MacBook Pro 16" 2023 Logic Board and Heatsink Removal

Fully shut down your MacBook, close the lid, and flip it over. Keep the lid closed until you've physically disconnected the battery.

Unplug the MagSafe cable and any accessories connected to your MacBook.

Use a P5 pentalobe driver to remove the eight screws securing the lower case:

Four 9.1 mm‑long screws

Four 6 mm‑long screws

Apply a suction handle to the center of the lower case's front edge.

Pull up on the suction handle to create a gap between the lower case and the frame.

Insert an opening pick into the gap.

Slide your opening pick around the bottom right corner and up the right edge of the lower case.

Slide your pick until it reaches the middle of the cutout, or until the rightmost clip stops it from sliding.

Twist your pick to release the two right clips.

Slide your opening pick around the bottom left corner and up the left edge of the lower case.

Slide your pick until it reaches the middle of the cutout, or until the leftmost clip stops it from sliding.

Twist your pick to release the left two clips.

Firmly pull the lower case away from the back edge, one corner at a time, to disengage the sliding clips.

Remove the lower case.

Lay it down and align the sliding clips with the back edge of the MacBook. Press down on the lower case and slide it toward the back edge to engage the clips.

Once the back corners of the lower case are secured and flush with the frame, press down along the middle of the lower case to engage the four remaining clips.

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.1 mm screws securing the trackpad cable bracket.

Remove the bracket.

Use the flat end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the trackpad cable press connector from the logic board.

Peel the trackpad cable from the battery board.

Move the cable over the front edge of the MacBook.

Peel back the tape covering the battery data cable connector on the logic board.

Use the point of a spudger or a clean fingernail to flip up the small locking flap on the battery data cable ZIF connector.

Slide one arm of your blunt nose tweezers under the battery data cable.

Grip the cable just below the head of the connector.

Slide the connector straight out of its socket.

Peel back the tape covering the battery data cable connector on the battery board.

Use the point of your spudger or a clean fingernail to flip up the small locking flap on the battery data cable ZIF connector.

Use blunt nose tweezers to grab the battery data cable just under the head of the connector and slide it straight out of its socket.

Peel the cable from the battery board and the logic board.

Remove the cable.

Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.9 mm pancake screw securing the battery connector.

Use the flat end of your spudger to lift the battery connector away from the battery board, disconnecting the battery.

Use your T3 Torx driver to remove the three 2.1 mm screws securing the antenna cable cover and bracket.

Remove the antenna cable cover.

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the three antenna cables from the logic board.

Use your T3 Torx driver to remove the four 2.1 mm screws securing the display cable covers.

Remove both display cable covers.

Use your spudger to pry up and disconnect all three display press connectors from the top of the logic board.

Use a P2 pentalobe driver to remove the nine 1.5 mm screws securing the antenna bar.

Use your T5 Torx driver to remove the six remaining screws securing the antenna bar:

Four 3 mm screws

Two 7.5 mm screws

Pull the antenna bar straight up and out of the frame to remove it.

Use your T3 Torx driver to remove the 11 screws securing the five cable covers to the right side of the logic board:

Nine 2.1 mm screws

One 2 mm screw

One 3.5 mm screw

Remove all five cable covers from the right side of the logic board.

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the six press connectors from the right side of the logic board.

Use blunt nose tweezers to peel back the tape covering the microphone connector.

Use the point of your spudger or a clean fingernail to flip up the small locking flap on the microphone ZIF connector.

Use blunt nose tweezers or your fingers to grip the cable tape and slide the connector straight out of its socket.

Use your T3 Torx driver to remove the six screws securing the three left cable covers to the logic board:

Four 2.1 mm screws

One 2 mm screw

One 3.5 mm screw

Remove all three cable covers from the left side of the logic board.

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect all three press connectors from the left side of the logic board.

Use blunt nose tweezers to peel back the tape covering the keyboard and keyboard backlight connectors near the battery connector.

Use the point of your spudger or a clean fingernail to flip up the small locking flap on the keyboard backlight connector.

Use an opening tool or two fingernails to flip up the locking flap on the keyboard connector.

Grab the tape on the heads of the keyboard and keyboard backlight cables and pull their connectors straight out of their sockets.

Use blunt nose tweezers or your fingers to peel back the tape covering the right fan connector.

Use the point of a spudger or a clean fingernail to flip up the small locking flap on the right fan ZIF connector.

Use blunt nose tweezers or your fingers to grip the cable tape and slide the connector straight out of its socket.

Peel up the right fan cable from the logic board.

Use blunt nose tweezers or your fingers to peel back the tape covering the left fan connector.

Use the point of a spudger or a clean fingernail to flip up the small locking flap on the left fan ZIF connector.

Use blunt nose tweezers or your fingers to grip the cable tape and slide the connector straight out of its socket.

Peel up the left fan cable from the logic board.

Use your T5 Torx driver to remove the ten screws securing the logic board to the frame:

Six 3.8 mm screws surrounding the fans

Four 4.6 mm screws along the bottom edge

Use a 4 mm hex driver to remove the two 6 mm-long standoff screws securing the bottom corners of the logic board to the frame.

Use a T6 Torx driver to remove the two 6 mm screws securing the heatsink and logic board to the frame.

Insert the flat end of your spudger between the right side of the logic board and the frame.

Gently pry the right edge of the logic board from its recess in the frame.

Insert your spudger between the bottom edge of the logic board and the frame.

Gently pry up the logic board until you can grip it with your fingers.

Hold the logic board up with one hand for the next two steps, as it tends to fall back into its recess.

Insert your spudger between the middle of the top edge of the logic board and the frame.

Gently pry up until the fins along the top of the heatsink begin to lift from their recess in the frame.

Insert your spudger at the top left edge of the logic board and pry it up over the left fan.

Lift the right edge of the logic board and pull it to the right to free the HDMI and SDXC ports from their recesses.

Guide the logic board out from underneath the display cables and the antenna cable bundle along the top edge.

Remove the logic board.

Make sure all 17 cables are above the logic board as you place it in the frame.

Hold the rubber spacers out of the way so the fins can drop into their recesses.

Align the heatsink by sliding the heatsink fins between the rubber spacers on each side of the MacBook.