HTC Vive XR Elite Lens Assembly Replacement

Written By: Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Comments: 1

HTC Vive XR Elite Lens Assembly Replacement

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

45 minutes - 1 hour

Introduction

Use this guide to replace the lens assembly in your HTC Vive XR Elite.

Tools

Step 1

Before starting this repair, discharge the batteries in your headset below 25%. A charged battery may leak dangerous chemicals or catch fire if damaged.
Playing Half Life: Alyx will do the trick!
The Vive XR Elite has a proximity sensor that puts the headset in standby mode to save battery when it isn't in use. To drain the battery faster you'll need to use the headset.

Step 2

Disconnect the USB-C power cable.

Step 3

Press the release button on the right battery cradle temple slot.
Pull the battery cradle away from the right temple slot to disconnect it.

Step 4

Repeat the previous step for the left temple slot.

Step 5

Separate the headset and battery cradle.

Step 6

The face cushion is attached to the headset with two magnets. You'll feel the pull of the magnets as you remove it.
Grip the middle of the face cushion with your fingers and pull back to remove it.

Step 7

Use tweezers to remove the six screw covers from the right temple.

Step 8

Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the six 4.9 mm‑long screws securing the two right temple halves.
Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the two 3.5 mm‑long screws securing the right hinge cover.

Step 9

Insert the flat end of a spudger in the gap between the right outer and inner hinge covers.
Slide the spudger along the gap to separate the clips securing the outer hinge cover.
Remove the outer hinge cover.

Step 10

Insert the flat end of a spudger in the gap between the outer and inner temple.
Slide the spudger along the gap to separate the clips securing the outer temple.

Step 11

Slide the top of the outer temple out of its slot in the hinge.

Step 12

The speaker is lightly adhered to the outer temple.
Rotate the outer temple towards you to access the speaker.
Slide the flat end of a spudger under the speaker to separate its adhesive.
During reassembly, if your speaker adhesive isn't sticky, use double-sided tape to re-adhere the speaker to the outer temple.

Step 13

Thread the outer temple off of the USB‑C cable and remove it.

Step 14

Pull the inner temple out of its slot in the hinge and remove it.

Step 15

Use tweezers to peel back the black tape covering one of the inner hinge cover screws.

Step 16

Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the inner hinge cover:
One 3.1 mm‑long screw
One 4.9 mm‑long screw

Step 17

Rotate the inner hinge cover off its groove in the frame.
Thread the inner hinge cover off of the USB-C and speaker cables and remove it.

Step 18

Use tweezers to remove the six screw covers from the left temple.

Step 19

Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the six 4.9 mm‑long screws securing the two left temple halves.
Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the two 3.5 mm‑long screws securing the left hinge cover.

Step 20

Insert the flat end of a spudger in the gap between the left outer and inner hinge covers.
Slide the spudger along the gap to separate the clips securing the outer hinge cover.
Remove the outer hinge cover.

Step 21

Pull the left temple out of its slot in the hinge.
Don't try to fully remove it yet, as it's still connected by a cable.

Step 22

Insert the flat end of a spudger in the gap between the outer and inner temple.
Slide the spudger along the gap to separate the plastic clips securing the outer temple.

Step 23

Pull the outer temple off of its inner half to completely release its plastic clips.

Step 24

The speaker is lightly adhered to the outer temple.
Slide the flat end of a spudger under the speaker to separate its adhesive.
Let the speaker rest next to the headset before continuing.
During reassembly, if your speaker adhesive isn't sticky, use Tesa 61395 Tape to re-adhere the speaker to the outer temple.

Step 25

Use tweezers to peel back the black tape covering one of the inner hinge cover screws.

Step 26

Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the inner hinge cover:
One 3.5 mm‑long screw
One 4.9 mm‑long screw

Step 27

Don't fully remove the inner hinge cover, as it's connected by the volume button cable.
Rotate the inner hinge cover off its groove in the frame.
Let the cover hang off its volume button cable for now.

Step 28

Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the 12 screws securing the face plate:
Six 3.5 mm‑long screws
Four 4.9 mm‑long screws
Two 6.5 mm‑long screws
There are two magnets at the top corners of the face plate. As you remove nearby screws, they might stick to them.

Step 29

Insert the flat end of the spudger in the gap between the frame and the bottom right corner of the face cover.
Pry up with the spudger to release the clips securing the face cover.

Step 30

Repeat the prying process for the middle and bottom left portions of the face cover.

Step 31

Don't fully remove the face cover completely, as it's connected by the proximity sensor cable.
Lift the face cover and rotate it over the top of the frame.
Lay the face cover face up before continuing.

Step 32

Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the two 3.3 mm‑long screws securing the proximity sensor cable.

Step 33

Remove the face cover.

Step 34

Pull the two lenses outward so they're as far apart as possible.

Step 35

Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the four screws securing the lens assembly:
Three 4.9 mm‑long screws
One 3.3 mm‑long screw

Step 36

The screw brackets are secured with clips and adhesive.
Use tweezers to pull the left screw bracket of its post in the frame.
This may require some force. Be careful not to scratch any surrounding components.
Repeat this process for the right bracket.
During reassembly, use tweezers to align the brackets on their posts. Press down with the flat end of a spudger to engage and re-adhere the clips.

Step 37

Lift the bottom of the lens assembly up to separate the bottom rails from their slots in the frame.

Step 38

Pull the lens assembly upwards to separate the top rails from their slots in the frame.
Rotate the lens assembly towards the top of the frame so it sits upright with its cable connectors exposed.

Step 39

Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the four 3.4 mm‑long screws securing the lens assembly cables.

Step 40

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the lens assembly cable connector.
Repeat this procedure for the other connector.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 41

Lift up and remove the lens assembly.

Step 42

The next four steps demonstrate how to secure the lens assembly to the frame during reassembly.
In order for the lens assembly to rest in the frame properly, it needs to align with a peg in the IPD (interpupillary distance) slider.
Before reinstalling the lens assembly, push the IPD slider to its right-most position.

Step 43

Pull the lens assembly outward until its plastic clips sit close to the end of the top rails.
You may need to push and pull the top rail so it sits evenly across the plastic clips.

Step 44

Push the bottom rails inwards as far as they will go.

Step 45

To secure the lens assembly into the frame:
Slide the top left rail into its slot.
Align the other rails.
Press the lens assembly into place, making sure to realign the center peg.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers Community for help.

Author

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Member since: 16/01/22

117875 Reputation

One comment

Geez Louise! All that disassembly just to replace the lenses? Why couldn't HTC simply come up with a bottle cap screw on design????

John Bell -