to your individual iPhone from the factory, so you must transfer it from your old display to your new one during any display replacement. It contains the flood illuminator, which is part of the biometric Face ID security feature. If it is damaged or replaced, Face ID will cease to function, so take extra care not to damage any of these components during this procedure. If damaged, only Apple or an Apple-authorized technician can restore Face ID function.

Note: True Tone functionality is disabled after a screen replacement, even when using an original Apple screen.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Caution: Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 6.7 mm-long pentalobe P2 screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

Step 2

If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.
Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.

Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?

Sloan Looney -

Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?

Clay Eickemeyer -

I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.

Clay Eickemeyer -

what fix kit?

Meow Purr -

My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either

WILLIAM HARRIS -

Make sure you check inside the black boxes after emptying them. My pick was stuck inside one of the boxes.

AndyF -

My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary

Gijs Leegwater -

Step 3

If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the screen.

Step 4

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 5

Pull the blue handle forwards to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Step 6

Support your iPhone on something sturdy such as a hardcover book so it rests hands-free and parallel to the ground; this makes it easier to work with in the following steps.
Use a hair dryer to heat along the bottom edge of the iPhone. The screen should feel slightly too hot to touch.
For complete instructions on how to use a hair dryer, check out this guide.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick under the screen's plastic bezel when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle a quarter turn.
Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next three steps.

Step 7

Use a hair dryer or a heat gun to heat the bottom edge of the iPhone for 90 seconds or until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.
Never leave your hair dryer in one spot for an extended period of time.

wenn man die Frontkamera nicht tauscht sondern nur anhebt und reinigt, funktioniert Face ID dann noch?

dominic327i -

Wenn du beim Aus- und Einbau alles richtig machst, dürfte dabei nichts passieren.

Fabian Neidhardt -

Step 8

If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the very edge of the glass.

Step 9

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the screen and the frame.
Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen's plastic bezel.
The watertight adhesive holding the screen in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

Be very careful on this step to insert the pick as vertically as possible!!! I ended up separating the glass from the outer frame on this step and destroying the screen. Not a cheap mistake to make!

L E -

Step 10

Use a hair dryer to heat the right edge of the iPhone (the edge with the power button) for 90 seconds or until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.

Step 11

Slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPhone to separate its adhesive.
Continue sliding up the right edge of the iPhone until you reach the top right corner.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage internal components.
Leave the pick in the top right corner before continuing.

Step 12

Use a hair dryer to heat the top edge of the iPhone for 90 seconds or until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.

Step 13

Slide the opening pick around the top right corner of the iPhone to separate the top adhesive.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the top sensors.
Leave the pick in the top left corner before continuing.

Step 14

Use a hair dryer to heat the left edge of the iPhone for 90 seconds or until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.

Step 15

There are delicate cables along the left edge of your iPhone. Don't insert your pick here, as you may damage the cables.

Step 16

Insert a second opening pick in the bottom left corner of the iPhone.
Twist both picks simultaneously until the left edge clips release.
Apply the twisting force gradually.
If you're having trouble separating the adhesive, reheat the left edge.

Step 17

Rotate your iPhone so the right edge faces you.
Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the right side, like the front cover of a book.
Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.

Step 18

Remove four 1.1 mm-long Y000 screws securing the battery and display connector cover.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

Step 19

Remove the battery and display connector cover.

Step 20

Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

Step 21

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the display cable connector.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 22

Use a Y000 driver to remove the four 1.1 mm-long screws securing the front sensor connector cover.

Step 23

Swing the cover up from the left until the small clip on the right unhooks.
Remove the cover.
During reassembly, insert the clip on the right edge into its slot first, then hinge the rest of the cover into place.

Step 24

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front sensor assembly cable connector.

when lifting up the front sensor assembly cable connector, you should use the flat end of the spudger. Using the pointed end as shown in the picture runs the risk of damaging components on the board and/or the cable connector itself.

Carter Taylor - 07/05/21

Step 25

Remove the display assembly.
During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display.

Step 26

Remove the four screws securing the speaker/sensor assembly to the back of the display.
Two 1.3 mm Phillips screws
One 1.8 mm shouldered Y000 screw
One 1.1 mm Y000 screw

Step 27

The earpiece speaker is lightly adhered in place.
Use tweezers or the point of a spudger to gently pry up the top edge of the speaker.
Flip the speaker assembly over—down and away from the top edge of the display.
The speaker remains attached via a very thin ribbon cable. Be careful not to strain or damage the cable.

Step 28

Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top front of the display for 1-2 minutes, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the display.

Step 29

Use the point of a spudger to lift and separate the ambient light sensor from its notch in the front panel.
Take care not to damage the light sensor ribbon cables while prying.
Continue sliding the spudger underneath the ambient light sensor and its cable to separate the adhesive securing the cable.

Step 30

Use the point of a spudger to lift and separate the microphone from its notch in the front panel.

Step 31

Use the point of a spudger to lift the proximity sensor and flood illuminator module out of its notch in the front panel.

Step 32

Remove the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly.
During reassembly, check the position of the black plastic module containing these components:
Proximity sensor
Flood illuminator
The module must be positioned so that these components are not obstructed by any adhesive.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPhone 12 Pro Max Answers community for troubleshooting help.

Author

Adam O'Camb

Member since: 11/04/15

195421 Reputation

6 comments

Thank you so much. how can I order fixit kit. Please I would like to replace my screen as soon as I could.

dawadolma09 -

We don’t have a fix kit available for this yet, but at the top of this guide you’ll find lists of the necessary parts and tools. Good luck with the screen replacement!

Adam O'Camb -

that's an excellent explanation thank you!

حيدر عباس مدب -

If I accidentally cut the upper ribbon while removing the screen, which piece do in have to order as a replacement?

Danloebel -

Really nice explanation! Easy to follow for Newbies and Pro's!

Andre Viermann -

replaced screen and also transferred the screen serial number to the new screen but still lost touch sensitivity and other functions. Is this a common problem?

Christopher Martinez -