MacBook Pro 16" 2021 Speaker Assembly Replacement

Written By: Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Comments: 23

MacBook Pro 16" 2021 Speaker Assembly Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

Use this guide to replace one or both speakers in your MacBook Pro 16" 2021.

Replacing the speakers requires you to remove the logic board and fans. Removing the battery is optional but recommended to prevent bending or puncturing the battery cells adjacent to the speakers.

For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your MacBook. This reduces the risk of fire if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

You'll need replacement adhesive in order to complete this repair.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Completely power off and unplug your MacBook Pro before you start. Close the display and flip the entire laptop upside-down.
Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove eight screws securing the lower case:
Four 9.1 mm screws
Four 5 mm screws
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

Step 2

Press a suction handle into place near the front edge of the lower case, between the screw holes.
Pull up on the suction handle to create a small gap under the lower case.

Step 3

Insert an opening pick into the gap you just created.
Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and then halfway up the side of the MacBook Pro.
This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.

Step 4

Repeat the previous step on the other side, using an opening pick to to release the second clip.

Terrifying, don't be afraid, give it a good pull, the description above is exactly right.

Scott -

Step 5

Pull firmly to slide the lower case towards the front edge of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.
Pull first at one corner, then the other.
Pull to the side—not up.
This may require a lot of force.

Step 6

Remove the lower case.
To reinstall the lower case:
Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinge. Press down and slide the cover toward the hinge. It should stop sliding as the clips engage.
When the sliding clips are fully engaged and the lower case looks correctly aligned, press down firmly on the lower case to engage the four hidden clips underneath. You should feel and hear them snap into place.

Step 7

Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector on the logic board.

Step 8

Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.

Step 9

Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board.

Step 10

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.1 mm‑long screws securing the trackpad cable bracket to the logic board.

Das sind T4 Schrauben bei mir

Ralf Schäfer -

Step 11

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the trackpad cable bracket.

Step 12

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the trackpad cable's press connector from the logic board.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 13

The trackpad cable is lightly adhered to the frame.
Peel the trackpad cable away from the device, making sure to separate the adhesive.

Step 14

Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector under the large pancake screw.

Step 15

Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.

Step 16

Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket on the battery board.

This is SO small - I used a very fine guitar pick to get it to release, none of my tools were small enough.

Scott -

Step 17

The battery board data cable is lightly adhered to the device.
Slide blunt nose tweezers under areas with adhesive to separate the cable from the device.
Remove the battery board data cable.

Step 18

Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.9 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.

Step 19

Use a spudger to lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.
Lift the connector high enough to keep it separated from its socket while you work. If it accidentally makes contact, it could damage your MacBook Pro.

is it possible to buy/replace this battery power connector? I broke mine on the logic board side and they are impossible to find. Ofc apple want $900 because the laptop is "modified" after replacing the keyboard :|

Thenon -

Step 20

Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the three 2.1 mm screws securing the antenna board bracket and coaxial cable cover to the frame.

Step 21

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the cover on top of the antenna bar's coaxial cables.

Step 22

Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna bar's coaxial cable.
Repeat for the two other cables.
During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. Hold each connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat end of a spudger. The connector should snap into place.

Step 23

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 2.1 mm screws securing the display cable covers.

It’s T4 not T5

notears -

Step 24

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the two display cable covers from the logic board.

Step 25

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two right-most display cable press connectors secured to the logic board.

Step 26

Repeat the previous disconnection process for the remaining press connector.

Step 27

Peel back any tape covering the microphone cable connector.

Step 28

Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the microphone cable.

Step 29

Disconnect the microphone cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board.

Step 30

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the 11 screws securing the right cable covers to the frame:
Nine 2.1 mm screws
One 2 mm screw
One 3.5 mm screw

They are all T4

notears -

They are T3 for me

Macrepair SF -

Step 31

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the five right cable covers.

Step 32

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the right speaker's press connector.

this is the left speaker

cleverlin -

Step 33

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the headphone jack's press connector.

Step 34

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the right USB-C ports' two press connectors.

Step 35

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the MagSafe port's press connector.

Step 36

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the lid angle sensor's press connector.

Step 37

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the six screws securing the left cable covers to the frame:
Four 2.1 mm screws
One 2 mm screw
One 3.6 mm screw

Step 38

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the three left cable covers.

Step 39

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the left speaker's press connector.

Step 40

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the left USB-C port's press connector.

Step 41

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the Touch ID sensor's press connector.

Step 42

Peel back any tape covering the keyboard and keyboard backlight cable connectors.

Step 43

Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the two ZIF connectors for the keyboard cables.

Step 44

Disconnect the keyboard and keyboard backlight cables by sliding them out from their sockets on the logic board.

Step 45

Peel back any tape covering the right fan cable connector.

Step 46

Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the right fan cable.

Step 47

Disconnect the right fan cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board.

Step 48

The right fan cable is lightly adhered to the logic board.
Pull the fan cable away from the logic board with tweezers to separate the adhesive.
The fan cables are incredibly delicate and prone to tearing; use caution when bending them with tools.

Step 49

Repeat the previous disconnection and reposition procedure for the left fan cable.

Step 50

Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the ten screws securing the logic board to the frame:
Six 3.8 mm screws
Four 4.6 mm screws
Use a 4 mm Hex driver to remove the two 6 mm screws securing the logic board to the frame.
Use a T6 Torx driver to remove the two 6 mm screws securing the heat sink to the logic board and frame.

The parts list for this step links to the wrong part on an external site. It threw me off and it took some investigation to determine that this kit has the appropriate 4mm hex bit that you need: Mako Driver Kit - 64 Precision Bits

Justin B -

Two green screws nearest hinges were 5/32"hex head on my machine, listed here as T6.

MotorMac -

Step 51

Insert a spudger between the right side of the logic board and the frame.
Pry up with the spudger to release the logic board from its clips.

No clips encountered on this A2485 logic board (thankfully), LB is very delicate.

MotorMac -

Step 52

Insert a spudger between the bottom of the logic board and the frame.
Pry up with the spudger to release the logic board from its clips.

Step 53

Gently lift up the logic board by its right side to completely release the clips.
If it feels like it's not coming out, check that all the cables are disconnected.
Pull the logic board away from the left side of the device to separate the HDMI and SDXC ports from their slots in the frame.
Remove the logic board.

Step 54

When reinstalling the logic board, insert the left side first to reposition the HMDI and SDXC ports.
Use your fingers to slightly compress the HDMI port to fit it into its recess. Otherwise, the logic board won't sit correctly.
Make sure all of the connectors are above the logic board before securing it back into the frame.
If you're having trouble positioning the connectors, use tape to keep them out of the way.

Step 55

Use a spudger to remove the four screw covers.

Do you need to put these back on after you remove them?

Jacob Leffler -

Step 56

Both of the fans' cables are lightly adhered to the frame.
Insert the tip of an opening pick between the fan's cable and the frame.
Slice with the pick along the edges of the cable to separate the adhesive.

Step 57

Use a Torx driver to remove the following screws securing the fans to the frame:
Four 3.3 mm T3 screws
Four 3 mm T5 screws

Step 58

Remove the fans.

Step 59

Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 13 screws securing the trackpad assembly:
Ten 5 mm screws
Three 5.8 mm screws
These screws all look similar—be careful not to mix them up.
Adding a little blue threadlocker to the screw threads during reassembly can help prevent the screws from working themselves loose over time.
Install the screws loosely at first, and then check the trackpad alignment before tightening them down.

Step 60

Swing the display open slightly, but keep the MacBook upside-down. The trackpad assembly should separate and lay flat on the display.
Carefully feed the trackpad's ribbon cable through its slot in the frame.

Step 61

As you remove the trackpad assembly, be very careful not to lose the nine small metal washers resting on the screw posts. (They will fly off and get lost with very little provocation.)
Remove the trackpad assembly.

Step 62

Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the two screws securing the battery board:
One 4.4 mm screw
One 3.8 mm screw

Step 63

There are 14 total stretch release adhesive strips that secure the battery to the frame:
There are eight adhesive strips that are accessed from the bottom of the device.
There are six more adhesive strips accessed from the trackpad's location on the frame.

Step 64

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to grasp the black pull-tab on one of the adhesive strips.

Step 65

Pull the strip out slowly and steadily at a low angle. Give it plenty of time to stretch and un-stick from under the battery.
If the adhesive strip breaks off, try to retrieve it using your fingers or blunt tweezers, and continue pulling—but do not pry under the battery.
Repeat the process for all 14 stretch release adhesive strips.

Can I change the speaker without removing the battery?

Johnny Shek -

Hi Johnny.

You don't need to remove the battery! However, be careful when prying along the edge of the speaker since you can puncture the battery. I will update the guide accordingly.

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl -

Step 66

Slide the battery out of the frame to remove it.

Step 67

Apply a few drops of isopropyl alcohol along the edges of the speaker.

Step 68

Tilt the right edge of the device upward to allow the isopropyl alcohol to work its way underneath the speaker.
Hold for 1–2 minutes to allow time for the isopropyl alcohol to weaken the adhesive.

Step 69

While you're waiting for the adhesive to loosen, note where the adhesive is located underneath the speaker.

Step 70

Insert the tip of an opening pick between the bottom of the speaker and the frame.

Step 71

Slide the pick upwards to separate the adhesive along the bottom length of the speaker.
Leave the pick in to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 72

Insert the tip of an opening pick between the top of the speaker and the frame.

Step 73

Pry up with the pick to completely separate the top adhesive.
Remove the speaker.
If you're still feeling resistance, slice along the perimeter of the speaker or apply a few more drops of isopropyl alcohol.
Repeat the loosening and separating process for the other speaker.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our MacBook Pro 16" 2021 Answers community for help.

Author

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Member since: 16/01/22

117875 Reputation

9 comments

I only needed to replace one of the speakers, so I ended up foregoing removing the second fan, and also did not remove the trackpad or battery cells. It did make it a bit more challenging to access the speaker, but letting the isoprop sit a while and do its thing and then gently apply some lever action here and there between the chassis and the speaker got it loose enough that I could then get the spudger in underneath. Just be very careful not to use the battery cells for leverage if you've still got them in place!

And to save someone else from a heart attack after reassembling and then finding it doesn't turn on - apparently one has to hook it up to power after having had the battery disconnected for it to be willing to power up!

Johny Mattsson -

I wonder why there's so much adhesive in the assembly. Replacing the speakers had to be this much work. I wanna try it, but I'm afraid I might damage it. I'm currently weighing over the price of sending it to apple service centers vs. me doing it myself.

wedzmer.munjilul -

I need to replace only the left speaker, maybe there are fewer steps to replace it, I mean not to touch the right side of laptop.

Oh my God!! 73 steps just to replace a speaker.

DK Carrgo Inc -

Why is it that the speakers are located nearer the trackpad edge and not the keyboard edge? The grilles are next to the keyboard.. how does that work?

ADTC - 31/10/23

The body of the Mac is a part of the acoustic design of the speaker. The sound is designed to come out at the grille, even if it originates somewhere else. This has been the case going back for a long time. Look at iMacs, for example, also

Jerdon Kiesman -

After you remove the adhesive from the battery. I am assuming upon reassembly that it will not have adhesive to stick to the case. is that ok? or will the battery move around due to that?

sorry for the basic question, i just want to make sure i know what to expect upon reassembly.

Jacob Leffler - 26/12/23

It is no way necessary to remove the battery to change the speaker. I only need to replace my left speaker which had a really loud crackling noise. I ordered the replace adhesive but I didn't end up using it.

I followed the guide until step 63. The adhesive on the battery kept breaking, and I forgot to buy isopropyl alcohol, so I ended up just tearing the speaker apart, prying it off the metal and removing the leftover adhesive from the speaker with some makeup wipes. DO NOT DO THIS as you will spray some white powder from inside the speaker EVERYWHERE.

My new speaker came with adhesive already installed, so I just pressed it into place and went backwards in the guide. If you can tilt your MacBook a little towards the side of the speaker you want to change, you can make sure that the isopropyl won't touch the battery and you can completely skip that part of the guide. Also not sure it's even necessary to remove the trackpad.

But I was successful. My first iFixit fix - thanks for the guide, guys!

Oliver -

The white powder is really hard to clean out, especially since it gets stuck in all kinds of crevices! This is all a lot easier if you have compressed air on hand.

lslqtz -

After checking a series of speaker repairs, I found that the treble part of the 2021-2023 16-inch speakers is pressed under the motherboard... This makes it necessary to remove the motherboard before replacing the speakers, which greatly increases the complexity of repairs.

lslqtz -