Introduction

Follow this guide to replace the battery on a Logitech G PRO Wireless mouse.

Replacing the battery on a G PRO Wireless mouse requires removing the mouse feet. If you plan to reuse the mouse feet, you’ll need to apply heat to loosen the adhesive and remove the feet with minimal bending. Bent or torn mouse feet may require replacement feet.

For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your mouse. This reduces the risk of a dangerous thermal event if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

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    • Shift the power switch down to turn off your mouse (when the PRO Wireless label is oriented right-side up).

    • The color behind the switch should be red when the mouse is switched off.

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    • If you plan to reuse the mouse feet, you'll need to apply heat to loosen the adhesive and remove the feet with minimal bending.

    • Heat an iOpener and apply it to the upper mouse foot for one minute.

    • A hair dryer or heat gun may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the mouse—the internal battery is susceptible to heat damage. If you use a hair dryer or heat gun, set it to the lowest temperature setting and apply heat for 10 seconds.

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    • Insert the flat end of a spudger under the upper mouse foot.

    • Each mouse foot has a gap in its recess that you can use to insert the spudger.

    • The mouse feet are made of two layers. Make sure you insert the spudger under the bottom layer to completely remove the foot.

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    • Slide the spudger under the length of the upper mouse foot to cut through the adhesive and detach it from the mouse.

    • Work slowly to avoid bending the mouse foot. If the adhesive becomes difficult to cut through, remove the spudger and apply more heat.

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    • Apply the iOpener to the lower mouse feet for one minute.

    • Alternatively, use a hair dryer or heat gun to apply heat for ten seconds.

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    • Insert the flat end of a spudger under the left lower mouse foot.

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    • Slide the spudger under the length of the left lower mouse foot to cut through the adhesive and detach it from the mouse.

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    • Repeat the procedure to remove the two remaining lower mouse feet.

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    • If you are going to install replacement mouse feet or apply new adhesive, use the flat edge of a spudger to remove the remaining adhesive in the mouse foot recesses.

    • During reassembly, follow this guide if you are using a pre-cut adhesive card to secure the mouse feet.

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    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the seven 4.4 mm-long screws securing the lower case.

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    • Don't try to remove the lower case from the upper case yet. They are still attached by the battery cables and input cable.

    • Lift the bottom end of the lower case about 1 cm away from the upper case.

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    • The lower case has clips on its top edge attaching it to the upper case.

    • Pull the lower case down about 0.5 cm to detach the lower case from the upper case.

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    • The battery cables and input cable are connected to the bottom right of the lower case (when the PRO Wireless logo is facing you).

    • Swing the lower case left to right away from the upper case.

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    • Place the lower case on your work surface.

    • Lean the upper case against a sturdy object (such as a box) to prevent straining the cables.

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    • Use a pair of blunt tweezers to pull the battery connector straight out of its slot.

    • Pull up with a rocking motion to "walk" the battery connector out of its slot.

    • During reassembly, make sure the battery connector is oriented correctly when you insert it into its slot. The red wire should be on the side where the motherboard is marked with a plus sign (+).

    DO NOT DO THIS. If the tweezers/pliers slip say goodbye to the connector and pretty much the battery.

    Ralph Trocchia -

    The same thing happened to me :'(

    The connector disconnected from the motherboard

    Julian Motyl -

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    • Use the pointed end of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the input cable ZIF connector.

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    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the input cable out of its ZIF connector.

    • The white line on this ribbon cable marks the edge of the connection area. To reinstall, insert the cable into the connector up to this line, and then close the locking flap. If the cable doesn’t insert easily up to (or very near to) this line, it’s probably misaligned and needs to be gently removed and repositioned.

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    • Remove the upper case from the lower case.

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    • Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tools—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a thermal event.

    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 3.5 mm screw securing the battery plate.

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    • The battery plate is lightly adhered to the battery.

    • Use the flat edge of a spudger to lift up the screw side of the battery plate and detach it from the battery.

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    • Remove the battery plate from the battery.

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    • The battery is lightly adhered to the upper case.

    • Insert the flat edge of a spudger under the gap beneath the right side of the battery.

    • Lift up the spudger to detach the battery from the upper case.

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    • Repeat the previous step for the left side of the battery.

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    • Remove the battery from the upper case.

    • Do not reuse the battery after it has been removed, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.

    • If your replacement battery doesn't have preinstalled adhesive, apply a 1 cm by 1 cm piece of pre-cut adhesive to the bottom of the battery.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Logitech G PRO Wireless Answers community for help.

Kyle Smith

Member since: 01/02/21

40669 Reputation

6 comments

Worked entirely fine for me. Since I bought replacement sliders/feet as well, I just skipped the warming up steps. The glue still separated very easily and overall took me like 10 seconds to remove all feet

Regarding the battery/flex-cable step, I personally removed the flex cable first as it’s much more fragile and less replaceable than the battery cable

I also removed the logic board to clean the area below, it’s pretty straight-forward. The only thing one has to remember is where the on/off switch colors go again during re-assembly. Answer: the blue side is at the bottom (when the PRO Wireless label is readable and NOT upside-down), you can find a photo in step 10

The symptoms I had before the repair were a bit weird, which is why I initially wasn’t sure if it’s the battery or not. Basically, my mouse wouldn’t charge a lot, but also wouldn’t work for a long time while connected via cable. Both of these appear to be fixed now (I’ll try to remember to update this comment if it turns out to be broken)

For a replacement battery, I managed to find an original battery on eBay that was disassembled from a returned mouse. That way I could be sure I’m not going to receive some potentially dangerous knock-off version, which I didn’t want to risk.

Florian Wendelborn -

The locking flap on the input cable ZIF connector just broke in half when I tried this teardown. Would you happen to know where I can buy a replacement, if there's any?

Just Lurking -

It is absurd how hard it is to replace a battery on such a simple device. It should be a simple turn and lock mechanism and Logitech should sell replacement batteries directly to the consumers. I guess this way is more profitable because most people including me will never do it!

Ronaldo -

Anybody know of a good battery to use as a replacement? I searched a while back and couldn't find a source I was confident in.

Jason Tran -

Note to all - I'm assuming the battery must run in series with the power/data cable. So if you are having battery issues (battery not charging) and waiting for the replacement to arrive, you can remove battery re-assemble and use the mouse plugged in/switched off as if it were wired in the interim!

Acadia -

Yea my mouse stopped charging. Battery replacement fixed flawlessly. and yes that ZIF connector does totally suck, it's not just you

Tommy Morgan (Shifty Chips) -