Fix a motherboard with failed NVIDIA graphics chip

Written By: Pilo
  • Comments: 78
Fix a motherboard with failed NVIDIA graphics chip

Difficulty

Very difficult

Steps

22

Time Required

No estimate

Introduction

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    • Use your fingers to push both battery release tabs away from the battery, and lift the battery out of the computer.

    Before start, make a clone of your old HD into the new one, if you don't want to initiate a fresh copy. (Carbon Copy software is good).

    ColmillodeChile -

    Besides using WD 500GB models, are the WD 640GB and WD 750GB (the 9.5mm thickness model) good to go for? I am still considering as I have heard from other websites on the computer does not draw enough power to power up the 640 and 750 as it has the clicking sound and the rainbow keeps appearing. Anyone has install one before yet?

    Please advice. Appreciated! Thanks a million to all the Mac gurus out there!

    Danny Lim -

    Quote from ColmillodeChile:

    Before start, make a clone of your old HD into the new one, if you don't want to initiate a fresh copy. (Carbon Copy software is good).

    What is this about removing the PRAM battery causing a reinitialization of the HDD? For serious?

    Adrian -

    No, that's nonsense

    max damage -

    Quote from Adrianthomaspre:

    What is this about removing the PRAM battery causing a reinitialization of the HDD? For serious?

    Wait, I misunderstood you. I thought the comment was directed at the PRAM battery removal page. Silly me.

    Nevermind. Yes, it is always a good idea to backup one's data before doing stuff like this. I never do, and have never had any problems, but it's still a good idea.

    Adrian -

    The two screws removed in step 3 should not be mixed with screws in steps 5 through 7. Though similar, they are actually slightly shorter and have a bigger head. If you put the longer screws back in here when reassembling, the button to unlatch the top will not work properly.

    Doug -

    Quote from Doug:

    The two screws removed in step 3 should not be mixed with screws in steps 5 through 7. Though similar, they are actually slightly shorter and have a bigger head. If you put the longer screws back in here when reassembling, the button to unlatch the top will not work properly.

    I think you may have commented on the wrong page. This page only has 3 steps, and the screws are removed in step 2, not 3.

    (MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Models A1226 and A1260 RAM Replacement)

    Don -

    I'm not sure how the user notes get attached to the various procedures here, but my comment does seem to show up properly when viewing the steps for Hard Drive Replacement. However, the number of the step may be off if viewed as part of another procedure.

    Quote from Don:

    I think you may have commented on the wrong page. This page only has 3 steps, and the screws are removed in step 2, not 3.

    (MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Models A1226 and A1260 RAM Replacement)

    Doug -

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    • Remove the three identical 2mm Phillips screws from the memory door.

    • Lift the memory door up enough to grip it and slide it toward you, pulling it away from the casing.

    These screws are different from the rest, they should be kept separate from the others.

    foregoing-celery -

    Replacing RAM on an A1226: The instructions said Phillips #00, but the screwdriver that fit the RAM Shield screws for me was a Phillips #0.

    dlyons -

    Concur, my screws were Phillips #0 as

    Lee Haelters -

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    • Remove the two 2.8 mm Phillips screws in the battery compartment near the latch.

    These screws are different from the rest, they should be kept separate from the others.

    foregoing-celery -

    Keep these two Philips screws separate. The screws are approximately 0.5mm shorter in length. When using one or two of the other longer screws in the battery compartment when reassembling, the lid will not open because the screw(s) do yam the lid button.

    Peter van Nes -

    I had a logic board replaced by Apple (bad nVidia GPU), and believe it or not the Apple tech mixed up the screws. My latch did not work as good until I discovered and swapped the misplaced screws.

    madmaxmedia -

    No believe it or not about it! I had same board replacement job done, and a screw was angled and crossthreaded, and the memory cover was hacked into place with insulating sheet lifted and crumpled.

    Lee Haelters -

    I removed the memory here as you would normally if you were changing it.

    Mike Matthias -

    Use #00 phillips bit

    Jace -

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    • Remove the following 6 screws:

    • Two 10 mm T6 Torx screws on either side of the RAM slot.

    • Four 14.5 mm Phillips screws along the hinge.

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    • Remove the four 3.2 mm PH00 Phillips screws on the port side of the computer.

    If you are using a muffin pan to keep removed parts separate (a method I recommend highly), note that Steps 5, 6, and 7 involve removing the same size screw—and thus you can put them all in the same pile. This is unlike just about every other part you will remove during this procedure.

    Matt McCaffrey -

    Using shot glasses!

    peterbcpa -

    If you are a mac newbie like me take care when you reassemble not to insert a screw in the DVI display port screw holes (shame). I cannot manage to get it out anymore.

    tai manu -

    I did the same thing once, and eventually got it out. Try tweezers, a screwdriver, magnets, holding the MBP on its side so gravity is working with you, etc. Eventually the little bugger will come out, you just have to keep working at it.

    madmaxmedia -

    It would be a good idea to put some sticky tape on those two DVI display port holes, so that you never make the mistake to insert (when reassemble) any of the screws!

    genik -

    RE: Misplaced Screws in the DVI port, I was upgrading an early 2008 MacBook Pro with an SSD to get some more life out it, and sure enough, misplaced one of these small screws into the DVI port upon reassembly. Screwdrivers, shaking, gravity... nothing worked. UNTIL I went to my dad's house and his super-comprehensive workbench, where he found a small, high-pull magnet and the little bugger flew right out. Refrigerator magnets won't cut it, you will need a more powerful magnet, such as these: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?...

    Hope this helps someone... it was an easy solution to a frustrating problem

    John Lee -

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    • Rotate the computer 90 degrees and remove the two 3.2 mm Phillips screws from the rear of the computer.

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    • Rotate the computer 90 degrees again and remove the four 3.2 mm Phillips screws from the side of the computer.

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    • Do not yank the upper case off quickly. The case is attached to the logic board via a ribbon cable.

    • Lift up at the rear of the case and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case.

    • There are four plastic clips above the DVD slot, and another above and to the left of the IR sensor. These clips can be very difficult to disengage without prying. They can also be difficult to re-engage during reassembly.

    • Reassembly Tip: Press down firmly on the tip of the top case above the location of each clip until you hear a snap to reseat them in their slots.

    • Reassembly Tip: The two center DVD clips will rarely snap back into place properly without help, and downward pressure will instead simply deform the frame around the DVD slot. Support the frame by inserting a plastic spudger into the DVD slot directly under the clip location until it is snug, then press down until you hear the snap.

    The clips above the DVD slot (below the deck palm rest) are an absolute bear. They're hard to get released, and even harder to get back locked when you reassemble. (I've read to tilt the deck toward you when reassembling, inserting the front edge first, and press about an inch back from the edge to get all the front clips locked first before lowering the rest (back) of the deck.) No success for me yet, best of luck.

    sonofray -

    I thought these two videos did an excellent job of showing the technique of removing and replacing the drive.

    MacBook Pro/PowerBook Keyboard Replacement (Part 1 of 3):

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUonF9OSv...

    MacBook Pro/PowerBook Keyboard Replacement (Part 3 of 3):

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JWeFXWXpp...

    After watching that, I had the keyboard replaced in 2 minutes.

    Chris -

    the technique you describe of putting the front down first, is exactly what I did and it worked well

    dillonsavard -

    Those clips on the front edge are very challenging. I have a set of nylon pry tools that are for taking apart car dashboards without scratching the vinyl or plastic. I was able to get a long one in from the side and twist it which freed the clips without damaging the plastic on the upper case or the aluminum on the lower case.

    Putting it back together presented another challenge. When I first re-assembled it I think I pushed too hard over the DVD slot and accidentally bent the metal down. I was able to bend it back up using a thicker part of those same nylon pry tools, and then i was able to get it snapped back down successfully. Had I known this would happen, I would have just put the nylon tool in the slot to reinforce the metal as I was snapping the case back down.

    Nick -

    As everyone has said, the front clips by the DVD can be really tight. Use the spudger to pry the top and bottom halves apart. Slow work it in from one side to separate the top and bottom.

    When reassembling the case, work the front clips by the DVD drive back in first. Once you slide them back in, the rest of the case fits easily.

    Ted Wise -

    i've used an old atm card, it works fine.

    rotarypot -

    I had a lot of trouble with getting those clips to lock in place again when reassembling. The way I eventually did it was to wedge something into the front of the CD/DVD slot so that I wouldn't warp the laptop casing. I used the end of a pen; when wedged in the tip of the pen was the right height to not support the casing above and below the CD/DVD slot and not allow it to warp.

    I simply ensured the pen was aligned with one particular clip, lifted the laptop slightly, and squeezed the top and bottom edge of the laptop casing very firmly at that point. Each clip clicked in quite easily doing it this way. Just remember to move the pen (or whatever you are using) along to whichever clip you are clicking in.

    David -

    You're on the right track David. But what works really good is something that gets more surface area contact than the pen--I carefully insert a stack of 3" square post-it notes about 3/8" into the slot. And because they're stacked, you can easily add/subtract post-its to get as tight a fit as possible. Then, assuming you have everything lined up, use quite a bit of downward pressure. You should hear a few snaps as the clips reseat.

    Quote from David:

    I had a lot of trouble with getting those clips to lock in place again when reassembling. The way I eventually did it was to wedge something into the front of the CD/DVD slot so that I wouldn't warp the laptop casing. I used the end of a pen; when wedged in the tip of the pen was the right height to not support the casing above and below the CD/DVD slot and not allow it to warp.

    I simply ensured the pen was aligned with one particular clip, lifted the laptop slightly, and squeezed the top and bottom edge of the laptop casing very firmly at that point. Each clip clicked in quite easily doing it this way. Just remember to move the pen (or whatever you are using) along to whichever clip you are clicking in.

    John Kassler Niemann -

    John, I didn't think of that. But yeah you are right, it would give it a lot more support.

    David -

    I have none of the problems above just was very careful, but inserting the palm rest in first does most of the work , gently does it looking at the alinement of the clips as you go straight in she goes!

    swissgrip -

    I would agree with everyone that the clips above the DVD drive are very temperamental. They came off easily for me but were a pain getting to clip back in place correctly.

    Make sure you have the front clipped on securely before screwing the case back together otherwise the lid will not close properly.

    Nicolas -

    I have taken apart quite a few laptops but this is my first Mac. This confirms my statements, to anyone that will listen, that these are the most "exquisite" machines ever produced. I just performed these HDD Replacement steps and with appropriate fear and trepidation popped the clips off. It would have been very helpful if someone had mentioned that they come straight up. I wasn't sure so I wiggled and (carefully) pried with the spudger until one of them went "POP". The credit card idea was helpful but my card was pretty soft so I didn't dare use it with too much force. When I got the top cover loose I just leaned it back against the screen so as not to take a chance on damaging the cable. Reassembly was according to the notes, but again the spudger was perfect if inserted into the drive slot (careful on the felt!) to support the base of the clips. Thanks to all for the notes. BTW; Prayer helps!

    mikedotten331 -

    There is a fifth plastic clip between the IR sensor and the screw hole. (ie. 1 cm left of the IR sensor)

    foregoing-celery -

    On the top of the case mark the center of each of the four clips that are over the CD slot and the one clip to the left of the latch with a pencil. When re-installing the top case apply pressure over the clip to the left of the latch until you hear a snap. For the four clips over the CD slot, upend the entire case. Then insert the flat end of the spudger into the CD slot under the center of each clip. Apply pressure from the top of the case while providing support with the spudger in the CD slot until the clip snaps in. This will minimize the chances of bending the CD slot which would prevent CDs from ejecting.

    danno -

    Take care reassembling new the DVD drive. It's easy to bend the top piece of metal down (the one that engages the clips) and your DVD can get stuck occasional ejecting. Very annoying. Maybe give it a little prophylactic bend upward. I placed a blunt letter opener in the slot and torqued it, while applying downward pressure from the top deck... This allowed the clips to engage nicely without bending this piece down.

    davidkkim -

    I use the iSesamo tool to loose the clips, its a very good tool for this and many other things (I don´t work for iSesamo or iFixit hehe).

    araujogac -

    i've used both of my inch nails, it works fine as well. no trouble to report.

    Caroline Masson -

    i used a pry tool i had left over from replacing the screen on my iphone, any flat stiff item, like a credit card would work. watch the youtube video linked above, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUonF9OSv..., skip ahead in the video to 4:57 where you see her use a pry tool. I had no problem separating and reassembling this section. Only issue i had was the two screws in the battery area. Only one of them would grab, so I left the other one out.

    owenmhv -

    Here is an additional video showing how to remove the cables for both the left and right fans. At time 2:00 in the video he starts to work on the left fan. This video will help prevent you from attempting to detach the cables incorrectly.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=apn3j3mAR...

    owenmhv -

    I've opened these up many, many times, and by far the easiest method I have found to disengage the front clips is as follows:

    Lift up the top case by the rear corners near the hinge, keep lifting so the top case is tilting towards you. You will feel some resistance, but keep lifting and you will hear the clips disengage with a 'snap'. Doing it this way should not bend the top case metal or loosen the spacing between the top case metal and plastic trim. The clips will not break, they will still engage when you put the top case back on.

    It basically takes me 5 or 10 seconds to take off the top case now, and the case goes back on nice and tight as before.

    YMMV and all that, but that's my experience.

    madmaxmedia -

    Thank you for all the advance warnings, I had no issues with replacing the case. It just snapped into place with a little help from the spudger.

    acuella -

    You're welcome! I was the one who added the spudger tips, as I had a devil of a time making the DVD drive clips snap back into place without one when I followed this guide.

    CaptFrost -

    Hello,

    I didn't have much problems reassembling the MacBook. Thanks a lot!

    For the hard reassembly part with the clips: I pushed quite hard with both thumbs directly over the place where the clips are. You need to figure out exactly where they are, but it worked well.

    I repeat it to make it clear: I pushed from the top on the location under which the clip sat, with two thumbs after having checked that the lid was well in place.

    My tools were one spudger and a basic tech toolkit from iFixit.

    Thanks a lot!

    momogingins -

    I had not problem easing GENTLY the top case from the computer even around the DVD but I didn't understand how easy it was to disconnect the top case from the mother board. TAKE CARE HERE. It will make reassembly much easier it YOU get to disconnect the plug. See my note on step nine

    reb -

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    • Disconnect the trackpad and keyboard ribbon cable from the logic board, removing tape as necessary.

    • Note: It is possible to replace the hard drive without disconnecting the keyboard from the chassis, but it will need to be held upright to keep it out of the way, while still allowing you both hands to work on the drive removal.

    • Be careful when removing the keyboard-trackpad ribbon cable to ensure that the rear of the upper case is disengaged from the area near the hinge. It is easy to accidentally bend the screw receivers on either side of the keyboard.

    • Remove the upper case.

    If you does not have the spudger, use the Dremel to file a wooden piece

    (Chinese stick maybe) to transform in a spatula. Works fine for me

    ColmillodeChile -

    If you don't have the magic "spudger," try using a plastic (eating) knife.

    jpkjpkjpk -

    I read that you can actually also use the corner of a credit card. I didn't have a spudger and this worked perfectly for me. If you hold the card quite close to the corner and it has just the right amount of flex.

    David -

    You may be able to unplug the ribbon connector by lifting each end of the tape.

    MrSafety -

    Where can I get the cable from step 9 above?

    just broke it!

    Derry Manley -

    That cable is attached to the upper case. It can be found here for the A1226 and here for the A1260.

    Andrew Bookholt -

    To unplug the cable, pull the black connector straight up from the logic board.

    Robert MacLeay -

    These are instructions for the right Fan. Step 9 mentions the hard drive not the right fan.

    karen -

    I didn`t need to unplugged the cable to change the right fan. As Karen wrote above, it is for a fan to change not necessary.

    Caroline Masson -

    I chose not to disconnect this ribbon cable. I used a chopstick to prop open the front panel; just gently place in lower right corned of case and upper right corner inside the top panel. Saves the risk of disconnecting.

    jimmora -

    I didn't look well before the plug connecting top case to motherboard (see my note in step 8). When it came time for assembly it took a while for me to figure out when the plug connected in the motherboard. Take care on step 8 so that YOU have to make the disconnection in step 9. Then reassembly on this step will be much easier.

    reb -

    Step 9, 2007 Mac Book Pro right fan replacement. It’s not necessary to disengage the keyboard ribbon, you can just tilt the upper shell back and support it against the screen. Be sure not to put tension on the ribbon and to check that the ribbon “plug” is seated securely on the base before reinstalling the top shell.

    These instructions were really great. For $15 I got a used fan off eBay and a Torx T6 driver and Phillips 00 driver from the hardware store. Thanks also for the comment about marking where the plastic clips are by the DVD and IR slot with pencil. When reassembling I slotted a piece of wood (kebab skewer) into the DVD slot and pressed down on the pencil mark with the eraser end of the pencil.

    My 10 year old MacBook Pro is going strong. Thanks for these very much. It was fun to do as well.

    Kirsten -

    Hello, I have a MacBook like this but I have seen that in the part of the RAM on the right there is an elongated chip, I don't have it, that could cause the problem of no connection, what is the name of that chip, thank you

    Trepas -

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the orange SuperDrive ribbon cable from the logic board, removing tape as necessary.

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    • Remove the following 4 screws:

    • Two 3.3 mm silver Phillips screws on either side of the SuperDrive.

    • One 4.7 mm silver T6 Torx screw from the top left corner of the drive.

    • One 6.2 mm black Phillips screw at the top right corner of the drive.

    • Lift the optical drive up and out of the computer.

    The bent metal clip on the right hand side can make the drive seem stuck, even once all 4 screws are removed. You can tilt the drive forward and gently wiggle it up and down to see the clip coming out, and pull by the clip to remove the drive.

    Matt Gorbet -

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    • Disconnect the hard drive and ExpressCard connectors from the left side of the logic board.

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    • Disconnect the iSight and display data cables from the logic board by sliding them straight back out of their connectors, removing tape as necessary.

    Where are the images for step 13, Step 15 and Step 18?

    Without them it makes the rest of the guide useless

    werbinik -

    For the cable on the right, about 1/2" ribbon cable, you have to slide the black bar near the screen back toward the screen to get the cable out safely.

    Kate Clair -

    for that little tiny connector on the left: look carefully at it and you will see a line running down it, creating a backward C on the right. You have to gently get the smudge tool it at the bottom left and angle it a bit, this is where it will come apart.

    Kate Clair -

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    • Disconnect the eight indicated connectors by placing a spudger beneath the wired side of each one and lifting up.

    • Use care when disconnecting some of the smaller connectors. A forceful prod with the spudger may accidentally break them off the logic board.

    i managed to break the connectors for the left side ambient light sensor and the right side thermal sensor while attempting this step, i was trying to remove the logic board in order to attempt to reflow the gfx chip as my laptop has been dead with that issue for a year or two, will it run when i put it back together without these?

    Jack Davidson -

    I also learned the hard way that you should not pop off the entire connector. The connector is a U-shaped holder (should remain attached to circuit board) and the piece with the wires that snaps into that holder. You may want to try using tweezers to hold the U-shaped piece down while slowly pry the wires and its piece out.

    mstreich -

    Its important that you DO NOT pry from the side opposite of the cable, as that is what will pull the connector off of the motherboard. If you look very carefully, the cable connector has the word "PUSH". If you pry from the cable side and gently lift the connector directly upward, it should disconnect smoothly.

    In fact, the word "pry" is very misleading...

    Liz Paglione -

    A gentle twisting motion of the flat end of the spudger seemed to work best.

    Liz Paglione -

    When reassembling be sure not to bury any of the various connector wires under the logic board.

    pprod -

    I also took off the entire connector. The instruction to put spudger beneath the connector is very misleading. You should put the spudger underneath the cable and turn to lift the cable head out of the connector. I was so confident in the instructions up until that point that I ignored my instinct.

    [deleted] -

    I also followed these instructions and broke off the ambient light sensor. Evidently, you should ONLY pry from the wired side of the connection.

    Brian Beardsley -

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    • Remove the foam bumper from the top of the right hinge of the display.

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    • Remove the silver 9.5 mm T6 Torx screw securing the ground loop in the display data cable to the casing.

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    • Remove the single black 6 mm T6 Torx screw securing the upper portion of the logic board to the lower case.

    This is a torc6 screw not philips

    james2m -

    I've done this operation twice, and it was missing from my computer both times....

    Matt Gorbet -

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    • Peel up the orange Kapton tape securing the right thermal sensor cable to the logic board.

    right thermal sensor? I think it should be the Middle Thermal Sensor??

    PC Doc -

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    • Remove the following 15 screws:

    • One 4.4 mm black Phillips screw to the right of the ram slot.

    • Eight 4.7 mm silver T6 Torx screws securing the logic board to the lower case.

    • If you leave the five uppermost orange screws in place, the heatsink/pipes come out effortlessly, still mounted onto the main board. That way its thermal connection is retained, and you won't need to reapply thermal paste as instructed two steps below.

    • One 6.2 mm black T6 Torx screw on the right side of the left fan.

    • Five 9.4 mm silver T6 Torx screws securing the left and right fans.

    The orange screws actually just secure the heat synch to the board, not the board to the case. You can leave them in as mentioned in the next step.

    Dave Bates -

    So let me get this straight, if you leave the upper 5 orange screws in, the heatsinks remain attached to the logic board? Does this mean that I won't need to apply new thermal paste in the proceeding steps?

    evankirsh -

    If you leave the upper 5 orange screws on, the heatsink/pipes come out effortlessly, still mounted onto the main board. That way the thermal connections are retained.

    Mike Matthias -

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    • Hold the logic board down with one hand and use your other hand to lift the left fan up from its housing. There is a piece of black tape securing the left fan to the heat sink. Carefully peel this tape up from the heat sink as you lift the left fan up.

    • Place the left fan above the Airport card. It is not necessary to remove the fan from the computer entirely.

    • Lift the right fan up and carefully peel up the tape securing the fan to the heat sink as you go.

    • Remove the right fan from the computer.

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    • Lift up the left side of the logic board and disconnect the gray and black power cable from the bottom of the board.

    • Pull the power cable connector parallel to the face of the logic board.

    • Grasp the logic board at the left side and at the thin section, and rotate the logic board out of the lower case.

    • If you detached the heatsink from the motherboard two steps above, you'll have to clean off and replace the old thermal compound from the chips on the back of the logic board. Use our Applying Thermal Paste Guide to prepare the processor and heat sink surfaces.

    The power cable slides out in the direction of the cable.

    chaphoto -

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    • Thanks to http://www.laptoprepair101.com/fix-lapto...

    • It fixed a MacBook Pro 15-Inch A1260 (Early 2008)

    • I have applied some liquid flux underneath the chip. Artikelnr. 472-345-30-L eclipse-dortmund.de (via Amazon)

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

Pilo

Member since: 19/05/15

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