Macapá

Macapá is the capital of Amapá, and arguably the most deserted state capital of Brazil. The locals call it "the capital of the middle of the world.", as the equator runs through the city. As it sits north of the immensely wide mouth of the Amazon river, there are no highways leading out. Unless you count the road into French Guyana, that is.

The monument at Marca Zero, where the equator passes through Macapá

Get in

By plane

• 🌍 Macapá-Alberto Alcolumbre International Airport (MCP  ^IATA). Most flights connect in Belém. A taxi from the centre can be negotiated at R$ 15.  

By boat

• Boats to nearby Santana from Belém(24 hours), Santarém (30 hours, hammock R$ 120, cabin R$ 250) and Manaus(5 days), among other smaller destinations.

By bus

• There are buses from Oiapoque on the border of French Guyana. Travel time varies greatly with the rains.

Get around

Metered taxis and moto taxis abound; some buses.

See

Cannon at the Fort of Macapá

• Apa do Curiaú (8 km). A quilombola village of descendants of escaped slaves, which continues its traditional commemorations such as Marabaixo. You can also try gengibirra, a drink made from cachaça and ginger. 
• Fort Park (Parque do Forte) (next to the fort). Park with walkways along the riverbank, playground, fountain and lawns. 
• Marco Zero (Right south of the city). Closed on Mondays. Where the equator comes through, and even crosses a football stadium! It is marked by a small monument; not much to see. Only reason to see this is to be able to claim to have been there. If you come by taxi, ask the driver to wait the 5 minutes it takes you to take a picture. But there is also a express bus that goes there from the city center and the bus going to the Universidade also passes by. Entrance is free. 
• Sacaca Sustainable Development Museum (Museu Sacaca do Desenvolvimento Sustentável), Av. Feliciano Coelho, 1509 - Bairro do Trem, ☎ [phone]. Mo-Fr 7:30-11:30AM and 2:30-5PM; Sa 3-6PM. Open-air museum which presents the social diversity of the state. Free, but worth paying for a guide if you speak Portuguese. 
• São José de Macapá Fort (Fortaleza de São José de Macapá). Completed in 1782 to protect Brazil from external invasion on the Amazon River. It is a cultural heritage site recognized by IPHAN but is not very well preserved. It is possible to visit the various spaces inside, see rusty iron cannons, appreciate the view of the Amazon river, and visit temporary exhibits. You can also visit the archeological excavations outside. 

Do

• There are a number of small beaches around the city, particularly popular on Sundays. The easiest to access is Fazendinha, with direct buses from the centre.

Buy

• Casa do Artesão, Av. Francisco Azarias Neto, ☎ [phone]. Handcrafts from indigenous tribes in the region, wicker furniture, and ceramic works covered in rubber, known as balata. 
• Macapá-Santana Free Zone (Zona Franca de Macapá-Santana), Rua Cândido Mendes with Rua São José. Free trade area with a great diversity on imported products. 

Eat

• Restaurante Dona Flor (road between Macapá and Santana). Very good. Right on the river. As you eat you can see the river and the people that live there. 
• Restaurante Dom Garcia. Regional classics as well as new recipes with traditional ingredients. Try the escondidinho de carne. 
• Natural Blanc (near the Marco Zero). 
• Trapiche Restaurante, Rua Beira Rio, 1294. 
• Flora Restaurante, Salvador Diniz Hwy., 1370 - Santana. 
• Peixaria Amazonas, Rua Beira Rio, 218. Extensive range of fish, shrimp, and crab dishes. The regional (pink) shrimp with garlic and oil is phenomenal. (updated Dec 2018)

There are also various restaurants and churrascarias just next to the fort at the riverside. They offer meals for R$7 to R$20 and are a popular spot for locals to grab their lunch (11:30am to 2pm).

Drink

• Armazem (Some 15 blocks west of the center). Lively Sunday evenings until the wee hours 

Bar Rods

At the river side and relaxed atmosphere.

Sleep

Most mid-scale hotels give a straight 20-30% discount on posted prices.

• Amazon Plaza Hotel, Rua Beira Rio, 208 (on the riverbank toward Fortaleza). 
• Macapá Hotel, R Francisco A S Coelho Neto, 17. 
• Hotel Versalhes. Has air conditioners bu no electric shower heads. 
• Ibis Macapá. 
• Hotel Mais, Av. Salgado Filho, 969 CEP, ☎ [phone], e-mail: [e-mail]. 24h front desk, rooms with A/C, TV, WiFi. Breakfast included; soda and beer available at the front desk. CC accepted. Spacious, very clean rooms with en-suite shower; cleaned daily. Staff only speaks Portuguese but willing and able to communicate with hand and feet if necessary. A R$15 taxi ride away from the Fortaleza San Jose de Macapa. Double room for 154 brazilian real single for R$110. (updated Mar 2016)

Cope

Go next

By boat from nearby Santana to Belém (24 hours), Santarém (40 hours, hammock R$ 125, cabin R$ 250) and Manaus(5 days), or by bus or 4WD to Oiapoque (7 to 12 hours, depending on road condition) 3 buses/day official price R$115 (February 2017).