Koh Kong
Koh Kong, or Krong Khemarak Phoumin, is the capital of Koh Kong Province in Cambodia's Cardamom Mountains. It is 8 km from Cham Yeam, which is connected by Cambodia's southernmost Thai border crossing to the Thai town of Hat Lek.
Understand
The province is one of Cambodia's greenest and most eco-friendly, with its town being tiny, but surrounded by Asia's largest expanse of mangroves, beautiful islands, and mountains.
Get in
Koh Kong has an airport (KKZ) but has no scheduled flights. Its runway is in a less than optimal shape and air travel will not commence commercially for a while.
From Cambodia
Koh Kong is linked to Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville by Hwy 48, which branches off Hwy 4 at Sre Ambel. The road is paved and complete with 5 bridges. It's a good scenic drive through some of Cambodia's least developed and unspoiled regions, the Cardamom Mountains. Minibuses and tourist air-con buses to and from Koh Kong leave mainly in the mornings. Afternoon departures depend on demand. Tickets to Phnom Penh or Sihanoukville should cost around 25,000 riel (USD6.25). Sihanoukville travel agencies often ask USD8–10.
There is no longer a boat from Koh Kong to Sihanoukville. It stopped in 2009 although some travel agents in Thailand still sell travel tickets for the (non-existent) boat.
There is a daily bus leaving to Koh Kong from Kep via Kampot (USD16). It leaves at 07:30.
From Thailand
The border is at Cham Yeam, about 10 km by road northwest of the town. It faces Hat Lek in Thailand. Motos (USD3-3.50), shared taxis and taxis (USD9-10 for the entire car) run between the town and the border. Drivers will ask for more (asking for 400 baht is common). Don't let them. Negotiate in dollars rather than baht as baht prices always work out to be more expensive.
You'll have to pay a toll for the bridge (1,400 riel for a motorbike, 2,800 for a tuk tuk), which can be paid in riel, USD, or baht. The price is stated on the toll booths: it's better to hand over your money at the booth so that your fare is not impacted later.
Your driver will likely offer to exchange your cash to riel at poor rates. Politely refuse. There is no legal requirement to change any foreign money into riel and the US dollar is the de-facto consumer currency of Cambodia. In Koh Kong, and other border provinces, Thai baht is also accepted, but you'll get better rates if you exchange baht for riel rather than shop with them.
If you're continuing further into Cambodia, beware of overpriced bus tickets: USD15–30 or more. Do not agree to this. Agencies may tell you that the normal price is USD25 or 30, and as such USD15 is a bargain: this is not true. The proper price to Phnom Penh is 25,000 riel (USD6). If you get a ticket for USD8 you are doing well.
Cambodian Immigration
While problematic officials are increasingly less common, there are some old tricks that are worth being aware of.
After you get your passport stamped with the Thai exit stamp, walk down the road, and the arrivals office is on the left side of the street. Ignore the fake quarantine station. If you allow the touts to direct you there, they will take your temperature, give you a bogus form and ask for 20-400 baht. You do not need this form and you will not be asked for it when you apply for your visa or entry stamp.
The fee for a tourist visa is USD30 as of 2015. You will be asked for more (USD37 or 1300 baht as of December 2015) by officials showing an official-looking printed paper. It is a scam. Take out your camera and ask to take a picture of the document - it will disappear fast! You may insist on paying only USD30 (smile and be nice about it) and they will likely delay your visa a few more minutes. Arriving early can help, as in the late afternoon a corrupt official knows that a delay could result in missing onward transport, which makes the bribe seem more attractive. Whenever you arrive, be polite, say hello (sue-saw-day) and thank-you (awkunh) in Khmer and you should find no problems.
- The paperwork is very simple. It requires no assistance, regardless of what touts may say.
- Forms are available at the counter to the left of the visa window, although a helpful tout will likely offer you one as soon as you approach the office. Take the form and otherwise ignore the tout.
- A passport photo is required for the visa. A 100-baht fee applies if you don't have one.
- You can also pay in Thai baht, but better stock up in USD before the border or change money outside the building, where you’ll get slightly better rates.
Alternatively, you can obtain an e-Visa for USD35 as of 2015, which is the same visa as the one for USD30 as of 2015 but obtained on-line in advance. Having an e-Visa saves time at the border and a page in your passport.
USD30 as of 2015 tourist visas (T-class) may be extended for one month only. Persons wanting longer stays and multiple entries to Cambodia will need a USD35 as of 2015 business visa (E-class, valid for 30 days and extendible once in Cambodia). Confusingly, E-class visas are unrelated to the on-line visas. They cost USD35 as of 2015 and require no extra documents or fees. Make sure the officials know that you know this.
Once you have your visa, brush off the touts and go to the arrival window to get your entry stamp into Cambodia.
From immigration, you have to find your way down a small rugged road to the river. The first few motorcycle taxi drivers will speak English well and will ask for 400 baht. Ignore them, and keep on walking down the road. In about 250 m is the main group of taxi drivers, where the standard fare to Koh Kong town is 100 baht (including the bridge toll of 11 baht). It takes around 10 min to reach the centre of town.
Get around
Rent a motorbike from Fat Sam's Restaurant and explore the local area. By Cambodian standards the local roads are safe and most of the local people drive slowly.
Motorbike taxis around town cost 1,000 riel/km. Starting price is 1,000 riel.
See
Around Koh Kong, there are islands, mountains, jungles, rivers, waterfalls, a zoo, casino, and a lot more.
Irrawaddy dolphins otters and birds
Situated between the Cardamom Mountains and the Gulf of Thailand, the mangrove-estuary system of Koh Kong province, Cambodia, is the largest and most intact in South East Asia. Many of the estuaries of the Cardamom Mountains have national park or other protected area status. However due to their remote and until recently inaccessible location they are largely untouched and unexplored and are home to an extremely diverse range of rare and exotic wildlife. Rare dolphins, finless porpoise, two species of otters, Asia's most elusive cat, it's rarest (and smallest) deer, gibbon, macaque and an array of globally endangered shorebirds are just some of our little known treasures
Dolphins
- Irrawaddy Dolphin
- Finles Porpoise
- Indo-Pacific Humpback Dolphin
Koh Kong has a large marine (salt water) population of Irrawaddy dolphins. They inhabit the waters at the estuary mouth in and around the mangroves. Boat tours to see and study these beautiful rare dolphins and other wildlife can be arranged at Fat Sam’s Restaurant.
Otters
Cambodia is often described as "a land of water' so the recent realisation that it is a hotspot for three species of otters is not really surprising. Our estuaries in Koh Kong are the prime habitat for two of these species;
- Smooth-coated Otter
- Hairy-nosed Otter
Birds
Koh Kong’s coastline and islands are the habitat for some of Asia's rarest and most endangered birds and animals. They are the Wintering home for over 20 species of migratory shorebirds - including the globally endangered Spoon-billed sandpiper (global population 200).
Along Hwy 4 (Sihanoukville-Phnom Penh), about 30 km south of Traeng Trayoung, 20 km north of the Koh Kong turn-off, there is on the west side of the road a small turn-off which leads to a nice set of rapids called O'bak Retes. Great place to stop.
Koh Kong Island
Koh Kong Island is considered one of the best beaches in SE Asia. There is no accommodation on Koh Kong Island as it a military installation and therefore illegal to spend the night. Day trips are offered by Koh Kong Divers Tour Centre and other operators in Koh Kong. Koh Kong Island is the largest island in Cambodia, about 20 km long by 7 km wide. It has crystal clear waters, white sand beaches and a tropical forest.
The only settlement is the fishing village of Alatang on the south-east corner of the island. The west side boasts six pristine tropical beaches, most with their own natural freshwater lagoons leading to rivers running down from the high mountain peaks that lie above them.
In high season from October to late May the ocean is quiet with a moderate waves and With moderate wind, ideal for snorkelling, fishing, and every tourism activity.
In Low Season the waves are very impressive, moving up the sand on the beaches. Contrary to what one might think, the low season is not that of rain, there is regularly the sun and rain.
Inhabited by monkeys; tropical birds such as the eagles and toucans; deer and marine fauna is very diversified. Regularly in the Bay dolphins and whale sharks. The island is 40 minutes from Koh Kong city by speed boat; one-way price is USD10/person. Koh Kong city is 10 km from the Thai border.
On the island of Koh Kong there are small monkeys, wild boars, squirrels, toucans, mynah and small parrots. You can also find a rare butterflys including among others the biggest moth Attacus Atlas.
As for marine life there are harmless whale sharks, dolphins, Parrot fish, Snapper fish, Barracuda, king fish, Cobia fish, Wahoo fish, swordfish, Grouper fish, Sea turtle, wahoo fish.
The north end is controlled by the military, camping is allowed at your own risk on the 5th and 6th beaches and also at the military post in the village of Alatang.
Do
Day trips to Koh Kong Island, to see the Dolphins in Pream Krasop Mangroves (Asia's largest), Trekking and overnight stays in the Cardamom Mountains are available from Fat Sam's Restaurant located next to the roundabout in the city centre.
Fat Sam's Bar on the roundabout in the town centre is a fabulous place to get ideas about what to do. The staff are very helpful and know the area very well. They also have motorbikes for rent, free local guide books and maps of the area and can book trips and tours for you.
Buy
Eat
- Paddy's Bamboo Pub (Paddy's Bamboo Guesthouse) (Next to Rasmey Buntam Guesthouse). Pub serving Western breakfast and local meals.
- Thmorda Crab House, 169 Neang Kok Village, Pak Klong Commune, Mondolsima District, ☎ +855 35 6901252. Daily, 07:00-22:00. Thai seafood restaurant and bar on the Koh Pow River, karaoke, kayaking, Wi-Fi.
- Fat Sam's Restaurant and Bar, The Roundabout, Town Centre, Koh Kong (Fat Sam's is 25 m from the roundabout in the centre of the town on the road going away from the river (there is only one roundabout in the town centre, there are now also 2 on the outskirts)), ☎ +855 977370707. M-Sa 09:00-22:00, Su 16:00-22:00. The restaurant is run by Lin who is an excellent cook and has an good menu with quality food almost all of which is sourced locally. A full bar with a comprehensive range of spirits, good wine, Bruntys English cider, Cambodian draft beer and a range of canned and bottled beers is available. Most sports including Formula 1 and Premier League football are shown on a big screen TV. Visas for Cambodia, Thailand and Vietnam can be arranged. The clientele in Fat Sam's Restaurant and Bar is a mixture of local expats, who can be an excellent source of information on Koh Kong and Cambodia in general, and travelers and tourists from a wide variety of countries and backgrounds. In Fat Sam's you can meet someone from your hometown or from the other end of the world. The open fronted bar faces the roundabout and it's a great place to sit and watch Cambodian life go by. Free WiFi. USD3-8.
Cambodian restaurants There are a number of restaurants clustered round the roundabout in the town centre selling good local food
Drink
- .
- Waterfront Bar & Restaurant. Cambodian food and snacks, pizzas and hamburgers, cocktails, beer, spirits, music, view of river.
Sleep
There are many guesthouses and small hotels in the central part of town and on the riverside street, partially thanks to Thais who come to Cambodia for gambling (the big casino can be seen on the way from the border). Basic guesthouse room with fan costs USD3-6 (or 100-200 baht). For USD10 and more you'll get an air-con room in a guesthouse or hotel. As is often the case in Asia, the cheapest places and room rates are usually those found "on the spot" on arrival. Motorbike taxi drivers will be happy to take you to a guesthouse or hotel of their choice if you're not sure where to go. Ask them (and note how far from the centre is it) and the price. Alternatively, walk around and look for accommodation yourself: the town is quite small. Further south of the town there is a small group of 12 islands called the Koh Sdach archipelago. This area has white sandy beaches, crystal clear seas, and paradisical islands. It's a must for any traveller visiting coastal Cambodia. Accommodation is only available on two of the islands, Koh Sdach and Koh Toteung, and room rates are from USD10–120.
- Nathy Koh Kong, opened in May 2017. Its prices start at $7 and its rooms are far superior to the majority of guesthouses charging similar prices. On the main street 70 m from the roundabout in the town centre
Rozana Guesthouse, Street 12 (At the roundabout in the town centre take the street going away from the river. Rozana is about 50 m down on the right.), ☎ +855 70 586658. Rozana is a friendly family run business with both fan and air conditioned rooms. USD6 to 14.
- Apex Koh Kong Resort.
- Street 12 or “Hotel Street”, also known on Google Maps as Chicken Farm Road goes from the Town Centre Roundabout away from the river and has the highest concentration of mid range and budget accommodation in town. There are 11 hotels/guesthouses within 500 m of the roundabout. Starting from the roundabout there are Rozana, Somross, Bun Na Reach, Tann Tay, Sunny, Raksmey Koh Kong, Paddy’s, Dong Tong, Pailin, Blue Moon and Neak Meas. Prices range from USD3 for a dorm room in Paddy’s to USD15 for an air conditioned room. Most fan rooms are USD7-9 and aircon rooms USD10-15. The majority of the guesthouses have been built since 2009 and offer good value clean comfortable rooms most with free Wi-Fi. There are also a good range of Western and Cambodian restaurants around the area.
- Paddy's Bamboo Guesthouse -- Backpacker central, has USD3 dorm beds plus private rooms. The place to meet other travellers. Paddy is a cool laid back guy who can organize everything from trips to transport to your next destination. 400 metres from the town centre roundabout in the street going away from the river.
- Tann Tay Guesthouse with free Wi-Fi and flat screen TV. 300 m from roundabout in town centre past Fat Sam's Restaurant.
- Sunny Guesthouse. Good swimming pool and free Wi-Fi. Opposite Tann Tay
- BoPha Koh Kong Hotel.
- Koh Kong City Hotel.
- Koh Kong Island Resort.
- Koh Kong Resort, ☎ +855 11 555706, +855 16 700970. USD60+.
- Oasis Bungalow Resort. Excellent place to stay with a knowledgeable owner who can arrange treks.
- RITHY Retreat Guesthouse (On the riverfront street, watch out for the sign). Guesthouse with clean fan dorms and various private rooms. Attached restaurant/bar and eco tour booking with very helpful staff USD4-13.
- Rozana Guesthouse, Street 12 (At the roundabout in the town centre take the street going away from the river. Rozana is about 50 metres down on the right.), ☎ +855 70 586658. Rozana is a friendly family run business with both fan and air conditioned rooms. USD6 to 14.
Go next
Tatai is the next town east, 19 km away. USD4–5 by motorbike, USD10 by tuk-tuk.
Tickets to Phnom Penh or Sihanoukville 40,000 riel and can be purchased at the bus station in the centre of town. Buses depart around 07:00. There is also a 13:00 bus to Phnom Penh.