Introduction

Follow this guide to replace the hard drive for your iMac. Replacing the hard drive requires separating the display and moving the left speaker.

This guide also includes steps to upgrade your iMac's hard drive with a SSD. It describes how to install the SSD's temperature sensor so that the Mac's fans will operate at the correct speed.

Before beginning any work on your iMac: Unplug the computer and press and hold the power button for ten seconds to discharge the power supply's capacitors.

Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply.

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    • Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear case.

    • The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert it no more than 3/8" (9.5 mm) into the display. You risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage if you insert the tool too far.

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    • Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center.

    • Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle.

    • Run the tool up along the left side of the display.

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    • Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner.

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    • Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.

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    • Continue along the top of the display.

    • You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.

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    • Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.

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    • Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.

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    • Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display.

    • At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.

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    • While the opening tool did the lion's share of the work, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive.

    • Set the iMac face-up on a table.

    • Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, insert a plastic card between the display and frame.

    • Be careful not to insert it more than 3/8" (9.5 mm), or you may damage internal components.

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    • Gently twist the plastic card to open the space between the display and frame, and cut any remaining adhesive near the corner.

    • Using too much force will crack the glass. Work carefully, and don't try to create a gap any larger than about 1/4" (6 mm).

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    • Be sure to stop cutting before the iSight camera in this step, or you may damage it.

    • Slide the card toward the center of the display, to cut any remaining adhesive.

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    • Put the card into the corner again and let it stay there to keep the adhesive from resettling.

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    • Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner.

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    • Gently twist the card, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame.

    • As with the other side, move slowly to allow the adhesive to break, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.

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    • Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.

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    • Insert the card back into the top left corner.

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    • With the cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards to increase the gap between display and case.

    • If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the adhesive in the problem area.

    • Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.

    • Only lift the display a few inches—it is still attached to the iMac by data and power cables.

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    • While holding the display up with one hand, use the other to unplug the display power cable.

    • Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connections, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").

    This is not a picture of the 2019 model. On the 2019, the cable is angled and very close to a metal part that looks like it could be a wireless card. This makes it difficult to squeeze in the edges required to release the cable. I was able to unfasten it using my fingernail, doing one side at a time.

    maccentric -

    Same issue. You can't just pull it out. I used a plastic "spudger" to push the clips in. The photo here shows where to press

    https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0qG...

    See also my comment in step 20

    Bill4321 -

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    • Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

    • Disconnect the display data cable.

    • This is a delicate connection that can easily be broken. Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.

    on the 2020 model there is also a connector from the camera that is connected ted to the screen.

    Erwin Biermans -

    This isn't the photo of my IMac 27 2019.

    To remove this clip, lift up the plastic tag sticking down & the metal clip will lift too

    https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0qG...

    Bill4321 -

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    • Lift the display up to a near-vertical position.

    • At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.

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    • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (boxed in red).

    • Grasp the small tab at the end of one of the bottom edge display adhesive strips and pull the adhesive toward the top of the iMac to remove it.

    • Repeat this step with the other adhesive strip and remove it.

    • If either adhesive strip breaks before it's removed, use a plastic card to slice through the remaining adhesive.

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    • Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass. The display has fragile edges. Avoid lifting the display by the corners.

    • Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac. Lay the display face down on a flat, soft surface.

    • It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive.

    • After the adhesive is cut, it cannot be used to re-seal the display in place. Follow the adhesive replacement guide for your model when your repair is complete to replace the adhesive strips that secure the display to the rear enclosure.

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    • Use a T10 driver to remove the two 10 mm screws securing the left speaker.

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    • Shift the loosened left speaker to the left—enough to uncover the hard drive bracket screws.

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    • Pull straight up on the SATA combo cable to disconnect it from the drive.

    Where can I purchase this cable if my iMac only came with the m.2 SSD?

    Julien Dal Col -

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    • Use a T8 driver to remove the two 7.3 mm screws securing the left hard drive bracket to the rear case.

    they are T9 for 2012.

    sean_gizzle -

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    • Grab the hard drive and left hard drive bracket together.

    • Tilt the left side away from the rear case, and slide the assembly to the left.

    • Remove the hard drive and left hard drive bracket from the iMac.

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    • Remove the left hard drive bracket.

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    • Remove the four 8.1 mm T8 screw posts from the hard drive, and transfer them to the replacement drive enclosure.

    In my case these were T9 screw posts. Late 2012 iMac. They had traces of Loctite on them.

    rsnadd -

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    • Follow the remaining steps if you are replacing your hard drive with an SSD kit.

    • If your SSD enclosure looks like the first image, follow this guide instead.

    • Line up the SSD connectors with the metal enclosure's sockets.

    • Press the drive against the enclosure sockets until the SSD is firmly seated.

    • The SSD connects with the enclosure in only one direction. If the connectors don't line up, rotate the SSD and try again.

    what if I’m installing a hard drive?

    Troy Garcia -

    Didn’t bother with the SSD caddy. Some 3M sticky pads did the trick!

    James Clive -

    Been using them for years...works great.

    Michael Maxson -

    Two thoughts on SSD replacement/upgrade:

    1) It would help if some references were made to help us determine what we need in terms form factors. I’ve never used an SSD and see a 2.5” one that would work, but I don’t know if 2.5” SSDs are different (in form factor) from 2.5” HDs. A lot of us are still learning about SSDs and isn’t that what this site is about? (Learning new things about hardware and using hardware?)

    2) I’m not clear if I definitely need a new temperature sensor if I put in an SSD or if

    Hal Vaughan -

    Can I buy the kit without the SSD. I'm thinking of replacing my 3TB hard drive with a 4TB SSD.

    Also, would you happen to know what the maximum hard drive dimension that can fit inside of this iMac? I may try a 14TB hard drive instead.

    Larry -

    A 14Tb HDD does not represent any problem. But I will care about rising temperature. Must attach a heat sensor. If rise to high, it will suddenly shutdown to protect it.

    Neos Marketing -

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    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to install the four silver screws (two on each side) along the edges of the SSD to secure it to the enclosure.

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    • Plug the included sensor-enabled combo cable into the enclosure's port.

    • The cable is keyed to connect in only one orientation. If you can't connect the cable, rotate it 180° and try again.

    Is the thermal sensor needed? I fitted a replacement SSD and it’s all back together and the iMac’s fans are fine. They don’t go into full max speed mode.

    James Clive -

    If you have a problem with the fans, you can always use Macs Fan Control (free) to set the speed. The sensor is not needed.

    maccentric -

    Hi, thanks for good information. Do we need intermediate SSD cables (red, black and yellow)? iMac has SATA original cable.

    O S -

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    • Peel the white liner off the back of the small temperature sensor board in order to expose the adhesive.

    • Adhere the temperature sensor board to an exposed, metal surface of the SSD, close to the SATA connector.

    • Fold the excess temperature sensor wires so that they are out of the way while you install the enclosure.

    Great pics ! Is that “temp sensor board” is already on my HDD IMAC ?? Or must I buy one ?

    kenclark200 -

    Don’t bother with the thermal sensor. I didn’t fit one and the iMac is working fine and no fans are kicking in.

    James Clive -

    Instructions say to attach sensor to the SSD, but all pictures show it being attached to the SSD carrier. This may not represent accurate SSD temp as much of the carrier dissipates the heat absorbed from the SSD

    chris byrne -

    Confirmed, no need for the extra temp sensor on Mid-2015 iMac. (EMC 2806, Mid-2015 27" iMac). Just changed the old 1TB HDD to SSD, no extra fan RPM after power on.

    Laszlo Nyirfa -

    The adhesive on the sensor is very weak. My sensor fell off after a couple of days. Is there a safe glue to use to adhere it to the SSD? Super glue?

    estyle18 -

    FWIW I bought a 4TB Western Digital Blue SSD. The entire case of the SSD is plastic- there is no metal. Hoping the temp sensor adheres to it okay.

    Kupe -

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    • Use a T8 driver to install the mounting pins from the old hard drive onto the sides of the enclosure.

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    • Attach any mounting brackets removed from the old hard drive onto the enclosure.

    i don't have a combo cable.i also didn't have asata drive. just a blade ssd. i don't see wwhere i could add a cable

    Larry Paterson -

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    • Connect the iMac's combo cable to the new temperature-enabled combo cable.

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    • The images used in this step come from a 2017 iMac. Your cables may look slightly different, but the procedure remains the same.

    • Slide the SSD enclosure into the space previously occupied by the hard drive.

    • Route the cables so that they will not interfere with any other components.

    • Try to keep the cables free from any sharp bends, and route them such that they are not pinched.

    The SATA cable on my Late 2012 was not long enough to comfortably attach to the end of the temperature sensor array after it was plugged into the new SSD. I had to fold the array and slide it under the SSD and housing. There was much resistance to the folding so I took it slowly to let the wires adjust gradually to the fold so they would not break.

    Bob Enders -

    Unfortunately, the adapter that comes with it isn't long enough to avoid pushing against the screen in the front. One week after upgrading to SSD my screen fell off shattering and breaking the power connector on the systems board. A new screen is ordered but I'm hoping the power connector isn't damaged beyond repair. I'm going to try to adhere the HD adapter to the back inside of the case with 3m adhesive to avoid pressure against the screen.

    Erik Johnson -

    As a newbie, the only other upgrade I have done is to replace my iPhone 7 battery. I had trouble on reassembly.

    This is a great upgrade guide, but it would be important to me to see the reassembly instructions including the cautions.

    For example, I had issues with reattaching the plugs in the phone. I could see having an issue with them here, as well as repositioning the display back into the cabinet.

    I do PCB board repair work and repair pinball machines. But I won’t try this.

    Larry Hamm -

    how do i glue on the new screen? which glue is used?

    Marc Seeh -

    Try 3m double sided tape from Amazon, it available in 3mm width which is ideal for iMac screen. It has a very thin foam and is much better quality than the cheap Chinese kits available on Amazon. You will have to trim it to size with a sharp craft blade as you fit. Don’t risk your screen falling off from using cheap tape in the so called fitting kits!

    Tony Street -

    In my Late 2012 27" iMac I Scotch-taped the SATA connector to the case to stop it from pushing against the screen after reassembly.

    Richard Brockbank -

    Only 39 steps!

    Is it possible to clone the internal disk and have the imac boot off the external SSD?

    D Leinweber -

    The extension cable is too long. I folded it over carefully & stuck it down to the case using a double sided sticky pad. Photo here

    https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0qG...

    Bill4321 -

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

Adam O'Camb

Member since: 11/04/15

195421 Reputation

10 comments

Hola.

¿Es realmente necesario colocarle el sensor de temperatura al iMac A2115 de 2019?

Gracias. Saludos

thetwoangels -

A great and very carefully and detailed instruction. But what about glueing the glass pane back to the iMac? How does that work?

Thanks for any hint!

Hans Mueller -

Hi Hans,

The instructions on how to glue the display back is embedded in step 23. Here is a quick link to the instructions!

Arthur Shi -

If I replace a factory 1T SSD with a new 2T SSD . . .

am I correct in assuming it will already have the temperature sensor attached?

Would I need to replace the adhesive?

Mcorney -

If you purchase the bundle from iFixit, the bundle will come with a temperature sensor. You can’t re-use the existing adhesives and will need to replace them. They are also included in the bundle.

Arthur Shi -

Cual es el part-number del cable Sata? Sabéis si el iMac 27” 2019 con disco duro pci-express 512gb viene con el cable Sata para instalar un disco duro Sata?

gracias

What is the part-number of the Sata cable?  Do you know if the iMac 27 ”2019 with 512gb pci-express hard drive comes with the Sata cable to install a Sata hard drive?

 Thank you

Eugenio -

Can I install an additional SSD to my blade? Is the SATA cable already in or has Apple saved a few cent¿

cubdiel -

My 2019 iMac had a 2tb Fusion drive. This consisted of a 128gb blade and a 2tb SATA Seagate spinning HDD. I replaced the spinning disk with a SATA Samsung SSD + temp sensor, and then recreated a Fusion drive with the blade SSD and SATA SSD. As per this guide, I re-used the original SATA cable. Not sure if this would be different if your original spec was SSD only.

green_coconut -

I am using the late 2019 version of iMac 27". Currently, the iMac has installed 3TB fusion drive but I want to replace the larger capacity of the HDD. So what is the maximum storage capacity of the HDD? Is it possible to install a 16TB HDD like NAS HDD? Thank you for the feedback in advance.

Jay Juon -

iMac19,1,3.6 GHz Core i9 (I9-9900K)。可以,我更换的型号是:HDD西部数据WDC  WUH721816ALE6L4,NVME海康威视(慧荣主控)HS-SSD-C2000Pro 2048G。融合硬盘,缺点是更换HDD没有加装温度传感器风扇狂转,不知道更换希捷的硬盘会不会好点,我现在的解决办法是Macs Fan Control。还有就是更换硬盘前需要做U盘系统。

大木木 -