Google Pixel 8 Logic Board Replacement

Written By: Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Comments: 2

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

2 - 3 hours

Introduction

This repair guide was authored by the iFixit staff and hasn’t been endorsed by Google. Learn more about our repair guides here.

Use this guide to replace the logic board in your Google Pixel 8.

You'll need replacement adhesive to complete this repair.

Note: This guide was made with the 5G mmWave antenna model of the Pixel 8. If you have the non-mmWave version, you can still use this guide—just skip the steps that mention the 5G mmWave antenna.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Let your Pixel's battery drain below 25% before starting this repair. A charged lithium‑ion battery may catch fire if damaged.
Unplug all cables from your phone.
Completely power off your phone.
Press the power and volume up buttons at the same time to bring up the shutdown menu.

Step 2

Firmly press a SIM eject tool, bit, or straightened paper clip into the SIM card tray hole on the left edge of your phone until the tray ejects.
Remove the SIM card tray.

Step 3

You'll be using opening picks to separate the screen from the frame. If inserted too far, a pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.

Step 4

Adhesive and clips secure the screen to the frame. Heating the screen softens the adhesive, making it easier to separate.
Heat an iOpener and lay it on the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes to soften the adhesive.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but be careful as extreme heat can damage the screen and/or battery.

Ich habe gerade sehr gute Erfahrungen mit einer schlichten "nackten" Wärmflasche mit fast kochendem Wasser gemacht. Handy mit dem Display drauf, ein Handtuch drüber, 1-2 Minuten warten, und los geht's. Es wird gleichmäßig erwärmt und keine Gefahr der Überhitzung.

Paul Sommer -

Step 5

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Place your phone screen side up on an object so it will rest level between the Anti-Clamp's arms—the bottom edge should be hanging off.
Slide the arms over the left edge of your phone, so you have access to the bottom edge.
Position the suction cups as close to the center of the bottom edge as possible.
Squeeze the cups together to create suction.

Step 6

Pull the handle forward to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise one full turn (360 degrees), or until the suction cups begin to stretch.
As the cups stretch, make sure they stay aligned with each other. If they keep slipping, remove the Anti-Clamp and apply tape for the cups to stick to.

Step 7

Wait one minute for a gap to form between the screen and frame.
If the adhesive doesn't separate, twist the handle clockwise one quarter turn and wait another minute. Apply more heat if the screen cools down.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
Don't insert your opening pick more than 3 mm to avoid damaging the spring contacts.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the arms and remove the Anti-Clamp using the pull tabs on the suction cups.
Skip the next two steps

Step 8

Apply a suction handle to the center of the screen's bottom edge.

Step 9

Pull up on the suction handle with strong, steady force until a gap forms between the screen and frame.
If you're having trouble creating a gap, apply more heat and try again.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.

Step 10

To avoid damaging your phone, don't insert your pick more than 3 mm as you separate the screen adhesive. Note the following areas:
The screen cable is a little less than halfway up the left edge of the phone. Be very careful here to avoid tearing the cable.
There are many spring contacts around the perimeter of the phone. Be very careful in these areas to avoid bending the contacts.

I've had 2 devices from Google, both make a creaking snapping noise on the left side of the display above the sim. Clearly it's a design issue and wonder if it could be fixed.

Jon Kujawa - 08/01/24

Step 11

Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive securing it.
Leave the pick in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 12

Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but be careful as extreme heat can damage the screen and/or battery.

Step 13

Insert a second opening pick under the bottom right corner of the screen.
Slide the new pick to the top right corner to separate the adhesive securing the screen's right edge.
Leave the pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 14

Insert a third opening pick under the bottom edge of the screen.
Slide the new pick to the bottom left corner.
Leave the pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 15

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but be careful as extreme heat can damage the screen and/or battery.

Step 16

Insert a fourth opening pick under the bottom left corner of the screen.
Slide the new pick to the top left corner to separate the adhesive securing the screen's left edge.
Leave the pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 17

Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but be careful as extreme heat can damage the screen and/or battery.

Step 18

Insert a fifth opening pick under the top edge of the screen, near the left corner.
Slide the opening pick to the top right corner to separate the adhesive securing the screen's top edge.

Step 19

Place a small box or stack of books to the left of your phone so you can prop up the screen while disconnecting its cable.
Swing up the right edge of the screen like the front cover of a book.
Be careful not to strain the screen cable.
If the screen feels stuck, go back around the perimeter with an opening pick to separate any remaining adhesive.
Prop up the screen so you can access the screen cable.

Step 20

Use an opening pick to pry up the upper edge of the screen cable cover.
Remove the cover.

Step 21

Insert the point of a spudger under the top left corner of the screen's press connector.
Gently pry up and disconnect the cable.
To re-attach press connectors, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down in the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Step 22

Remove the screen.
During reassembly:
If you replaced your screen, check the front-facing camera hole on your replacement screen and remove any remaining liners.
Remember to reinstall the screen cable cover.
This is a good point to test your phone before sealing it up. Temporarily connect your screen, power on your phone, and make sure it works as expected. Before continuing with reassembly, power off your phone and disconnect the screen.
Follow this guide to replace your screen adhesive.
If you're installing a new screen, follow this guide to calibrate the fingerprint sensor.

Step 23

A plastic buffer is lightly adhered to the midframe and bottom speaker.
Slide the tip of an opening pick under the plastic buffer until you can grip it with tweezers or your fingers.

Step 24

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to peel off and remove the plastic buffer from the midframe and the bottom speaker.

Step 25

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.
While the Pixel 8 uses Torx Plus screws, standard Torx bits will also work. Make sure to apply constant, downward force to prevent stripping.
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 5 mm‑long 3IP Torx Plus screws securing the USB‑C port bracket.

Step 26

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the USB-C port bracket.

Step 27

During reassembly, follow this step to replace the plastic shim that runs across the bottom of the midframe and loudspeaker. If you don't have a replacement, press the old one back into place.
Remove the clear liner from the shim.
Use the markings on the midframe to align the left side of the shim and press it into place.
Use the flat end of a spudger to firmly press down along the whole shim to secure it.
Remove the blue liner.

Step 28

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the 5 mm‑long screw securing the bottom speaker.

Step 29

Insert the point of a spudger between the top right corner of the bottom speaker and the frame.
Pry the bottom speaker up with the spudger to dislodge it from its recess.
Remove the bottom speaker.
During reassembly, insert the edge of the speaker with an black gasket at a downward angle into its recess. Then press the speaker firmly into place.

Step 30

Use the point of the spudger to pry up and disconnect the 5G mmWave antenna cable from the logic board.

Step 31

The 5G mmWave antenna cable is secured to the midframe with adhesive in two places.
Heat an iOpener and lay it on the left edge of the phone for two minutes to soften the cable adhesive.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but be careful as, extreme heat can damage the battery.

Step 32

Insert an opening pick under the 5G mmWave antenna cable's bottom section of adhesive.
Slide the pick toward the top edge of the phone to separate the adhesive.

Step 33

Repeat the previous step for the upper section of adhesive.

Step 34

Move the 5G mmWave antenna cable over the top of the phone to keep it out of the way.
Don't fold or crease the cable—just move it enough so it doesn't interfere with disassembly.

Step 35

A large graphite sheet must be removed and replaced to complete this repair. It connects the upper part of the battery, midframe, and the rear cameras.
Insert the point of a spudger under the top right corner of the graphite sheet and lift until you can grip the sheet with your fingers.
Peel up and remove the entire graphite sheet.
If your sheet tears, don't worry! Grip the torn parts and remove the sheet in sections.
During reassembly, do not reuse the old graphite sheet. Follow this guide to replace the sheet.

Step 36

Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the eight 5.1 mm‑long 3IP Torx Plus screws securing the midframe.

Step 37

The center of the midframe is lightly bonded to a thermal pad.
Slide the flat end of a spudger under the bottom right corner of the midframe to separate it from the thermal pad.
You'll feel the midframe loosen once it separates completely.

Step 38

Lift the midframe off the frame and remove it.
During reassembly check the condition of the thermal pad. If it's damaged, remove the pad, clean the area with high-concentration (greater than 90%) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber or lint-free cloth, and apply a new thermal pad.

Step 39

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery connector.

Step 40

Insert the point of a spudger under the bottom half of the wide rear camera press connector, between the surface-mounted components.
Don't insert your pick anywhere else, as you risk damaging the logic board.
Pry up to disconnect the wide rear camera.

Step 41

Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the two 5.1 mm‑long 3IP Torx Plus screws securing the wide rear camera.

Step 42

Insert the tip of a spudger under one of the wide rear camera screw hole cutouts.
Use the spudger to lift the camera out of its recess.
Remove the camera.

Step 43

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the ultrawide rear camera press connector from the logic board.

Step 44

Insert the tip of a spudger under the top screw cutout on the ultrawide rear camera.
Use the spudger to lift the camera out of its recess.
Remove the camera.

Step 45

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the front camera press connector from the logic board.

Step 46

The front camera cable is lightly adhered to the earpiece speaker.
Slide an opening pick under the front camera cable to separate the adhesive.
During reassembly, reuse your old adhesive if it's still sticky. If not, use a double-sided tape like Tesa Tape to resecure the front camera.

Step 47

The 5G mmWave antenna cable overlaps the bottom edge of the front camera.
Move the antenna cable toward the right edge of the phone to free the front camera.
Remove the front camera.
During reassembly, make sure the front camera rests properly in its recess and under the antenna cable.

Step 48

Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the 5.1 mm‑long 3IP Torx Plus screw securing the 5G mmWave antenna bracket.

Step 49

Insert the point of a spudger in the notch at the top right corner of the 5G mmWave antenna bracket.
Pry up with the spudger to separate the bracket from its recess in the frame.
Remove the bracket.
During reassembly, reinsert the top edge of the bracket first at a downward angle so its foam pad sits properly before resecuring the bracket.

Step 50

Pull the antenna and its cable out of the frame and remove it.
If your cable disconnects from the antenna, don't worry! Align the cable press connector over its socket and press down with your fingers until it snaps into place.

Step 51

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the interconnect cable press connector.

Step 52

Adhesive secures the top and bottom edges of the battery to the frame. Heating the back cover softens the adhesive, making it easier to separate.
Carefully flip your phone over and lay it down on your workspace.
Use a hairdryer or heat gun to heat the left side of the back cover, near the top and bottom edges of the battery. It should be slightly too hot to touch.
Be careful not to heat the phone hotter than this—the battery is susceptible to heat damage.

Step 53

Flip your phone back over and lay it on your workspace.
Apply a few drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (>90%) along the right edge of the battery.

Step 54

Tilt your phone to help the alcohol flow towards the adhesive on the top and bottom edges of the battery.
Wait one minute to allow the alcohol to dissolve the adhesive.

Step 55

Insert the flat side of an opening pick between the right edge of the battery and frame.

Step 56

Don't crease or bend the battery—it can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.
The adhesive securing the battery is very strong. Separating it requires time and constant pressure. It will most likely take multiple rounds of heat and isopropyl alcohol.
Firmly secure your phone with one hand.
With your free hand, pry the battery up with the pick. Maintain constant pressure on the pick until the battery separates from the frame.
If after two minutes of constant pressure the battery doesn't budge, apply more heat and isopropyl alcohol and try again.

Step 57

If your battery is creased, bent, or deformed, do not reuse it—it's a fire hazard. Replace it with a new battery.
Use the opening pick to lift the battery and separate the remaining adhesive.
Remove the battery.
During reassembly, follow this guide to remove the old adhesive and install your battery.

Step 58

Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the 2.5 mm‑long 3IP Torx Plus screw securing the grounding bracket to the bottom right edge of your phone.

Step 59

Remove the grounding bracket.

Step 60

Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the two 3.5 mm‑long 3IP Torx Plus screws securing the logic board.

Step 61

Move the interconnect cable away from the frame to keep it from snagging on the logic board.
Optionally, you can tape the cable to the left edge of the phone.

Step 62

Before removing the logic board, make sure the SIM card tray is removed.
Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the top edge of the logic board until you can grip it with your fingers.

Step 63

Lift the top of the logic board upward to release its bottom clip.
Remove the logic board.
During reassembly, reinsert the USB-C port at a downward angle and align the rubber gasket before pressing the logic board into place.