MacBook Air 13" Mid 2012 Microphone Replacement

Written By: Andrew Optimus Goldheart
  • Comments: 102
MacBook Air 13" Mid 2012 Microphone Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

10

Time Required

45 minutes - 2 hours

Introduction

Use this guide to replace a blown microphone.

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    • Before proceeding, power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove ten screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:

    • Two 9 mm screws

    • Eight 2.6 mm screws

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison -

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer -

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m -

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew -

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith -

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov -

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir -

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock -

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner -

    I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly

    eric -

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton -

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach -

    The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!

    Nikolay Andreev -

    Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..

    joemoog -

    Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.

    Merci pour votre aide.

    chicco33 -

    oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.

    Dan -

    The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.

    Andre Clement -

    P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.

    michaelquinnell -

    Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.

    Thomas Lewis -

    To add to this. In searching for the P5 screwdriver to buy in UK, as far as I can tell, it is also known as

    Pentalobe 1.2(mm)

    also

    P4 = 0.8

    P6 = 1.5

    Just unscrewed the back case of MacBook Air 13” mid 2011, with no problems using Pentalobe 1.2

    nijafe -

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love -

    Did mine today - but new battery wasnt charging. Went back in and noticed the battery connector cable was not quite 100% “seated. It was sticking out by less than a millimetre! - you need to give it quite a firm push in to get it seated properly. Otherwise - all ok .

    John Brennand -

    Just installed on a MacBookAir6,2 (13-inch, Early 2014).

    Was very easy.

    New iFixit battery looks great so far:

    Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 4922 -> 7333

    Jonathan Cross -

    can you tell me which size of screwdrivers you’ve used to crack it up, please? I have the same model and size,

    hawk_lpc -

    Screw P5 Pentalobe 1.2

    Mario Verlent -

    Install went flawlessly. Only challange was reattaching blue tooth antennas. Those sockets are so tiny.

    Joel Sebastian -

    Installation was a little challenging at first because the instructions on this site did not perfectly match my model (late 2013 to early 2015).

    Found this video on YouTube which described the procedure perfectly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lue6lVWh...

    Also the Ifixit kit I received was well put together with everything I needed and more. The calibration went perfectly and I am very pleased. Will buy again!!

    Donald Niamath -

    Gently pulled out connector of old battery, then pressed and held the power switch for 1 minute. Unscrewed and removed the old battery. Pressed and held power switch for 1 minute again. I know from previous work that this helps drain charge from spontaneous recharging as the dielectric recovers. Gently “fine tuned” leads from new battery to connector till connector stuck out at right angle to the edge of battery. Held the battery by the edges and let the connector slide into the socket. Set the battery down and put the screws in all the way. Then checked that the connector was completely seated before tightening the screws. The laptop come on immediately and showed 98% charge and registered normal (checked in “About this Mac”. Very happy to this point. Now for calibration.

    Amir Zaidi -

    Thank you very much for the guilde. My MBA2011 had reborn !

    Billy Wong -

    Allow for electrostatics, otherwise you may cook components on the logicboard /motherboard (like I did with one of these!)

    See great advice: Electrostatic Discharge

    Fletcher Cole -

    … und wenn du eines von diesen wirklich kleinen Schräubchen vermisst: bevor du den Boden aufkehrst oder mit einem starken Magneten absuchst, schau mal am seitlichen (magnetischen) Ladekabelanschluss nach … ?

    ... and if you miss one of these really small screws: before you sweep the floor or search it with a strong magnet, take a look at the (magnetic) charging cable connection on the side … ?

    Blatt -

    Fot All People ha ing trouble finding their SSD

    DONT PRESS CMD +R + POWER

    instead press

    OPTION+CMD+R +POWER

    I just installed Monterrey with WD black sn 770 SSD in m'y macbook air 2015

    Albert -

    IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.

    This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame. It is NOT glued in like the newer models of Apple laptops. And unlike older laptops, the battery is not totally enclosed in a plastic housing. So once you remove the screws holding the batterie's frame, you can remove the battery.

    Follow the instructions. Read the comments. Also read the comments re. installing a new battery.

    Good luck. - Eric J.

    ECJohansen -

    On the back of the laptop, notice that each screw is angled a little bit inward, aiming toward the middle of the laptop. Keep your screwdriver lined up with the screw (angled a bit outward as seen at 01:23 in the video: https://youtu.be/tToAwO6f-SY&t=83). This will help you get a good bite on the screw to get it out and avoid stripping the head of the screw.


    Use the same angle when putting each screw back in. If the screw is in line with its hole it should not feel like you are fighting to screw it in. If it does, check your angle and back up a little; you should feel the screw fall into line.

    Rich Garella -

    IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.

    This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame.

    shrhh -

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    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley -

    To add - the slim 1cm tab “nub” is on the centre of the back cover & fits into a hole in the battery frame. I ran my fingers around the whole of the cover to eventually here it click out.

    nijafe -

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel -

    So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?

    ASHANTI SMITH -

    What about disconnecting the battery?

    Luke -

    I bought the part and tools from iFixit and followed the directions. The mechanical part went smoothly - maybe 10 minutes to disassemble/replace/reassemble.

    Getting Catalina (the current MacOS) to install was not working until I used Cmd-Opt-R (as noted in the OWC paper sheet that came in the box) which brought up the proper installer - I believe from a pre-prepared bootable SD card but it’s hard to say. From there the install succeeded taking ~1.5 hours.

    Beware that (a) the install requires a working internet connection for verification and updates, and (b) the system must have been running at least macOs 10.13 (High Sierra) before the install in order to have an EFI BIOS that recognizes the SSD.

    Lance Berc -

    As noted by others, be a bit careful removing the lower case. There is an oblong black plastic locator very near the center of the lower case. Unless you gently pry the bottom cover pretty much straight up, you will break the ends off of the locater.

    BobY -

    Thanks for the detailed photos. When repairing equipment, I don’t really like to disassemble plastic parts, they can be damaged, but your screenshots help a lot. For my studies, I am writing an essay comparing the reliability of laptops from various manufacturers and the complexity of their repair, maybe it will be useful for someone to check the essay for plagiarism here essay checker, when comparing different manufacturers, I understood why people love Apple so much. The minimum number of failures. Of course, repairing it in an official service is not cheap, but with the help of such detailed instructions, you can do it yourself and save a lot.

    Nexus -

    The screwdriver bit to use on these case screws is not named, but I found that my "CR-V 1.2" did the job nicely.

    The driver for the screws inside the case are named, as "T5".

    Jim Henderson -

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    • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

    • Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it.

    • When reinstalling a new battery, it may be helpful to temporarily reconnect the battery before placing it in the frame. Make sure that the connector lays flat to the board.

    The guide says: "Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board", but the battery model that I was replacing did not have a clear plastic pull tab at all...

    The battery model shown in this guide is: A1405

    I was installing battery model: A1406

    A1406 has the following connector:

    Top:

    http://www.directupload.net/file/d/4122/...

    Bottom:

    http://www.directupload.net/file/d/4122/...

    By looking at the bottom of the new battery I saw how it could be removed. Simply by a gentle upward movement. I very, very carefully nudged it a bit upwards using a screwdriver on the left and right side, as shown here:

    http://www.directupload.net/file/d/4122/...

    It came out fairly easy, luckily!

    (And yes, I also cleaned up this MacBook before closing it again. It was a bit hairy in a literal way. Electronics and pets is not the best combination. ;-) )

    This was a great guide!

    wil -

    I think you may have been reading the wrong guide by mistake.

    Looking at the various MacBook Air battery replacement guides, all of the 13" models show the connector depicted in this guide. All of the 11" models (e.g. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2012 Battery Replacement) show a connector like the one in your photos.

    shamino -

    The 13 inch's tab is a bit more difficult to reinstall than uninstall. Delicate care is needed.

    Andrew Ruble -

    I agree with Andrew and Joes. I also found that the trickiest part was to pull the tap back when reinstalling the new battery. A special hint at this point in the guide would be nice.

    Alexander Kluge -

    This is the tricky part if there is one. Just pull back towards the battery and not up.

    Joe Wasser -

    hello there, My macbook air does not recognize a battery connected, anymore.

    It looks like I damaged the connectors while trying to connect the battery back, although it does not look damaged. I must say, I tried a little force to squeeze the connector in the middle instead of the edge. May have damaged the connector ?

    Once, after this, the MBA recognized my battery when pressed the connectors edge to the pins on the board. However, this did not last long and my MBA does not recognize the battery anymore. Any solutions on how I can fix this ? Please help.

    Samy Palaniappan -

    Had the same issue where my Macbook did not recognize the battery on the first try. I opened it back up and re-seated the connector and that fixed the problem. That particular connector does not seem to have a positive engagement. It does not appear to seat all the way down. It’s charging now and I hope it will remain stable and connected as I travel.

    Paul Tornatta -

    When we were putting the new battery in, it was easier to fit the tab back on and then fit the battery in place. I had someone helping me and they held the new battery up whilst I pushed the tab in. It was quite tight, and I ended up easing it in with the tip of a screwdriver on each edge in turn.

    Shimbo -

    The plastic pull tab broke off with the tiny tug I gave it (Mid-2011 Air). I just unscrewed the battery and carefully pulled out the connector when I had the extra room.

    Sam Kernot -

    for my 11inch mac air [mid 2011] the connecter is connected vertically and not horizontally - so you need to pull up, not back. thanks to Will for the links to the illustrations that made that clear. Getting the connecter to release was the hardest part of the job - otherwise, it was just removing screws.

    Jim Kemper -

    I had same as above you have to be very sure on your screen size as the battery disconnect looks a little different and I used the 11 inch steps on the link provided which worked perfectly! thanks

    Jim Lukens -

    Successful battery change on Macbook Air 13 mid-2012.

    After screwing in the new battery, I couldn't connect it to the motherboard. I was afraid of damaging the connection and the rest of the components.

    So it seemed easier to me to unscrew the new battery, then plug it in and finally screw it back in one last time. I think that this step lacks a point of precision in terms of reassembly.

    Otherwise, it's a good tutorial, thank you very much!

    Steve Baudron -

    **Note during this step how the cable flexes. With the new battery you will need to carefully bend your new connector to be able to flex in the same way, which is easier to do before you install the battery. in fact, i agree with other comments that for re-install it is easier carefully hold the battery up a bit (to keep it off the trackpad components), and install the plug as you are moving the battery up into place. This will limit the amount the cable needs to flex and take that pressure off the connector to the logic board.

    llcoreyll -

    In line with some other comments, I found it helpful to connect the cable before putting the new battery into place. That way I could aim the cable straight into the receptacle, and the wires folded appropriately into their small space when I put the battery in position and screwed it down.

    Katherine Williams -

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    • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • Three 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

    • Two 2.4 mm T5 Torx screws

    Les couleurs ne me semblent pas justes.

    drixe -

    The screw heads are made of a soft butter like chinese metal and will easily get f*cked up. take care when reinstalling to not mess them up.

    John Hamilton -

    les couleur sont justes; die rot markierten Schrauben oben und mitte sind länger als die unteren.

    I had used the P5 driver there, too (just gently put the bit into the screws and see that’ll fit.

    jmhoraze -

    The battery doesn’t actually need to come out for this repair if you’re confident working in tight spaces.

    J Kemp -

    Ich habe ein Problem die Schrauben von dem Akku mit dem gelieferten Schraubenzieher-Set rauszudrehen. Nur die Schraube in der Mitte konnte ich rausdrehen. Brauche ich einen anderen Schraubenzieher? Sollen die beiden Schraubenzieher aus dem mitgelieferten Set zu den Akku-Schrauben passen? Danke für eure Hilfe im Voraus! Alex

    Alex -

    Ich habe das Problem gelöst! Akku ist eingebaut. Mein Mac Air läuft wieder!

    Danke!

    Alex

    Alex -

    6.3mm T5 x 1

    2.4mm T5 x 4

    Tatsuo Mizukoshi -

    My Air is

    6.3 mm T5 x 1

    2.4 mm T5 x 4

    Tatsuo Mizukoshi -

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    • When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.

    • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

    • When installing the new battery, if there is a thin plastic film on your replacement battery, do not attempt to remove it. It is glued on and protects the battery pack while it is inside the MacBook.

    • If you're installing a new battery, you should calibrate it after installation:

    • Charge it to 100%, and then keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Then, unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

    • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook's SMC.

    Quick note about the replacement battery, if you bought from iFixit and the battery sections have a thin film over them, peel them off. They're to protect the battery during transit, and if you leave them on they might cause heating issues.

    Here is a link to my question about it: Replacement battery has thin film on each section do I need to remove? plus, I just got an email from iFixit customer support that it needs to be removed.

    dpchoung -

    thank you for the help! I installed the proper batt properly following the advice from here;-) Mahalo from Hawaii-

    zzzikaikazzz -

    Does replacement battery for Macbook Air 13" Mid 2012 works with Mac OS Sierra 10.12.3 and up?

    Benny Forsberg -

    I installed the battery (OEM Apple) for the Mac Air 2013 throygh 2015:

    1. the battery for the Mac Air 2012 throygh 2015 was stated to may have compatibility problems;

    2. lesser price;

    no problems with macOS Sierra.

    jmhoraze -

    Replaced it in no time! Thank you and cheers from Slovenia (that’s the one who beat you in hockey few days ago

    Mark Ogner -

    iFixit should really clarify whether the film covering each of the battery packs should or should not be removed. Based on dpchoung’s comment I removed this film. It was not obvious or easy to remove and as I was doing it I realized that maybe this was not a good idea as I was concerned the packs might be damaged in the removal process. I suspect most people don’t bother with this film. Later, clicking on the forum exchange I see conflicting advice. My guess is that the film provides added protection and has minimal impact on thermal issues. I am sorry I went through the bother of removing the film and hope no damage was done.

    Mark Young -

    Ich hab’ gelesen, dass neu eingebaute Batterien kalibriert werden müssen: https://www.newertech.com/batteries/powe...

    hjsalchow -

    Step 1 has an error, at least for me. I believe the 10 pentalobe screws are size P4, not P5. My Wiha P5 pentalobe screwdriver was too big for the screws, but my smaller P4 pentalobe screwdriver worked fine.

    BrianM -

    Great here. Replacement was a breeze. Thanks guys.

    DanielFerrer -

    Why should I wait 5 hours after draining the battery before charging it again?

    thomas.ss -

    It’s part of the calibration process—leaving it dead for awhile ensures that the battery drains low enough to reset the full discharge flag in the battery management system. If you skip that part, your battery may not calibrate properly. (It’ll still work fine, but the battery’s % charge status in macOS may be unreliable and/or behave in odd ways.) If you had to skip it for some reason, you can recalibrate at any time.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    After I replaced the battery, I plugged the charger in to start calibration and the computer started by itself. As soon as this happened I turned it off. Can this be an issue?

    How do I know the battery is 100% charged?

    Thank you

    tobias.a94 -

    It might be obvious to most people, but no mention of plugging in the battery connector when installing the new battery. I missed that part at first. Overall great instructions and finished quickly.

    Staci Thompson -

    It went well, thank you. One comment though, I prefer to put the connector back before installing the new battery since the cable is not flexible enough.

    ricochapuis -

    Replaced my new battery for a mid 2011 MacBook Air but now the battery icon says it’s not charging

    Mike Bridgewater -

    how do i dispose of the old battery responsibly?

    Jonathan Peters -

    +1 curious about this. Should be added to the guide

    Travis Todd -

    Why shouldn’t I touch the lithium polymer cells? Is that on removal, too? Is it dangerous for me or just the battery (like getting finger oils on a halogen bulb)? Would it be beneficial to wear thin latex gloves?

    Andrew Greenseid -

    After Installation my MacBook does not start, but there are peep tones 3x in a row and this repeats until I press power for few seconds. Any clue what this could be?

    b.winkler343 -

    Installation was very easy. Works perfect for me and battery is now fully charged and running.

    Andreas Otte -

    Installation was a breeze thanks to your tips.

    KAT VELASQUEZ -

    Easy. Now onward with the rest of the calibration.

    Thx

    G J L -

    When placing the new battery in, reconnect it first before screwing into place.

    Owen Moseley -

    The battery film issue. The film pictured in the guide covers each individual battery. The guide also states it is glued on. My iFixit replacement battery had a different kind of film that covered the whole battery module. It was not precise fit and was loosely stuck on rather than permanently glued. It was obviously the kind that is used to protect from scratches in packaging/shipping. It peeled off easily with no residue. My conclusion is the warning is meant for film on individual batteries. For the iFixit one I received, the film was meant to be peeled.

    Kasey Speakman -

    I have installed the battery replacement for a MBA Mid 2012 and it’s working, but the battery temperature is somehow stuck at around 26 degree Celsius. Even if you do a stresstest with 27 Watt the temperature is falling from 26.25 to 26,15. So it ssems to me that the temperature measurement isn’t correct. In other MBA Mid 2012 with original Battery the temperature range is from ambient to 41 degree.

    Don’t know if the wrong temperature has an impact on the lifetime of the battery, as the battery controller should limit currents according to temperature.

    Robert Schmidt -

    Does the battery simply come straight out?

    It isn't stuck down?

    Cary B -

    very easy - was gifted MBA but battery life was 'r/s' - vacuumed out fluff etc from machine & fan while back was off (was a technician in a previous life) .. now performing calibration. I'll write down the settings, then set energy saver to 'never' for both battery & power adaptor when it comes time to discharge the battery, then reset to original values after final charge. Fingers crossed (it's a helluva lot easier than 'Blackberry trackballs')

    Garth Lancaster -

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

    I just enthusiastically pried the socket off the board …can I have it resoldered onto the board or do I need to buy a new part?

    Parlix -

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    • De-route the left speaker cable from its retaining clip on the I/O board.

    This photograph does not match the model. The microphone has a flat ribbon cable, not a round one.

    Goth70 Fuzed -

    Also, the wire has no retaining clip in this model.

    Goth70 Fuzed -

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

    • Remove the left speaker from the upper case.

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    • Use the edge of a spudger to pry the microphone connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

    In my own MacBook Air 13" mid-2012 A1466, the microphone appears like that of the part offered for sale at the top of the page, not this image.

    Goth70 Fuzed -

    In this model, the the I/O board cable must also be removed to gain access to the microphone connector. See the upper case replacement guide for removing this part.

    Goth70 Fuzed -

    agreed! this guide is missing a step

    online -

    DO NOT PULL UP ON THE CONNECTOR. Lift the flap and pull parallel to the board.

    J Kemp -

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the microphone off the adhesive securing it to the left side of the upper case.

    • Remove the microphone from the upper case.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

Andrew Optimus Goldheart

Member since: 17/10/09

502341 Reputation

2 comments

There is a not 2012 MBA entrails on the photos. Maybe a newer MBA (double mic).

Surgie -

Agreed, that I/O board and the microphone connector are all wrong. Looks like they’ve reused a previous guide.

James Thorburn -