Battambang

Battambang is Cambodia's second most populous city, and a popular tourist destination due to the many nearby ancient temples, Buddhist shrines and the infamous bamboo railway. It is also the capital of Battambang Province.

Understand

Despite being Cambodia's second largest city, Battambang is often overlooked by those on the tourist trail who opt for the more popular Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. More quiet and less visited, however, Battambang has a less commercialized feel and provides an opportunity to see a slightly less Westernized Cambodian city. Remnants of French colonial architecture can still be spotted around the city, particularly north of the middle of the three main bridges, and there are food and lodging options that will cater to most budgets/tastes.

Get in

Map of Battambang

By road

National Hwy 5 is paved and from Battambang runs southeast to Phnom Penh and northwest to Sisophon and Poipet. At Sisophon, Hwy 6 branches off to provide paved access to Siem Reap. In a car, Phnom Penh is around 4 hours away and Sisophon can be reached in just under 1 hour. By bus, Phnom Penh takes about 5-6 hours and cost about USD5-12. Siem Reap takes at least 3 hours and costs USD4-5. Poipet (Thai border): 2-3 hours, USD4-5

• Paramount Angkor Buses run twice daily from Battambang to Pailin via Hwy 57 (2 hours) for USD4.
• PP Sorya buses go from Battambang to Bangkok , Phnom Penh, Poipet.

By boat

One boat a day travels from Siem Reap (for Angkor) to Battambang, departing Siem Reap at 07:00 and costs USD20. An interesting and very scenic journey along small rivers, the boat threads its way through numerous charming floating villages and past dozens of towering cantilevered fishing net installations. It can take between 6-12 hours, depending on the time of year (and hence the water level), however the time can be fairly accurately predicted by checking the time that the same boat arrived yesterday.

During the dry season, when the water level gets very low, the boats cannot get all the way to Battambang, and the journey is completed by minibus or pick-up truck.

By rail

Daily trains from Poipet on the Thai border through Sisophon will connect to Battambang by the end of May 2018, and to Phnom Penh by the end of 2018.

Get around

The city centre is pretty compact and can be mostly explored by foot. Bicycles can be rented from most hotels or private companies for USD1-2 per day. Motorcycles can be rented from USD5 a day. The driving habits of locals are hazardous. Police may try to fine tourists on motorbikes. If pulled over, stay calm, smile, take the key out of the ignition (to prevent the police trying to ransom it), and pay a small fine of USD1-2.

Tuk-tuks and motorbike drivers hang around popular tourist areas. As most of the interesting and useful destinations are quite close to each other, most rides should only cost you USD2-4. More distant trips like Phnom Sampouv (the "killing caves") will cost around USD10, and can be combined with other destinations for a total of USD12-15.

Small boats serve as ferries (500 riel) and cross the river from in front of the market.

See

• Battambang Circus, Phare Ponleu Selpak (10 min journey by tuk-tuk from the centre of Battambang), ☎ [phone]. Performances vary. You can check their website for the schedule or find the calendar printed on flyers around town. The shows are fun, energetic and exciting and include a range of circus disciplines. The ticket price helps support the NGO school which works with disadvantaged children and teenagers. USD14 (Jan 2018). 

Phnom Sampeou

• 🌍 Phnom Sampeu. A hill with the killing caves of the Khmer Rouge, a few others caves adorned with Buddhist statues, and a monastery with two Buddhist stupas on the hilltop. The admission charge also includes Wat Banan. It takes about 1 hr to climb the circuit to the monastery on top, with a short-cut leading back down to the shops and restaurants which line the approach road. USD3.  
• Statues. Battambang is known for its statues, which seemingly decorate every public place. Most are of animals (mythical and real) and divinities. The most famous of these statues is on the main road in from Phnom Penh and is of an ancient Khmer King holding a stick which he used to quell rebellions in the Battambang area. The name of the town and province derives from this legend. 
• 🌍 Wat Banan. The so-called mini-Angkor Wat, an impressive flight of stairs lead up to a dilapidated Angkor-style temple which is still in use as a Buddhist shrine.  
• Wat Baydamram. A temple where hundreds of fruit bats live in trees under the protection of the Buddhist monks. 

Wat Ek Phnom

• 🌍 Wat Ek Phnom (About 10 km northwest of Battambang). Angkor-type temple ruin. The road runs along lovely small rivers flanked by trees and small villages making it a generally nice area. Approaching Wat Ek Phnom, you suddenly encounter a giant Buddha statue in the wat, which is certainly picture-worthy. The grounds of the wat also have an Angkorian-era temple which is in relatively good shape and with some interesting carvings.  
• Wat Samraong Knong. Roughly translates as "wat in the forest". An extremely old pagoda on the east side of the Sangker River. The eerie old wat was used as a Khmer Rouge prison, and there were many executions on the premises. A new pagoda is now being built, and there is a memorial to the victims of the Khmer Rouge regime, with graphic illustrations, just to the north. 

Do

The bamboo train near Battambang

• 🌍 Bamboo Train. The term "train" is here used loosely: a large bamboo platform mounted on train axles powered by a small go-kart engine. A trip on the train can be booked in most hotels or arranged with a motorbike/tuk-tuk driver. It is regulated by Battambang's Tourist Police, with a standard rate of USD5 per person, minimum 2 people or USD10 for one person, with discounts for larger groups. Ask the driver to pause at scenic places. The Bamboo Train is running along the new track: it takes about 10 minutes to get to a stop where you can buy drinks and t-shirts:; it then returns along the same route. USD5 per person shared, USD10 solo. (updated Jan 2019)

• Soksabike Tours, Street 1.5, (near Psar Nat), ☎ [phone], e-mail: [e-mail]. Soksabike is a social enterprise dedicated to sustainable tourism in Battambang. They offer half day and full day bike tours around the countryside where guests can learn about the everyday life and culture of Cambodia. The money for the tour is distributed to families in the community along the way and goes to pay the salaries of the guides, all local university students. They use high-quality mountain bikes, provide a helmet and even include a coffee at one of the best cafes in town. Hotel pickup included and group discounts are available. (updated Apr 2019)
• Butterfly Tours, ☎ [phone], e-mail: [e-mail]. Takes you on a half-day or full-day trip to various sites around Battambang. The tour is an initiative run by university students. The guides are students of English at the university level and provide an interesting local insight into life in Cambodia. Hotel pickups in Battambang. USD15 per person. Group discounts. 
• Green Orange Kayak, ☎ [phone]. Go on a beautiful Stung Sangker River voyage from the small village of Ksach Poy to Battambang, past riverside terraces and traditional bamboo houses. Get away from the dusty roads and learn first hand about traditional fishing and farming techniques. Half-day trip, 11 km. USD12. 
• Volunteer Teaching English (Battambang Orphanage Village Assistance) (10 min north of Battambang), ☎ [phone]. Stay at a home stay in Samroang Khnong Village and volunteer to help teach English to children. Call Mr. Sophorn and he will pick you up from town and make you very welcome indeed. No experience or special skills are required, just a willingness to help the delightful local children speak a bit more English. The small price includes accommodation and three delicious meals a day. USD12 per person per night. 
• Battambang Countryside trip (Hotel pickups in Battambang), ☎ [phone]. Offers tuk-tuk day trips to the countryside surrounding Battambang including seeing local crafts, temples and other major sites. Customised trips available. (updated Aug 2015)

Cooking classes

• Ch'Ngainh Ch'Ngainh, ☎ [phone], e-mail: [e-mail]. A homey, familial approach to cookery conducted in a family home. Daily courses priced at USD10. 
• Nary's Kitchen (opposite Holiday Guesthouse, 200 m from central market), ☎ [phone], e-mail: [e-mail]. (updated Apr 2019)Battambang's original cooking school, and still highly popular. Hotel pick-up, market tour to buy ingredients. $10 (4 separate dishes; vegetarian available; free cookbook to take away).
• Smokin' Pot, corner of Street 121 and Road 1.5 (in the city center), ☎ [phone], e-mail: [e-mail]. You'll meet Chef-owner Vannak outside the restaurant and go by tuk-tuk to a produce market south of town to buy herbs, vegetables and fish; then you'll go to his house outside of town and spend about two hours cooking up several Khmer dishes. The patio-turned-training-kitchen is authentically Khmer, an insight into how most of Cambodia cooks and eats. Vannak's is very knowledgable about Khmer cuisine and speaks excellent English, so everyone (from amateurs to pro cooks) will learn something. USD10. (updated Apr 2017)

Buy

Battambang's central market

• Heng Chhay Ly Supermarket, Borei Road off Street 1, ☎ [phone]. 07:00-21:30. (updated Mar 2017)
• Chea Neang Drink Shop Supermarket, 611 Street 3, ☎ [phone]. 06:00-20:00. (updated Mar 2017)
• Psar Nath & Psar Boeung Chhoeuk (Public markets). fruit stalls. (updated Mar 2017)
• Lucky Supermarket, NE corner of intersection @Hwy 5, Street 524/106, La He St. 8AM-10PM. (updated Mar 2019)

Eat

There are plenty of places to eat, but after 19:00 some places close and lots of streets become dark, so eating early (around 18:00) is recommended.

You can get some great French-style bread (by French standards) for 1,000 riel a medium-size baguette up north, between the French cultural centre and the giant statue marking the entry in Battambang from the main inter-provincial road. The bread that street sellers have elsewhere in town is of a much lower standard for the same price, similar to that found in Phnom Penh, baguette-shapes, but sprinkled with sugar. Some people do not notice any difference between the bread sold in the north and elsewhere in Battambang. It is generally of decent quality all across the city.

• Apple of Love (La Pomme d'Amour), St 2.5, #63, ☎ [phone], [phone]. 07:00-22:00. Khmer cuisine with a French twist, sophisticated and creative with pleasant staff. Wine list. 
• Au Cabaret Vert Restaurant (Au Cabaret Vert-Hôtel à Battambang), Toul Ta Ek, Otakom 2 (5 min from the market by tuk-tuk), ☎ [phone], [phone], e-mail: [e-mail]. Traditional Cambodian dishes, their speciality is fish amok, complemented by a French-style menu that includes desserts and wine. USD9-16 for a main course, starters USD8-12. 
• Bamboo Train Café & Bar' (Cross the new bridge, 200 m further and it's on the right side just after the pizza house), e-mail: [e-mail]. 06:30-22:00. Relaxed atmosphere, delicious food and friendly staff. 
• 🌍 Cafe Eden, e-mail: [e-mail]. Western-style river front cafe restaurant run by an American woman. Serves Western and Asian food, and coffee. Kitchen works to Western food handling and preparation standards. 
• Coconut Lyly, Street 111 (200 m west from central market), ☎ [phone], e-mail: [e-mail]. 09:00-22:00. Offers a nice compact menu with mainly Khmer dishes. The food is recommendable. USD3-4 for a main course. (updated Jan 2017)
• Choco l'art Cafe, Street 117 (1½ blocks west of Street 3), [phone]. 08:00-23:00. Coffee shop with assorted omelets and both sweet and savory crepes. Popular with local NGO workers and some expats.
• Flavors of India, Street 121 (Near intersection with Road 1.5), [phone]. 11:00-22:00. Excellent North Indian dishes with local and imported beers, lassi and noteworthy entrees. Mains from USD 3-5.
• Gecko Cafe, St 3 (One block south of Psa Nath Market). Nice atmosphere, limited but very tasty menu. Free Wi-Fi. 
• Natural (Project of an NGO called Coconut Water Foundation), N091-G34 Rd 3. 20 Ousaphear Village, Svaypoar Commune (St 3, 100 m south of the central market), ☎ [phone]. A shop and organic coffee place. The shop sells handmade clothes, bags and wallets made by local home based producers and from other local NGOs, watercolour post cards, and pictures made by art students from another NGO. Organic fruit shakes, green tea with fruits and vegetarian breakfast & brunch options. There is also a Khmer lady weaving using an authentic old loom. 
• Smokin' Pot, corner of Street 121 and Road 1.5. This Battambang mainstay offers a good variety of Khmer, Thai and Western food in an aging-yet-charming setting that echoes the city itself. Vegetarian friendly. Good drinks. USD3-5. 
• White Rose (Almost opposite the Smoking Pot). Huge menu, and some great fruit shakes. This place is more typically Asian-style than Western-style cosy but is still full of foreigners. The staff seem a bit stressed and not very hospitable. A plus is that they're quick and remember everything as you ordered it. 
• Ambrosia Cafe, 112 Street 2, ☎ [phone]. Su-F 07:00-22:00; Sa 18:00-22:00. Excellent cafe with good western and Khymer food at reasonable prices. They also have a selection of board games and an xbox if you want to play. They have a film night on Tuesdays using a good projector (free, as long as you are eating/drinking there). 
• Heng Chhay Ly Food Court (3rd Floor), Borei Road off Street 1. 8AM-9PM. (updated Mar 2019)

Drink

• Center Cafe, St 3 (One block towards the river from the Lux Hotel). 07:30-24:00. Cheap and tasty Western and Khmer dishes. The usual beer, coffee and smoothies. Nice atmosphere and tours/bus tickets available at prices much cheaper than the hotels (half the price for a day-bus ticket to Phnom Penh than what the Lux Hotel quotes). Staff speak decent English and the manager/owner is very friendly. USD1-5. 
• Espresso Cafe (Beside Hotel Royal, inner side of yellow art-deco market). Everything is provided with a smile. Great smoothies. A good family-run Khmer restaurant. 
• Fresh Eats, St 2.5 (A few doors down from Apple of Love/La Pomme d'Amour). NGO restaurant with a reasonably-priced menu with lots of fruit juices, breakfast foods and make-your-own sandwiches. 
• Madison Corner, St 2.5, ☎ [phone]. 06:00-late. The unique pub in town. Enjoy a drink, draught beer, cocktail, home-made rum and a wide range of ice creams and local snacks. Some of the best crepes in Cambodia. A popular meeting place. 
• Scoop Cocktail Bar ([e-mail]), KO St, Romcheak 5, Sangkat Ratanak (River, east bank), ☎ [phone]. 06:00-late. Live sports on a 40 in LCD and 2 LCD 30 inches. Good cocktails, free tapas and snacks. Happy hour 17:00-19:99 and 22:00-23:30: draught beer USD0.75, buy 2 get 1 free, all cocktails USD2.50). USD0.75-5.00. 
• Street One and a Half, End of St 1.5 (Head south from central market on St 2, turn left and it's at the end/corner of that little street). Good cafe menu with a few snacks but mainly just excellent coffee and drinks. Cool alleyway atmosphere. 

Sleep

Budget

• Chhaya Hotel and Serviced Apartments, 118, St 3, Svaypor, ☎ [phone], [phone], e-mail: [e-mail]. Single, double, and triple rooms, both air-con and fan. Cable TV. The cheaper hotel rooms have a shared bathroom, the more expensive ones have private facilities and a refrigerator. Serviced apartments have large rooms with kitchenette and balconies, large en suite bath, Wi-Fi, cable TV. 24 hr security, free airport/bus station/boat harbour transfers. Hotel: USD4-12, apartments: USD20/night or USD270/month. 
• Golden River Hotel, Street 3 (A few blocks down from Hotel Chhaya and just before the sign posted turn for the train station). Good clean hotel with the standard facilities you will find elsewhere in Battambang. Staff are helpful and friendly. From USD9. 
• Here Be Dragons, Riversise East, ☎ [phone]. Check-out: 12:00. six bed dorm and private rooms fan or A/C dorm USD4/6; fan or A/C room from USD12/15. (updated Mar 2017)
• Holiday Hotel, #695, St. 4, ☎ [phone]. Good hotel with elevator and large reception area. Rooms have air-con, Wi-Fi, cable TV, and en suite bath. USD15-20. 
• Hotel Royal, 115 Street (On a side street west of the central market), ☎ [phone]. Check-out: 12:00. Rooftop restaurant. Spacious double rooms with bathroom, hot water and air-con. Clean fan singles and doubles available with shared bathroom and toilets. USD7-10-15-20-25. 
• Seng Hout Hotel, No 1008B, Rd 02 (North of Psar Nat Market 50 m, next door to the White Rose Restaurant and around the corner from the Smoking Pot), ☎ [phone], [phone] (cell), e-mail: [e-mail]. Good hotel with elevator and large reception area. Rooms have air-con or optional cheaper fan, free Wi-Fi, cable TV, refrigerator, hot and cold water, and en suite bath. Rooftop cafe with 360⁰ views. USD10-16. 
• Tomato Backpacker Hostel, Restaurant and Bar, 119 street (Behind LUX Guest House), ☎ [phone]. Check-out: 12:00. Very friendly place with en suite baths. Has only 4 rooms in total on first floor that also has nice restaurant balcony. Great value for anyone on a tight budget. Dorm bed USD2 per person. rooms USD3-10. 
• Ganesha Family Guest House, Street 1. 5, ☎ [phone]. Check-out: 12:00. dorm and rooms dorm bed $4.50c rooms from $11.. (updated Mar 2017)
• Frist Hotel, 210 Street 101, ☎ [phone]. Check-out: 12:00. 6-bed dorm and rooms. Security lockers. Free wifi. Hot water. Air con 6-bed dorm USD5 per person Fan dorm bed USD3 per person. Rooms from USD7. (updated Mar 2017)
• Hostel BTB Cambodia, Road 121 & Road 102, ☎ [phone]. Air-conditioned 6-12 bed dorms. Security lockers. Free Wi-Fi dorm bed from USD3.25 per person. (updated Mar 2017)
• Angkor Comfort Hotel, Street 1, ☎ [phone]. Check-out: 12:00. Air-con double room with own bathroom, cable TV, and free Wi-Fi. USD15. (updated Mar 2017)

Mid-range

• Banan Hotel, National Rd No 5, ☎ [phone], [phone], e-mail: [e-mail]. Close to bus station and city centre. Helpful staff. Free Wi-Fi, free bicycles. USD15-25. 
• 🌍 Khemara Battambang Hotel, No 224, Old National Rd No 5, Roumcheck 4 Village, Sangkat Rathanak, ☎ [phone]. Very comfortable beds, clean rooms with Internet access (LAN cable, but in some rooms a connection from a nearby Wi-Fi network is available), TV, air-con, fan and a fridge. Car parking possible. Also has great outdoor swimming pool. In room massage available from USD5/hr. Bicycle hire USD4/day. USD15 or USD25 VIP. 
• Lux Guest House, ☎ [phone]. Rooms include hot water, air-con, fan, cable TV, free Wi-Fi, fridge, and minibar. Rooms are big clean and nicely decorated, as goes for the entire hotel. Staff are friendly, helpful and a little bit shy. Location is close to nice eating places and at a road which is lighted at night. USD8-23. 
• Phka Villa Hotel/Resort, KO St, Romchea 5, Sankat Ratanak, ☎ [phone], e-mail: [e-mail]. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. 10 en suite bungalow rooms, 13 m x 18 m swimming pool, free Internet and in-room Wi-Fi, free bicycles, free shuttle to town, airport shuttle (surcharge), car or taxi arranged. All rooms have hot water, air-con, fan, network cable LCD TV, DVD player, in-room safe, mini bar, hair dryer, bathrobe, toiletries. 2 private terraces, one is sun terrace facing the swimming pool. Restaurant and bar open from 06:00-24:00. USD55. (updated Sep 2016)
• President Hotel (1 km from mid-town. Every tuk tuk knows it.). Incompetently run with plumbing leaks and reception can rarely help with anything. Quite new and quite cheap for a nice room with modern conveniences. USD15. 
• Teo Hotel, St 3, ☎ [phone], [phone] (mobile). Immaculately clean and well-maintained rooms with double bed, air-con, and fan, hot water, TV, and fridge. Visa and MasterCard accepted. If you are in a room far from the router then Wi-Fi reception may be very poor or unavailable. Indoor restaurant is closed. Unhelpful staff. From USD10. 

Splurge

• Au Cabaret Vert, Toul Ta Ek, Otakom 2, ☎ [phone], [phone], e-mail: [e-mail]. Bungalows around a natural swimming pool. Library, parking, free Internet, tours, car and motorbike, electric bike and tuk-tuk hire arranged, international telephone, laundry and historic film screenings. USD50-66 for 2 with breakfast. 
• Bambu Hotel, Phum Romchek 5, Sangkat Rottanak, KO St, ☎ [phone], fax: [phone], e-mail: [e-mail]. 16 rooms, including 4 suite rooms (32 sq m including bath), 6 deluxe superior rooms (27 sq m including bath), 4 deluxe standard rooms (27 sq m including bath). All have en suite baths, air-con, telephone, cable TV, DVD player, access to DVD library, iPod docker, mini bar, safe and private terrace or balcony. Free Wi-Fi, 2 computer terminals in reception for use by guests, salt water swimming pool (14 m x 6) open from 08:00-21:00. Restaurant open 06:00-22:00. From USD66. 
• 🌍 La Villa, N 185 Pom Romchek 5 Kom, Rattanak Srok (Just across the river from the central market.), ☎ [phone] , [phone] (cell), fax: [phone], e-mail: [e-mail]. Guesthouse with a swimming pool in a renovated 1930s French colonial period villa, art Deco furniture and fittings. 7 rooms (6 in the main house and 1 in the house nearby the swimming pool). Each room has a private toilet with bath or shower, hot and cold water, air-con, fan, TV and cable network, 4 poster bed with mosquito net, light summer duvet, wardrobe, work desk, safe, coffee and tea facilities, DVD player with DVD for rent. Book ahead as it is often full. USD55-100.  

Connect

• Battambang Buzz, ☎ [phone], e-mail: [e-mail]. A free guide book. Available at restaurants throughout Battambang. free. 

Go next

• Phnom Penh
• Siem Reap (for Angkor)

Routes through Battambang

Poipet ← Sisophon ←

NW  SE

→ Moung Ruessei → Phnom Penh