Stockholm/Vasastan and Hagastaden

Vasastan (formally Vasastaden) is a neighbourhood in north-central Stockholm, making up the northern part of the Norrmalm borough. It borders Östermalm to the east at Birger Jarlsgatan, Kungsholmen to the south-west.

Hagastaden is a neighbourhood under construction, just north of Vasastan. While it is in Solna municipality, it neighbours Vasastan.

Understand

Innovationen (The Innovation) is the tallest building of Hagastaden, finished in September, 2018.

The population of Vasastan is around 60,000, and the area is around 3 km². It is less busy than Norrmalm, with the classical city plan mostly preserved. Vasastan was built from the 1880s until the following decade, and exposes the development of art deco and early modernist architecture. Odenplan has become an important transportation hub as the Odenplan commuter train station opened in 2017. A main draw of Vasastan is alternative and second-hand shopping in small stores (with most of Stockholm's remaining shops for vinyl records), as well as art galleries.

Hagastaden is a neighbourhood under construction, scheduled to be finished around 2025. The dominant institution is the Karolinska University Hospital, with the Karolinska Institute. As of 2018, some buildings are opened, but most of the area is fenced off. The tallest building is Innovationen at 104 metres above ground level. The Helix planned to reach 120 metres.

Karlberg is a park in southern Solna, dominated by Karlberg Palace, which hosts the Swedish Military Academy. Most of the area is open to the public, and the waterfront is crowded in summer.

Get around

An aerial view of northern Vasastan from the Bonnier building

The area is well served by public transport. Beside the metro stations, there is a commuter rail (pendeltåg) station at Odenplan below ground, opened in 2017 and endowed with contemporary art.

Most places are within walking distance. Car parking lots are available but costly.

Cars must pay congestion tax when they pass the city border between Stockholm and Solna.

Traffic around Hagastaden is re-routed around the construction sites.

See

Stockholm Public Library

• 🌍 Stockholm Public Library (Stadsbiblioteket), Sveavägen 73 (T Rådmansgatan). A 1928 building in art nouveau style with a flair of early functionalism, designed by the famous Swedish architect Erik Gunnar Asplund, the interior of the cylinder-shaped main hall is spectacular, with three floors of bookshelves covering 360 degrees of circular wall. Books (both fiction and non-fiction) are available in many languages, including English and German. This museum does actually lend books, while the equally beautiful National Library of Sweden on Östermalm does not. 

Bonnierhuset and Bonniers konsthall

• 🌍 Bonniers konsthall, Torsgatan 19 (T S:t Eriksplan), ☎ [phone]. Open W 11:00-20:00, Th-Su 11:00-17:00 (closed during the summer). This exhibition hall, opened in 2005 by the Bonnier family, owners of Sweden's largest media empire, showcases Swedish and international contemporary art. Adults 40 kr. 
• 🌍 Jewish Museum, Hälsingegatan 2 (Judiska museet). Displays the history of the Jews in Sweden. 

Sven-Harry's Art Museum

• 🌍 Sven-Harrys konstmuseum, Eastmansvägen 10. An art museum opened in 2011, in a bold brass building. 

Carl Eldh's studio

• 🌍 Bellevue Park and Carl Eldh Studio Museum. The park gives an astounding view of Brunnsviken, a brackish bay. The Carl Eldh Studio Museum contains early 20th-century sculptures. 

Gustav Vasa kyrka

• 🌍 Gustaf Vasa kyrka. A neo-Baroque church built in 1906. While far from Stockholm's oldest church, it is one of the largest, with frequent concerts. 
• 🌍 Astrid Lindgren's home, Dalagatan 46. World famous writer of children's books Astrid Lindgren lived in this Stockholm apartment from 1941 until her death in 2002. Open for visitors since November 2015. Reservations only. See Astrid Lindgren tourism for related venues. 
• 🌍 Karlberg Palace (Karlbergs slott). The Karlberg Palace was built in 1632. Since 1792 it hosts the Military Academy, and the interior is usually not open to the public. The palace park is a pleasant place for picnics. 

Galleries around Hudiksvallsgatan

Several trendsetting galleries for contemporary art have opened around Hudiksvallsgatan in Vasastan (T St Eriksplan). Among them are:

• 🌍 brandstrom stockholm, Hudiksvallsgatan 6, ☎ [phone]. (updated Aug 2015)
• 🌍 Andréhn-Schiptjenko, Hudiksvallsgatan 8, ☎ [phone]. (updated Aug 2015)
• 🌍 Natalia Goldin Gallery, Hudiksvallsgatan 8, ☎ [phone]. (updated Aug 2015)
• 🌍 Nordenhake, Hudiksvallsgatan 8, ☎ [phone]. (updated Aug 2015)
• 🌍 ALP, Torsgatan 41. (updated Aug 2015)

Do

• 🌍 Vanadisbadet, Sveavägen 142. 07:00-20:00, May 1-Sept 15. An outdoor bath with a swimming pool, an exercise pool, and a toddlers' pool. 90 kr for adults, 70 kr for children, students and seniors. 

Buy

Records

For some odd reason, most of Stockholm’s second hand record shops are clustered in the area between Odenplan and St Eriksplan. Most are open M-F 11:00-18:00, Sa 11:00-15:00. Some examples (starting from the Odenplan end) are:

• 🌍 Cosmos Factory, Upplandsgatan 47. (updated Aug 2015)
• 🌍 Stockholms Skivbörs, Upplandsgatan 47. (updated Aug 2015)
• 🌍 Marquee Records, Odengatan 86. (updated Aug 2015)
• 🌍 Runtrunt, Odengatan 90. (updated Aug 2015)
• 🌍 The Beat Goes On Records, St Eriksgatan 67. (updated Aug 2015)
• 🌍 Record Hunter, St Eriksgatan 70. (updated Aug 2015)
• 🌍 Skivbörsen, St Eriksgatan 71. (updated Aug 2015)
• 🌍 Atlas CD-Börs, St Eriksgatan 78. (updated Aug 2015)

Second-hand stores

• 🌍 Sko dig, Hagagatan 4. Second-hand store. (updated Aug 2015)
• 🌍 Nu och då, Norrtullsgatan 31. Second-hand store. (updated Aug 2015)

Torsgatan is distinguished by many buildings in hues of red and orange

Eat

Lilla Bantorget blends the old with the new

Vasastan has plenty of restaurants, most in the mid-range bracket, many in ethnic style. They are usually crowded by office workers during lunch break (from noon to 13:00).

Budget

• 🌍 Cafe Ritorno, Odengatan 78 (T Odenplan). Nice café with personal service. Small outdoor service in the summer. 
• 🌍 Mellqvist Bar, Rörstrandsgatan 4 (T St Eriksplan). Thought by some to serve the best coffee in Stockholm. Expect to drink while standing in this very small coffee bar. 
• 🌍 Non Solo Bar, Odengatan 34 (T Odenplan). An Italian café whose baristas have won the Swedish barista championships multiple times. Amazing espressos and cappuccinos and a quite nice assortment of sandwiches. 
• 🌍 Espresso Sosta, Sveavägen 84. An Italian-style café. 
• 🌍 Konditori Valand, Surbrunnsgatan 48 (T Rådmansgatan), ☎ [phone]. This is an old-style Swedish "konditori" with its 1954 interior almost completely intact. Still owned and operated by the wife of the original designer, this place is a piece of living Swedish history. 
• 🌍 Orontes Kebab, Odengatan 60. A fast-service kebab diner, mostly rather busy. 
• 🌍 Green Rabbit, Tegnérgatan 17. Bakery and café specializing in rye bread and organic products. (updated Jun 2016)
• 🌍 Max, Hagaesplanaden 46. Swedish hamburger bar. 
• 🌍 Kimchistan, Tegnérgatan 13. Korean restaurant with a taste of Central Asia. 

Mid-range

• 🌍 Tennstopet, Dalagatan 50 (T Odenplan), ☎ [phone]. Open M-F 16:00-01:00, Sa-Su 13:00-01:00.. More traditional Swedish cooking. On one evening in August each year they will serve the Swedish culinary delicacy Surströmming (fermented herring). Mains 130-265 kr, slightly lower prices at the bar. 
• 🌍 Peppar, Torsgatan 34 (T-S:t Eriksplan), ☎ [phone]. Awesome Cajun and Creole food at decent prices. Some have argued that they make the best burger in the city. The place is especially known for having excessive decorations at all major holidays like Christmas and Halloween. They also make really good jalapeño bread. 
• 🌍 Byn Creperie & Ciderie, Rödabergsgatan 11A (T St Eriksplan). Galettes, crêpes, moules and cider in an authentic atmosphere with chansons on the stereo. Mains 89-169 kr. 
• 🌍 Döden i grytan, Norrtullsgatan 61 (T Odenplan). Like a neighbourhood Italian restaurant, but with great chefs that really know what they are doing. The winner of Dagens Nyheter's Gulddraken award 2006 in the medium-priced restaurant category. Mains 95-295 kr.. 
• 🌍 Lao Wai, Luntmakargatan 74 (T Rådmansgatan), ☎ [phone]. A vegan restaurant with spicy, tasty Chinese dishes, mainly from the genuine Sichuanese and Taiwanese cuisines. Authentic high quality ingredients, and excellent cooking that will appeal to non-vegetarians as well. Mains 125-185 kr. Lunch 80 kr. 
• 🌍 Sushi by Kyoto, Sankt Eriksgatan 108. A small sushi bar. 
• 🌍 Ki-Mama, Observatoriegatan 13. Sushi bar. 
• 🌍 Phi Phi Island, Birger Jarlsgatan 121 (T Tekniska Högskolan), ☎ [phone]. Authentic Thai restaurant with great food. The location is a little strange, but that's an opportunity to get off the beaten path and see the real Stockholm. Mains 110-195 kr. 
• 🌍 Haga Bottega, Eugeniavägen 6. An Italian restaurant in Hagastaden. (updated Mar 2018)

Splurge

• 🌍 American Bar & Steakhouse, Drottningsgatan 79, ☎ [phone], e-mail: [e-mail]. As is evident from the name, the restaurant focuses on steaks and hamburgers. Precious little vegetarian options available, but the grilled salmon is worth trying. The Texas style chili contains a whole pot of spicy beef. Main courses 160 to 380 kr. (updated Jul 2016)
• 🌍 Claes på hörnet, Surbrunnsgatan 20 (T Tekniska Högskolan), ☎ [phone]. Tracing its history back to 1731, the inn Claes på Hörnet (in literal translation "Claes on the Corner") serves traditional Swedish food in more or less modern forms. The 18th century-inspired dining environment adds to the enjoyment. The inn also has 10 hotel rooms in 18th century style. Mains 145-265 kr. 

Stallmästaregården.

• 🌍 Stallmästaregården, Norrtull. Stockholm's oldest surviving inn. 

Looking from Barnhusbron over the railway tracks, with the Flatiron building in the front

Drink

• 🌍 Pub Anchor, Sveavägen 90 (T Rådmansgatan). A hard rock club open till 03:00, with a broad selection of beers. Happy hour before 22:00. Live acts or karaoke most nights. Cover charge 40 kr. 
• 🌍 Musslan, Dalagatan 46 (T Odenplan). Tu-Th 18:00-01:00, F-Sa 18:00-02:00. The "back pocket" of seafood restaurant Wasahof next door, cosy and relaxed Musslan offers the same menu, a nice bar and DJs every night. 
• 🌍 Olssons Skor, Odengatan 41 (T Odenplan). No cover charge. Clean and relaxed. Room for spontaneous dancing. 
• 🌍 Tranan, Karlbergsvägen 14 (T Odenplan). A good brasserie-style restaurant opened in 1929, with a dark downstairs bar that is popular Vasastan hangout, with a mixed crowd. Occasional live music. 
• 🌍 Storstad, Odengatan 41 (T Odenplan). A rather large bar with a modern, minimalist interior, Storstad is a popular meeting point in the Vasastan district. 
• 🌍 Bishop's Arms, S:t Eriksgatan 115 (T Odenplan). You know what you get. 

Karlbergsvägen and Torsgatan meet at an acute angle

Sleep

Odengatan, one of the main streets of Vasastan

Budget

• 🌍 Vanadis Hotel, Sveavägen 142, ☎ [phone]. A budget hotel at a closed-down water park. Rates from 795 kr. 
• 🌍 Hostel Bed & Breakfast, Rehnsgatan 21, ☎ [phone], e-mail: [e-mail]. Singles 550 kr, Doubles 780 kr. (updated Aug 2015)
• 🌍 2 Kronor, Surbrunnsgatan 44, ☎ [phone], e-mail: [e-mail]. Singles 495 kr, doubles 590 kr. 
• 🌍 Hotel Micro, Tegnérlunden 8, ☎ [phone], e-mail: [e-mail]. Small rooms in the basement of Tegner Hotel. They do not have windows and the bathrooms are shared, but they are very clean and new. From 545 kr. 

Mid-range

• 🌍 Rex Hotel, Luntmakargatan 73 (T Rådmansgatan), ☎ [phone], e-mail: [e-mail]. North of the city center, the Rex Hotel has a trendy designer feel to it, rooms have vintage photographs and gilt mirrors against concrete walls and the bathrooms are tiled in slate. Free internet is available and staff are extremely helpful, even posting out letters and offering advice if needed. Weekend rates from 790 kr, weeknight rates from 1590 kr. 
• 🌍 Ibis Styles Stockholm Odenplan, Västmannagatan 61, ☎ [phone]. This ibis Styles is in a converted historic building with a sloping roof, which resulted in quite small rooms with sometimes bewildering (and challenging) layouts. From 795 kr. 
• Hotel Tegnerlunden, Tegnérlunden 8, ☎ [phone], e-mail: [e-mail]. This comfortable hotel is located in a quiet neighbourhood near a metro station and about 15 minutes walk from the centre of Stockholm (updated Nov 2015)
• 🌍 Lilla Rådmannen, Rådmansgatan 67, ☎ [phone], e-mail: [e-mail]. A nice, quaint hotel in the residential district of Vasastan, located right next to the Tegnérluden park. The hotel is actually located in an apartment building, where the middle two floors consist of private apartments, and the hotel rooms are on the top two floors. The hotel greets guests with a teddy bear, which you can play with for free, or take home with you for a modest price (around 300 kr). Rooms starting at 900 SEK. (updated Jul 2016)

Splurge

• 🌍 Best Western Plus Time Hotel, Vanadisvägen 12, ☎ [phone]. From 1895 kr. (updated Aug 2015)
• 🌍 Elite Hotel Carolina Tower. A 16-floor hotel opened in 2017. 

Cope

• 🌍 Karolinska University Hospital (Karolinska universitetssjukhuset), Karolinska vägen. The Karolinska is one of the most prominent medical institutions in northern Europe. The hospital was relocated to new buildings during the 2010s. 
• 🌍 Karolinska Institute (Karolinska institutet). A medical university founded in 1810, famous for electing the Nobel laureates in medicine. 

Stay safe

As Vasastan is among Stockholm's safest districts, traffic around Odenplan can be chaotic.

Connect

Vasastan, Stockholm

Hagastaden