Steam Deck OLED Right Bumper Replacement

Written By: Clay Eickemeyer

Comments: 1

Steam Deck OLED Right Bumper Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

45 minutes - 1 hour

Introduction

Use this guide to replace the right bumper (R1) in your Steam Deck OLED.

Although the procedure is nearly identical, follow this guide to replace the left bumper (L1).

Remember to follow general electrostatic discharge (ESD) safety procedures while repairing your device.

Tools

Parts

Steam Deck OLED Right Bumper Button

Step 1

Turn on your Steam Deck and allow the battery to discharge below 25% before starting your repairs, as a charged lithium-ion polymer battery can be dangerous if accidentally punctured.
As an extra precaution, Valve recommends putting your Steam Deck into battery storage mode within the BIOS before starting any internal repairs. Read how to do that here.
Power down your Steam Deck and unplug any cables.
If you have a microSD card installed, make sure to remove it before opening the Steam Deck. If you attempt to remove the back cover with it still installed, it could snap right in half.
During your repair, it can be helpful at times to lay the Steam Deck face-down in its case to protect the thumbsticks and prevent wobble.

Step 2

Use a T6 Torx driver to remove the eight 5.8 mm‑long screws securing the back cover.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Step 3

Insert an opening pick at an upward angle between the back cover and the front shell near one of the triggers.
If you can't insert your pick here, try along the top or bottom edges of the Steam Deck OLED before sliding it toward the handle.
Slide your pick along the edge of the handle to release the clips securing it to the front shell.

Step 4

Reinsert your pick and slide it along the top and bottom edges until the back cover feels loose.

Step 5

Grip the unclipped handle and pull it away from the front shell to release the remaining clips.
Remove the back cover.

Step 6

Grip the battery cable pull tab, located to the left of the battery.
Firmly pull the battery cable straight away from the motherboard shield (toward the battery) to disconnect it.
This bundled cable is fairly stiff. If you're having trouble, re-grip the pull tab close to the head of the connector and gently walk it side-to-side as you pull.
If the cable pull-tab feels fragile or rips during this process, remove the motherboard shield and disconnect the cable using a spudger.
When the battery cable comes free, it might push up on the motherboard shield. Don't worry, as this won't damage anything.

The pull tab can come off revealing the wires. The instructions should be updated to reflect that catch.

Khurram Tariq -

Step 7

During disassembly, skip the next three steps.
During reassembly:
Reinstall the two 3.8 mm‑long screws to secure the motherboard shield.
Reconnect the interconnect cable ZIF connector.

Step 8

During reassembly:
Use the flat end of a spudger to slide the battery connector into its socket on the motherboard.

Step 9

During reassembly, follow this step and the above three steps to reconnect the battery.
Use your T6 Torx driver to remove the two 3.8 mm‑long screws securing the motherboard shield.
Lift the top edge of the motherboard shield up and flip it over the bottom edge of the frame, away from the motherboard.
Be careful not to crease or strain the cable.

Step 10

Use the point of a spudger to flip up the small locking flap on the right thumbstick ZIF connector.
The pull tab on this connector may be labeled TS.
Use tweezers or your fingers to grip the cable's pull tab and slide the connector straight out of its socket to disconnect it.

Step 11

Use a spudger to flip up the small white locking flap on the right button board interconnect cable ZIF connector.
The pull tab on this connector may be labeled C‑R.
Use tweezers or your fingers to grip the cable's pull tab and slide it straight out of its socket to disconnect it.
During reassembly, don't reconnect this cable yet. You'll reconnect it later.

Step 12

Flip up the small black locking flap on the right thumbstick cable ZIF connector.
The pull tabs on the remaining ZIF connectors in this procedure may be labeled DB.
Slide the connector straight out of its socket to disconnect it.

Step 13

Flip up the small locking flap on the button board cable ZIF connector, located in the bottom left corner.
Slide the connector straight out of its socket to disconnect it.

Step 14

Repeat the ZIF cable disconnection procedure for the remaining three ZIF connectors:
The touchpad cable
The touchpad board cable
You may need to lift this cable as you pull to free its arms.
The action buttons and menu button cable

Step 15

If you aren't replacing your button board, you can leave this cable connected and lay the board over the left side of the frame after you've removed the screws.
Be careful when disconnecting the haptics, as the cables and connector are very delicate. Pry only on the base of the white connector, and not on the cables or socket.
Insert the point of your spudger under the neck of the haptics cable connector.
Gently pry up to disconnect it.

Step 16

Use your T6 Torx driver to remove the four screws securing the right button board:
Two 5.9 mm‑long screws
One 3.8 mm‑long screw
One 4.9 mm‑long screw

Step 17

Insert the point of your spudger between the bottom left corner of the button board and the frame.
Pry up until you can grab the button board with your fingers.
Remove the button board.
During reassembly, make sure none of the six cables become trapped underneath the button board as you lay it into place.

Step 18

The right trigger is on your left-hand side when working on the Steam Deck OLED, as it's laying upside down.
The trigger clips into place on two pegs on the frame, which double as the hinge.
Place the flat end of a spudger onto the inside edge of the trigger's right clip.
Use your fingers to push the trigger toward the right as you wedge the spudger between the clip and the peg.
Use your spudger to pivot the trigger clip out, away, and up from the peg to unlatch it.
During reassembly, latch the left peg first. Once in place, push down on the trigger to latch the right peg, producing an audible "click" sound.
Check to make sure that the trigger spring is properly aligned. Test the trigger action before continuing reassembly.

Step 19

Use your T6 Torx driver to remove the three 5.9 mm‑long screws securing the right bumper assembly.

Step 20

Grip the right arm of the bumper assembly and lift it off the alignment pegs.
Slide the assembly to the right to clear the tab on the left edge of the frame.
Remove the assembly.
The action and menu buttons membrane might stay stuck to the underside of the bumper bracket. If so, remove it.
During reassembly, line up the bumper bracket with the alignment posts in the frame as you set it into place.

Step 21

The bumper connects to its bracket with a spring on the outside edge, an alignment post in the middle, and a clip on the inside edge.
Gently pull the inside arm of the bumper away from the bracket to free the clip securing it.
Remove the bumper.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Steam Deck OLED answers community for help.

Author

Clay Eickemeyer

Member since: 19/09/22

65196 Reputation

Steam Deck OLED Right Bumper Replacement

Introduction

Tools

Parts

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