MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2018 Logic board Replacement

Written By: HelloMacOS

Comments: 30

MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2018 Logic board Replacement

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

3 hours

Introduction

This guide will take you through the steps of replacing the logic board in your 2018/2019 (A1989)MacBook Pro.

Tools

Data Alliance Insertion Tools to Push/Pull Connector From Jack

Parts

MacBook Pro 13" Retina (Mid 2018) 2.3 GHz Logic Board with Paired Touch ID Sensor
MacBook Pro 13" Retina (Mid 2018) 2.7 GHz Logic Board with Paired Touch ID Sensor

Step 1

Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot. This command may not work on all Macs.
Power on your Mac and launch Terminal.
Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:
'sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
Press [return]. If prompted, enter your administrator password and press [return] again. Note: Your return key may also be labeled ⏎ or "enter."
You can now safely power down your Mac and open the bottom case, without it accidentally powering on.
When your repair is complete and your Mac is successfully reassembled, re-enable Auto Boot with the following command (typed into Terminal, as shown above):
sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

Step 2

Before proceeding, unplug and power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.
Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove the six screws securing the lower case:
Two 6.2 mm screws
Four 3.4 mm screws
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

Step 3

Apply a suction handle to the lower case near the front-center area of the MacBook Pro.
Lift the suction handle to create a slight gap between the lower case and the chassis.

Step 4

Insert one corner of an opening pick into the space between the lower case and the chassis.
Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and halfway up the side of the case.
This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case to the chassis. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.

Step 5

Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, sliding your opening pick under the lower case and up the side to pop the second clip free.

Step 6

Insert your opening pick once again under the front edge of the lower case, near one of the two centermost screw holes.
Give the pick a firm twist to pop free the third clip securing the lower case to the chassis.
Repeat this procedure near the other of the two centermost screw holes, popping the fourth clip free.

Step 7

Pull the lower case firmly towards the front of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.
Pull first at one corner, then the other.
Pull to the side—not up.
This can require a lot of force.

Step 8

Remove the lower case.

Why does this show a logic board with 2 fans? Mine has only 1 fan.

Cary B -

If yours only has one it’s the 2 thunderbolt model from another year or a MacBook Air of some sort:-)

HelloMacOS -

Step 9

Carefully peel up the large piece of tape covering the battery connector, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery.
Remove the tape.

Step 10

Gently peel back the small piece of tape covering the battery board data cable connector.
The tape is integrated into the ribbon cable and will not detach completely. Simply peel it back enough to access the connector.

Step 11

Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket.
Slide parallel to the logic board, in the direction of the cable.

Would be nice to mention the fact you have to lift up the tiny little plastic cable locking device before pulling this ribbon cable out.

Cary B -

Step 12

Fold the battery board data cable to the side and out of the way.

Step 13

Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.

Step 14

Use a spudger to gently lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.
Lift the connector high enough so that it stays separated from its socket. If it accidentally makes contact during the course of your repair, it could damage your MacBook Pro.

Step 15

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.8 mm screws securing the trackpad cable connector bracket.

use a t4 for and push down hard the screw on the right, it feels like apple just fcks with us for no reason other than to make it harder to fix these things

no flex - 31/01/23

Correct, T3 did not fit - had to use T4

Joe -

Step 16

Remove the trackpad cable connector bracket with a pair of tweezers.

Step 17

Use a spudger to disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable by gently prying its connector straight up from the logic board.

Step 18

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two screws.
Two T3 Torx Screws.

These are T3 on this machine I'm working on

Cool_Breeze -

Thanks for letting me know:-)

on the machine I was working on I was able to use a T4

But thanks again for letting me know

HelloMacOS -

t3 on left and t4 on right

no flex -

Step 19

Carefully peel back the black tape to reveal the ZIF connector.
Unlatch the ZIF connector by flicking the arm on the connector upwards and carefully remove the cable from the connector by sliding it out.
Repeat this process with the newly revealed connector.
The two screws that are outlined in yellow are not relevant to this step and are marked on the board itself. For this step, yellow corresponds to the yellow rectangle in the image.

the bottom one is very very difficult good luck

no flex -

make sure you click the piece up before moving the connector ribbons. you will hear a click.

no flex -

Step 20

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two screws.
Once the screw have been removed carefully remove the metal shield.
Under the metal shield there is a connector, carefully unplug it.

T3s on my A1989 here.

Christopher Moore -

Thanks for letting my me know:-)

Il change the size

When I was taking my one apart I was able to use a T4

Thanks for letting me know:-)

HelloMacOS -

sometimes t5 needed. ive used t3 and t4 and just before drilling another hole on a whim tried t5

no flex - 08/01/23

you are missing a picture of the connecter being unplugged (last step on this) step 20

no flex -

Step 21

Use a T4 Torx driver to remove the two screws.
Two T4 Torx screws.
Carefully remove the metal shield.
Under the metal shield you will find two connectors, carefully unclip them.
The second cable you will disconnect will be lightly adhered so carefully slide a plastic spudger under it and finally unplug it.
The adhered cable is very thin and delicate so don't rush it and take your time.

Bear in mind Touch ID is paired to the logic board so if you're replacing the Touch ID along with the logic board, be sure to check the power Touch ID button is mounted correctly and can be depressed before you put the logic board back in. Otherwise you may find yourself taking the board back out again. Don't ask me how I know.

Cool_Breeze -

can we get pictures of the two connectors under the shield

no flex -

The screws on mine appeared to be T3, not T4.

Snipezorz -

Step 22

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four screws.
4 T3 Torx screws.
Once the screws are removed carefully remove the metal shields.
Carefully unclip the connector.

Bei mir waren die beiden unteren markierten Schrauben nur mit einem Torx T4 lösbar. Außerdem sind sie länger als die oberen Schrauben, was beim Zusammenbau zu beachten war.

Gregor Tempel -

Step 23

Disconnect the cables carefully with a plastic pry tool.
Be gentle, if too much force is applied it can take the board connector up with it.

Step 24

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two screws.
Remove the metal shield carefully.
Carefully unplug the connector.

So where is the touchbar connector on the actual 13 inch Macbook Pro logic board?

Mine is the A2159. This logic is not the one that mine is.

Cary B -

Step 25

Carefully peel back the black tape to reveal the ZIF connector.
Unlatch the ZIF connector by flicking the arm on the connector upwards and carefully remove the cable from the connector by sliding it out.
Repeat this process with the newly revealed connector.

Step 26

Carefully peel back the black tape to reveal the ZIF connector.
Unlatch the ZIF connector by flicking the arm on the connector upwards and carefully remove the cable from the connector by sliding it out.

What is the exact name of this flex cable?

Kristof Kajtar -

Step 27

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two screws.
Once the screw have been removed carefully remove the metal shield.
Under the metal shield there is a connector, carefully unplug it.

Step 28

Use a T4 Torx driver to remove the screw.
T4 Torx screw.
Remove the metal shield carefully.
Carefully unplug the connector.
The two screws that are outlined in yellow are not relevant to this step and are marked on the board itself. For this step, yellow corresponds to the yellow rectangle in the image.

The screw on mine appeared to be T3, not T4.

Philcom -

Step 29

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.4mm screws securing the bracket.
Remove the bracket.

Duplicate of step 21 (although more detailed)

Shldnet -

Step 30

gently disconnect the audio socket flex cable with a spudger.
gently disconnect the Touch ID flex cable with a spudger.

Duplicate of step 21 (although more detailed)

Shldnet -

Step 31

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.4mm screws securing the display cable bracket.
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.2mm screws securing the display cable bracket.
Remove the bracket.
gently disconnect the flex cable with a spudger.

Step 32

Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the six 2.2mm screws securing the logic board.
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the three 1.9mm screws securing the logic board.
Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the two 2.3mm (3.7mm head) screws securing the heatsink.

Step 33

Carefully lift up the logic board, make sure none of the connectors are connected, also make sure they aren't caught on the logic board.

Step 34

Congratulations you have now removed your MacBook's LogicBoard

You are actually removing the coolers as well, not only the main logic board.

Shldnet -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

HelloMacOS

Member since: 24/01/22

25767 Reputation

6 comments

Hi!

If anyone needs any help just ask me:-)

Thanks:-)

HelloMacOS -

Bonjour, une fois la carte mère remplacer, comment remettre le nouveau numéro de série et bios à jour svp?

thu huc -

Salut, désolé pour mon mauvais français car j'utilise un traducteur pour cela :-) lorsque vous remplacez la carte logique/carte mère, la nouvelle carte aura son propre bios et son numéro de série, si vous voulez mettre à jour votre bios, il vous suffit de mettre à jour macOS

HelloMacOS -

At what point would you say you need thermal paste?

Kailee Kovach -

You need to replace thermal past every 4years or so…or at least that’s what I do to keep the machine running cool:-)

HelloMacOS -

What about the soft plastic rectangular, 3-sided pieces? Are those cooling guides, or just noise suppressors for the fans? Critical? I didn't see those addressed in your guide.

GamesForOne -