Samsung Galaxy Note9 Display Assembly Replacement

Written By: Sam Omiotek

Comments: 41

Samsung Galaxy Note9 Display Assembly Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 3 hours

Introduction

Follow this guide to replace the display assembly on your Samsung Galaxy Note9.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Press in the bottom of the S-Pen until it clicks.
Release the S-Pen and it will self-eject.
Remove the S-Pen.

Step 2

Insert a SIM card eject tool straight into the hole in the SIM card tray.
Press to eject the SIM card tray.

Step 3

Remove the SIM card tray.
The SIM card will fall out of the tray easily.

Step 4

Power off your phone before beginning disassembly.
Use a hairdryer, a heatgun, or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the back of the phone for about a minute to soften the adhesive underneath.

If using an iOpener it will need to be fully heated and set on for at least 5 minutes. You’ll know the phone is hot enough when its almost too hot to touch.

Spencer Barron - 14/12/20

Just came here to say exactly that. The instructions should be amended to state that: "Get it fully hot and leave it there for at least three minutes solid."

Mister Fixer -

Step 5

Apply a suction handle to the back cover.
Lift with a suction handle to create a gap between the back cover and the frame of the phone.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
If the glass is badly cracked, cover it in packing tape to create a surface for the suction cup to adhere to.
If the adhesive won't budge, apply more heat, not excessive force. Too much force could break the glass.

It takes so much heat that it is concerning that damage might be caused to the internal parts. It is difficult to heat the glue, pull the case apart and insert the pick at same time. May need some more pointers to handle these situations first, to prevent possible damage. Also what about the glue that is heated and then cooled before opening? Does it run inside and cause greater adhesion after it cools? Another thing, the handling may cause the phone to turn back on while working to separate. Don't know that that is of concern.

Lou Smith -

Angle the pick up very slightly so the point goes up into the curve of the glass, not down towards the workings of the phone

Dean Lee -

Step 6

Note that there is more adhesive along the top edge and around the camera bezel than around the rest of the phone.
Cut carefully around the left edge near the fingerprint sensor or you risk damaging the ribbon cable inside.
If, at any point, the adhesive feels stubborn, apply more heat—not more force.

It's extremely easy to crack the back glass when nearing and rounding the corners. It's probably a good idea to soften the adhesive with heat as you go.

Aaron Peterson -

Step 5 is NOT "cut through the adhesive", that's steps 5-10. Step 5 is "Begin the careful process of cutting through the adhesive, starting at the right side where you already softened it. Proceed carefully, slowly, and warmly through the following steps."

Aaron Peterson - 08/01/23

These comments are spot-on. I never break a phone, and I cracked the back glass following the instructions without seeing these comments first. Heat the back much more than you think you need and go super, super slow.

Mister Fixer -

Step 7

Starting from the center, cut the adhesive up and down the right side with an opening pick.
Do not insert the pick more than halfway into the phone when cutting near the fingerprint sensor or cameras, or you risk damaging internal components.

Step 8

Be careful near the corner, as the glass is very weak. Apply more heat at any time if the adhesive becomes stuck.
Leave an opening pick in the upper-right corner.
Use another opening pick to cut the adhesive around the bottom-right corner.
Leave that opening pick in the phone.

There seems to be a lot of glue at the bottom, I broke the glass as I was cutting past the charging port - not sure if it was already fractured or just not enough heat (I used Sellotape so it didn't break up into pieces!)

I think LOTS of heat & patience is the key!

Be very careful around the corners and bottom (probably top too, but I didn't have a problem there). Make sure you've cut in far enough down the side first (go in about 1cm) but less round the corners and work in slowly.

Dean Lee -

Step 9

Use a heat gun or hair dryer or apply a heated iOpener to the left side of the rear panel for at three minutes to soften the adhesive underneath.

If using an iOpener it will need to be fully heated and set on for at least 5 minutes. You’ll know the phone is hot enough when its almost too hot to touch.

Spencer Barron - 14/12/20

Step 10

Be careful near the corners, as the glass is weakest there.
Insert an opening pick into the lower-left corner of the rear panel.
Using another opening pick, cut the adhesive along the left edge of the rear panel.
Don't insert an opening pick in more than halfway on the left edge near the fingerprint sensor or you may damage the ribbon cable inside.
It is fine if opening picks fall out as the back cover becomes separated.

Step 11

Using the inserted opening pick, carefully cut the adhesive around the upper-left corner of the rear panel.
Finally, cut the last of the adhesive along the top of the phone.
Use an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to apply more heat as needed where you are cutting the adhesive.

Be VERY patient as you slide the opening picks around the periphery of the glass, and use heat very liberally. Make sure the smooth, clear aspect of the iOpener is against the glass, not the rough black portion.

David Gitlitz -

Step 12

Separate the right side of the rear cover first.
Tilt the cover up along the left edge to expose the fingerprint sensor ribbon cable.
Do not pull out the fingerprint sensor ribbon cable yet.
The fingerprint sensor cover might stay attached to the midframe.

Thought I'd done something wrong here as there wasn't a cable attached to the back - the fingerprint reader hadn't come away with the back, but had stayed with the phone.

Dean Lee -

Exactly the same experience. Made life a little easier.

Mister Fixer -

Happened to me as well.

David Gitlitz -

Step 13

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the fingerprint sensor ribbon cable up and out of its socket.

On my phone the fingerprint sensor did not come off with the back cover but stayed on the phone!

Dean Lee -

Step 14

Remove the back cover.
To re-install the back cover:
Use tweezers to peel away any remaining adhesive from the phone's chassis. Then clean the adhesion areas with high concentration isopropyl alcohol (at least 90%) and a lint-free cloth to prep the surface for the new adhesive. You don't have to clear out adhesive down to the plastic but larger pieces should be removed.
Turn on your phone and test your repair before installing new adhesive and resealing the phone.
Carefully apply the new adhesive to the back cover, then line up one edge of the glass against the phone chassis and firmly press the glass into the phone.

I am installing a new backplate (this is my first repair; I was CERTAIN that I would crack the back glass, and I was NOT wrong) but I’m not sure how tweezers are meant to remove gooey adhesive! I simply used the blue plastic pry tool as a scraper and gently rolled up the goo. Maybe the glue is different because I have a refurbished phone? That may also explain why I had so much trouble with Step 1. Hope that this helps!

Christopher Yarlott -

Step 15

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the nine 4 mm screws securing the upper midframe.

There are two more screws on the bottom right corner of the little side frame that the Qi plate is glued to. I took those out as it put less stress on it.

John Stone -

It helps to hold the fine tweezers with your non-dominant hand to support the screw heads and ensure they come straight out; you can also gently lift as you unscrew.

David Gitlitz -

Step 16

Insert the tip of a spudger into the upper-left corner of the upper midframe.
Pry the upper midframe out of the phone.
The upper midframe snaps into and out of place.

Step 17

Peel the wireless charging coil off the battery starting with the left side.
The adhesive is weak but you can use an opening pick to cut it if necessary.
During reassembly start by snapping the midframe into place first before adhering the wireless charging coil.

Be careful not to tear it as it comes off - especially the side bits that stick out a bit

Dean Lee -

Step 18

Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the orange ribbon cable connecting the battery to the motherboard.

Step 19

Remove the nine 4 mm Phillips screws from the plastic cover next to the battery.

Step 20

Remove the plastic cover next to the battery.

Step 21

Insert the tip of a spudger into the top of the lower midframe.
Pry the lower midframe out from the phone.
The lower midframe snaps into and out of place.
Remove the lower midframe.

Step 22

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the front camera connector straight up and out of its socket.
Use tweezers to remove the front camera.

Step 23

Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the iris scanner from the motherboard.
Use tweezers to remove the iris scanner.

Step 24

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the front sensor connector out of its socket.

Step 25

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the display cable from the motherboard.

Step 26

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the touchscreen cable from the motherboard.

Step 27

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the charging assembly from the motherboard.

These screws are supposed to be 3.2 mm because when I took out these screws, they were shorter than the ones you take out first

Lizmaris Morales -

Step 28

Remove the three 4 mm Phillips screws securing the motherboard.
There are triangles next to the holes indicating the motherboard screw locations.

Step 29

Use a spudger to gently lift the motherbord from the upper-left corner.
Carefully remove the motherboard.
Move the ribbon cables out of the way as necessary. Do not pull the motherboard out if it becomes snagged on any cables.

Step 30

Remove the 3.2 mm Phillips screw from the headphone jack.

Step 31

Insert the tip of a spudger into the notch next to the headphone jack contact points.
Pry the contact board straight up to free it from the adhesive underneath.
If the contact board is difficult to separate, apply a drop of 90% isopropyl alcohol into the notch and allow it to soften the adhesive. Then, try again.

Can still use the heat gun for contact board but keep heat moving around, don't hover directly on top.

iQikFix -

Step 32

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the headphone jack assembly.

Note: If replacing screen with frame, transfer the headphone jack assembly to new frame at this time.

iQikFix -

Step 33

Remove the two 3.2 mm Phillips screws from the charging assembly.

Please add a step that mentions the round item labeled “D40”. It, similarly to the headphone jack, is tediously removed by adding some isopropyl alcohol to the groove above/under it and then sliding a spudger or tweezers into the same groove. Slowly wiggle it with your prod while the isopropyl alcohol does its job.

Brody Wood -

This is necessary If your new display assembly does not include the vibration motor (labeled D40). The pointed end of a spudger may not be small enough to get leverage under it, so use angled tweezers if you have to.

Sam Omiotek -

Step 34

Use a spudger to lift the microphone out from its housing.

Step 35

Use an opening pick to separate the charging assembly from the phone.

Step 36

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the charging assembly.

As noted above in Step 32, transfer the charging assembly to new screen with frame at this time. Also make sure the microphone sits flush in the housing.

iQikFix -

Step 37

Apply a few drops of 90% isopropyl alcohol into the battery well along the bottom and upper-left corner of the battery.
Wait a couple of minutes for the alcohol to soften the adhesive under the battery.
Hold the phone at various angles to help the alcohol flow under the battery.

Step 38

Apply a suction cup to the battery.
Lift the battery straight up until there is a gap large enough to insert the opening pick.
Insert an opening pick underneath the bottom edge of the battery and twist to loosen the battery adhesive.
Remove the battery.
It may take multiple attempts to get the suction cup to adhere. Apply is as close to the center of the battery as possible and avoid the white sticker at the bottom of the battery.
Do not bend the battery.

Step 39

Use a pair of tweezers to peel back the adhesive-backed copper foil.
Stop peeling once you reach the sensor array.
Be careful not to tear the foil.

Definitely need patience when removing foil, don't rush this step.

iQikFix -

Step 40

Use a spudger to lift the left side of the front sensor array and separate the adhesive the rest of the way.
The front sensor array is still connected to a ribbon cable that is adhered to the phone. Do not try to remove the front sensor array yet or you will damage it.

Step 41

Carefully slide an opening pick under the front sensor array ribbon cable to cut the adhesive underneath.

Step 42

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the front sensor array.
Only the display assembly remains.
Before you begin reassembly, compare the new display assembly with the original and transfer any remaining components if necessary.

Buen día, excelente tutorial...sigan con ese mismo interes...Bendiciones para todo el grupo.

Desde Santa Cruz, Bolivia.

esistema17 -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

Author

Sam Omiotek

Member since: 25/02/19

72005 Reputation

15 comments

Make sure you transfer over the vibration motor if the new frame does not have it… didn’t realize my replacement didn’t have it until I put the glass back on :/

Adam Graman - 19/02/21

Thank you for pointing this out! I almost missed it! I wish this guide showed how to put it back together instead of just saying “okay now do it again but backwards.” Anyway, I appreciate this comment right here haha.

Jeremiah Furlow - 24/04/21

Is it just me or is this guide not complete?

ben allen - 22/04/21

The guide assumes that you have a new display unit containing all the parts that are left after the last step (display, front glass, screen, cooling system, vibration motor and so on.)

Nils Hennings -

Since replacement parts vary from seller to seller, you’ll have to compare yours to the original and transfer any remaining components. This guide was written for the display assembly that we were selling at the time.

When transferring other components such as the vibration motor just be sure to use the same methods as with similar components. Work slowly, always use heat or ≥90% isopropyl alcohol to soften adhesives, and search the internet for more information as necessary.

Sam Omiotek - 29/06/21

But what about the actual replacement of the display screen? The instructions stops at removing the front sensor array

Jason Khim -

Because it is an OLED screen the entire assembly has to be replaced. If the guide is followed and the part was purchased from iFixit, once the front sensor array is removed you can begin working backwards transferring all components into the new display assembly. Unfortunately replacing the screen from the front is not possible. If you purchase the part from somewhere other than iFixit you may need to transfer additional components.

Sam Omiotek -

The guide does not explain how to glue the front and back together once everything is put back together.

Do I have to buy a specific glue or does the new part have pre-applied glue and do I need heat to activate?

Thanks

Paul Greenberg -

The new part most likely won’t have pre-installed adhesive. This generic perimeter adhesive guide for Samsung Galaxy phones will help!

Sam Omiotek -

Any suggestions on getting the suction cup to stick to the battery? I cant seem to get mine to hold.

Braydon Bell -

I just flooded the battery space with rubbing alcohol and let it sit for a minute. Then the battery more or less lifted out. If you still think you need it a smaller suction cup or even dental floss to run under the battery may help.

Scott Cress -

It was very informative and clear. Thank You.

Saud Abu-Harbesh -

Hello! I would ask, but the display is the same for version 128 or 512gb, right?

Matteo Serino -

I have never had a digitizer not power on. Is it just a bad digitizer or what? I also brought a new battery.

robert zenon -

The gasket and adhesive kit came with a great set of components. However it's not clear when and where they are put. Would be nice if iFixit had notes about these for reassembly.

Scott Cress -