Introduction
Security note:
Main voltage operated electrical devices may only be repaired by a qualified electrician.
There is a risk of injury if instructions are not properly followed. Be careful and heed all warnings.
With these instructions you will only open spade connectors, so that the risk is limited.
- Pull out the mains plug before starting.
- Do not pull the cables with force.
- When reassembling, rewire correctly and make sure the tabs are engaged in the connectors to prevent them from vibrating loose.
- If the cable or strands are defective, replace them.
Translation notice: This guide was written in German for the DC52 which is a version of the DC54 for the Central European market. The housing and the disassembly is the same for the DC54 and some more rare version (EDc47, DC48, DC78). Of course cable drum and motor are different due to other plugs and voltages.
The Dyson DC52 was the first vacuum cleaner that got by without a bag or filter (exchange). The dust is mainly removed by the physical effect of centrifugal separation. This makes it economical to operate, and there was also a 5-year manufacturer's guarantee. Now, about 10 years after its introduction, the first weaknesses are becoming apparent.
The instructions state that the device is not suitable for extracting large quantities of drilling or grinding dust. You should definitely pay attention to that. Because if the air is overloaded with dust, the degree of separation of the multi-stage cyclones decreases and the abrasive drilling dust ends up in the motor and in the HEPA filter.
A common failure is that the HEPA filter, which cannot be replaced by laypeople, becomes clogged and the suction power decreases.
Due to the reduced air flow, the motor becomes hotter and more stressed, or abrasive dust damages the motor directly.
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Remove the 8 Torx T15, 22mm pan head screws from the bottom…
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and the 2 22mm Torx T15 screws from the top.
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Press the button to release the dust container.
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Carefully press the locking lugs inwards with a screwdriver or by hand until the upper part with the suction tube can be folded further upwards.
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Then another 2 Torx T15, 18 mm cylinder head screws become visible, which are removed (they fasten the cable drum on the inside).
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Loosen the one PH2 screw of the intake manifold holder (it fastens the cable drum on the inside).
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Carefully pull the case halves apart. You now have the HEPA filter and the cable drum in the upper half and the motor in the motor capsule in the lower half.
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The upper part is clipped into the housing with 2 locking notches. Try to unhook with a screwdriver and some hand wiggling. Don't grab the HEPA filter too tightly as it is made of paper and is easily dented.
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The switch is on the cable drum. The cable is connected to a blade connector which is secured by a fine tab to prevent vibration from loosening it. If you press on the lug with a fine screwdriver, the connection can be released without too much force. Disconnect the black cable.
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Next to it is a long, black box in which the white cable is plugged. Press the lug with the screwdriver here as well and loosen the plug connection.
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Then carefully pull both cables out of the strain relief on the housing.
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Now you have mechanically and electrically separated the motor from the cable drum.
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To separate the cable reel and the HEPA filter, hold the HEPA filter carefully and turn the cable reel approx. 90° clockwise. Then both parts can be separated.
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Done. You have separated the essential main parts.
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The cable reel, the HEPA filter and the motor can be easily obtained as spare parts on the Internet. The filter is available for around 60 euros, the motor and cable drum for around 80 euros.
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During reassembly it can easily happen that the cable drum is stressed. In this case the vacuum works well but the cable will not automatically rewind if you press the button.
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Therefore you have to assure that the white notches (see step 7) fit in the corresponding openings and not being pushed deeper.
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Thighten the 2 Torx screws from step 4 and the PH2 screw from step 5 only very little. Always test the rewinding function of the cable. Only at the end if the rewinding works well, tighten these screws and close the lid with the suction tube.
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2 comments
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Thank you, it worked as described. The hardest part is step 7, as the white lugs are solidly part of the body and have no "give". Undoing them requires prising between the lug and the shell forcefully with a fine screwdriver to spring the shell locating tag off. There is then a lug down by the cable entry which is easily sprung with a fine screwdriver. For reassembly I was able to use fine snipe-nose pliers to grasp a piece of the white body through the opening on the switch side and pull the lug into position. The other lug was harder but I made a small hole in the lug with a small screwdriver and used it to drag the lug into position.
Chris P -