Introduction

Use this guide to replace the screen in your MacBook Pro 16" 2021.

For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your MacBook. This reduces the risk of fire if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

Note: Replacing your screen disables its True Tone functionality.

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    • Completely power off and unplug your MacBook Pro before you start. Close the display and flip the entire laptop upside-down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove eight screws securing the lower case:

    • Four 9.1 mm screws

    • Four 5 mm screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

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    • Press a suction handle into place near the front edge of the lower case, between the screw holes.

    • Pull up on the suction handle to create a small gap under the lower case.

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    • Insert an opening pick into the gap you just created.

    • Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and then halfway up the side of the MacBook Pro.

    • This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.

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    • Repeat the previous step on the other side, using an opening pick to to release the second clip.

    Terrifying, don't be afraid, give it a good pull, the description above is exactly right.

    Scott -

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    • Pull firmly to slide the lower case towards the front edge of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.

    • Pull first at one corner, then the other.

    • Pull to the side—not up.

    • This may require a lot of force.

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    • Remove the lower case.

    • To reinstall the lower case:

    • Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinge. Press down and slide the cover toward the hinge. It should stop sliding as the clips engage.

    • When the sliding clips are fully engaged and the lower case looks correctly aligned, press down firmly on the lower case to engage the four hidden clips underneath. You should feel and hear them snap into place.

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    • Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector on the logic board.

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    • Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.

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    • Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board.

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    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.1 mm‑long screws securing the trackpad cable bracket to the logic board.

    Das sind T4 Schrauben bei mir

    Ralf Schäfer -

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    • Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the trackpad cable bracket.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the trackpad cable's press connector from the logic board.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

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    • The trackpad cable is lightly adhered to the frame.

    • Peel the trackpad cable away from the device, making sure to separate the adhesive.

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    • Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector under the large pancake screw.

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    • Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.

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    • Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket on the battery board.

    This is SO small - I used a very fine guitar pick to get it to release, none of my tools were small enough.

    Scott -

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    • The battery board data cable is lightly adhered to the device.

    • Slide blunt nose tweezers under areas with adhesive to separate the cable from the device.

    • Remove the battery board data cable.

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    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.9 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.

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    • Use a spudger to lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.

    • Lift the connector high enough to keep it separated from its socket while you work. If it accidentally makes contact, it could damage your MacBook Pro.

    is it possible to buy/replace this battery power connector? I broke mine on the logic board side and they are impossible to find. Ofc apple want $900 because the laptop is "modified" after replacing the keyboard :|

    Thenon -

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    • Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the three 2.1 mm screws securing the antenna board bracket and coaxial cable cover to the frame.

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    • Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the cover on top of the antenna bar's coaxial cables.

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna bar's coaxial cable.

    • Repeat for the two other cables.

    • During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. One at a time, hold each connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat end of a spudger. The connector should snap into place.

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    • Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the six screws securing the antenna bar to the frame:

    • Two 7.5 mm screws

    • Four 3 mm screws

    • Use a P2 Pentalobe driver to remove the nine 1.5 mm screws securing the antenna bar to the frame.

    • These screws strip very easily; use constant downward pressure and work slowly when you loosen these.

    You should update all your guides that include these instructions. At least in my 2021 16" MBP, the screws described here as P2 Pentalobe ARE NOT P2 Pentalobe. P2 tools strip out the heads on these. Per the Apple manual, the actual drive type is 1 IPR. Wera makes one.

    felix4567 -

    On my 2021 16" the P2 worked great for these screws. No stripping. I'm sorry that happened to yours, Felix! Seems there might be some variants in the screws used.

    Quantum Mechanic -

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    • Insert the tip of a spudger between the antenna bar and the frame.

    • Pry up with the spudger to separate the antenna bar from the frame.

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    • Pull the antenna bar straight up and out of the frame to remove it.

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    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 2.1 mm screws securing the display cable covers.

    Hi there, the display cover screws use a T3 Torx not a T5

    Brandon McCulloch -

    Right you are Brandon! Thank you for the comment, and I have changed the guide accordingly.

    Alex Diaz-Kokaisl -

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    • Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the two display cable covers from the logic board.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the right-most display cable press connectors secured to the logic board.

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    • Repeat the previous step for the left-most press connector.

    This is not the same Mac as the pic above this one...???

    macmanaspen -

    When replacing, these are hard to connect while the cable brackets are attached, because the ribbons were too stiff. I skipped Step 30, did Step 29-26, then replaced the brackets.

    HeatherG -

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    • Pull up on the back of the display cable bracket to release the clips securing it to the frame.

    • Remove the display cable bracket.

    • Repeat for the other display cable bracket.

    Replacement screen might not come with these brackets, so be sure to save them from the original.

    HeatherG -

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    • If the two display cable bracket buffers are removed alongside the brackets, then skip this step.

    • Pull the two display cable bracket buffers straight up and out of the frame to remove them.

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    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.1 mm screws securing the lid angle sensor cover near the right hinge.

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    • Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the lid angle sensor cover.

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    • Use the flat of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the lid angle sensor's press connector.

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    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the four 2.5 mm screws securing the hinge covers (two screws on each side).

    What is the part number for these four screws?

    maxwelljconnelly -

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    • Use tweezers to pull the hinge covers horizontally away from the hinge to separate it from the frame.

    • Remove the hinge covers.

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    • Use a T8 Torx driver to remove two 6.4 mm screws from each hinge (four screws total).

    • Each hinge has a third screw, which you should leave in place for now.

    Both this guide and Apple's official repair manual state that these are T8 Torx screws... I found the T8 to bee too small for this, and instead used a T9, which fit perfectly.

    Nuka Kola -

    These screws were in very tight. The dinky driver that came with the replacement screen was insufficient. I had to use a more substantial bit driver. T8 worked fine for getting them loose. Then used the T9 that came with the replacement to get them all the way out.

    HeatherG -

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    • If you plan to re-use your screen, open it and apply a piece of tape to the glass directly above each hinge. This helps protect the glass from getting scratched in the following step.

    • Fully open the screen and stand your MacBook Pro up on one side.

    This should be step 1. A whole lot easier to put the tape on before taking the back off and undoing all the screws.

    HeatherG -

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    • Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the two remaining 6.4 mm screws (one from each hinge).

    • Remove the topmost screw last, using one hand to steady both halves of the MacBook Pro to make sure they don't separate and fall over unexpectedly.

    Both this guide and Apple's official repair manual state that these are T8 Torx screws... I found the T8 to bee too small for this, and instead used a T9, which fit perfectly.

    Nuka Kola -

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    • Keep a firm grip on both the screen and main body of the MacBook Pro. Either half can fall unexpectedly during this step.

    • Push both halves of the MacBook Pro together so that the hinges can be lifted clear of their recesses in the chassis.

    • Push the main body of the MacBook Pro away from you while pulling the screen toward you to separate it.

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    • Remove the screen.

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    • During reassembly, first install the hinge screws without tightening them fully. Then adjust the screen until it is correctly centered and aligned on each side. Finally, tighten the screws.

    • If your screen clicks or snaps upon opening, loosen the hinge screws and adjust the alignment. Make sure the screen doesn't sit too far forward, or it can catch on the body when opening and closing.

    • If desired, add a little blue threadlocker to the screw threads to prevent them from loosening over time.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our MacBook Pro 16" 2021 Answers community for help.

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Member since: 16/01/22

117875 Reputation

6 comments

Will I lose True Tone functionality even though I use an original Apple screen that has True Tone for the repair?

drgenius2003 -

If you don't break the entire lcd, but only some part of it, the True Tone will still there. I have mine fixed because of the liquid damage. I only replace the LCD, not the fullset with the case. I have some locals to help me fixed it for me. So I don't know the details how they repair my macbook.

They gave me 2 options,

first told me that I will lose true tone feature if I replace it with the fullset lcd,

the 2nd option, If I replace the LCD only, the true tone still there because they can move the "ic" to the lcd replacement. But the disadvantage for the 2nd option that I will got some defect on my screen not much and not really visible if I don't really look at it. Please note that this options is possible because I didn't break the entire lcd.

I chose the 2nd option and it's work. The defect caused by my liquid damage is not really visible

ghiffari -

I had purchased my part from Apple directly, so when I was doing the system configuration at the end, they asked for my order number and my serial number, which I assume were used on their end to mark parts as genuine and restore TrueTone. If you purchased your part from apple and have the order number, then restoring TrueTone should not be a problem. If you got a part from elsewhere, then I don't how the service people on Apple's end would identify it to be able to mark it as genuine in their system, and to associate it with your machine. Perhaps you can contact them and ask..

Nuka Kola -

I hope this has a video demonstration too

wedzmer.munjilul -

In case you are not aware: you can get a genuine replacement screen directly from Apple. This machine is one of the first to be a part of their new repair program. If you get the screen from them, you will not lose the TrueTone functionality! After completing the repair, you will have to contact heir online support, who will guide you through system configuration steps to mark installed parts as genuine, thereby restoring TrueTone. You will also be able to send in your old screen to get some money back. Cheers!

Nuka Kola -

I successfully did the repair with a used Screen unit that was pulled from another MacBook. I don’t see any issues with True Tone or the blurred behavior of the screen. Still I am facing an ALS001 error which relates to the ambient light sensor. This causes the fan to run on high speed. But the sensor seems to work… at least it is adjusting brightness of screen and keyboard backlight. Any ideas how to fix this?

Andreas -