MacBook Air 11" Mid 2012 Trackpad Replacement

Written By: Andrew Optimus Goldheart
  • Comments: 47
MacBook Air 11" Mid 2012 Trackpad Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

9

Time Required

30 minutes

Introduction

Navigating through your computer using the TAB key is not fun. Replace a broken trackpad using this guide.

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    • Shut down and close your computer. Lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

    • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    • The special screwdriver needed to remove the 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

    When you say:

    Remove the following ten screws:

    Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    Do the 8mm & 2.5mm dimensions refer to the LENGTH of those screws, or the size of the pentalobe? That is, are there other sizes of pentalobe drivers like there are for hex, phillips and torx? When only one dimension is provided, it is usually the socket/driver size, not the screw length, maybe since the length cannot be seen when the screw is installed.

    Can I suggest that you clarify your instructions so folks are confident they are only in need of _one_ pentalobe driver?

    Nerdily yours,

    Larry (whose iPhone 4S can now get through a day without 6 recharges thanks to ifixit.com ;-)

    larryleveen -

    The 8mm and 2.5mm are the length of the screws. One pentalobe P5 screwdriver suffices for all the screws (P5 is implicitly the size of the pentalobe screw heads).

    Michael Welham -

    I sourced all the parts from ifixit, plus a magnetic project mat which I found to be very useful for organising the teardown and reassembly.

    Allen -

    The magnetic mat is

    GERARD SZAREK -

    Keep the 2.5mm tiny screws away from the MagSafe connector as they will be attracted and sucked in to the magnet.

    Frank O'Carroll -

    A tip an old bench tech taught me that has saved me many times: I put clear “Scotch” tape over the case screws as they became “free”. The tape kept them in place while I lifted the lid off, cleaned it etc.

    Michael Mee -

    Thank you for a really smart tip! I will be using that countless more times!

    Lilljedahl -

    I’m confused about internet recovery and installing MacOS. Is all of this done before placing in the new ssd card or after. I don’t have any files that I would like to safe/transfer, is all of this necessary, if I don’t do it before placing new ssd, will I still be able to instal/upgrade macOS afterwards.

    It’s an old Mac and now it won’t start or charge, I know I will have to replace battery and put new battery first and turn on Mac before doing the ssd stuff. Since it won’t effing start.

    I’m really clueless about backing up old ssd, since I don’t need any files, besides MacOS(software) ,and is that related to the ssd?

    AMG -

    The answer to your question: You need to insert your SSD into the computer before internet recovery. If you start the recovery before inserting SSD, it won’t affect the setup, you won’t damage anything. But your SSD will not be detected (as there isn’t one inserted.)

    Also, a little tip: If you bought a used SSD, go into Disk Utility and format the drive with the highest security level to permanently remove all of the previous files.

    Also a FYI: Internet Recovery will load up Mac OS X 10.9.5 Mavericks, so I would recommend making a recovery drive from a Big Sur (or desired version) through another Mac, and a USB. You can visit this support doc: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201372

    Hope this helps! -Dan

    danielwen -

    I got a macbook air with a damaged and swollen battery. I could remove all screws, except one 2,5 mm screw. I’m afraid it got damaged while attempting to remove it, I have no grip with the P5 pentalobe screwdriver. How can I proceed?

    Robert Hermans -

    Hi Robert!

    Try some techniques found in this stripped screw removal guide. Good luck!

    Arthur Shi -

    Hello I have a macbook air they are say they do not have parts for my laptop macbook air 11 inches 2013 mid need to replace battery which one to buy

    vensilver -

    Hello! This is the part you want—maybe we’re not able to ship it to you if you’re out of the United States. The battery in your MacBook Air should be the same for all 11” between mid-2011 to early-2015.

    Arthur Shi -

    The smaller screws went in more easily when I put back all the screws along the hinge edge first.

    Rachel Slatkin -

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    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both short sides of the battery connector upward to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the battery cable slightly away from the logic board so the connector will not accidentally contact its socket.

    I performed this on my MacBook Air (11-inch, Mid 2011), model A1370. Rather than using the spudger to un-attach the batter connector, I gripped either side with my fingers as the second photographs indicated, and gently pry/wiggled it up and out by initially pinching into the side gap with my finger nails. The reason I did it this way is that the spudger works by leverage and I was afraid to rest it against the components surrounding the connector. The photos and instructions are excellent and illustrate the maneuver perfectly.

    Allen -

    Hello there... In my case by battery exploded.... Can I still try to change it using these instructions?

    Fabio Matos -

    The instruction to lift the edges of battery connector before disconnecting is certainly not clear. In my case, the cconnector pins came off the board with the battery, requiring further costly repairs. I would suggest that this instruction be more specific and include a caution.

    Deirdre Rogan -

    It worked fine for me, but as others mentioned, you need to be careful to remove the battery connector from the motherboard connector and not accidentally remove the motherboard connector from the motherboard itself.

    Additionally, on reassembly, I found that quit a bit of pressure was needed to get the new battery's connector to snap in place. More than I was comfortable applying, but it was necessary and it worked without a problem.

    shamino -

    I just used my finger(nails), came off easily (even though i have a full iFixIt set).

    Dennis van der Pool -

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    • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • Two 5.2 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 2.6 mm T5 Torx screws

    In my case the screw points connecting the old battery the case had fractured or broken. The broken bits needed to be cleaned out of the case before installing the replacement battery. Didn't want any loose fragments rattling about inside.

    Allen -

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    • When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the six exposed lithium polymer cells.

    • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

    • If you're installing a new battery, you should calibrate it after installation:

    • Charge it to 100%, and then keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Next, unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

    • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook's SMC.

    What if new battery comes with what looks like plastic around the 6 cells?

    Allison -

    I'm having trouble reconnecting the pins to the new battery cable. Any suggestions?

    Deirdre Rogan -

    The cable on my new battery needed to be massaged to reconnect with the pins. Use your old battery as an example for how the cable should sit in the empty space.

    Joe Ponce -

    In my case, the replacement battery cable was quite stiff. In order to properly connect it to the logic board, BEFORE screwing the battery into the board, I carefully bent the cable and I connected it to the board. AFTER connecting the cable, carefully move the part of the batter closest to the logic board into place, and take care of those screws first.

    Chris 1000 -

    Followed the instructions and everything went smoothly. Less than 20 minutes later everything assembled and my MacBook Air working very well.

    Thanks

    Luis Lopes -

    Two of the battery cells were “blown up” in my laptop. We simply removed it with these instructions and now it’s working again, when plugged in only, of course.

    bob -

    As with Chris 1000, the replacement battery cable is stiff. First position the battery loosely into it's slot, then align the cable connector over the pins & press gently but firmly to seat the connector. Secondly, seat the battery to line up with all of it's screw fasteners for the reassembly.

    Steve G -

    Instructions did not mention the plastic film on top of the battery. Similar to a peel away film on a new phone. But it had screws holes in it and does not peel away as easily as a phone Peels away from edge easily enough but had a little "pull" to it over the cells. For now I left it. Quick google searches did not clarify the issue. If anyone can confirm I should pull it off I'll open it up again and remove. The install is easy.

    Eric Strausser -

    I think I saw a note that said to leave it. But side-note, i'm glad to see someone replacing the battery more recently, as I just purchased myself a new macbook but my son asked if we can replace the battery and I honestly didn't even realize that it was possible for some reason. I think for the minimal cost involved and the fact that my 2011 still works flawlessly he'll enjoy it for a few more years to come as well. I hope the new ones are made as well quality wise!!

    Teresa Powell -

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    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the ZIF connector retaining flap on the trackpad data cable.

    • Gently slide the ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector.

    • Adjust, but do not remove the T5 Trackpad Sensitivity Screw to change the trackpad's depth sensitivity.

    The Trackpad Sensitivity Screw in this model is a T6 Torx screw

    andresaldana -

    Need a description of why and how much to adjust the sensitivity screw. Do you need to put the screw back to its original position?

    blairweaver -

    I agree with andresaldana - it feels like just about all the T5 Torx screws in this model are actually T6 - a much snugger fit. Is there a more official record of whether these Torx screws are T5 or T6?

    ROBERT MOORE -

    If your problem is that clicking the trackpad is inconsistent from side to side (one side clicks and the other doesn’t), adjusting this tension screw may be all you need.

    matt -

    Use the T6 to adjust the Trackpad sensitivity screw: The screw adjusts the 'travel' of the trackpad button and the force needed to register a click successfully. Turning the screw clockwise reduces the required travel, and dampens the sound of the click itself. But be very careful not to turn it too tight. Turning the screw counterclockwise increases the travel, and makes the click louder.

    mulkey -

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    • With one hand, push the keyboard ribbon cable in slightly to access the ZIF connector beneath it.

    • Use a spudger to flip up the retaining flap.

    • Gently slide the cable out of the connector.

    Be careful with the retaining piece on the ZIF connector, it released with a bit of a fight but then broke when I tried to close it after reinserting the cable. :(

    thea -

    Mine popped off too but I managed to get it back on. The clip has two very small bumps on the side that goes down the way so look for them when trying to re-attach it.

    David McKeitch -

    Mine broke too when re-inserting the cable, had to order a new trackpad because of this. Couldn't get it back in and broke off a small piece of plastic trying to fix the latch. I ordered a new trackpad. I really don't hope this happens with the new trackpad.

    Markus -

    Note on the two ZIF connections. The smaller connection has it's ZIF lock toward the front of the laptop while the wider ZIF connection faces the KB. I busted the keyboard connections thinking the ZIF was in the opposite direction. Had to replace it with a new trackpad.

    I have found that I was able to wiggle the cables out of the ZIFs carefully. idk if this works for all ZIF connections and I'd love to hear anyone who has an opinion on removing ZIF cables. But this makes it much easier to remove and not break the ZIF connections.

    Tim -

    I work with a Magnifier with a light. Blowing up the subject so you have it really magnified to a high degree helps enormously. I have removed and reattached many zif cables successfully without a hitch. Act like a surgeon.

    Paolo Alberto -

    Worked fine. Even the keyboard ZIF Cable. Reinserting it was bit tricky.

    hschreiber -

    I had a bit of trouble getting the keyboard cable back in before noticing that it needs to be off the surface of the trackpad to slide in. The whole arrangement is awkward; just be patient and take it slowly.

    mrsharumpe -

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    • Remove the six 1.5 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the trackpad in place.

    • These screws are installed tightly and strip easily. Be careful as you remove them.

    Phillips #00 screwdriver should be added to the tool list

    brian -

    The trackpad sold to me by ifixit did not come with the little hinge plates. I had to remove the six other screws and transfer these to the new trackpad. If this is based on using the part as sold here then the photo needs to be corrected to show the six red circles on the phillips screws that are on the trackpad and not on the Mac itself. These are installed quite tightly and I nearly destroyed two of them (on the body side as indicated in the photo) using the correct tool. The six that screw into the trackpad are much more gently installed. I don't think you are generally supposed to remove the six to the chassis of the MBA. Please update this to correct this - UNLESS THE PART FROM APPLE INCLUDES THESE TWO HINGE PLATES AND SCREWS. In that case, please INDICATE THIS difference in the text of the article. It added work and a bit of stress when the two screws were nearly trashed and I realized the new part did not come with replacements. Not good. However, this was otherwise a very easy project. THANKS!

    Wade Rackley -

    +1 On this comment. The trackpad replacement kit from iFixit does NOT include the hinge plates. The hinge plates must be removed from the removed from the old trackpad (and the additional six screws holding in place). There is the need to replace 12 screws total in this step AND the removal of the old hinge plates to re-use, and re-install on the new, replacement trackpad assembly. This is a critical miss in this step's directions.

    coryss -

    If someone could please respond ASAP, i was removing one of these screws from the above picture and it was completely destroyed despite my best efforts. The other 5 came out no problem but i have one screw that is stripped beyond use and i have no clue what do to with it at this point

    jed falone -

    PH#00 was a size too large in my case. Had to use PH#000 instead.

    Stewart Johnston -

    When you’re putting it back together make sure that you don’t put the flatcable through the cutout and stick it between

    Dennis van der Pool -

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    • Open the device about 10 degrees.

    • While holding the bottom of the trackpad, press up on the side of the trackpad closest to the logic board to free it from the upper case.

    • Remove the trackpad from the device.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

Andrew Optimus Goldheart

Member since: 17/10/09

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