iPad Pro 9.7" Home Button Replacement

Written By: Arthur Shi

Comments: 34

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

1 - 3 hours

Introduction

Follow this guide to remove and replace the home button in an iPad Pro 9.7".

Note: Your original home button assembly is paired to the iPad's logic board. You will lose Touch ID if any part of the home button assembly (button or cable) is replaced.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

Covering the screen with tape proved an essential safety step with the ipad display/lcd I just replaced. The screen was so badly broken that a part of it was almost powder, but the combination of the tape and sticky adhesive residue kept most of that together, and cleanup was pretty easy as a result. One caveat, though, is that the tape will probably make the suction cup useless for pulling up on the display. It did for me, anyway.

John Lasseter - 22/05/21

Step 2

The following steps involve using an iOpener to soften the adhesive holding the front panel assembly in place. When using the iOpener, be sure to heat it in the microwave for no more than 30 seconds.
Handling it by the tabs on either end, place a heated iOpener over the top edge of the iPad.
Let the iOpener sit on the iPad for two minutes to soften the adhesive securing the front panel to the rest of the iPad.

I see a lot of videos that show using a heat gun on low to soften the adhesive. I know there is inherent risk with this since you could start delaminating things, but is it something that could be considered (at your own risk)? Or is it something that could have more risks than I am realizing?

joshcorey -

Yes, you can definitely use a hair dryer, heat gun, or a heating pad. If you're using a heat gun, be careful not to overheat the display. The surface should feel slightly too hot to the touch.

Arthur Shi -

Step 3

While the iPad looks uniform from the outside, there are delicate components under certain portions of the front glass. To avoid damage, only heat and pry in the areas described in each step.
As you follow the directions, take special care to avoid prying in the following areas:
Home Button
Front Facing Camera
Main Camera

Verwirrend: Es sollte heissen, dass man an den beschriebenen Stellen eben NICHT hebeln sollte.

Felix - 04/04/21

Danke! Ich habe den Teil mit dem NICHT hebeln nochmal hervorgehoben.

Fabian Neidhardt - 07/04/21

The screen cable is on the right side at the bottom. Be super careful not to slice too deeply there

Gerald -

Step 4

The next two steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down two steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Elevate the iPad enough for the Anti-Clamp's arms to rest above and below the screen.
Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.
Position the suction cups near the top edge of the iPad—one on the front, and one on the back.
Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your device is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use packing tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 5

Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.
Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned to each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next two steps.

Do not use the anti clamp beyond this step. Doing so will run the risk of putting pressure on the screen and cracking it. Only use it for the initial opening of the device.

Playincrzy -

Step 6

Place a suction cup over the iPad's front-facing camera and press down to create a seal.
To get the most leverage, place the suction cup as close to the edge as possible without going past the edge of the display.

Step 7

Firmly pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the front panel and the rear case.
Do not pull too hard or you may shatter the glass.
Once you've opened a sufficient gap, insert an opening pick into the gap to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 8

Slide the pick along the edge of the display, towards the headphone jack.
If there is still a considerable amount of resistance when sliding the opening pick, repeat the iOpener heating procedure and apply additional heat.
Don't insert the pick past the bezel into the display area, or you will damage it.
A good rule of thumb is to never insert the opening pick more than a quarter inch into the iPad.

Step 9

Insert a second opening pick by the front-facing camera.

Step 10

Slide the second pick along the top edge of the iPad, towards the Sleep/Wake Button.

Step 11

Insert a third pick by the front-facing camera.

Step 12

Bring the right opening pick down and around the top right corner of the iPad.

Step 13

Bring the left opening pick around the top left corner of the tablet.

Step 14

Reheat the iOpener and lay it over the right edge of the display to loosen the adhesive underneath.

Step 15

Slide the right opening pick roughly halfway down the display.

Step 16

Reheat the iOpener and apply heat to the left side of the iPad.

Step 17

Slide the left-hand opening pick about halfway down the edge of the display.

Step 18

Slide the opposite opening pick down to the bottom right corner of the iPad.
If necessary, reheat the adhesive on the right edge to loosen the display assembly.

The screen cable is on the right side at the bottom. Be super careful not to slice too deeply there

Gerald -

Step 19

Slide the left-hand opening pick down the edge of the display until you reach the corner.

The screen cable is on the right side at the bottom. Be super careful not to slice too deeply there

Gerald -

Step 20

Use the iOpener to apply heat to the bottom edge of the iPad.

Step 21

Bring the right-hand opening pick around the bottom corner of the iPad.

Step 22

Repeat for the left-hand pick.
Reheat and reapply the iOpener as needed.

Step 23

Remove the right-hand opening pick at the bottom of the iPad.

Step 24

Slide the left-hand opening pick along the bottom edge of the display, then remove it from the bottom right corner of the iPad.
Be very careful to not insert the pick more than a quarter inch into the display to avoid damaging the Home Button and display cables underneath.

Step 25

Use picks to ensure most of the adhesive has been cut through on the top, left, and bottom sides.
Twist the top and bottom picks to separate the display assembly from the rear case.
Do not attempt to remove the display—it is still attached to the rear case.

Step 26

Swing the display assembly towards the right of the case, using the right edge as a hinge.
As you move the display assembly, make sure that the display ribbon cable is not being stressed.
Continue swinging the display assembly until it lays flat next to the rear case.

Step 27

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the eleven 1.3 mm screws securing the EMI shield.

Step 28

Apply a heated iOpener to the EMI shield on the logic board for one minute.

Step 29

Lift the logic board EMI shield, starting at the edge nearest the top of the iPad.
Slowly peel the EMI shield up from the logic board.
This takes a bit of force due to the many tiny clips securing the shield, and the shield may deform slightly. That's okay—try to keep the deformation to a minimum, and it will lay flat when reinstalled and screwed down.
Remove the logic board EMI shield.

Don't peel the cover as shown from a short side. Lift the long side to avoid creasing the cover so much. This way it will lie flat when you reassemble it and not look so ugly. Also, you won't have to straighten so many creases with pliers

Jim Meyers -

Step 30

Use a Phillips driver to remove the 1.7 mm-long screw securing the battery connector.

What size is this screw?

Austin Martin - 24/12/20

i get 1.65mm with my calipers but the 1.3s read 1.25 on my calipers too, so probably a 1.7mm

bunjamins - 13/05/21

Step 31

If the EMI shield has any sharp protrusions after removal, you should flatten them before reinstalling the shield.
Squeeze the sharp protrusion with a pair of pliers to flatten it.
Repeat the process for all sharp protrusions along the edges of the EMI shield.

Don't peel the cover as shown from a short side. Lift the long side to avoid creasing the cover so much. This way it will lie flat when you reassemble it and not look so ugly.

Jim Meyers -

Step 32

These photos show what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Use these photos as a reference while you safely disconnect the battery.
Notice that the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you'll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.

Le connecteur de batterie est il réparable si abîmé ?

Maverick -

Step 33

Be careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily bent or broken, resulting in irreversible damage.
Ensure that the iFixit logo on the battery blocker is facing up.
Slide the battery blocker underneath the left side of the logic board's battery connector at a 35 degree angle.
The battery blocker's right prong should slide between the left side of the logic board's battery connector and the battery's contact pads. The left prong should slide under the logic board.
Don't push the battery blocker underneath the connector or logic board with excessive force. If you're having trouble fitting the battery blocker underneath the logic board, refer to the next step for information on loosening the logic board. You can also try using a playing card to disconnect the battery instead.
The battery blocker or playing card should slide under the logic board without encountering any blockages. After insertion, they should rest at a 15 degree angle.
Leave the battery blocker in place as you work.

le connecteur de la batterie est t’il remplaçable ou repérable si jamais abîmé ?

Maverick -

Step 34

If the battery blocker doesn't easily slide under the logic board, follow these steps to partially loosen the logic board from the frame:
Apply a few drops of high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol under the logic board to the left and right of the battery connection.
Wait one minute for the isopropyl alcohol to weaken the adhesive under the logic board.
Try to insert the battery blocker. If the logic board doesn't easily lift up, apply a few more drops of isopropyl alcohol.
This doesn't apply when using the playing card method to disconnect the battery because the playing card is only inserted between the battery connector and the battery contact pads.

Step 35

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the display cable bracket.

i think we need to talk about the battery situation here. apple change up the style of battery connector on this model as well as some others. if someone can add to this list and add the appropriate photos in the right spot should help someone else. the battery tabs are open towards the battery side and inserting a tool in this area can pry them open further and damage or rip off the tab. some have found that by lifting on either side of the battery tab, they would not even encounter the tabs.

greg - 14/07/20

Step 36

Remove the display cable bracket.

A tab was folded over a connector of some sort on the bottom side. I found it was a better to pull from the top to the bottom to fold the tabs slightly to remove this cover.

rosecitymech - 09/12/19

Actually it helps to move the cover slightly towards the bottom of the iPad as that disengages to tabs…

DeeAnn Hopings - 06/06/21

Step 37

Use the flat end of the spudger to disconnect the display assembly connector from the motherboard socket.

Step 38

Repeat the previous step for the two remaining connectors.

Step 39

Remove the display assembly from the frame.
If you are reusing the original display assembly, follow this display adhesive application guide to apply replacement display adhesive during reassembly.

You "CAN" skip steps 41 through 98 and 102-109 if you're confident in your repair abilities and PATIENT. Lots of alcohol around all the edges of the battery, and apply heat to the back cover on one half of the battery, the slowly ease your "card under the edges of the battery. Wiggle it back and forth and add more alcohol under the edges of the battery where your working; DONT PUSH your card to hard or you will sli[p and damage components. Then do the same for the other half. When both halves are loose, fold over one end and slide the flat edge off the spudger under the area of the logic board next to the battery connector, then do the same to the other side; you want just enough of a gap under the logic board to lift the battery tab off of the post then you can remove the battery.

Gregg Stanley -

ディスプレイアッセンブリを外して、黒くて古い接着テープをはがしすためにぴっぱったら、ディスプレイと本体基盤を接続するコネクターのテーブを不注意で切断してしまった。これで、交換はあきらめで中止。注意されたし。ちなみに、手順４１～８９は省いてもバッテリー交換ができるのではないかと思います。

susuper -

Step 40

Use tweezers to remove the tape covering the ZIF connector above the home button.

Step 41

Use the point of a spudger to lift the flap on the ZIF connector that secures the cable.

Step 42

Use tweezers to slide the cable out of the ZIF connector.

Step 43

The home button's ribbon cable is very fragile. If it gets damaged, Touch ID will no longer function.
Use an iOpener, heat gun, or hair dryer to soften the adhesive under the cable before you pry it up.
Alternatively, apply a few drops of isopropyl alcohol to the cable and wait for a minute to let the adhesive soften.

I used a heat gun on low air, set to 150°C, and very very gentle pressure with the tweezers, and it came out very easily and neatly.

trevorsklar -

Step 44

Starting from the ZIF connector, use an opening pick to separate the home button cable from the adhesive holding it in place. Stop when you reach the home button.

Step 45

The home button bracket is held in place with strong adhesive.
Apply a few drops of isopropyl alcohol to the base of the home button bracket.
Alternatively, you can use a heated iOpener to loosen the adhesive.

Step 46

Insert the edge of an opening tool under the home button bracket lip.
Pry up with steady force to loosen the bracket.
The adhesive holding this bracket can be stubborn. Apply more isopropyl alcohol or heat if it doesn't budge.

Step 47

Remove the home button bracket.
Be careful when you remove the home button bracket. There may be a small plastic washer wedged between the bracket and the button. If there is, be sure to retain this washer for reinstallation.
During reassembly, after installing the home button, you'll need to glue this bracket into place to secure it.
Scrape off as much of the old adhesive residue as you can, then clean it with acetone or high concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol.
Secure the bracket with E6000 glue, superglue, or high-strength double-sided tape. Make sure the bracket is aligned correctly before allowing your adhesive to cure, or the home button will not click when pressed.

Would be really nice if the adhesive strip kit for the screen included the adhesive bits needed to secure the existing home button to the new screen (or a new home button to an existing screen).

Marc Nelson - 28/08/19

One more thing about the bracket: you really need a strong adhesive when you put it back, so that pushing the button doesn’t dislodge it. If it doesn’t hold the button firmly, you can push the button out of its socket during normal use. Getting the bracket in and aligning it without accidentally sticking it in the wrong place or (much worse) sticking it to the fragile ribbon cable takes some very careful work.

This is an excellent guide, but I’d like to see maybe the first two steps of reassembly, showing how to do this correctly.

John Lasseter - 22/05/21

When replacing the bracket, a very slight difference in the replacement part caused the bracket to make the home button click all the time. The little white washer between the home button and the back of the glass was about 0.3 mm thicker than the original, and i had already superglued those parts together.

Fortunately, the playing card included in the kit is about 0.3 mm thick. I cut 2 small rectangles and superglued them to the feet of the bracket, so it would stand away from the home button. Then superglued the bracket on, and now it clicks perfectly. Hopefully I don't have any issues with the playing card delaminating as the home button wears, because I definitely don't know if i could get this ipad apart again (the first time was easier because the screen was already shattered).

trevorsklar -

Step 48

Gently push the home button from the front of the display inward using the tip of a finger.

The gasket tears easily, so go slower than I did. I should have heated the button up so to help the gasket release.

jpmist -

Step 49

Remove the home button.
The home button attaches to the screen with an adhesive gasket. When you transfer the home button to a new display, use some liquid adhesive to glue the button perimeter to the screen.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order. Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

Author

Arthur Shi

Member since: 03/01/18

248651 Reputation

9 comments

You swapped iPads half way thru. These pictures are all for the 10.5, not the 9.7. The home buttons and connectors are different. Please fix.

bryceschutte - 26/06/19

Hello bryceschutte,

I took a look at the Home Button for the iPad Pro 9.7”. While it looks slightly different in terms of bracket shape, the steps described (which came from an iPad Pro 12.9” guide) should be almost identical.

Arthur Shi - 26/06/19

My iPad A1673 does not have the large rectangle silver piece near the home button connector.

Jollymon - 20/07/19

I have swapped the home button but i have no function at all from the replacement, i have used 3 different replacements. Is this normal? Have i lost the return to home function? I expected to loose the touch id, but believed the return to home would still work.

Alan Crowley - 08/08/19

Hi Alan,

The return to home should still work with a replacement button. I would suggest checking and re-seating all the connectors that are related to the Home button.

Arthur Shi - 12/08/19

If I have an iPad Pro 9.7” with cell phone capability, but the home button and screen are broken. Could I replace screen and home button of a working iPad Pro 9.7” with no cell phone ability, and still retain my ability to unlock with fingerprints ?

Thanks please help,

Much love

–Drew

Andrew Sima - 09/11/19

Hi Drew,

While the screens are compatible between the two models, the fingerprint capability only works with the original fingerprint sensor.

Arthur Shi - 11/11/19

hello! I run a repair shop in NW Florida. I need to know how to get the ORIGINAL button to click. the Touch ID works wonderfully but the main issue is that the nipple on the back plate of the home button won’t click the switch on the home button. any useful tips to make them connect? are there any jerryrigged stuff that you all have tried? i’m open to all ideas

Abe Arslan - 26/01/21

Hi Abe,

When you press the Home button, the switch on the back plate pushes against the button cover. This cover was originally glued in place, so it’s likely you’ll need to securely re-glue the cover in place in order for the button to have a solid surface to push against. If the switch doesn’t reliably reach the button cover when you push on the button, you can try putting a few layers of tape on the button cover to narrow the gap.

Arthur Shi - 27/01/21