Macbook Pro 14" 2023 Screen Replacement

Written By: Chayton Ritter

Comments: 12

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

30 minutes - 1 hour

Introduction

Use this guide to replace the screen in your MacBook Pro 14" 2023.

WARNING: While you can physically replace the screen by following this guide, replacement screens are known to display visual artifacts. Currently, the only available fix is Apple's System Configuration tool (which is only available through Apple when purchasing a genuine replacement screen). Alternatively, two soldered chips can be transferred between the screen controller boards.

For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your MacBook. This reduces the risk of fire if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

Note: Replacing your screen disables True Tone functionality.

Some photos in this guide are from a different model and may contain slight visual discrepancies, but they won't affect the guide procedure.

Tools

Parts

MacBook Pro 14" (A2442, A2779) and 16" (2021 A2485) Display Cable Brackets

Step 1

Completely power off and unplug your MacBook Pro before you start. Close the screen and flip the entire laptop upside-down.
Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove eight screws securing the lower case:
Four 9.3 mm screws
Four 5 mm screws
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

Step 2

Press a suction handle into place near the front edge of the lower case, between the screw holes.
Pull up on the suction handle to create a small gap under the lower case.

Step 3

Insert an opening pick into the gap you just created.
Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and then halfway up the side of the MacBook Pro.
This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.

Step 4

Repeat the previous step on the other side, using an opening pick to to release the second clip.

Step 5

Sliding clips along the back edge of the MacBook further secure the lower case. Separating these clips may require a lot of force—consider using gloves to protect your hands from the sharp edges of the lower case.
Firmly pull the lower case away from the back edge, one corner at a time, to disengage the sliding clips.
Keep the lower case flat to the MacBook. Don't pull upward until it's completely separated.

Step 6

Remove the lower case.
To reinstall the lower case:
Lay it down and align the sliding clips with the back edge of the MacBook. Press down on the lower case and slide it toward the back edge to engage the clips.
When one side is engaged, it may push the other out of alignment. Check both sides as you push.
Once the back corners of the lower case are secured and flush with the frame, press down along the middle of the lower case to engage the four remaining clips.
You'll hear and feel each clip snap into place.

Step 7

Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector on the logic board.

Not strictly necessary to remove this end of the cable, as the other end is also disconnected later. However, it does get it out of the way.

Patrick -

Step 8

Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.

Step 9

Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board.

Step 10

While your MacBook uses some Torx Plus screws, standard Torx bits work. Make sure to apply constant, downward force to avoid stripping.
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.1 mm‑long 3IP Torx Plus screws securing the trackpad cable bracket to the logic board.

Sorry but this is not correct Apple procedure.

There is power running through the device still whilst you are unscrewing this plate/bracket and disconnecting the trackpad if you do it this way. This is why Apple put the small flex cable next to this, free to reach before touching anything else.

You must disconnect the battery flex cable next to the trackpad connector before you touch anything else.

Thanks

Brendan Roberts -

Is that not what steps 7-9 are doing? You cannot actually access the battery connector until you remove this cable as it's underneath. Which battery flex cable are you referring to?

maccentric -

Step 11

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the trackpad cable bracket.

Step 12

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the trackpad cable's press connector secured to the logic board.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 13

The trackpad cable is lightly adhered to the frame.
Peel the trackpad cable away from the device, making sure to separate the adhesive.

Step 14

Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector under the large pancake screw.

Step 15

Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.

Step 16

Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket on the battery board.

Ich hab dieses Datenkabel zerstört. Ist das der Grund warum es nicht mehr lädt?
Welches Kabel bräuchte ich denn? Das hier Item # IF464-018-1?
MacBook Pro 14" (A2442, A2779) and 16" (2021 A2485) Battery Daughter Board Cable

Ray -

Step 17

The battery board data cable is lightly adhered to the device.
Slide blunt nose tweezers under areas with adhesive to separate the cable from the device.
Remove the battery board data cable.

Removing is easy. We cant reinsert the battery data cable connector. It wont push in properly. Any helpful solution???

Paul Smith -

Step 18

Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.8 mm 5IP Torx Plus wide-head screw securing the battery power connector.

Step 19

Use the flat end of your spudger to lift the battery connector away from the battery board, disconnecting the battery.
Lift the connector high enough that it doesn't accidentally make contact during the repair, but no more than 45 degrees to prevent damaging its hinge.
For added safety, place a barrier, such as a piece of a playing card, between the connector and board.

I would place a piece of card stock (business card) taped to the battery cells so the contact can’t be made.

Dan -

Step 20

Use your T3 Torx driver to remove the three 2.1 mm-long 3IP Torx Plus screws securing the antenna connector cover and bracket.

Step 21

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the cover on top of the antenna bar's coaxial cables.

Step 22

Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna bar's coaxial cable.
Repeat for the two other cables.
During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. One at a time, hold each connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat end of a spudger. The connector should snap into place.

Step 23

Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the six 5IP Torx Plus screws securing the antenna bar to the frame:
Two 7.5 mm screws
Four 3.2 mm screws
Use a P2 Pentalobe driver to remove the nine 1.5 mm screws securing the antenna bar to the frame.
These screws strip very easily; use constant downward pressure and work slowly when you loosen these.

Step 24

Insert the tip of a spudger between the antenna bar and the frame.
Pry up with the spudger to separate the antenna bar from the frame.

Step 25

Pull the antenna bar straight up and out of the frame to remove it.

Step 26

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 2.1 mm 3IP Torx Plus screws securing the screen cable covers.

Step 27

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the two screen cable covers from the logic board.

Step 28

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two right-most screen cable press connectors secured to the logic board.

Step 29

Repeat the previous step for the left-most press connector.

Step 30

Pull up on the back of the screen cable bracket to release the clips securing it to the frame.
Remove the screen cable bracket.
Repeat for the other screen cable bracket.

During disassembly, I found it easiest to disengage the bottom/connector side of the cable bracket clips first, then pivot up and pull away from the frame of the laptop.
If reassembling with a new display, the ribbon cables can be very stiff on the connector end. I found it easiest to first install the press connectors (step 28), then use the flat end of a spudger to gently coax the ribbon cables around the curve on the top edge of the screen cable bracket buffers until I could engage the top clips of the cable bracket. While holding the top edge of the cable bracket, I used the flat end of a spudger to gently push the connector end of the ribbon cables down into the gap, then engaged the clips on the bottom edge of the cable bracket.

Patrick - 05/03/24

Step 31

If the two screen cable bracket buffers are removed alongside the brackets, then skip this step.
Pull the two screen cable bracket buffers straight up and out of the frame to remove them.

Step 32

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.1 mm 3IP Torx Plus screws securing the lid angle sensor cover near the right hinge.

Step 33

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the lid angle sensor cover.

Step 34

Use the flat of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the lid angle sensor's press connector.

Step 35

Use your T5 Torx driver to remove the two 2.5 mm‑long 5IP Torx Plus screws securing each hinge cover (four screws in total).

Step 36

Use tweezers to pull the hinge covers horizontally away from the hinge to separate it from the frame.
Remove the hinge covers.

Step 37

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove two 5.2 mm screws from each hinge (four screws total).
Each hinge has a third screw, which you should leave in place for now.

I found that these were very, very tight, and a T9 worked better for me than the T8.

ischmal001 -

The official repair guide recommends opening the lid of the laptop and setting the laptop keyboard side down on the edge of a table with the display hanging over the edge, then removing these screws.

Patrick - 05/03/24

Step 38

If you plan to re-use your screen, open it and apply a piece of tape to the glass directly above each hinge. This helps protect the glass from getting scratched in the following three steps.
Fully open the screen and stand your MacBook Pro up on one side.

Step 39

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the two remaining 5.2 mm screws (one from each hinge).
Remove the topmost screw last, using one hand to steady both halves of the MacBook Pro to make sure they don't separate and fall over unexpectedly.

Loosening these two final screws while the computer was flat made this step much easier. When I initially got to the last screw, I literally couldn't get it to budge while the machine was on its side.

ischmal001 - 09/08/23

Step 40

Keep a firm grip on both the screen and main body of the MacBook Pro. Either half can fall unexpectedly during this step.
Push both halves of the MacBook Pro together so that the hinges can be lifted clear of their recesses in the chassis.
Push the main body of the MacBook Pro away from you while pulling the screen toward you to separate it.

Step 41

Remove the screen.

Step 42

During reassembly, follow these instructions to align your screen hinges:
If you have blue threadlocker, apply a drop to each screw's threads to prevent them from loosening over time.
Install the hinge screws without fully tightening them. Center the hinges and check for gaps or rubbing on either side.
Fully tighten the hinge screws.
If your screen clicks or snaps when it's opened or closed, loosen the screws and realign the screen.

Hallo,

ist jemanden bekannt dass nach Display Austausch oberhalb des Display Karos zu sehen ist?

Muss dieser Display nach Tausch programmiert werden?

Vielen Dank für Beiträge!

Senol Biyikli -

ja, ohne alte MCU oder Apple Software funktioniert es nicht wirklich sauber, nur mit Pixelfehlern. Ich mag solche "anleitungen" - nie wirklich selbst probiert, aber so viele schöne Bilder, yay.

RipperDoc -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our MacBook Pro 14" 2023 Answers community for help.

Author

Chayton Ritter

Member since: 21/08/20

17428 Reputation

Macbook Pro 14" 2023 Screen Replacement

Introduction

Tools

Parts

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