MacBook Pro 16" 2023 MagSafe Port Replacement

Written By: Clay Eickemeyer

Comments: 0

MacBook Pro 16" 2023 MagSafe Port Replacement

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

Use this guide to replace the MagSafe port in your MacBook Pro 16" 2023.

If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

Some photos in this guide are of the previous model MacBook Pro and may contain slight visual discrepancies, but they won't affect the procedure.

Tools

Step 1

Allow your MacBook's battery to drain below 10% before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged during the repair.
Fully shut down your MacBook, close the lid, and flip it over. Keep the lid closed until you've physically disconnected the battery.
Unplug the MagSafe cable and any accessories connected to your MacBook.

Step 2

Use a P5 pentalobe driver to remove the eight screws securing the lower case:
Four 9.1 mm‑long screws
Four 6 mm‑long screws
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Step 3

Apply a suction handle to the center of the lower case's front edge.
Pull up on the suction handle to create a gap between the lower case and the frame.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.

Step 4

Slide your opening pick around the bottom right corner and up the right edge of the lower case.
If your pick gets stuck at the cutout, use your fingers to lift the lower case up slightly to allow your pick to slide underneath.
Slide your pick until it reaches the middle of the cutout, or until the rightmost clip stops it from sliding.
Twist your pick to release the two right clips.
You'll hear and feel a pop when each of the two clips releases.

Step 5

Slide your opening pick around the bottom left corner and up the left edge of the lower case.
If your pick gets stuck at the cutout, pry the lower case up slightly to allow your pick to slide underneath.
Slide your pick until it reaches the middle of the cutout, or until the leftmost clip stops it from sliding.
Twist your pick to release the left two clips.
You'll hear and feel a pop when each of the two clips releases.

Step 6

Sliding clips along the back edge of the MacBook further secure the lower case. Separating these clips may require a lot of force—consider using gloves to protect your hands from the sharp edges of the lower case.
Firmly pull the lower case away from the back edge, one corner at a time, to disengage the sliding clips.
Keep the lower case flat to the MacBook. Don't pull upward until it's completely separated.

Step 7

Remove the lower case.
To reinstall the lower case:
Lay it down and align the sliding clips with the back edge of the MacBook. Press down on the lower case and slide it toward the back edge to engage the clips.
When one side is engaged, it may push the other out of alignment. Check both sides as you push.
Once the back corners of the lower case are secured and flush with the frame, press down along the middle of the lower case to engage the four remaining clips.
You'll hear and feel each clip snap into place.

Step 8

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.1 mm screws securing the trackpad cable bracket.
Remove the bracket.

Step 9

Use the flat end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the trackpad cable press connector from the logic board.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down in the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Step 10

The trackpad cable is lightly adhered to the battery board.
Peel the trackpad cable from the battery board.
Move the cable over the front edge of the MacBook.
Be careful not to crease the cable.

Step 11

Peel back the tape covering the battery data cable connector on the logic board.

Step 12

Use the point of a spudger or a clean fingernail to flip up the small locking flap on the battery data cable ZIF connector.

Step 13

Slide one arm of your blunt nose tweezers under the battery data cable.
Grip the cable just below the head of the connector.
Slide the connector straight out of its socket.

Step 14

Peel back the tape covering the battery data cable connector on the battery board.

Step 15

Use the point of your spudger or a clean fingernail to flip up the small locking flap on the battery data cable ZIF connector.
Use blunt nose tweezers to grab the battery data cable just under the head of the connector and slide it straight out of its socket.

Step 16

The battery data cable is adhered to the battery board and logic board.
Peel the cable from the battery board and the logic board.
Remove the cable.

Step 17

Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.9 mm pancake screw securing the battery connector.

Step 18

Use the flat end of your spudger to lift the battery connector away from the battery board, disconnecting the battery.
Lift the connector high enough that it doesn't accidentally make contact during the repair, but no more than 45 degrees to prevent damaging its hinge.
For added safety, place a barrier, such as a piece of a playing card, between the connector and board.

Step 19

Use your T3 Torx driver to remove the three 2.1 mm screws securing the antenna cable cover and bracket.
Remove the antenna cable cover.

Step 20

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the three antenna cables from the logic board.
Pry only on the metal heads of the connectors. Avoid prying on the cables themselves.
To reconnect antenna cables like these, hold each one in place over its socket and press down with the flat end of your spudger. The connector will snap into place.

Step 21

Use your T3 Torx driver to remove the four 2.1 mm screws securing the display cable covers.
Remove both display cable covers.

Step 22

Use your spudger to pry up and disconnect all three display press connectors from the top of the logic board.

Step 23

Use a P2 pentalobe driver to remove the nine 1.5 mm screws securing the antenna bar.
Due to their small size, these screws strip very easily. Make sure your driver is in good condition. Keep it vertical and apply constant downward pressure as you loosen the screws.
During reassembly, don't overtighten these screws—ensure that they're threading in properly, then tighten only until they're snug.
Use your T5 Torx driver to remove the six remaining screws securing the antenna bar:
Four 3 mm screws
Two 7.5 mm screws

Step 24

Pull the antenna bar straight up and out of the frame to remove it.

Step 25

Use your T3 Torx driver to remove the 11 screws securing the five cable covers to the right side of the logic board:
Nine 2.1 mm screws
One 2 mm screw
One 3.5 mm screw

Step 26

Remove all five cable covers from the right side of the logic board.

Step 27

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the six press connectors from the right side of the logic board.

Step 28

Use blunt nose tweezers to peel back the tape covering the microphone connector.

Step 29

Use the point of your spudger or a clean fingernail to flip up the small locking flap on the microphone ZIF connector.
Use blunt nose tweezers or your fingers to grip the cable tape and slide the connector straight out of its socket.

Step 30

Use your T3 Torx driver to remove the six screws securing the three left cable covers to the logic board:
Four 2.1 mm screws
One 2 mm screw
One 3.5 mm screw

Step 31

Remove all three cable covers from the left side of the logic board.
During reassembly, orient the middle cable cover for the headphone jack with its flat edge toward the bottom of the MacBook.

Step 32

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect all three press connectors from the left side of the logic board.

Step 33

Use blunt nose tweezers to peel back the tape covering the keyboard and keyboard backlight connectors near the battery connector.

Step 34

Use the point of your spudger or a clean fingernail to flip up the small locking flap on the keyboard backlight connector.
This connector is the smaller of the two keyboard connectors.
Use an opening tool or two fingernails to flip up the locking flap on the keyboard connector.
This connector is the wider of the two keyboard connectors and may break if a narrow tool is used.

Step 35

Grab the tape on the heads of the keyboard and keyboard backlight cables and pull their connectors straight out of their sockets.

Step 36

Use blunt nose tweezers or your fingers to peel back the tape covering the right fan connector.

Step 37

Use the point of a spudger or a clean fingernail to flip up the small locking flap on the right fan ZIF connector.
Use blunt nose tweezers or your fingers to grip the cable tape and slide the connector straight out of its socket.

Step 38

The fan cables are very delicate. Be careful not to crease or tear them with your tools.
Peel up the right fan cable from the logic board.

Step 39

Use blunt nose tweezers or your fingers to peel back the tape covering the left fan connector.

Step 40

Use the point of a spudger or a clean fingernail to flip up the small locking flap on the left fan ZIF connector.
Use blunt nose tweezers or your fingers to grip the cable tape and slide the connector straight out of its socket.

Step 41

Peel up the left fan cable from the logic board.

Step 42

Use your T5 Torx driver to remove the ten screws securing the logic board to the frame:
Six 3.8 mm screws surrounding the fans
Four 4.6 mm screws along the bottom edge
Use a 4 mm hex driver to remove the two 6 mm-long standoff screws securing the bottom corners of the logic board to the frame.
During reassembly, first thread these bolts in with your fingers, then tighten them with your driver.
Use a T6 Torx driver to remove the two 6 mm screws securing the heatsink and logic board to the frame.

Step 43

Insert the flat end of your spudger between the right side of the logic board and the frame.
Keep your spudger away from any cables or connectors on the logic board.
Gently pry the right edge of the logic board from its recess in the frame.
The logic board may catch on the press connectors. Hold the connectors out of the way as you lift the board, if necessary.

Step 44

Insert your spudger between the bottom edge of the logic board and the frame.
Gently pry up the logic board until you can grip it with your fingers.
Don't pry against the battery or any connectors. Use protrusions in the frame for leverage.
Hold the logic board up with one hand for the next two steps, as it tends to fall back into its recess.

Step 45

The HDMI port, SDXC port, and the fins along the top of the heatsink hold the logic board tight to the frame.
Insert your spudger between the middle of the top edge of the logic board and the frame.
Gently pry up until the fins along the top of the heatsink begin to lift from their recess in the frame.
The heatsink fins may catch on the left rubber gasket. Hold the gasket out of the way as you lift the heatsink, if necessary.
Insert your spudger at the top left edge of the logic board and pry it up over the left fan.

Step 46

Lift the right edge of the logic board and pull it to the right to free the HDMI and SDXC ports from their recesses.
Guide the logic board out from underneath the display cables and the antenna cable bundle along the top edge.
Remove the logic board.
During reassembly, insert the left edge of the logic board first to make sure the ports go into their recesses.

Step 47

During reassembly, note the following:
Make sure all 17 cables are above the logic board as you place it in the frame.
Use the point of your spudger to pull cables out from under the logic board if they slip underneath.
Hold the rubber spacers out of the way so the fins can drop into their recesses.
Align the heatsink by sliding the heatsink fins between the rubber spacers on each side of the MacBook.

Step 48

Use your T3 Torx driver to loosen the two set screws holding the MagSafe port tight to the frame.
These set screws don't thread into the MagSafe port—they only need to be loosened.
Use your T5 Torx driver to remove the two 2.6 mm screws securing the MagSafe port.