Google Pixel 7a Wide Camera Replacement

Written By: Clay Eickemeyer

Comments: 0

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

This repair guide was authored by the iFixit staff and hasn’t been endorsed by Google. Learn more about our repair guides here.

Follow this guide to remove or replace the wide camera in your Google Pixel 7a.

You might need to replace your wide camera if it doesn't focus or stabilize properly, or if there is physical damage from a cracked or scratched lens.

Note: The Verizon model Google Pixel 7a (G0DZQ) has a 5G mmWave antenna. If you have this model, some photos in this guide differ, but the procedure is the same.

If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

You'll need replacement adhesive in order to complete this repair.

Note: Any repair can compromise the water resistance of your phone. Retaining water resistance after the repair will depend on how well you reapply the adhesive.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Allow your battery to drain below 25% before starting this repair. A charged lithium-ion battery is a potential safety hazard.
Unplug any cables from your phone and fully power it down.

Step 2

Insert a SIM eject tool, bit, or straightened paper clip into the SIM card tray hole.
Press the SIM eject tool into the hole to eject the SIM card tray.
Remove the SIM card tray.

Step 3

Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the rear cover for three minutes.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to warm the rear cover.
Only heat the phone enough so it's just hot to the touch. Extreme heat can damage the screen, rear cover, or battery.

Step 4

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle backward to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Slide the arms over the bottom edge of the phone, with one suction cup on the rear cover and one on the screen.
Squeeze the cups together to create suction.

Step 5

Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise one full turn (360 degrees), or until the suction cups begin to stretch.
As the cups stretch, make sure they stay aligned with each other. If they keep slipping, remove the Anti-Clamp and apply tape for the cups to stick to.

Step 6

While the heat from an iOpener is sufficient to separate the rear cover, it might cool down while you set up the Anti-Clamp. Reheat the rear cover if you need more time to set it up.
Place an object under your phone so it rests level while between the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Wait one minute, or until the adhesive separates, for a gap to form along the bottom edge of the phone.
Insert an opening pick into the gap between the rear cover and the frame.
If the adhesive doesn't separate, twist the handle clockwise one quarter turn and wait another minute. Apply more heat with a hair dryer or heat gun if the rear cover cools down.
Remove the suction cups from the phone using their pull-tabs and set the Anti-Clamp aside.

Step 7

If you've already inserted an opening pick using the Anti-Clamp, skip this step.
Apply a suction handle to the center of the bottom edge of the rear cover.
Pull up on the suction handle with a strong, steady force until a gap forms between the rear cover and frame.
Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.
Remove the suction handle.

Step 8

The rear cover is secured with adhesive around the perimeter of the frame and near the cameras. Use this picture as a reference while you slice the adhesive.

Step 9

Angle the opening pick upward so the tip faces away from the frame.
From here on, keep all opening picks angled upward while slicing until the rear cover is fully removed.
Slide your pick to the bottom left corner of the rear cover.
Leave this pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 10

Insert a second opening pick in the bottom left corner.
Slide the new pick to the bottom right corner of the rear cover to separate the bottom edge adhesive.
Leave this pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 11

Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the rear cover for two minutes.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to warm the rear cover. Remember to not overheat the phone.

Step 12

Don't insert your pick deeper than 5 mm along the right edge to avoid damaging the wireless charging coil.
For a visual reference, you can measure 5 mm from the tip and mark your pick with a permanent marker.
Insert a third opening pick in the bottom right corner of the rear cover.
Slide your pick up the right edge of the rear cover to separate its adhesive. Stop when you reach the camera bar.
Leave this pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 13

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the rear cover for two minutes.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to warm the rear cover. Remember to not overheat the phone.

Step 14

Don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm along the left edge to avoid damaging the wireless charging coil and rear cover foam pad.
For a visual reference, you can measure 3 mm from the tip and mark your pick with a permanent marker.
Insert a fourth opening pick in the bottom left corner of the rear cover.
Slide your pick up the left edge of the rear cover to separate the adhesive. Stop when you reach the camera bar.
Leave this pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 15

Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the rear cover for two minutes.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to warm the rear cover. Remember to not overheat the phone.

Step 16

There's a thick strip of adhesive along the antenna housing.
Insert a fifth opening pick in the top left corner of the rear cover between 8 mm and 10 mm (0.3–0.4 in) deep, or just over halfway between the tip of the pick and the iFixit logo.
If you can't insert the pick, start with the small gap near the camera bar from the previous pick.
Slide your pick halfway across the top edge to separate the antenna bracket adhesive. Stop at the halfway point along the top edge.

Step 17

Pull your opening pick out to a depth of 3 mm.
Slide your pick to the top right corner to slice the rest of the top edge adhesive.
Don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm to avoid damaging the antenna housing graphite tape.

Step 18

Remember to angle your picks upward and away from the frame during this step.
Roll the top edge pick so its flat edge is under the rear cover.
Roll the picks on each side of the camera bar so their flat edges are under the camera bar.

Step 19

There's a long strip of adhesive securing the rear cover below the camera bar.
Use the opening picks under the camera bar to pry the top edge of the rear cover from the frame.
Pry back and forth until the camera bar loosens.
Be careful not to bend the rear cover. Only pry enough to loosen the adhesive near the camera bar. If the adhesive feels stubborn, rotate the rear cover side-to-side to further loosen the adhesive.

Step 20

Slide the opening picks from the camera bar down the long edges of the rear cover to separate any adhesive that may have resealed.

Step 21

Remove the rear cover.
During reassembly:
Now is a good time to test your phone before sealing it up. Power it on and check that it works. Power it back down before you continue reassembly.
Follow this guide to apply new adhesive and install your rear cover.

Step 22

Apply a heated iOpener to the flash unit for one minute to soften the adhesive securing it to the logic board cover.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or heat gun to warm the flash.
Only heat the flash so it's warm to the touch. The battery and surrounding components are susceptible to heat damage.

Step 23

Be careful not to slip and tear the flash cable, as it's very fragile.
Slide your pick under the right edge of the flash to separate the adhesive securing it to the cover.

Step 24

If the copper tape lifted away with the flash, use tweezers or your fingers to remove the black foam residue from the logic board cover.

Step 25

Be careful not to damage the battery with your tool during this step.
Apply a heated iOpener to the underside of the flash for one minute.
Hold the neck of the flash cable steady and use tweezers to peel and remove the copper tape from the flash unit.
If the copper tape stayed on the logic board cover and you have a replacement, remove the old tape now.

Step 26

During reassembly:
Make sure the small foam spacer is still in the middle of the flash recess in the logic board cover. If not, stick it back to the middle.
Peel the copper tape from the large adhesive liner.
Place the copper tape face-down onto the flash, with the cutout toward the neck of the cable.
Remove the blue liner to expose the adhesive.
Press the flash into place.

Step 27

While the Pixel 7a uses Torx Plus screws, standard Torx bits work. Make sure to apply constant, downward force to prevent stripping.
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the thirteen 4.3 mm 3IP Torx Plus screws securing the logic board cover.
Use a T2 Torx driver to remove the 1.5 mm 1IP Torx Plus screw securing the right edge of the cover.

Step 28

Insert an opening pick between the bottom right corner of the logic board cover and the frame.
Pry up to release the clip securing the cover.

Step 29

Slowly lift the top edge of the logic board and thread the flash unit through its cutout.
During reassembly, thread the flash through its cutout as you lower the logic board into place.

Step 30

Remove the wireless charging assembly.

Step 31

Use your T2 Torx driver to remove the 1.5 mm 1IP Torx Plus screw securing the connector cover.
Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the cover.
During reassembly, place the upper left corner of the cover under the hook on the logic board before installing its screw.

Step 32

The Verizon model (G0DZQ) Google Pixel 7a has an extra cable and connector for the 5G mmWave antenna. Unless otherwise mentioned, the rest of the guide procedure is the same for either type of phone.

Step 33

Insert the flat end of a spudger under the top edge of the battery press connector.
Pry straight up to disconnect the battery press connector.
To reconnect a press connector, align it over the socket and gently press down on one side until it clicks into place, then press down on the other side. It might take a few tries to align the connector.

Step 34

Use your T3 Torx driver to remove the 4.3 mm 3IP Torx Plus screw securing the earpiece speaker to the frame.

Step 35

Lift the bottom edge of the earpiece speaker upward.
Pull the speaker toward the bottom of the phone to free the red gasket from its cutout in the frame.
Remove the speaker.

Step 36

Use your T3 Torx driver to remove the two 4.3 mm 3IP Torx Plus screws securing the antenna housing to the frame.
During reassembly, hold the housing down while you fasten the screws.

Step 37

Insert an opening pick between the top left corner of the antenna housing and the frame.
Pry up to release the clips securing the housing.
During reassembly, hold the graphite film out of the way before inserting the housing.

Step 38

Lift the bottom leg of the antenna housing and pull the top edge out from the frame.
Remove the housing.

Step 39

Verizon models: Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the 5G mmWave press connector.

Step 40

Apply a heated iOpener to the front-facing camera for one minute to soften the copper tape adhesive.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or heat gun to soften the adhesive. Only heat the tape until it's warm to the touch.

Step 41

Be careful not to touch the rear camera lenses.
Insert the tip of an opening pick under the front-facing camera's copper tape.
Slowly peel up the tape from the logic board.
If the tape feels stuck, use a sharp tool such as angled tweezers to scrape up the edge of the tape until you can insert a pick underneath.

Step 42

Be careful not to touch the front-facing camera lens with your tool.
Insert the tip of your opening pick between the right edge of the front-facing camera cable and the frame.
If the pick can't slide under the cable, lightly heat the cable with a hair dryer or heat gun to soften the adhesive underneath.
Slide your pick underneath the cable to separate the adhesive securing it to the frame.

Step 43

Be careful not to touch the rear camera lenses.
Use the point of a spudger or your fingernail to pry up and disconnect the press connector just above the battery.
This connector is responsible for the power button, volume buttons, flash unit, and upper microphone.

Step 44

Insert your opening pick between the top right edge of the logic board and the frame.
Pry up to free the logic board from its recess.
Insert your pick in the gap near the white antenna cable and pry up the top left edge of the logic board.

Step 45

The logic board is delicate. Be careful not to bend it as you free the lower edge from the frame.
Lift the top edge of the logic board from the frame.
Pull the top edge of the logic board to the right of the frame so the cutouts of the board lift over the vibration motor and protrusions in the frame.
As you pull, guide the charging port out of its recess in the frame.
Don't fully remove the logic board yet, as it's still connected to the frame by the screen cable.
During reassembly, push the logic board toward the bottom of the frame and press the charging port down until the bottom edge sits flush with its protrusion in the frame.
Make sure the flash, front-facing camera, and press connector don't become trapped under the frame.

Step 46

The logic board might fall out of place during this step. Hold it steady, but avoid gripping it by any of the camera lenses or connectors.
Apply your suction handle to the left side of the screen with the handle facing down.
Prop up the phone so it stands upright.
If you don't have a suction handle, prop up the phone against a sturdy object, such as a heavy box or thick book.
Tilt the logic board down and lay it flat. Move any cables out of the way, if necessary.
Be careful not to touch the thermal pads on the underside of the logic board.

Step 47

Use your T3 Torx driver to remove the 2 mm 3IP Torx Plus screw securing the screen connector cover.
Remove the cover.
During reassembly, hook the bottom edge of the cover into its slot on the logic board before installing its screw.

Step 48

Use the flat end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the screen press connector.
The tension in this cable makes it tricky to reconnect. If necessary, hold the neck of the cable in place with tweezers and align it over the socket before pressing down to secure it.

Step 49

Remove the logic board from the frame.

Step 50

If the front sensor rubber gasket stayed on the frame or became misaligned, remove it and set it aside.
During reassembly, place the gasket over the front sensor on the logic board, with the smaller cutout toward the top.
Avoid touching the sensor with your fingers or tool.

Step 51

During reassembly:
If you're reusing your logic board and the thermal pad is damaged, remove the old thermal pad, clean the surface, and apply a new one.
If you have a new logic board and it doesn't come with a thermal pad pre-installed, apply the new thermal pad now.

Step 52

Use the flat end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect both rear camera press connectors from the logic board.

Step 53

If your work surface is dirty or uneven, put the logic board on a towel or lint-free cloth to protect it.
Flip the logic board over.
Use tweezers to peel the silver conductive fabric connecting the rear camera bracket to the logic board.

Step 54

Remove the rear camera assembly, being careful not to touch the camera lenses.
During reassembly, angle the assembly downward so the press connectors go under the logic board and the tab on the left of the bracket is above the logic board.

Step 55

The wide camera is adhered to the rear camera bracket.
Use blunt nose tweezers or your fingers to pry the top edge of the camera from the bracket.
Remove the wide camera.