Aleppo

Aleppo (حلب‎, Ḥalab) is the largest city in Syria - population 2.1 million. Its old city is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

	WARNING: Any travel to Syria and Aleppo is strongly discouraged by all Western governments. Syria has been fighting a civil war since 2011. Tens of thousands of people having been injured and killed by opposition paramilitary groups or government security forces. Attacks have been indiscriminate and use of lethal chemical weapons have been reported. Large parts of the city, including many major tourist sites, are in ruins. Practically all Western countries have issued travel warnings, consult your foreign office before travelling. Since the fall of ISIS in 2019, the threat of kidnapping has decreased, but the civil war continues between the government and other rebels. If you still have to visit, see War zone safety.
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	(Information last updated Mar 2018)

Understand

The Aleppo Citadel

As it is in any Muslim country, the call to prayer is called out from mosques five times a day starting in the early morning. It can be a beautiful sound.

Aleppo is a fairly conservative city. Dress appropriately to avoid any problems and to avoid standing out too much. Men should wear shirts and trousers and women should not wear anything that is too revealing. If you follow that simple dress code you should not have any problems. Head scarves are not necessary unless you want to enter a mosque but even then grey robes are available at no extra charge.

There are no hostile feelings towards Americans or Westerners in general (although Americans tend to be subjected to more scrutiny by the authorities than other nationalities). You could, however, find yourself in trouble if you engage in open criticism of and against the Syrian government or the president. Your best bet is to avoid political conversations all together just to avoid any possible problems. If you do engage in political discussions with Syrians, be aware that they might face intense questioning by the secret police if you are overheard. As a general rule, always assume that you are being watched by the plain-clothes policemen (mukhabarat). You will notice that not many uniformed policemen can be seen in the streets, but this is because the police have a wide network of plain-clothes officers and informants.

Friday is a holy day and most shops and historic sites are closed so plan accordingly for this.

Stealing is looked down upon and thus is not very common. Crime is generally low and you should feel safe to walk around in any part of the city at any time day or night. But as in any city, it's a good idea to keep an eye on your belongings, particularly in the souk.

Meals are a bit later than in the U.S. but similar to the times in some European countries. Lunch is from 13:00 to 15:00 and dinner around 20:00. Syrians take a siesta in the middle of the day, from about 15:00 to 18:00, but this means that the night life is very active. You can return to the markets and public squares that you visited during the day and by 22:00 they will be bustling with people selling food and treats and drinks. It is a like a street fair every night.

Aleppo is a beautiful and historic city, but is too dangerous to recommend visiting.

Get in

As of 2017, travel to Aleppo is difficult as major highways are are blocked by the civil war and travel on roads that are can take a long time due to frequent military checkpoints. It is however possible to travel overland from Damascus independently or by bus. Travel from Turkey is not possible.

🌍 Aleppo International Airport has as not yet reopened for scheduled flights.

All long distance trains, including international trains, are cancelled indefinitely. National operator CFS runs a local commuter train from the suburb and major refugee camp Jibreen, of little use to visitors. 🌍 Aleppo railway station, also known as Baghdad station, is located about a kilometre northeast of the city centre.

Get around

Taxis are everywhere, probably more taxis than people. They are easy to take and very affordable but just make sure it is a licensed taxi.

Minibuses: Called "serveece", these are small white vans that drive around and you can hop on and off by signalling to the driver. 10 lira per journey. They get very full in rush hours.

Rental Cars: Hertz and other rental car agencies are available in Aleppo but the driving can be very hectic and if you are not accustomed to driving in a place with few rules and almost no regard for street signs you should probably not attempt to drive on your own.

See

• 🌍 Citadel of Aleppo. On a hill in the centre of the city and is visible from almost anywhere. Usage of the Citadel hill dates back at least to the middle of the 3rd millennium BC, but the current structure dates from the 13th century. The citadel survived the fighting relatively intact and there there are daily tours as of 2017. (updated Oct 2017)
• The Souq: There are multiple souqs in the city including a covered section. All of the shopping you could want to do from gold and silver, boxes, clothing, fabric and soaps can be found in the various souqs. Bargaining is encouraged and if you know Arabic it will get you a much better price.
• 🌍 Bimaristan Arghan. A beautiful mental hospital turned into a museum. Entrance is free and you can wander around and look at exhibits, which include old medical equipment, herbs, biographies of famous Arab scientists and other interesting artifacts. The main attractions, however, are the courtyard and two separate spaces reserved for the mentally ill. (updated Feb 2018)
• 🌍 Church of Saint Simeon Stylites (كنيسة مار سمعان العمودي) (Located 30 miles outside of Aleppo). A church built in 490 AD and World Heritage Site that was dedicated to the famous hermit, St Simeon the Stylite. This church was built around the pillar on which Simeon lived and prayed and became a major centre of pilgrimage. The church was heavily damaged by an air strike in 2015. (updated Oct 2017)
• 🌍 Great Mosque of Aleppo (جامع حلب الكبير). Also known as the Umayyad Mosque of Aleppo is the largest and one of the oldest mosques in Aleppo, built between the 11th and 14th centuries. Its minaret, dating back to 1090 along with other parts of the mosque was destroyed during the Syrian civil war in April 2013. Both the mosque and its minaret are to be rebuilt during the coming years. (updated Oct 2017)
• 🌍 National Museum of Aleppo. Archaeological museum documenting the history of Syria, it was hit by missiles in 2016 and most artifacts evacuated. But some of the larger statues can be seen outside. As of late 2017, it is not clear when the museum will reopen. (updated Dec 2017)

Do

Walk around the city at least a few times to really get a feel for what it is like. It is a vibrant and lively place that will continually surprise you. Any amount of time spent walking around the city will reveal another historical site or point of interest. Check out the Christian section of the city to see a different part of Aleppo. If you want to shop for clothes, al-Telal street is bustling nearly every night with crowds checking out the shops and street stands piled high with every type of clothing imaginable.

Buy

A quiet moment in the Aleppo Souq on Friday, before the civil war.

Gold: Although the prices are as high as they have ever been, gold is still a worthwhile purchase here. There is a special gold pattern called the Aleppo weave or chain that is made only in Aleppo. All gold is sold by weight and is 22 carat.

Boxes: Aleppo is also famous for its intricate inlay work that can be found in boxes of all shapes and sizes. These boxes are beautiful and can be found at almost all of the shops in the souq. A great, affordable gift to take home.

Wraps/Tablecloths: There are many nice wraps that can be worn as shawls or used as tablecloths that are also available everywhere in the souqs. Another good gift.

Sweets: Pistachios are everywhere in Aleppo and accordingly there are many different kinds of sweets made from the pistachio. These usually come in a decorative box and are yet another good gift.

Coffee and spices: It is impossible to walk through the souq without being caught up in the scent of freshly ground coffee and spices like cumin. You can also buy very ornate pots to make your coffee in.

Soap: One of the most famous Aleppine products is its olive oil soap. Many factories produce this using traditional techniques. The price varies from about SYP70 per kilo to as much as SYP400 or more depending on the proportion of olive and laurel oil, prices and assortment is better in the shops just in the 2 roads south of the Clock Tower rather than in the Souq's tourist traps, even if most shop keepers speak very little English (prices per kilo are clearly shown).

Eat

Sweets with pistachios.

Common Syrian street food like falafels and shwarma are excellent and available throughout the city. In the souks you will also find tiny restaurants with a few stools serving up dishes like Fuul (pronounced “fool”), a bean soup served with fresh bread, onions and mint. If you are adventurous, look for the men frying curry-flavoured pancakes near the entrance to the souk. The pancakes are wrapped in bread and topped with hot sauce. Also try and buy some of the freshly made pita bread that is sold everywhere as it is delicious.

For breakfast, a fresh glass of juice (SYP40 for a large glass of mixed juice, 50 SP for takeaway) and cheese sandwich (SYP15 ) can be had from the juice stands near the clock tower. Many cafés also serve great ice cream for a treat.

If you are tired after a day of wandering around the souk, try one of the cafés near the base of the citadel. They offer light snacks and drinks, including a wide range of coffees and refreshing glasses of minted lemonade.

Travellers on a strict budget should be prepared to eat very similar meals everyday as there is not a lot of variety in the diet at the cheaper end of the range.

There are plenty of good restaurants around and meals are very affordable.

In the Christian Quarter (El Jedeide) district

• La Gondole, ☎ [phone]. Cafe and restaurant featuring a Swimming pool with a sitting table around the pool and outdoors bar under the sunshine. 
• Al Mir, ☎ [phone]. Cafe and restaurant featuring a rerrace with views over the Aleppo Citadel. 
• Beit Sissy. A particularly good choice. It has a beautiful courtyard and their shish kebab in cherry sauce is out of this world! 
• Sheraton Hotel. It may seem wrong to come to Syria and head for the Sheraton but they do offer an excellent buffet breakfast for 600 SP which, if you're willing to splurge, makes a nice change from the typical Syrian fare and will set you up well for a day of exploring. They also do a fine cup of coffee.

In Aziziyeh

• Al- Challal
• WANES Restaurant

Drink

Alcohol is permitted but not widely available. You can find stores selling liquor on a few streets near the clocktower. Try Zaki al-Arsuzi (across from Al Kommeh restaurant) and Jbrail Dalal streets. There is a liquor store a few metres away from the Aleppo Hotel (on a side street from the clocktower). In the new city there is a store at Al Hateb square. Cost is usually SYP60 for an Efes 16oz (November 2010). Restaurants and hotels that cater to Westerners will generally serve alcoholic beverages.

There is one local beer, called Al-Sharq, while the Damascus brew Barada may also be found. Neither are exactly lethal - 3.7% and 3.4% respectively.

A wide range of other beers from the Middle East and Europe can also be found, usually about SYP50 for a large can, along with wines from Syria, Lebanon and France, starting at SYP150 a bottle.

Arak is a local aniseed spirit which can be found at some small shops.

• 🌍 Al Attar Cafe (مطعم و كافتيريا العطار) (In front of Aleppo citadel). Popular café with magnificent views over the entrance of Aleppo citadel. (updated Sep 2018)

Sleep

Budget

• Al-Gawaher – Bab al-Faraj Street, Behind Library. Perhaps the best backpacker spot in Aleppo. Rooms have satellite TV and both en suite and shared bathrooms are very clean. Many have balconies and others overlook a common area, where travellers often meet to chat. The rooftop gives great views over the city and is another nice spot to spend the evening. Staff are friendly and English is spoken. Tours can be arranged to the Dead Cities, Apamea and other sites. The only possible downside is that staff are late risers and so getting breakfast can be a problem. Breakfast is not included. There is, however, free coffee and tea available 24/7.
• Hotel Alnagm Alakhdar (aka Hotel Green Star) – Around the corner from the Al-Gawaher on Sharia Hammam Al Tal (next to the Sheraton parking entrance off the Clock Tower end of Bab El Faraj - it could not be more central - 963-21-212 60 23, mob. [phone]), it also has a nice roof terrace but the atmosphere is not nearly as lively. The rooms come with sinks and fans or aircom. There are no TVs in the rooms but two shared ones: one in the lounge and the second one on the top floor. Try and get one on the top floor that opens onto the roof terrace. Staff speak a little English but are very helpful. A double with private bathroom goes for SYP700 as of December 2011 (+100 extra for air conditioning), and SYP350 for a bed in a 3-bed dorm as of May 2010. Breakfast is not included.
• Hotel Kaser Alandaloss - Just off Bab Al-Faraj Street, in sight of the clock tower on a small block, nestled between a couple of soap merchant stores. The rooms are nice, and they have excellent showers and a comfortable central area to sit, eat, use the internet. There's no option for breakfast, but if you want some tea or some food, they are more than likely to make some for you. Around SYP1200 for a twin room with a bathroom.

Mid-range

• 🌍 Dar Halabia Hotel, Bab Antakya (Inside the old souk), ☎ [phone]. (updated Jul 2018)

Splurge

Hotels open as of Summer 2018:

• 🌍 Park Hotel, Baghdad Station St, ☎ [phone], fax: [phone], e-mail: [e-mail]. Located in the middle of the city centre. Ten minutes walk to the city centre, and 5 minutes by car to the old souks. Free WiFi internet access in all around the hotel with high speed line. Laundry and pressing service. Airport pick-up and drop-off service. (updated Jan 2018)
• 🌍 Sheraton Hotel Aleppo, Al Khandaq St, ☎ [phone]. Reopened in 2018, this is the most luxurious hotel available in Aleppo. Despite its name, the hotel is not part of the Sheraton hotel chain. (updated Sep 2018)

Hotels that are closed as of Summer 2018:

• 🌍 Baron Hotel (Corner of Baron St and Yarmouk St). A colonial throwback - the hotel opened in 1909 - whose former guests include Agatha Christie (who wrote much of Murder on the Orient Express here), T.E. Lawrence (Lawrence of Arabia), Ataturk and Teddy Roosevelt. During latter years the hotel developed the charm of a place that had seen better days. Residents and visitors alike also took the effort to pop into the bar to have a drink and marvel a showpiece at a bygone era. Bombarded during the civil war and forced to close in 2014, it is as of 2017 unclear if and when this historic hotel will reopen. (updated Oct 2017)
• Beit Wakil (from Jdeideh Square, walk down the street into the old city and turn right at the first alley, called Sissi St), ☎ [phone], fax: [phone], e-mail: [e-mail]. A great small boutique hotel in the Christian quarter. Renovated old building with a nice courtyard. The restaurant is very good but a bit touristy. Doubles US$121. 
• Ramsis Hotel, ☎ [phone], fax: [phone], e-mail: [e-mail]. Very centrally located close to the citadel and old Christian quarter, one minute away from the museum. A three-star, deluxe hotel. Very comfortable and well-furnished 28 rooms and 8 suites, a street side cafeteria (Down Town Cafe), an open terrace restaurant (The Green Roof), a gift shop, a news-stand and internet access. 

Connect

An internet access in the old town and near the main attractions (the Citadel, the Souq and the Grand Mosque) can be found at Tara Cafe. It is located in the underground lair of the caravansaray of the Adlliyah Mosque and provides standard rates for internet access. It is not an internet cafe, but rather a cafe that provides internet access as a service on laptops that can be rented by the hour.

The Friends Cafe Net is also located in the area of the Citadel. From the entrance to the Citadel, walk straight (south) to a block with shawarma & chicken outlets on the ground floor. The cafe is located just behind the block in a small street called "Jnenyt al-Fariq(1)" (SYP40/hour). From the outlets, follow the street to your right, turn left then immediately right.

The closest internet cafe to most of the budget hotels, in the Bab al-Faraj area, is the Concord, which is in an ice cream parlor and cafe by the same name. It charges SYP100 an hour which is outrageous for Aleppo and Syria and general.

The other internet cafe within walking distance is at Adam Cafe, across the street from the Baron Hotel. Nevertheless, the internet cafe is located in the bottom story of an all-male tea house which may make female customers feel uncomfortable. If you wander around the new Christian quarter of al-Aziziyeh you can find many internet cafes such as Area 51, Montana and Kool Net which charge only SYP50 an hour for high speed access. All of the aforementioned cafes provide discount cards for chunks of time.

Stay safe

Many buildings in the city, particularly in the Salaheddin neighborhood and surrounding areas, have been damaged severely by the civil war. Buildings can and do collapse, often with deadly consequences. Stay away from buildings that have sustained heavy damage or look structurally unstable.

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