Introduction

Use this guide to replace one or all of the USB-C ports in your MacBook Pro 14" 2023.

For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your MacBook. This reduces the risk of fire if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

You'll need replacement adhesive in order to complete this repair.

Some photos in this guide are from a different model and may contain slight visual discrepancies, but they won't affect the guide procedure.

  1. sAvCLYXqUkq3CpsT
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    • Completely power off and unplug your MacBook Pro before you start. Close the screen and flip the entire laptop upside-down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove eight screws securing the lower case:

    • Four 9.3 mm screws

    • Four 5 mm screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

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    • Press a suction handle into place near the front edge of the lower case, between the screw holes.

    • Pull up on the suction handle to create a small gap under the lower case.

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    • Insert an opening pick into the gap you just created.

    • Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and then halfway up the side of the MacBook Pro.

    • This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.

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    • Repeat the previous step on the other side, using an opening pick to to release the second clip.

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    • Sliding clips along the back edge of the MacBook further secure the lower case. Separating these clips may require a lot of force—consider using gloves to protect your hands from the sharp edges of the lower case.

    • Firmly pull the lower case away from the back edge, one corner at a time, to disengage the sliding clips.

    • Keep the lower case flat to the MacBook. Don't pull upward until it's completely separated.

  6. Opome2xEF244Sbik
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    • Remove the lower case.

    • To reinstall the lower case:

    • Lay it down and align the sliding clips with the back edge of the MacBook. Press down on the lower case and slide it toward the back edge to engage the clips.

    • When one side is engaged, it may push the other out of alignment. Check both sides as you push.

    • Once the back corners of the lower case are secured and flush with the frame, press down along the middle of the lower case to engage the four remaining clips.

    • You'll hear and feel each clip snap into place.

  7. SIIw4KNqNJat1yBq
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    • Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector on the logic board.

    Not strictly necessary to remove this end of the cable, as the other end is also disconnected later. However, it does get it out of the way.

    Patrick -

  8. V4EqB5aHmr63xI1v
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    • Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.

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    • Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board.

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    • While your MacBook uses some Torx Plus screws, standard Torx bits work. Make sure to apply constant, downward force to avoid stripping.

    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.1 mm‑long 3IP Torx Plus screws securing the trackpad cable bracket to the logic board.

    Sorry but this is not correct Apple procedure.

    There is power running through the device still whilst you are unscrewing this plate/bracket and disconnecting the trackpad if you do it this way. This is why Apple put the small flex cable next to this, free to reach before touching anything else.

    You must disconnect the battery flex cable next to the trackpad connector before you touch anything else.

    Thanks

    Brendan Roberts -

    Is that not what steps 7-9 are doing? You cannot actually access the battery connector until you remove this cable as it's underneath. Which battery flex cable are you referring to?

    maccentric -

  11. WKgCgHbgW1ChnLeO
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    • Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the trackpad cable bracket.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the trackpad cable's press connector secured to the logic board.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

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    • The trackpad cable is lightly adhered to the frame.

    • Peel the trackpad cable away from the device, making sure to separate the adhesive.

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    • Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector under the large pancake screw.

  15. YeVALkOj2MDGfUAD
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    • Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.

  16. CPVNHwGjCq5DHYlh
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    • Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket on the battery board.

    Ich hab dieses Datenkabel zerstört. Ist das der Grund warum es nicht mehr lädt?
    Welches Kabel bräuchte ich denn? Das hier Item # IF464-018-1?
    MacBook Pro 14" (A2442, A2779) and 16" (2021 A2485) Battery Daughter Board Cable

    Ray -

  17. pZApKfPHIxQlREsA
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    • The battery board data cable is lightly adhered to the device.

    • Slide blunt nose tweezers under areas with adhesive to separate the cable from the device.

    • Remove the battery board data cable.

    Removing is easy. We cant reinsert the battery data cable connector. It wont push in properly. Any helpful solution???

    Paul Smith -

  18. FUOLA5NLVP3IPFZn
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.8 mm 5IP Torx Plus wide-head screw securing the battery power connector.

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    • Use the flat end of your spudger to lift the battery connector away from the battery board, disconnecting the battery.

    • Lift the connector high enough that it doesn't accidentally make contact during the repair, but no more than 45 degrees to prevent damaging its hinge.

    • For added safety, place a barrier, such as a piece of a playing card, between the connector and board.

    I would place a piece of card stock (business card) taped to the battery cells so the contact can’t be made.

    Dan -

  20. mMZ5rxjcvUWQkEXG
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    • Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the three 2.1 mm screws securing the antenna board bracket and coaxial cable cover to the frame.

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    • Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the cover on top of the antenna bar's coaxial cables.

  22. rKLLcQuUVYwLqFuC
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    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna bar's coaxial cable.

    • Repeat for the two other cables.

    • During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. Hold each connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat end of a spudger. The connector should snap into place.

  23. wJqiVVv1y44wM1DA
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    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 2.1 mm screws securing the screen cable covers.

    These are not T5 screws (that'd be the cable cover above these two), but T3 screws.

    Sander -

  24. fUyVg6qQaZZuWrTm
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    • Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the two screen cable covers from the logic board.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the right-most screen cable press connectors secured to the logic board.

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    • Repeat the previous disconnection process for the remaining press connector at the top left of the logic board.

    • Don't pry against the surface-mounted components near the press connector.

  27. XUsHDd5PItgiwqGc
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    • Peel back any tape covering the microphone cable connector.

  28. huLPTQof2QdYhlKh
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    • Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the microphone cable.

  29. I1HqZiiRFBn2rZ1o
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    • Disconnect the microphone cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board.

  30. DfUSWdodKxMhCVId
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    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the nine 2.1 mm screws securing the right cable covers to the frame:

  31. WRNwTIPxZrQcDWsi
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    • Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the five right cable covers.

    You state "five", but only show FOUR in your highlights.

    elijah dorman -

  32. PuBlx3Mc4JkFjxd4
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    • Peel back any tape covering the right speaker cable.

  33. jEGkrTWfKARiRRH4
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    • Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the right speaker cable.

  34. 4mSQoxo1LZmJfuIs
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    • Disconnect the right speaker cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board.

  35. ZFEOF2DXdBdSPKoM
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    • Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the headphone jack's press connector.

  36. 6bWFLbL4EDV535eV
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    • Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the right USB-C ports' press connectors.

  37. ZRn6lsUEM6BVIWno
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    • Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the MagSafe port's press connector.

  38. Z665sDMVtgnSGbvR
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    • Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the lid angle sensor's press connector.

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    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four screws securing the left cable covers to the frame:

    • Two 2 mm screws

    • Two 2.1 mm screw

  40. 2L6ZGTVkC3qSkDq1
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    • Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the two left cable covers.

    Habe das obere Kabel hier leider zerstört. Könnt Ihr mir sagen, für was das ist und ob ich meinen Mac weiter benutzen kann/darf/soll?

    Ray -

  41. uFy4sA52LPiyebnF
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    • Peel back any tape covering the left speaker cable.

  42. ukFeo2cqAT5mLUEM
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    • Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the left speaker cable.

  43. XhuKlr42ALKwF3ud
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    • Disconnect the left speaker cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board.

  44. Fpb3PS2qBjPOGbiZ
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    • Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the left USB-C port's press connector.

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    • Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the Touch ID sensor's press connector near the top left of the device.

    • The Touch ID sensor cable is adhered to the frame. If the adhesive doesn't separate when you disconnect the press connector, slide an opening pick under the cable to separate it.

    The TouchID cable is incredibly delicate and prone to tearing; use caution when bending it with tools.

    Sander -

  46. Iroju51ubUMqWlwJ
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  47. MlXLTEjakHYHAjRr
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    • Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connectors for the keyboard cables.

  48. fMxtDssND5PWchMC
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    • Disconnect the keyboard and keyboard backlight cables by sliding them out from their sockets on the logic board.

  49. CVSrQJ3TTL1jHKIF
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    • Peel back any tape covering the right fan cable connector.

  50. tFyrq1a6oT2RYkMV
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    • Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the right fan cable.

  51. DXsNNDWDCIe5hMio
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    • Disconnect the right fan cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board.

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    • The right fan cable is lightly adhered to the logic board.

    • Pull the fan cable away from the logic board with tweezers to separate the adhesive.

    • The fan cables are incredibly delicate and prone to tearing; use caution when bending them with tools.

  53. eoRafE6PLsaHWMTW
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    • Repeat the previous disconnection and reposition procedure for the left fan.

  54. gAkHbL1oHrGiZVHu
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    • Remove the four black screw covers from the logic board.

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    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 12 screws securing the logic board:

    • Four 3.6 mm screws

    • Two 4.5 mm screws

    • Two 5.2 mm screws

    • Two 3.8 mm screws

    • Two 3.9 mm screw

    Length of the "green" screws please

    Luc Chandonnet -

    Hi Luc.

    Thank you for the comment! I have adjusted the guide accordingly.

    Alex Diaz-Kokaisl -

    Erase the reference to the blue screw next to the SD card slot - it is not T5-3.9 like its opposite counterpart, it is T6-5.7mm as shown in the next panel

    Dave C -

    Left Blue screw is T6 on my system

    elijah dorman -

  56. 5PdH2BB4HpA1ZsWN
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    • Use a T6 Torx driver to remove the three screws securing the logic board:

    • Two 4.7 mm screws

    • One 5.7 mm screw

    Orange Screw is already referenced above as the left Blue screw in step 56.

    elijah dorman -

  57. guNSXsWIRmk1FcVM
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    • Insert a spudger between the right side of the logic board and the frame.

    • Pry up with the spudger to release the logic board from its clips.

    There's a missing step to pry up the adhesive rubber bits holding the heatsinks to the fan.

    elijah dorman -

  58. AIbNeE1pUjTPLsSA
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    • Insert a spudger between the bottom of the logic board and the frame.

    • Pry up with the spudger to release the logic board from its clips.

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    • Gently lift up the logic board by its right side to release it from its alignment pegs.

    • If it feels like it's not coming out, check that all the cables are disconnected.

    • Pull the logic board away from the left side of the device to separate the HDMI and SDXC ports from their slots in the frame.

    • Remove the logic board.

  60. fkNRHEcDAACYZrQL
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    • During reassembly, perform the following:

    • Make sure all 17 connectors are above the logic board before securing it back into the frame.

    • If you're having trouble positioning the connectors, use tape to keep them out of the way.

    • Hold the rubber spacers out of the way so the fins can drop into their recesses.

    • When reinstalling the logic board, insert the left side first to reposition the HMDI and SDXC ports.

    • Use your fingers to slightly compress the HDMI port to fit it into its recess. Otherwise, the logic board won't sit correctly.

    I count 2 connectors on the left, 6 on the top (counting all three antennas as one), 6 on the right, 2 on the bottom, and 2 in the center (for each fan) giving a total of 18

    elijah dorman -

  61. HMntNZEdAHDP5rYx
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  62. W4JFFo2AAbisyYPQ
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    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the two 3.7 mm screws securing the left USB-C port.

  63. WBUBfTtOSesU2Zca
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    • Use your fingers to remove the USB-C port.

  64. iDOHLQAMFELu2WZx
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    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the four 3.7 mm screws securing the right USB-C ports:

    • Top port

    • Bottom port

    • If you're replacing a single port, only remove the screws for the corresponding port.

  65. OGVqTjIKQYqpehbW
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    • Use your fingers to remove the USB-C ports.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our MacBook Pro 14" 2023 Answers community for help.

Chayton Ritter

Member since: 21/08/20

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