Paris/11th arrondissement

The 11th Arrondissement is home to two quite different but equally blossoming centres of Parisian nightlife. The streets just northwest of Place de Bastille are full of little bars which attract a mix of young suburban Parisians, expats, and foreigners. Many have a Latin American theme. The restaurants, bars, and wine-bars around Rue Oberkampf in the north of the 11th and rue de Charonne near Avenue Ledru Rollin attract a more urban crowd and are perhaps closer to something traditionally Parisian, while capturing some of the grungy feel of drinking spots in up-and-coming inner city neighbourhoods everywhere.

Get in

Place de la République

By Métro

Get around

Map of the 11th Arrondissement

See

• 🌍 Cirque d'Hiver. Mainly used as a concert hall and venue for fashion shows today, the Cirque d'Hiver was originally built in 1852, as the name would suggest, as a winter venue for circuses.  
• 🌍 Musée Edith Piaf, 5, rue Crespin du Gast (Métro Ménilmontant), ☎ [phone]. M-Th, 13:00-18:00 (by appointment only).  
• 🌍 Place de la Bastille. (updated Oct 2018)

Do

Buy

• 🌍 Distribution, 108, av Ledru-Rollin (Métro: Ledru-Rollin), ☎ [phone]. It may be a strange name for a store which sells toys and baby-clothes, but it's a good place to go if you happen to be in town with someone very small and find yourself needing a new pair of jammies, without paying the cost of a night at the hotel. There are a range of new, used, and consignment clothes, and if you like they will manufacture T-shirts, onesies, very small lab-coats, or other such items with a message or design of your choice. 

Eat

Oberkampf

• Aux Comptoirs des Indes, 50, rue de la Fontaine Au Roi (Métro: Parmentier), ☎ [phone]. Indian. €15. 
• Avé Maria, 1, rue Jacquard (Métro: Oberkampf), ☎ [phone]. Brasilian favela chic. The friendly folks who run this place have been hosting Brasilian dance nights at various venues around town. But don't just come in to check out the posters; stay a while for the fantastic vegetarian friendly South American and international cuisine at reasonable prices. €12-20. 
• 🌍 Café Cannibale, 93, rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud (Métro: Parmentier), ☎ [phone]. Originally ladies-only, it's now co-ed. The word fashionable doesn't even begin to explain the place. 
• Casa Palenque, 130, rue St Maur (Métro: Parmentier), ☎ [phone]. M-Sa, 12ː00-15ː00 and 19ː00-23ː00. This somewhat upmarket Mexican caterer and restaurant places an emphasis on authenticity. It's one of the only places to go in Paris for real tamales. Starters around €6, mains around €12. 
• Clown Bar, 114, rue Amelot (Métro Filles du Calvaire or Oberkampf), ☎ [phone]. 12ː00-15ː00 and 19ː00-02ː00. The food served in this absolutely beautiful room is classic French. The decor is classic Circus, which makes sense since it's just two doors north of the building which has traditionally housed circuses passing through during the winter. The formule for lunch costs €13.50, while the dinner menu is €18.50. Ordering à la carte will cost you around €22. 
• East Side Burgers, 60, boul Voltaire. The first vegetarian fast-food joint in Paris. 
• L'Estaminet, 116, rue Oberkampf (Métro: Parmentier or Ménilmontant), ☎ [phone]. French food with a high degree of originality and creativity. The service is warm and friendly, and so is the decor. Expect to pay €12-20 not counting wine. 
• Le Kitch, 10, rue Oberkampf (Métro: Oberkampf), ☎ [phone]. Daily till 02:00. A tiny French restaurant with a kitchy atmosphere, at least visually. The music on the other hand is fresh, mostly trip-hop and zen. The food is good too. €12-20. 
• Norbulinga, 118, rue Amelot (Métro: Filles du Calvaire or Oberkampf), ☎ [phone]. M-Sa, 12ː00-14:30 and 19ː30-23ː00. Tibetan restaurants aren't widely known to be vegetarian friendly, but this beautifully appointed one certainly is with a list of around 12 vegetarian dishes. Of course there's plenty for meat lovers as well. Some dishes might remind you of spicier western Chinese cooking, others seem a bit more south-Asian. Most dishes are around €7, but some are as little as €5. 
• Le Petit Commerce, 96, rue Jean Pierre Timbaud. A cosy and well-appointed little pan-Mediterranean bistro, offing unexpected and unexpectedly-light specialities from Sardinia and elsewhere. 
• Soya, 20, rue de la Pierre Levée, ☎ [phone]. A true vegetarian restaurant, and a good one. The tiny bit of preciousness about the place is more than overwhelmed by the laid-back atmosphere and warm welcome. There are daily specials, but the couscous-soy will keep you coming back. Also check out the lunch buffet, but maybe not if you're counting calories because it's hard not to go up for thirds. 
• Le Troisième Bureau, 74, rue de la folie Mericourt (Métro: Parmentier), ☎ [phone]. French. €12-20. 
• Le Trou Normand, 9, rue Jean Pierre Timbaud (Métro Oberkampf), ☎ [phone]. Till 01:00. 
• 🌍 Caffé Panem, 18 Rue de Crussol (corner of Rue de Crussol and Rue de Malte, right at Oberkampf Station). 08:30 - 17:00. A small family-run café which serves good and cheap coffee (90 ct for an espresso cup), croissants and great home made sweets such as tiramisu (standard and with chestnut purée). (updated Dec 2015)

Bastille

Asie à la degustation In rue de la Roquette near Place de la Bastille (Métro: Bastille) there are some small Asian shops, selling various dishes by weight, which provides the traveller an opportunity to sample at will: if you aren't sure about a particular dish just buy 50 gr or so for tasting. White rice is available even though they do not display it, just ask for du riz blanc.

• Le Bar à Soupes, 33, rue de Charonne (Métro: Bastille), ☎ [phone]. A large selection of different soups (including some vegetarian options), a few new ones each day, served with your choice of an equally wide selection of breads and cheeses. 
• Blue Elephant, 43, rue de la Roquette (Métro: Bastille), ☎ [phone]. You'll pay at least €30, but it's worth it. A much-beloved Thai restaurant just off of Place de Bastille, this place is tiny, so book ahead. 
• Le Café des Anges, 66, rue de la Roquette (Métro: Bastille), ☎ [phone]. A good place for salads. 
• Le Cyrano, 55, rue de la Roquette (Métro: Bastille). €15. 
• Indiana Tex-Mex. The Place de Bastille location of this popular chain of Tex-Mex is worth mentioning at least because of its ability to draw a crowd. Of note also is the truth in advertising: this is Tex-Mex food prepared exactly as you would expect to find in say, Indianapolis. 
• Suds, 55, rue Charonne (Métro: Bastille or Ledru Rollin), ☎ [phone]. An interesting mix of cuisines from South America, Southern Asia, the south France or any other southern place the chef takes an interest in. 

Drink

Oberkampf

• L'Ancienne Menuiserie, 29, rue des Trois-Bornes (Métro Saint Ambroise), ☎ [phone]. With a young and hip clientele and music that is subdued, rather than screaming, L'Ancienne does well with those that want a break from the busy rue Oberkampf. 
• Ba-ta-clan, boul Voltaire (Métro Oberkampf), ☎ [phone]. Not long ago this place occupied the pinnacle of hipness which at which the Nouveau Casino now finds itself. It's been through a management change though, and doesn't have quite the booking power it once did. Still, you should stop by, especially in the afternoon as the café downstairs is outstanding, perhaps even better than in the old days. 
• Chez Justine, 96, rue Oberkampf (Métro Parmentier), ☎ [phone]. Close to the centre of the Oberkampf nightlife zone, "Justine's place" functions as a restaurant with trendy versions French offerings (which get mixed reviews) during the early evening, but it's 22ː00-02ː00 which really makes the place. Most of the room is filled with big wooden plank tables which are just the thing for a lively conversation with friends, while the bar is comfy too, and attracts quite a crowd by the late evening. The decor is classic, understated, and classy. Draft beer at the bar is €3.. 
• Grenier, 152, rue Oberkampf (Métro Menilmontant). An excellent, but tiny dive bar with live bands upstairs in the hall some nights, but usually downstairs in the front window. This is a great place to hear Django Reinhardt-style jazz guitar playing (Jazz Manouche). A basic beer will set you back €2. 
• Mecano Bar, 99, rue Oberkampf (Métro Parmentier). 
• 🌍 Nouveau Casino et Café Charbon, 109, rue Oberkampf (Métro Parmentier, across the street from Justine's), ☎ [phone]. The New Casino keeps rocking until dawn both in the bar downstairs and the medium-size dance hall upstairs, making it the favourite among young Parisians, especially after the other places in the neighbourhood have closed. The dance/concert hall features cutting-edge indie rock groups and cutting-edge electronica. The prices do reflect the hipness however. Beer €5. 
• Le Scherkhan, 144, rue Oberkampf (Métro Ménilmontant). 
• Le Vin de Zinc, 25, rue Oberkamp, ☎ [phone]. Classic Parisian bar-tops were almost consistently made of zinc, as is the one found at this lovely wine bar, so you can spill your wine on it and it won't hurt anything. 

Bastille

• 🌍 Café du Passage, 12, rue de Charonne (Métro: Parmentier), ☎ [phone]. Sip and swirl some full bodied wines at this casual bistro that hosts wine tastings every Saturday. 
• Entre Potes, 14, rue de Charonne, ☎ [phone]. A good place to relax "among friends" as the name would suggest, thus making it a fairly representative Parisian bar, with notable cocktails. 
• Les Marcheurs de Planete, 73, rue de la Roquette, ☎ [phone]. French wine bar with good prices and atmosphere and a friendly staff. 

Sleep

Budget

• Auberge Internationale des Jeunes, 10, rue Trousseau (Métro Ledru-Rollin), ☎ [phone], fax: [phone]. 
• Bastille Hostel, 6, rue Trousseau (Métro Ledru-Rollin), ☎ [phone]. 
• Hotel Campanile Paris Bastille, 9, rue Chemin Vert (Métro Chemin Vert), ☎ [phone]. 
• Hôtel Mondia, 22, rue du Grand-Prieuré (Métro Oberkampf or Répubique), ☎ [phone]. 
• Hôtel de Nemours, 8, rue de Nemours (Métro Parmentier), ☎ [phone]. Decent. 

• Hôtel Voltaire République, 10, boul Voltaire (Métro République), ☎ [phone]. Located a few steps away from Republic Square. Local bakery, supermarket, laundry, & many other services are close to the hotel. All rooms are en suite, with TV & direct dial telephone. Wi-Fi is available in room. 
• Au Royal Mad, 68 rue Sedaine, 11th arr., 75011 Paris (Voltaire metro), ☎ [phone]. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Budget hotel, with free toiletries, fridge, microwave, and TV in the rooms, and toilets & showers in the corridors. A stone's throw from Place Léon Blum (supermarket, bars, etc.) and Voltaire metro. Friendly staff. There is a room set aside for leaving luggage on the last day. Powerful, free wifi. €59.40 for a twin/double, including city tax. (updated Jul 2016)

Mid-range

• Classics Hôtel, 131, rue de Charonne (Métro Charonne), ☎ [phone]. 
• Le Général Hôtel, 5-7, rue Rampon. 3 star hotel near République and Oberkampf with mostly positive reviews. They've certainly put a certain amount of budget into graphic and interior design. Breakfast is not included. 
• Grand Hotel Français, 223, boul Voltaire (Métro Rue des boulets , Boulets Montreuil), ☎ [phone], fax: [phone]. The Grand Hotel Français Paris has been operated by the same family for over 100 years. They're quite proud of their hotel-operations lore handed down through the generations. 
• Grand Hôtel Nouvel Opera, 152, avenue Ledru-Rollin (Métro Voltaire), ☎ [phone]. This little 3-star gets pretty much consistently positive reviews on line. 
• Hôtel du Nord et de l'Est, 49, rue de Malte (Métro République or Oberkampf), ☎ [phone]. Found among a cluster of two-star hotels off of Place de la République, the North and East has been in the process lately of doing some renovation, bringing some but not all of the rooms up to high three-star standards. Regardless of which type of room you book the place is quiet and cheerful and has Wi-Fi. It's a good value, and to top it off they often have vacancies when all of the hotels in more popular quarters are booked. 100/150€ singles/doubles.. 
• Hotel Hor Les Lumiéres, 39, rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud (Métro Parmentier or République), ☎ [phone]. A budget hotel just a bit from République which offers a fitness centre, and free Wi-Fi, though "Le Marais" is a bit of a stretch. They tout themselves as funky and affordable place to stay, we'll leave it up to you to decide what to make of that. 

Connect

• Malte 38, 38 rue de Malte. Internet café with good rates. 

Go next

Routes through 11th arrondissement

18th arrondissement ← 20th arrondissement ←	W  E	→ END
2nd arrondissement ← 3rd arrondissement ←	W  E	→ 20th arrondissement
Bobigny ← 3rd arrondissement ←	N  S	→ 4th arrondissement → 13th arrondissement