Tsumkwe
Tsumkwe is a village in remote eastern Otjozondjupa region in a barren area of Namibia formerly known as Bushmanland.
Understand
Tsumkwe is the centre of Bushmanland, and it is okay to refer to it like that. For people, though, the word "bushman" is considered derogatory, call them "San" instead.
Get in
Tsumkwe can be reached with an ordinary sedan via Grootfontein to the west. From all other directions you need a 4x4 due to really deep and soft sand. When arriving from Omaheke region, consider that the 450 kilometres (280 mi) sand track from Gobabis does not lead past any petrol station.
Get around
A four wheel drive vehicle is necessary for the difficult roads in the area. If you consider visiting Khaudum National Park you'll need two vehicles in case one breaks down, and they need to be serious all-terrain cars, not just SUVs with four-wheel drive.
See
The major attraction in the area is the Khaudum National Park in the Kavango north of Tsumkwe.
There are several large baobab trees in the vicinity and several nice spots for seeing animals and birds. During the wet season from January to April the area is beautiful and with luck you can see several endangered bird species. From August to October is the best for seeing animals.
Do
Living villages: You can stay in a San community for a few hours or several days and participate in their life: Build a traditional hut, forge iron arrow tips, learn to read animal spoor, and so on. Great for kids! There are several such villages around Tsumkwe. Contact the Nyae Nyae Conservancy for more information about this. Tsumkwe Lodge can also organise trips to living villages.
Buy
Since mid 2008 there is a commercial petrol station in Tsumkwe. However, it is imperative that the person bring enough supplies. Usually Grootfontein is the last outpost for supplies before heading to Tsumkwe. There are however two shops in town where you can get basic food supplies. A petrol station and garage is under planning. The managers of Tsumkwe lodge doubted the viability of a petrol station here, given the extreme heat and lack of custom, but you might be able to pre-order fuel with the lodge. There are two sparsely stocked supermarkets in the village - one even functions as a post office - but their standard stock is maize meal, beer and soft drinks.
Bushman curios at the "shop" (read garage) run by Rev. van Zijl and his wife. They have acquired these artifacts directly from the Bushmen in exchange for food. They use this system to avoid any proceeds from their crafts being used for alcohol - a growing problem with Bushmen in the area.
Eat
Drink
Sleep
The Tsumkwe Lodge is the main place to stay in the area. There is also a public guesthouse. The camping possibilities are good but remember to pay the camping fee to the conservancy.
- 🌍 Tsumkwe Lodge, ☎ +264 61 37 4750.