Nintendo Switch LCD and Digitizer Separation

Written By: Craig Lloyd
  • Comments: 15
Nintendo Switch LCD and Digitizer Separation

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

27

Time Required

No estimate

Introduction

This is a prerequisite-only guide! This guide is part of another procedure and is not meant to be used alone.

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    • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.

    How to replace locking flap incase it flys off

    Jonathan D'Costa -

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    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

    I’ve torn a few ribbon cables in my time. Use your tweezers to nudge the tabs on either side of the ribbon cable and “walk” the ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector - slowly!! This should help prevent any tears in the ribbon cable when using tweezers.

    nin10doh -

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    • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the smaller LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.

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    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

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    • Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the screen for around two minutes to to help soften the adhesive.

    • A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

    I used a hair dryer because I don’t own a microwave and didn’t like the idea of boiling the iOpener - which apparently doesn’t work that well anyway. For reference, the hair dryer I used was a CONAIR 1875 Styler. I also used an infrared thermometer, which you’ll absolutely need if you’re not going to use the iOpener. You need the infrared thermometer because you must know when to stop heating the digitizer. There are delicate components nestled in the top of the Switch’s faceplate - right where you’ll be putting the heat. To begin:

    1. Prepare your work area by clearing the surrounding surfaces of anything plastic, metal, or electronic - surrounding areas are sure to reach temps of up to 110 °F (43 °C).

    2. Get something non-conductive like a small cardboard box to rest the disassembled Switch on top of. This will help to target the heat on the specified area, depending on which step you’re on.

    nin10doh -

    3. Grab a piece of cardboard and cut it to the shape of the Switch screen, or around the same size. You will need this cardboard to protect the LCD and delicate internals.

    4. Set your infrared thermometer to the side or somewhere close to the spot where you’ll be heating the digitizer.

    5. Grab your hairdryer and set that to the side as well.

    6. Position the Switch on the cardboard box so that you are ready to begin heating the first side of the digitizer as specified in Step 28. I found that it was easier to have the heated side facing me, so that I can hold the hairdryer more comfortably.

    7. Begin heating the bottom of the digitizer, starting on the lowest setting of your hairdryer. You’ll want to hold the hairdryer just close enough that you have about three or so inches between the heat and the Switch itself. Heating the digitizer will take some time, so do not expect the temperature to rise rapidly. A rapid rise in temperature can damage sensitive internal components, even with the cardboard piece in place.

    nin10doh -

    8. After 1 min 30 sec, check the digitizer temperature and make sure that the surface temperature (the opaque black border, not the actual screen) registers at 130 °F (54 °C) or higher. Continue heating on Low until a temperature of 130 °F (54 °C) or higher is reached.

    9. When a temperature of 130 °F (54 °C) or higher has been reached, raise the hairdryer another two to three inches from the digitizer. Switch your hairdryer heat setting to High ( or Med, for three-temp hairdryers) and continue heating until a temperature of 161 °F (71 °C) has been reached. Check the temperature every 2 secs to ensure even, consistent heating. Once a temperature of 161 °F (71 °C) has been reached, do not heat the digitizer any further. Doing so could damage the LCD, internal antennas, or faceplate.

    10. Repeat steps 6 thru 9 alongside the guide (Steps 28 thru 38) to complete the digitizer adhesive softening process.

    Good luck! If this causes anyone any problems, reply here and I’ll try to respond as quickly as possible.

    nin10doh -

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    • Apply a suction cup to the bottom-left corner of the screen.

    • Pull up on the suction up with strong, steady force to create a gap.

    • Depending on the age of your device, this may be difficult. If you have trouble, apply more heat and try again.

    • Insert the point of an opening pick into the gap, making sure to only insert the pick about 5 mm.

    Used a heat gun at 3/4 power for TWO 2-min bursts. The remainder of the sides each took a single 2-min burst.

    Jaxon Lee -

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    • Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

    • Leave the pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from re-adhering to the frame.

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    • Insert a second opening pick into the gap to the left of the first pick.

    • Slide the opening pick back towards the left side of the device.

    • Leave the opening pick inserted.

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    • Heat the left edge of the screen for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.

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    • Continue sliding the opening pick around the bottom-left corner to slice the adhesive.

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    • Continue sliding the opening pick along the left edge of the screen to slice to adhesive.

    make sure to follow exactly which side it says to do... i just sliced straight through the digitizer cable doing this ^^" whoops

    qu in n -

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    • Heat the top edge of the screen for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.

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    • Continue sliding the opening pick around the top-left corner of the screen to slice the adhesive.

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    • Continue sliding the opening pick along the top edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

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    • Heat the right edge of the screen for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.

    • Place the flat end of a spudger into the gap along the left edge of the screen.

    • Carefully and slowly lift the left edge of the screen, opening it like a book.

    My digitizer separated from the lcd screen during this step. Wasn’t a problem. Just something to be aware of

    Jaxon Lee -

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    • Lift the right edge of the screen straight off the device, threading the ribbon cables through the frame as you do so.

    • Take care not to snag any of the ribbon cables on the frame as you remove the screen.

    • You can reuse the screen adhesive if it is still sticky. Otherwise, replace the adhesive with double-sided tape such as Tesa tape.

    What kind of glue is required to re-assembly the screen?

    Deedend 77 -

    only thing missing. I am scraping the old adhesive off and trying to re-use

    Jaxon Lee -

    UPDATE: So, I was able to peel off the re-apply the old adhesive. It seems pretty secure, but we’ll see. Otherwise, this step needs an additional detail about what type of adhesive would be ideal to finish this.

    Jaxon Lee -

    Hi Jaxon!

    Thanks for the suggestion! I added an extra bullet for the adhesive.

    Arthur Shi -

    thank you for the help

    Cifiboy -

    How many mm wide Tesa tape should I purchase?

    Keishin Tamaki -

    Does anyone know where to find a replacement for the clear adhesive? I successfully completed the repair but the digitizer keeps separating from the screen.

    Digital Queen -

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    • Heat the top edge of the screen assembly for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive holding the LCD panel to the digitizer.

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    • Turn the screen assembly over.

    • Insert an opening pick in between the LCD panel and the digitizer at the top-left corner.

    • It doesn't matter how deep you insert the opening pick, but about 5 mm is enough to slice through all the adhesive.

    • You can slightly bend the digitizer to create a wider gap, but take care not to bend it too far to cause damage to the digitizer if you're reusing it.

    • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the screen assembly to slice the adhesive.

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    • Continue sliding the opening pick along the top edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

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    • Heat the left edge of the screen assembly for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.

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    • Insert and slide the opening pick along the left edge of the screen assembly to slice the adhesive.

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    • Continue sliding the opening pick around the bottom-left corner of the screen assembly to slice the adhesive.

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    • Heat the bottom edge of the screen assembly for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.

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    • Continue sliding the opening pick along the bottom edge to slice the adhesive.

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    • Heat the right edge of the screen assembly for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.

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    • Insert the flat end of a spudger in between the LCD panel and the digitizer along the left edge of the screen assembly.

    • Carefully and slowly lift up the left side of the LCD panel, opening it like a book.

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    • Continue lifting the LCD panel away from the digitizer to separate the two components.

    • The LCD ribbon cable is slightly adhered to the digitizer. If it doesn't remove easily, apply more heat to that area and try again.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

Craig Lloyd

Member since: 10/02/16

35240 Reputation

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