Google Pixel 2 Charging Assembly Replacement

Written By: Adam O'Camb

Comments: 64

Google Pixel 2 Charging Assembly Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

This repair guide was authored by the iFixit staff and hasn’t been endorsed by Google. Learn more about our repair guides here.

Use this guide to replace the charging assembly. The charging assembly contains the USB-C port and is connected to the vibration motor.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass. This also makes a smooth surface allowing the suction cup to bond.
Apply a suction cup as close to the volume button edge of the phone as you can while avoiding the curved edge.
The suction cup will not make a good seal on the curved portion of the glass.

My screen is severly cracked. I would recommend clear packaging tape as it is wide enough to accomodate the suction cup. Thinner cellophane tape won’t seal properly.

John Tippitt - 18/08/20

Does the Google Pixel 2 have be powered off before removing the digitizer screen? Its not mentioned in this article...

Will the phone be damaged if the power is still on when disconnecting the broken screen?

Alex -

Replacing the battery in my Pixel 2 was successful because I read the comments. They are invaluable in this endeavor.

David Castro -

Suggest procedure revision:

Step 1: Read all steps and associated comments before proceeding.

Step 2: Ensure they supplied you with the right F$%^ING TOOLS in the kit before proceeding.

I'm F$%^ED because any store around me that might have this T4 Torx bit is already closed and my screen is already off. My kit came with a T2 Torx bit which is not used anywhere in this entire process.

Jens Davidsen -

I bought one of the kits and it had everything needed to change the battery except the alcohol, including spudgers, screwdriver, torx (2 sizes), tweezer, alcohol dispenser, glue strips and die-cut glue card that fit the phone case perfectly. I followed these instructions and read the comments. Applied alcohol and patience, took my time and got the job done without any damage to the phone. Thank you ifixit!

Jeffrey Price -

Step 2

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure and insert an opening pick between the front panel and rear case.
Do not insert the pick deeper than 1.5 mm, or you risk damaging the OLED panel.
This requires a significant amount of force and patience. If you have trouble, rock the suction cup and screen to weaken the adhesive, or apply heat with an iOpener, heat gun, or hair dryer.
The display panel is fragile. If you plan to re-use your display, take care to insert your tool only as far as necessary to separate the adhesive. Inserting the tool any further can damage the OLED panel under the glass.

They cannot emphasize enough how careful you need to be when separating the screen. The iOpener does not work well enough to prevent breakage (opinion). I spent a majority of the hour and forty five minutes replacing my battery on removing the screen, i.e. reheating the iOpener, warming the device, slowly, with multiple passes, separating the adhesive. Use a heat gun or blow dryer.

Devin McMillen - 10/10/19

How many passes do I need? I do have a heatgun but I’m afraid to discolor or damage the screen. Anyone know the best temp before stopping to seperate the screen?

Sen Lin - 05/12/19

try the alcohol as instructed instead of heat. “Do not heat your phone. If needed, you can use a dropper or syringe to inject isopropyl alcohol (90+%) around the edges of the back cover to weaken the adhesive. “

Rogerio Sa - 15/01/20

Make sure to remove the adhesive under the top and bottom speakers to make it much easier to remove the screen.

Chibi Chica - 09/08/20

Isopropyl alcohol works well to loosen the adhesive. However - GO SLOW. Slide the pick a bit, then apply some isopropyl alcohol into the gap where you’re sliding toward. Wait a moment, then slide a bit more. Move very slowly, particularly around the corners!

Raquel Smith - 12/08/20

Any idea on what to do when the suction cup pops off of the screen before there’s enough clearance to slide the pick in?

Douglas Leenhouts - 15/08/20

I used a hairdryer to weaken the adhesive. If you place your finger in the path of the hairdryer you’ll have a good idea of when too much heat has been applied (when your skin becomes unhappy at the temperature). BE VERY GENTLE. I cracked my screen because I didn’t weaken the adhesive enough. I also chipped(dog eared) the corner of the OLED screen underneath with one of the plastic tools. Don’t stick it in too far. As the guide says, use the flat edge or the pick to help control this.

Alex Lawson - 21/09/20

I did the 90% alcohol and the iOpener. Took a while but finally got the screen off. As others have mentioned, there is lots of adhesive around the top and bottom speaker openings. I ended up reaching in with a small brush and more alcohol to get it. I used a tooth pick to break the final adhesive.

I also had a set of dental tools and a set of magnifying goggles (I’m a model railroader) which helped greatly.

John Reagan - 14/03/21

Like others have said, THIS STEP IS THE MOST DANGEROUS!!! You must be extremely gentle (no real force should be necessary to separate the screen from the glue) with the screen and take your time. (IMO if it takes you less than 30 mins to get the screen loose, your going too hard at it). Two suggestions from my successful battery replacement that I can give, use alcohol instead of heat (seems to work better with this phone) and start with a much thinner plastic tool that is also flexible (I used a metro card from the NYC MTA). This will allow you to get at the tiny gap without using any significant force and then get some alcohol into the gap by dripping it down the thin plastic tool. Honestly, IFIXIT should make a small thin rectangular card to use for this with lines around it for measurements…

Aleksandr Demidenko - 14/03/21

The first pry to get the pick inside the edge of the screen needs A LOT OF HEAT and a very firm pull, and just as someone else mentioned, the iOpener did not work well, instead, a regular hair dryer proved more beneficial in applying a controlled amount of heat until its almost too hot to touch. Then, once the pick is inside 99% isopropyl alcohol worked wonders, use a syringe or dropper to apple some at the edge, wait for about 15 seconds and move the pick centimetre by centimetre. Make sure to not insert it more than 2mm at the sides. I took more than an hour just to get the screen off.

A Sid -

As an experienced (1) screen remover, I’d recommend that if you don’t plan to change your screen, change your plans. You will be less disappointed that way. I managed to get mine for just over $10 with shipping and test it first (weak Battery). Pixel 3’s (Not 3a or XL) sure look a lot better now. They have removable backs. My pixel 1st gen was a cheap lesson. Looking for another cheap one to try alcohol on.

Scott Graham -

Used a hairdryer on medium heat (very warm but not burning hot), suction cup, and applied isopropyl alcohol into crack made when applying pressure. Rinse and repeat until loosened enough to get a pick in. Took many attempts. Don't try to force the pick in, as you could chip the edge of the thin glass of screen this way. The suction cup pressure and weakened adhesive should do the work. Once the pick gets it, you can work a little faster but did the same basic steps minus needing the suction cup anymore, working around the edges. Good lighting is a must to see the crack forming.

Arthur Kay - 18/12/22

I have to disagree with folks who said this is the longest step of the whole process...for me...the longest step was having to drive around and find a T4 Torx bit because this kit came with a T2 Torx which proved absolutely USELESS...

The screen came off very easily with the liberal application of 90% Isopropyl Alcohol. Took around 15min to get the screen off and I hardly had to use picks except for the top and bottom.

That Torx bit though... F$%^ED ME

Jens Davidsen -

Step 3

In the following steps, extra caution is required in certain areas to avoid damage to the phone:
Do not insert the pick more than 9 mm into the bottom edge of the phone. If the pick contacts the folded portion of the OLED panel it can damage the display.
Only make very shallow cuts in the upper left corner, prying deeply can damage the front-facing camera.
Inserting an opening tool deeper than 1.5 mm into the sides of the device, or 9 mm into the top and bottom can permanently damage the display.

This is inaccurate. The Pixel 2 phone’s back comes in two parts: a plastic main section and a glass back upper section. Only the glass section is required to be removed to replace the camera. Once the glass back is removed, the camera can easily be replaced without removing the motherboard, battery, or any other components. What is picture here looks like the original Google Pixel Phone.

hunter alden - 19/08/20

Firstly, I disagree with hunter’s comment above - my Pixel 2 looked identical to this when I had it opened up.

Secondly, the whole thing about 1.5mm at the sides - literally scared the cr*p out of me when I started this as it’s such a tiny margin - but what this doesn’t say is that you can see these limits on your phone - just turn the screen on and it’s where the display ends - the digitiser starts there and is a couple of mm deep - hence the need to be careful. You can also see it (though less obviously) when you have the screen off - the jet black part at the edge is where the adhesive is - just make sure you don’t push in past there. It’s not like you can’t make very gentle contact with the digitiser when clearing the adhesive - I believe it’s just any kind of real pressure which will render the screen useless.

Dave Watts - 17/10/20

I think it would be helpful to highlight the adhesive patches around the microphone/speaker areas and that you do need to project your pick in quite a distance to break this adhesive. I think simply creating a highlighted tracing of all of the adhesive areas would be helpful and pretty simple to do. It is shown to some extent, but in my opinion it could be more clear. In all of the prefaced concerns for digging too deep, I spent extra time and effort carefully prying upward and cracked my screen and OLED rendering my phone useless. Eventually I decided to probe more deeply toward the mic/speaker and broke things loose which allowed me to remove the screen easily.

Matt Escher - 22/02/21

Yes your right. I didn't e that and I disassembly the scree from it's digitiser layer. If i would know in advanced the adhesive borders it wouldn't happened.

Ronen Stolarski -

I took my time but a few times I slipped in more than I wanted. No harm. The bottom is the more tricky. The adhesive around the bottom opening goes right up against the ribbon cable for the screen. I got the edges unglued with alcohol & iOpener. I then gently pried the screen away and reached in with a small brush and more alcohol. I then used a toothpick to break the last pieces of adhesive.

John Reagan - 14/03/21

Besides the adhesive at the edges, there are 2 rectangular shaped adhesive patches at the top (around the speaker) and bottom (around the microphone). These are pretty thick, but can be easily chipped away with the pick. You start to see these as you gently lift the screen upwards with the suction cup and peer inside (use a flashlight). I did not need to use a heat gun or blow dryer. Just the pick and some isopropyl alcohol.

Hasan Akhter - 18/04/21

Use isopropyl alcohol with a syringe at the top and bottom speaker to weaken the adhesive, gently pull apart (about 2mm) and use a finer piece of plastic (like a milky file plastic sheet) to cut through the adhesive at the speakers, but still do not take the screen off completely yet! After extensively reading about failed attempts to get the screen off (instances where people damaged the OLED underneath) one thing is in common: few devices have little adhesive underneath the ribbon cable as well, which people failed to notice and while separating the screen and in turn, damaged the OLED because of the pull from the ribbon cable. Thanks to having this information beforehand I found the same issue in my phone after I separated the screen (not completely) from the frame, I used a piece of finer sheet of plastic to cut the adhesive holding the ribbon cable. You will have to be extremely patient and take your time.

A Sid -

Word of warning - it is incredibly easy to slip and damage the ribbon cable at the back of the screen (where it folds over on the left in the image)! I accidentally did this removing the screen on my phone and it killed the touch functionality.

Joshua -

i spent probably 3 hours on this step only last night, incredibly difficult. turned out that the OLED itself was glued to the midframe which made it extra hard (and ended up breaking the screen in the process. I did buy the phone refurbished so I don't think they are all glued this way but it is definitely worth knowing.

Sally Bascombe -

Using 91% isopropyl alcohol worked way better than applying heat. Was applying heat for 20 minutes with no luck to get the initial opening. IPA did the job in 2 minutes. I would be cautious with how much alcohol you are dropping. Do not be too generous as some have mentioned and just drop along the edges at incremental distances. The alcohol will dissolve the grey foam in the picture with X marks and flatten it. Not that big of a deal but if you are picky about not damaging anything in the process you should be careful about it.

Bhavesh P -

Step 4

In the following steps, use the flat of the opening pick, rather than a corner, to cut here. This will help prevent inserting the pick too deeply.
Slide the opening pick up the right side of the phone to separate the display adhesive.
Take extra care with the side bezels, which are only 1.5 mm deep.

Step 5

Slide the opening pick around the upper-right corner and along the top edge of the phone.
There's a mesh covering the earpiece speaker on the top edge of the screen. If you don’t have a replacement mesh, take care not to damage or lose this component.

Leaving one pick inserted at each corner will help prevent it from sticking back.

A Sid -

Step 6

Slide the pick around the upper-left corner of the phone and down the left edge of the phone.

Step 7

Slide the pick around the bottom-left corner and along the bottom of the phone. Keep pick at a slight angle away from the screen to avoid damage to the OLED corners.
Take extra care not to insert the opening pick more than 9 mm to avoid damaging the OLED panel.

Step 8

Reinsert the pick at the top edge of the phone and gently pry up the display.
If the display doesn't readily lift, do some extra prying to separate the last of the adhesive. The adhesive near the upper speaker is thicker than other places.
Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as a fragile ribbon cable still connects it to the phone's motherboard.

This for me was by far the hardest step. What this guide fails to say is just how much adhesive you’ll encounter - mine was heaving with the stuff - so I wouldn’t attempt this fix without the rubbing alcohol, and I would be prepared to spend 30 mins on this - the images above make it look like as soon as you can get the pick in and around the whole phone the display will come off - this wasn’t true on mine, and I put a small crack in the top of my screen as I applied a little pressure to lever the top - the edges were ok, but there was so much adhesive at the top and bottom - right down and around the speaker grills - that I used scissors to cut the remaining strands as I managed to lift the screen higher enough! Don’t be shy with the rubbing alcohol, it really helps - and you really need to feel all sides loosen properly before you attempt to lever - but if you’re patient, it’ll be ok.

Dave Watts - 17/10/20

agree, way more adhesive at top and bottom than guide implies. go really slow on sides with thin plastic but top and bottom speaker needs a bigger dig

Erik Sorensen -

Step 9

Carefully lay the display down on top of the rear case as shown, making sure not to crease or tear the display ribbon cable.
Remove the two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws securing the display cable bracket.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

I cannot imagine how much easier this project would be if they provided the bit for this screw and the others of the same size. The torx bit included in my kit is a 2mm - entirely useless here. Only other bits are Philips...also pretty useless...

Jens Davidsen -

Step 10

Remove the display cable bracket.

Step 11

Use the point of a spudger to lift the display cable connector up and out of its socket on the motherboard.
Avoid touching the motherboard with the tip of your spudger. The components surrounding the socket are fragile.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.
If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.
During reassembly, pause here and replace the adhesive around the edges of the display.

Wow, I think I damaged my motherboard on this step. It would be helpful if there was a warning in this step to avoid doing that! Now my pixel 2 is reduced to a cool paperweight with a static display.

Zach Laporte - 07/12/20

Yep, there’s a small surface mounted component below the connector that is super easy to dislodge from the circuit board. Shown in this YouTube video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BEpgqpI.... Unfortunately, the part is smaller than a grain of sand, so not really practical for the average fixer to put back on the board.

jlyonsmith - 09/03/21

I also knocked the tiny chip off of the board while removing the ribbon cable in this step. Use the spudger exactly how it’s shown in the photos.

John Ware - 25/03/21

A spudger is the wrong tool to remove the video connector. You cannot see where you are poking with that tool and I wound up dislodging one of the surface mounted devices hidden by the connector and ruining the phone. I also broke a ground path near the corner of the middle frame that is not mentioned in this repair procedure. Watch this YouTube before you begin disassembly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yKULr67Z...

jamesdrobinson -

None of the tools provided in the repair kit seemed slim enough to fit the space required to pry this up. I ended up using a thin / flimsy plastic health care card to get under and pry up. It popped up with enough pressure.

Arthur Kay -

Step 12

Apply a heated iOpener to the proximity sensor on the top edge of the midframe for two minutes to soften its adhesive.

Isopropyl alcohol worked quickly for this

Raquel Smith - 12/08/20

Step 13

Slide the point of a spudger under the proximity sensor cable, starting from the side closest to the front-facing camera.
Gently lift the edge of the sensor cable until the sensor is perpendicular to the midframe.

This piece is actually glued down - heat and rubbing alcohol really helped as at first I couldn’t figure out why I couldn’t get it to move.

Dave Watts - 17/10/20

Step 14

Peel back the small piece of tape covering the screw below the earpiece speaker. Peel back any tape covering other screws as well.
Remove the following screws securing the midframe:
Eleven 3.7 mm Phillips screws
One 4 mm T5 Torx screw
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

On my Pixel 2, I also had to peel back a small strip of conductive tape that was directly above (and the same kind as) the “screw below the earpiece speaker” mentioned above. It appears to be a ground strap to the assembly underneath.

Jonathan Dubovsky - 24/12/19

Me too! Please change the photo?

Andrew Hoeveler - 01/06/20

If you don't peel the mesh tape up, it will year. I'm not sure if it plays into the screen potentially not working, but it seems to be a ground for the midframe and the display ribbon has a ground contact to the

Wesley Krueger - 12/07/20

Many of the screws would not come out due to the original threadlocker on the threads. I found that if I just kept moving them around with a toothpick, I could get the out. I also had one of those telescoping magnetic bolt grabbers that pulled the screws out.

John Reagan - 14/03/21

Would be nice if they included the correct torx bit in the tool kit... mine came with a T2 Torx...pretty useless...managed to get the display ribbon cable free as those screws were surprisingly not super tight - got them with the included Philips bit...pretty F$%^ED right here

Jens Davidsen - 12/01/23

@JensDavidsen, I'm sorry to hear that the kit came with the wrong bit. We do everything we can to make sure that our tool kits are kitted correctly. I've gone ahead and forwarded your information over to CS so they can get this fixed for you. In the future, if you have any questions or concerns, don't hesitate to reach out to us directly.

Kris Rodriguez -

You will also need to peel up the grounding tape below the front camera from the right. Be careful about not being too aggressive else you might lose adhesion while putting it back. I used some glue to ensure it would stick again during reassembly.

Bhavesh P -

What kind of glue did you use? I suspect that a) it could change the contact of the ribbon, therefore hindering conductivity and b) that the glue might change over time, e.g. break down and cause side-effects.

arne -

Step 15

Insert an opening tool into the notch in the midframe near the hold button.
Pry the midframe up enough to create a gap between it and the phone case. The midframe cannot yet be completely removed.

This is to pop a securing tab out it's place

Wesley Krueger - 09/07/20

On re-assembly make sure the securing tab, near the notch you use to open it, is inserted back under the frame again - this caused me to have to re-open my phone as my screen didn’t sit back down properly after I had put everything back together.

Dave Watts - 17/10/20

It is more effort than I anticipated. I really thought I was going to break it, but it was fine.

John Reagan - 14/03/21

Step 16

Lift the midframe up starting from the bottom edge.
When the midframe starts to make about a 45° with the rest of the phone, lift the midframe straight up and away from the phone.
As you lift the midfame, carefully guide the proximity sensor through the small slot in the midframe.

While not shown here in the photo, there is a short braided cable between the midframe and the motherboard near the front facing camera that prevents separating the midframe completely (ground?). Be careful not to damage this cable when completing the remaining steps or carefully remove before trying to separate the midframe completely.

ericdowens - 01/12/19

As ericdowens says above, there’s a small silver sliver of a connector (next to the front-facing camera). The guides on youtube said it was a grounding wire. This guide doesn’t mention it. Mine broke when I removed the midframe. No big deal. I stuck it back down with some tape when I put it all back together. Phone works fine.

Alex Lawson - 21/09/20

I had a heck of a time levering up the midframe. I had popped the side with the opening tool, but the other side was really stuck. I used some alcohol along the edge thinking there was some adhesive. Not sure. I eventually used a dental pick to pop it loose.

And when reinstalling, don’t forget to move the short braided cable back out of the way so you don’t trap it inside.

John Reagan - 14/03/21

STOP! Before you lift the midframe, the ground strap mentioned by ericdowens and Alex Lawson definitely will break if you don’t remove it from the midframe before lifting. I didn’t quite know what they were talking about, so thought I’d look for it as I was lifting the midframe, as I was sure if I was careful I’d spot it before it would break. I was very gentle, and I still broke it before realising what they were talking about. Look for some silver mesh tape on the midframe, near the forward-facing camera, same kind of tape as over the screw shown in Step 14. I’m going to try and carefully tape mine back together as Alex Lawson did, but it will be very fiddly, wish I hadn’t broken it in the first place!

Jamie Lamb -

I broke mine... then proceeded to pilfer about 2mm worth of the tape depicted in step 18 because it's a silvery adhesive.

Jens Davidsen -

Step 17

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector.

This photo and tutorial doesn't show the shielding on the chips of the motherboard. And the glue…My pixel 2 had the volume button ribbon cable glued to the shielding. Carefully pry the cable off. Very carefully slide under it. Maybe use a little heat to soften the glue. You cannot just remove the motherboard with removing the ribbon cable for the volume buttons.

Austen - 08/03/21

Step 18

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the charging assembly connector.

There is a metal cover not shown here that covers the motherboard, on it the charging assembly is glued with a little adhesive. To remove it apply heat with the iOpener or a heat gun and carefully pull it with an spudger or a tweezer.

Quique García - 31/05/20

Step 19

Use the point of a spudger to pry the white antenna cable connector straight up and disconnect it from the charging assembly board.

Step 20

Use tweezers to pull the white antenna cable straight up and out of the metal clips on the board and out of the channel on the loudspeaker.
Move the cable to the left of the phone to keep it out of the way of the loudspeaker.
When reassembling your device, carefully reroute the antenna cable back in place.

Step 21

Use the tip of a spudger pry the black antenna cable connector straight up and disconnect it.

Step 22

Use tweezers to lift the black antenna cable out of its channel on the loudspeaker.
Move the cable toward the top of the phone to keep it out of the way of the loudspeaker.

Step 23

Use the tip of a spudger to gently push the speaker cable connector out of its socket horizontally, alternating pushing either side of the connector out a little bit at a time.

This step is correct but does not explain the design of the socket or the process needed to remove it very well. The two wires enter a socket that has a very thin (you will need a magnifier to see it well) edge. This is what is pulled out horizontally from the circuit board socket. The socket base remains on the board. It would be 2000% helpful if there was a photo showing a close-up of the socket base from the socket itself - together in the same photo. The good news is if you are replacing the charging port, the new board will have a socket base into which you can plug your socket.

James D Mc Kelvey - 30/01/20

I agree, broke the base when following the instructions as is but was lucky the new port board has a base

Sid - 07/06/20

Step 24

Use an opening tool to pry the loudspeaker assembly up slightly from its recess in the phone.
Hold the silver charging assembly cable out of the way while you're working, but be careful not to bend it too far or apply too much strain where it connects to the charging assembly.

Step 25

Rotate the top right corner of the loudspeaker toward the top of the phone while sliding the whole assembly to the right.
Remove the loudspeaker.

Step 26

Remove one 2.4 mm Phillips screw.

Step 27

Use an opening tool the gently lift the vibration motor and separate it from the adhesive holding it to the phone.
Do not try to remove the motor—it's still attached to the charging assembly.

Step 28

Use the point of a spudger to lift the top of the charging assembly away from the phone.
Do not completely remove the charging assembly yet. It is still attached to the vibration motor.

Step 29

Make sure the vibration motor is not adhered to the phone, then gently lift the charging assembly out of the the phone, lifting the motor out at the same time.
Remove the microphone board and transfer it to the new charging assembly.
If you wish to remove the vibration motor, you have to desolder its wires from the charging assembly board.

In the last step, the microphone board is attached to the charging assembly and needs to be removed and placed on the new assembly when replacing.

Adam Wellner - 27/09/19

I wish I could highlight your comment or get the original author to point this out in an image. I didn’t check this the first time through and had to pull the phone back apart to add the mic onto the new charging assembly.

(My mistake for not checking the boards against each other carefully - all other instructions were so thorough, I didn’t feel the need at the time to verify.)

Aubrey Apperson - 27/01/21

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

Author

Adam O'Camb

Member since: 11/04/15

195421 Reputation

3 comments

I’m fairly disappointed with this. It didn’t say that the microphone chip had to be transferred to a new part. This caused me to take this phone apart twice.

fatkidadventure - 22/12/19

In step 11, make sure to list the connector from the side. I just rendered my phone useless by damaging one of the micro-components at the bottom of the connector socket. :(

Sebouh - 06/09/20

Is the charging assembly PCBA really responsible for battery charging?

Or is it just supplying the 5V from the charger thru the flex to the motherboard, which is in fact responsible for the charging?

There are additional "data" pins on the battery, which I suppose are also used during charging to report battery temperature etc., but these pins are not directly connected to the flex connector.

So I think that the motherboard is responsible for charging.

My phone is not charging, but i can measure the 5V from the USB on the motherboard connector at the end of the flex. Will it help to change the charging assembly?

Kib Bul -