Introduction

Use this guide to replace the battery in your Nintendo Switch OLED.

For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your Switch. This reduces the risk of fire if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

The Switch OLED uses JIS screws, but you can use a Phillips screwdriver in a pinch. Be very careful not to strip the screws. iFixit's Phillips bits are designed to be cross-compatible with JIS-style screws.

Note: When you remove the shield plate, you’ll need to replace the thermal compound between the plate and the heatsink. Since normal thermal paste isn’t designed to bridge large gaps, the closest replacement is K5 Pro viscous thermal paste.

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    • Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off.

    • Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.

    • While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.

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    • Continue sliding the Joy Con upward until it's completely removed from the console.

    • Repeat this same process for the other Joy Con.

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    • Use a Phillips driver, or a JIS driver, to remove the 2 mm-long screw securing the top of the rear case to the frame.

    • To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly, and try another JIS or Phillips driver if the screws won't come out.

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    • Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 2 mm-long screws securing the bottom of the rear case to the frame.

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    • Use a Phillips driver to remove the 3.8 mm screw securing the right Joy-Con sensor rail to the rear case.

    • To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly and try another JIS 000 or PH 000 driver if the screws won't come out.

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    • Use a Phillips driver to remove the 3.8 mm screw securing the left Joy-Con sensor rail to the rear case.

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    • Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device.

    • If there's a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.

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    • Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the two 4.3 mm screws securing the rear case to the frame.

    Before the next step remove any game cards in the console

    Zach -

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    • Lift the rear case up from the top of the device and remove it.

    • If you're having trouble removing the case, use an opening pick to pry up the plastic clips.

    Just a heads up that, even after removing the screws, the rear plate is still heavily clipped in place. I recommend using an opening pick or opening tool to carefully pry it up starting at the top and working your way down the sides. Once you get to the bottom, the speaker grilles are a little tricky. They're attached to the rear plate, but they can get stuck easily as you're removing the back plate.

    Craig Lloyd -

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to separate a corner of the tape from the shield plate.

    Don't remove the antenna tape or the wires from the tape! The antennae can come off with the large metal shield plate anyways, so why remove them separately?? Extra UNNECESSARY WORK!! Just unscrew the antennae modules themselves, and pop out the antenna wires from the mainboard. Then they will lift with the large metal plate. (Steps 10, 11, 15, 16 are unnecessary, just remove the screws only that hold them down)

    hubbabubbahubbabubba9 -

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    • Use tweezers, or your fingers, to peel back and remove the tape.

    • Store the tape in a clean space for reinstallation.

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    • Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull up and disconnect the primary Wi-Fi antenna's coaxial cable.

    • During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. One at a time, hold each connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat end of a spudger. The connector should snap into place.

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    • Use tweezers, or your fingers, to reroute the primary antenna's coaxial cable out of its slots in the shield plate.

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    • Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 4.4 mm screws securing the primary Wi-Fi antenna to the shield plate.

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    • Insert an opening pick between the primary Wi-Fi antenna and the shield plate.

    • Pry up with the pick to separate the primary Wi-Fi antenna from the shield plate.

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    • Remove the primary Wi-Fi antenna.

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    • Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull up and disconnect the secondary Wi-Fi antenna's coaxial cable.

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    • Use the point of a spudger to reroute the secondary Wi-Fi antenna's coaxial cable from its slot in the frame.

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    • Use a Phillips driver to remove the 4.4 mm screw securing the secondary Wi-Fi antenna to the shield plate.

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    • Insert an opening pick between the secondary Wi-Fi antenna and the shield plate.

    • Pry up with the pick to separate the secondary Wi-Fi antenna from the shield plate.

    • Don't attempt to completely remove the antenna yet, as its coaxial cable is still routed through the frame.

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    • Use the point of a spudger to reroute the secondary Wi-Fi antenna's coaxial cable out of its slot in the frame.

    • Remove the secondary Wi-Fi antenna.

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    • Use a Phillips driver to remove the six 4.4 mm screws securing the shield plate to the frame.

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    • Use your fingers to lift the top of the shield plate up and away from the frame.

    • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.

    • Remove the shield plate.

    • A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. Whenever the shield plate is removed, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate compound, such as K5 Pro, during reassembly.

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    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery.

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    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover or high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol inside the battery well along the top edge to weaken the adhesive.

    • Make sure not to puncture the battery with the isopropyl alcohol's applicator.

    • If you are using adhesive remover, follow these preparation steps first.

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    • Tilt the top edge of the device upward to allow the isopropyl alcohol to work its way underneath the battery.

    • Hold for 1-2 minutes to allow time for the isopropyl alcohol to weaken the adhesive.

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    • Insert an opening pick into the gap between the battery and the wall of the battery well.

    • Carefully dig the tip of the opening pick underneath the battery and slide it along the edge to begin slicing the adhesive.

    • Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.

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    • Leave the opening pick in place and apply a few more drops of adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol inside the battery well.

    • Tilt the top edge of the device upward and wait 1-2 minutes for the isopropyl alcohol to weaken the adhesive.

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    • Continue sliding the opening pick deeper along the top edge of the battery, slicing more of the adhesive underneath.

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    • Once there's enough room, insert a plastic card underneath the battery and slowly pry the battery up.

    • Apply more isopropyl alcohol if you have difficulty prying.

    • Be careful not to bend the battery as you pry.

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    • Pry up with the plastic card to completely separate the battery's adhesive.

    • Remove the battery.

    • Use adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth to clean up any remaining adhesive left behind in the battery well before you install the new battery.

    • If your new battery does not come with pre-installed adhesive, follow this guide to install pre-cut adhesive on the bottom of the battery.

    • Do not reuse the battery after it has been removed, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery after completing this guide.

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch OLED Answers community for help.

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Member since: 16/01/22

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