Wendell Rodricks

Wendell Rodricks (28 May 1960 – 12 February 2020) was an Indian fashion designer and author based in the Indian state of Goa.[1] He was also an activist for social causes, the environment, and gay rights.[2] In 2014, the Government of India conferred upon him its fourth-highest civilian award, the Padma Shri.[3]

Wendell Rodricks
Rodricks at the launch of his book Poskem: Goans In The Shadows in Mumbai in 2017
Born(1960-05-28)28 May 1960
Parel, Bombay
Died12 February 2020(2020-02-12) (aged 59)
Colvale, Goa
NationalityIndian
Occupation
  • Fashion designer
  • author
Spouse(s)
Jerome Marrel
(
m. after 2002)
Awards
  • Padma Shri (2014)
  • Chevalier de l'Ordre des Arts et Lettres (2015)
Websitewendellrodricks.com

Early life

Rodricks was born on 28 May 1960[4][5] to the Goan Catholic family of Greta and Felix in Parel, Bombay.[6] He was the eldest brother to Robin, Chester and Joel.[7] The original surname of the family was "Rodrigues", but changed to "Rodricks" after a misspelling during his grandfather's time. He grew up in Mahim[6] and attended St. Michael's High School in Mahim. After completing school, he took a graduate diploma in catering.[8] After this, he joined as Assistant Director of the Royal Oman Police (ROP) Officers Club in the city of Muscat in 1982.[9] However, he did not pursue these professions but moved to fashion designing. He began by using his savings to study fashion in Los Angeles and Paris.[10]

Career

Fashion

Rodricks began his career in fashion by designing for Garden Vareli, Lakmé Cosmetics and DeBeers.[11] When in Paris with his first portfolio in hand, he was advised to put "your country in your clothes".[12] He launched his own label in 1989 with his first show held at the Regal Room of the Oberoi Hotel, Mumbai.[13] His first collection consisted of twelve ensembles, with model Mehr Jesia. Out of these, only six were complete outfits. He did not have enough funds for supplying all models with shoes or bottoms for their organza tunics.[14] Henceforth, Rodricks' work involved a wide range of fashion, from lecturing on world costume history (at SNDT Women's University) to fashion journalism and styling for international advertising campaigns.[10] He was the first Indian designer to be invited to IGEDO (the world's largest garment fair) in 1995; the first Indian designer to open the Dubai Fashion Week in 2001; and was invited to present at the Paris Fashion Week Pret a Porter salon in 2007.[15] He was a fellow design member of the Fashion Design Council of India.[16][17]

Rodricks was known for pioneering the idea of resort wear and for advocating eco-friendly fashion. In 2010, he revived the traditional Goan attire of the kunbi sari. He convinced Pratibha Patil, Priyanka Gandhi and Sonia Gandhi to be its patrons, thus increasing the cost from a meagre Rs. 700 to more than Rs. 7000, for the benefit of the weavers.[18] He was also a part of the khadi movement, and even promoted it at the world's largest organic fair, BioFach, at Nuremberg, Germany, in 2011 when he was invited there.[19] In 2017, he presented a collection for plus-size women at the Lakme Fashion Week in 2017.[20][21]

Rodricks dressed many over the decades. When his close friend Lisa Ray decided to get married in 2012, she chose a gown designed by him.[22] In 2014, he paid tribute to actress Rekha at the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week (WIFW), on the occasion of her 60th birthday.[23] Rodricks helped Deepika Padukone, who had been modelling with him for roughly two years then, grab her role in Om Shanti Om by recommending her to Malaika Arora, who in turn recommended her to Farah Khan in 2007.[24] He also helped Anushka Sharma, launching her as a model in his 2007 Les Vamps Show at the Lakme Fashion Week and encouraged her to move to Mumbai when she was just 18 years old.[25]

In 2016, he announced his retirement from his label, to concentrate on his museum. He handed over creative control to his student, Schulen Fernandes, who first worked with him in 1999.[15]

Acting

Rodricks made cameo appearances in the 2003 film Boom and in the television play True West in 2002. He also played himself in the 2008 film Fashion.[11][26]

Writing

Rodricks contributed to journals of travel and art, and wrote about food, especially Goan cuisine.[27]

In 1998, Mario Miranda requested Rodricks to write a chapter on the history of the Pano Bhaju, a traditional outfit worn to perform the mando in Goa. This inspired Rodricks to research it in detail. He then interned at the National Museum of Costume and Fashion in Lisbon (on the conservation of pre-21st century garments) and the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York City (on modern garments, under the museum's director, Valerie Steele) in the early 2000s. He also learned the Portuguese language to be able to read relevant documents, and finally traced the history of the Pano Bhaju to the Silk route.[10][28] He finally published the results of his years of research on Goa's costumes in his first book, Moda Goa: History and Style, in 2012.[29]

Later in 2012, Rodricks released his autobiography, titled The Green Room. It came about as the result of a writing challenge by a fellow author.[30][31]

In 2017, he released Poskem: Goans in the Shadows. It is a work of fiction about poskem, the adopted children of well-off Goan families, who are never treated with respect, and in some cases are even victims of abuse.[32][33] The book features illustrations by Mario Miranda.[27]

Books
Year of PublicationNameNotesReference
2012Moda Goa: History and StyleGoan Fashion[34][35]
2012The Green Room Autobiography[36]
2017Poskem: Goans in the Shadows[37][38]

Other pursuits

From 1993 on Rodricks resided in a 450-year-old house in Colvale, named "Casa Dona Maria". In 2016, he and his husband moved to a smaller house nearby to convert the larger one into a museum of Goan fashion,[34] Named the "Moda Goa Museum and Research Centre". The museum is now slated to open to the public in March 2020.[39] Rodricks worked on collecting exhibits for it since 1998, when he began his research into Goa's costumes and clothing. He had since collected 800 exhibits, ranging from an original pano bhaju, to Reita Faria's bathing suit (which won her the title of Miss World in 1966), to an apsara found in a nearby field dating to a Buddhist monastery from the 7th century.[10][28]

Rodricks was also one of the speakers at TEDxPanaji 2019.[40]

Activism

Rodricks wrote a column in the Goa-based monthly Goa Today, where he often raised issues of social concerns and the environment.[41] In the mid-2000s, he began a mailing list with Margaret Mascarenhas, urging citizens to report cases of lack of waste management.[42] He spoke out against the IRFW (India Resort Fashion Week) in 2012 stating that it "damages the environment".[43] In 2018, he started a helpline for the LGBTQ community with the help of Ruby Almeida, the co-chair of Global Network of Rainbow Catholics.[44] In 2019, he petitioned against the demolition of a 100-year-old church in Colvale, Goa.[45] He had previously closed one of his boutiques in a resort owned by a mine owner, in protest of the illegal mining in Goa. He also unsuccessfully campaigned against the cutting down of six mango trees to make a highway in Colvale, citing that they were more than 200 years old.[42]

Awards
  • Padma Shri in 2014[3][46]
  • Chevalier de l'Ordre des Arts et Lettres (transl. Knight of the Order of Arts and Letters) in 2015[47]
  • Rainbow Warrior Award in 2014 by Kashish Film Festival[1][48]

Reception

In December 2016, Rodricks displayed his collection of the history of Goan costumes at the Serendipity Arts Festival. However, Goa University's professor and head of the history department Dr. Pratima Kamat pointed out historical inaccuracies in the text displayed alongside the exhibits.[49]

In 2018, Rodricks accused Payal Khandwala, whom he had previously mentored, of copying his technique of pleating the fabric.[50]

Personal life

Rodricks was homosexual and married Jerome Marrel in a civil ceremony in Paris in 2002,[51] to the initial displeasure of his family. He met Marrel in Oman through a friend who set them up while Rodricks was working there for the Royal Oman Police (ROP) Officers Club in 1983. Rodricks credited Marrel for his success as a fashion designer, in his autobiography, The Green Room.[36] They both loved travelling and had visited over 150 countries together.[52]

Rodricks was a Roman Catholic. He was the godfather of Arhaan Khan, the son of the film-maker Arbaaz Khan and his ex-wife Malaika Arora.[53] Rodricks played a large role in forming the career of Arora and remained close to her and her family.[54]

Rodricks lived and worked in Bombay (Mumbai) until the 1993 Bombay bombings, following which he moved to his hometown, the village of Colvale in Goa. He lived there with his partner, Marrell, and their pet dogs. He donated towards the improvement of the village and started a scholarship for the toppers of the schools of the village, in memory of his parents.[6]

Death

Rodricks died on 12 February 2020 at his home in Colvale, Goa, at the age of 59.[55] On 13 February, the Goa Police announced that they were still investigating the cause of his death, although it was allegedly reported that he had been suffering from a prolonged illness.[56] A close friend of his reported that he had died due to heart failure during an afternoon nap. His funeral was held on 13 February at the St Francis of Assisi Church, Colvale.[57]

gollark: Great apart from the fact that the company collapsed a year or so afterward and the battery's not swappable.
gollark: I got one of these aeons ago: https://wileyfox.com/collections/swift/products/swift-2-champagne-gold
gollark: No, it's 720p.
gollark: I don't go staring at mine saying "hmm yes this pixel here is blue".
gollark: Why do you care? Phone screens are hardly big.

References
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  2. Saran, Sathya (15 November 2012). "He's quite an activist: Jerome Marrel on his partner, Wendell Rodricks". Firstpost. Retrieved 26 March 2019.
  3. "Padma Shri to Wendell Rodricks would help LGBT Community in India". Biharprabha News. Indo-Asian News Service. Retrieved 27 January 2014.
  4. "Wendell Rodricks to interact with students". The Hindu. 4 November 2015. ISSN 0971-751X. Retrieved 18 May 2019.
  5. "The top fashion designers in India". FashionFresta.com. 12 October 2014. Retrieved 18 May 2019.
  6. Nair, Smita (24 February 2020). "Wendell's Goa: How a sleepy village fell in love with a gay 'ladies tailor'". The Indian Express. Retrieved 12 April 2020.
  7. "Padma Shri Wendell Rodricks laid to rest in Colvale". The Navhind Times. 13 February 2020. Retrieved 20 May 2020.
  8. Sita Menon (18 July 2003). "Fashion is not important: Wendell Rodricks". Rediff.com. Retrieved 13 December 2008.
  9. Basu, Soma (3 April 2019). "I had to learn driving twice". The Hindu. ISSN 0971-751X. Retrieved 17 May 2019.
  10. Khan, Sarah A. (30 March 2019). "Isn't Goa Style a Bikini? Not According to a New Museum". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 18 May 2019.
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  13. "Fashion's vision". The Indian Express. 14 February 2020. Retrieved 9 June 2020.
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