iPad Pro 9.7" Battery Blocking

Step 1

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

Covering the screen with tape proved an essential safety step with the ipad display/lcd I just replaced. The screen was so badly broken that a part of it was almost powder, but the combination of the tape and sticky adhesive residue kept most of that together, and cleanup was pretty easy as a result. One caveat, though, is that the tape will probably make the suction cup useless for pulling up on the display. It did for me, anyway.

John Lasseter - 22/05/21

Step 2

The following steps involve using an iOpener to soften the adhesive holding the front panel assembly in place. When using the iOpener, be sure to heat it in the microwave for no more than 30 seconds.
Handling it by the tabs on either end, place a heated iOpener over the top edge of the iPad.
Let the iOpener sit on the iPad for two minutes to soften the adhesive securing the front panel to the rest of the iPad.

I see a lot of videos that show using a heat gun on low to soften the adhesive. I know there is inherent risk with this since you could start delaminating things, but is it something that could be considered (at your own risk)? Or is it something that could have more risks than I am realizing?

joshcorey -

Yes, you can definitely use a hair dryer, heat gun, or a heating pad. If you're using a heat gun, be careful not to overheat the display. The surface should feel slightly too hot to the touch.

Arthur Shi -

Step 3

While the iPad looks uniform from the outside, there are delicate components under certain portions of the front glass. To avoid damage, only heat and pry in the areas described in each step.
As you follow the directions, take special care to avoid prying in the following areas:
Home Button
Front Facing Camera
Main Camera

Verwirrend: Es sollte heissen, dass man an den beschriebenen Stellen eben NICHT hebeln sollte.

Felix - 04/04/21

Danke! Ich habe den Teil mit dem NICHT hebeln nochmal hervorgehoben.

Fabian Neidhardt - 07/04/21

The screen cable is on the right side at the bottom. Be super careful not to slice too deeply there

Gerald -

Step 4

The next two steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down two steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Elevate the iPad enough for the Anti-Clamp's arms to rest above and below the screen.
Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.
Position the suction cups near the top edge of the iPad—one on the front, and one on the back.
Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your device is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use packing tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 5

Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.
Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned to each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next two steps.

Do not use the anti clamp beyond this step. Doing so will run the risk of putting pressure on the screen and cracking it. Only use it for the initial opening of the device.

Playincrzy -

Step 6

Place a suction cup over the iPad's front-facing camera and press down to create a seal.
To get the most leverage, place the suction cup as close to the edge as possible without going past the edge of the display.

Step 7

Firmly pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the front panel and the rear case.
Do not pull too hard or you may shatter the glass.
Once you've opened a sufficient gap, insert an opening pick into the gap to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 8

Slide the pick along the edge of the display, towards the headphone jack.
If there is still a considerable amount of resistance when sliding the opening pick, repeat the iOpener heating procedure and apply additional heat.
Don't insert the pick past the bezel into the display area, or you will damage it.
A good rule of thumb is to never insert the opening pick more than a quarter inch into the iPad.

Step 9

Insert a second opening pick by the front-facing camera.

Step 10

Slide the second pick along the top edge of the iPad, towards the Sleep/Wake Button.

Step 11

Insert a third pick by the front-facing camera.

Step 12

Bring the right opening pick down and around the top right corner of the iPad.

Step 13

Bring the left opening pick around the top left corner of the tablet.

Step 14

Reheat the iOpener and lay it over the right edge of the display to loosen the adhesive underneath.

Step 15

Slide the right opening pick roughly halfway down the display.

Step 16

Reheat the iOpener and apply heat to the left side of the iPad.

Step 17

Slide the left-hand opening pick about halfway down the edge of the display.

Step 18

Slide the opposite opening pick down to the bottom right corner of the iPad.
If necessary, reheat the adhesive on the right edge to loosen the display assembly.

The screen cable is on the right side at the bottom. Be super careful not to slice too deeply there

Gerald -

Step 19

Slide the left-hand opening pick down the edge of the display until you reach the corner.

The screen cable is on the right side at the bottom. Be super careful not to slice too deeply there

Gerald -

Step 20

Use the iOpener to apply heat to the bottom edge of the iPad.

Step 21

Bring the right-hand opening pick around the bottom corner of the iPad.

Step 22

Repeat for the left-hand pick.
Reheat and reapply the iOpener as needed.

Step 23

Remove the right-hand opening pick at the bottom of the iPad.

Step 24

Slide the left-hand opening pick along the bottom edge of the display, then remove it from the bottom right corner of the iPad.
Be very careful to not insert the pick more than a quarter inch into the display to avoid damaging the Home Button and display cables underneath.

Step 25

Use picks to ensure most of the adhesive has been cut through on the top, left, and bottom sides.
Twist the top and bottom picks to separate the display assembly from the rear case.
Do not attempt to remove the display—it is still attached to the rear case.

Step 26

Swing the display assembly towards the right of the case, using the right edge as a hinge.
As you move the display assembly, make sure that the display ribbon cable is not being stressed.
Continue swinging the display assembly until it lays flat next to the rear case.

Step 27

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the eleven 1.3 mm screws securing the EMI shield.

Step 28

Apply a heated iOpener to the EMI shield on the logic board for one minute.

Step 29

Lift the logic board EMI shield, starting at the edge nearest the top of the iPad.
Slowly peel the EMI shield up from the logic board.
This takes a bit of force due to the many tiny clips securing the shield, and the shield may deform slightly. That's okay—try to keep the deformation to a minimum, and it will lay flat when reinstalled and screwed down.
Remove the logic board EMI shield.

Don't peel the cover as shown from a short side. Lift the long side to avoid creasing the cover so much. This way it will lie flat when you reassemble it and not look so ugly. Also, you won't have to straighten so many creases with pliers

Jim Meyers -

Step 30

Use a Phillips driver to remove the 1.7 mm-long screw securing the battery connector.

What size is this screw?

Austin Martin - 24/12/20

i get 1.65mm with my calipers but the 1.3s read 1.25 on my calipers too, so probably a 1.7mm

bunjamins - 13/05/21

Step 31

If the EMI shield has any sharp protrusions after removal, you should flatten them before reinstalling the shield.
Squeeze the sharp protrusion with a pair of pliers to flatten it.
Repeat the process for all sharp protrusions along the edges of the EMI shield.

Don't peel the cover as shown from a short side. Lift the long side to avoid creasing the cover so much. This way it will lie flat when you reassemble it and not look so ugly.

Jim Meyers -

Step 32

These photos show what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Use these photos as a reference while you safely disconnect the battery.
Notice that the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you'll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.

Le connecteur de batterie est il réparable si abîmé ?

Maverick -

Step 33

Be careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily bent or broken, resulting in irreversible damage.
Ensure that the iFixit logo on the battery blocker is facing up.
Slide the battery blocker underneath the left side of the logic board's battery connector at a 35 degree angle.
The battery blocker's right prong should slide between the left side of the logic board's battery connector and the battery's contact pads. The left prong should slide under the logic board.
Don't push the battery blocker underneath the connector or logic board with excessive force. If you're having trouble fitting the battery blocker underneath the logic board, refer to the next step for information on loosening the logic board. You can also try using a playing card to disconnect the battery instead.
The battery blocker or playing card should slide under the logic board without encountering any blockages. After insertion, they should rest at a 15 degree angle.
Leave the battery blocker in place as you work.

le connecteur de la batterie est t’il remplaçable ou repérable si jamais abîmé ?

Maverick -

Step 34

If the battery blocker doesn't easily slide under the logic board, follow these steps to partially loosen the logic board from the frame:
Apply a few drops of high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol under the logic board to the left and right of the battery connection.
Wait one minute for the isopropyl alcohol to weaken the adhesive under the logic board.
Try to insert the battery blocker. If the logic board doesn't easily lift up, apply a few more drops of isopropyl alcohol.
This doesn't apply when using the playing card method to disconnect the battery because the playing card is only inserted between the battery connector and the battery contact pads.

iPad Pro 9.7" Battery Blocking

Introduction

Tools

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 5

Step 6

Step 7

Step 8

Step 9

Step 10

Step 11

Step 12

Step 13

Step 14

Step 15

Step 16

Step 17

Step 18

Step 19

Step 20

Step 21

Step 22

Step 23

Step 24

Step 25

Step 26

Step 27

Step 28

Step 29

Step 30

Step 31

Step 32

Step 33

Step 34

Author

Kyle Smith

0 comments