Lochgilphead

Lochgilphead is a town at the head of Loch Gilp, an inlet of Loch Fyne; it's the admin centre for the county of Argyll and Bute on the west coast of Scotland. It's not itself scenic but it's worth spending a day or two to see the megaliths at Kilmartin, the Crinan Canal, and the scenic Tayvallich peninsula.

Tayvallich on a spring morning

Get in

By bus: Scottish Citylink Bus 926 runs 5 or 6 times a day from Glasgow Buchanan via Dumbarton, Luss, Tarbet and Inveraray taking 2 hours 30 min to Lochgilphead, and continuing south to Tarbert (Loch Fyne) and Campbeltown. One bus a day runs via Glasgow Airport. Booking is recommended, as this is a busy route connecting with several ferries. On school days there are a couple of extra runs by Bus 449 between Lochgilphead, Tarbert and Campbeltown.

The inter-city 🌍 bus stop in Lochgilphead is on Lochnell Street, the main road.

By boat: see Tarbert (Loch Fyne) for ferries to Islay, Jura, Colonsay, Cowal and Arran.

April-Sept the Jura Passenger Ferry, for foot passengers only, sails from Tayvallich to Craighouse on Jura. There are two sailings Monday and W-Sat, one on Sunday, none on Tuesday. The crossing takes 45-60 min in a bouncy Rib, which has a cabin so you stay dry. Fares are £20 each way, bikes & dogs free, advance booking needed ([phone]). A day-trip gives you 6 hours on Jura.

Get around

West Coast Bus 425/426 runs from Lochgilphead to Tayvallich, with 5 per day Mon-Fri.

Bus 423 / 23 runs from Oban via Kilmartin to Lochgilphead. There are five buses on school days, and three on Saturdays and school holiday weekdays.

Bus 448 runs from Lochgilphead to Tarbert, Kennacraig, Claonaig and Skipness, three M-Sat.

See

• Crinan Canal, opened in 1801, stretches for nine miles between Ardrishaig 1.5 miles south of Lochgilphead, and 🌍 Crinan on the Atlantic coast. It was built to create a shortcut for small craft, especially the "Clyde Puffers", avoiding the stormy Mull of Kintyre. It remains navigable and there's a good towpath for walking or cycling.

Cross in Kilmartin Kirk

• 🌍 Kilmartin Museum (Kilmartin House Museum), PA31 8RQ, ☏ [phone]. Mar-Oct daily 10:00-17:30, Nov-Dec daily 11:00-16:00. Start here to understand the structures of Kilmartin Glen and the prehistoric peoples who made them. With cafe and gift shop. Adult £7. (updated Aug 2019)
• Kilmartin Parish Church (Kilmartin Stones), PA31 8RN (next to museum). Daily 09:30-16:00. Built in 1835 in neo-Gothic style, this is the C of S parish church. It has a notable collection of medieval carved gravestones, and a 9th century cross. Free. (updated Aug 2019)
• 🌍 Kilmartin Glen, south of the village and west of the main road, has a remarkable complex of Neolithic and Bronze Age remains, the best in Scotland. The linear cemetery is a line of five burial cairns: Glebe Cairn, Nether Largie North, Mid and South Cairns, and Ri Cruin. Standing stones are grouped at Nether Largie South, Ballymeanoch (next to Dunchraigaig Cairn) and Temple Wood.
• Moine Mhor means "big bog" - a raised bog, once common but becoming rare, and now a National Nature Reserve. Access is a mile south of Kilmartin on B8025.
• 🌍 Dunadd Fort (3 miles south of Kilmartin). Open all year. Remains of an Iron Age hilltop fort, some 2000 years old. Free. (updated Aug 2019)
• 🌍 Carnasserie Castle (One mile north of Kilmartin). Always open. Tower House built in 1565, ruined after 1685 when the Earl of Argyll backed the winning side too soon. His rebellion in Scotland combined with the Monmouth rebellion in England to try to overthrow King James II / VII. James crushed both rebellions and executed the rebels; but he was ousted in 1688 by the Hanoverian dynasty and his "Jacobite" cause was now on the wrong side of history. Free. (updated Aug 2019)
• 🌍 Keills Chapel, Tayvallich PA31 8PQ (five miles south of Tayvallich). Always open. Small chapel dating from 11th C with some very early crosses and grave slabs, including the Keills Cross from 8th century. The chapel has been re-roofed and most of the stones are now inside. Free. (updated Aug 2019)
• 🌍 Kilmory Castle Gardens. Kilmory Castle was built in the 1830s is the main office of Argyll and Bute Council. The castle grounds are open as a park and have some rare rhododendrons. (updated Aug 2019)

Do

• Lots of walks, eg along the canal. The 39 Steps is a gentle ascent through woodland above Ardrishaig; Richard Hannay never fled from any enemy agents here.

Buy

• The Coop in Lochgilphead on Oban Road is open daily 07:00-22:00.

Eat

• Smiddy Bistro in Lochgilphead is a small place with a wide selection of good food. It's open M-Sat 10:00-17:00.
• Oriental choices in Lochgilphead are Coriander, Taj Mahal and Lee Garden takeaway.
• Tayvallich Inn is a seafood restaurant open daily 12:00-14:30 and 17:30-21:00.

Drink

• The Victoria in Lochgilphead is on Argyll St, open daily from 11:00 to around midnight.

Sleep

• Lochgilphead Caravan Park is by the junction of A83 and A816. Very clean and well run with hook-ups, static caravans and campsite, tel [phone].
• Empire Lodge is a small B&B on Union St Lochgilphead, one block back from the main road. Clean and welcoming, tel [phone].
• Corran B&B is by the A83 / A816 junction, tel [phone].
• Kilmory House is on Paterson St Lochgilphead, hospitable place, tel [phone].
• 🌍 Kilmartin Hotel, Kilmartin PA31 8RQ, ☏ [phone]. Family run hotel in a 19th century building. The hotel has a bar offering meals. B&B double £85. (updated Aug 2019)
• Old Manse Bed & Breakfast, Kilmartin PA31 8RQ (next to museum), ☏ [phone]. Friendly well-run B&B open all year, with 3 doubles, one twin and one single. B&B £45 ppn. (updated Aug 2019)
• Crinan Hotel, Crinan PA31 8SR (by canal basin), ☏ [phone]. Dog-friendly hotel, open all year, with good restaurant B&B double from £110. (updated Aug 2019)

Go next

• South to Tarbert (Loch Fyne), perhaps via the loop of lane along Knapdale west coast, then to Campbeltown and the Mull of Kintyre.
• North past Ardfern and Arduane Gardens, with a turn-off at Kilninver for Seil, Luing and Easdale, and onwards to Oban.
• East past Inveraray towards Tarbet on Loch Lomond.