Stefan Glowacz

Stefan Glowacz
Personal information
Nationality	German
Born	March 22, 1965; Tittmoning, Bavaria, Germany
	Climbing career
Type of climber	Sport climbing, mountaineering
Highest grade	Redpoint: 8c (5.14b);
Sport
Retired	1993
IFSC World Championships
	Updated on 1 April 2013.

Stefan Glowacz (born March 22, 1965 in Tittmoning) is a professional rock climber and adventurer.[1] He started climbing at the age of 12 and advanced to one of the world's best sports climbers only few years later. Since 1993 he has been devoted to natural challenges such as expeditions to remote places in Canada,[2] Patagonia and Antarctica.

Success in sport climbing

1985 Sportroccia
1987, 1988, 1992 Rock Master
Winner of the Olympic Games' demonstration challenge in Albertville
1993 Vice World Champion

Achievements in rock climbing

In 1994, Glowacz climbed "The Emperor's New Clothes" (X+/8b+/5.14a), elected the hardest route in the Alps for at least 9 years
First ascents of big walls at the Una Peaks (Cape Renard Towers) in Antarctica; Tupilak and Ulamartorsuaq, respectively in Eastern and Southern Greenland; and Mount Harrison Smith in Canada
In 2001, he succeeded to be the first in fulfilling the trilogy of hardest multipitch routes of the Alps (all established in 1994), including Thomas Huber's "End of Silence" (X/8b/5.13d) near Berchtesgaden and Beat Kammerlander's "Silbergeier" ("Silver Vulture") (X/8b/5.13d) in the Rätikon
In 2006, he was nominated for the Piolet d'Or for establishing a 27-pitch route (IX+/7c+/5.13a, A2, M4) up the north wall of the Mullarón in Patagonia.

Books, Films

Jäger des Augenblicks
Richtig Freiklettern
Rocks around the World
Hoch hinaus
Titlis – Chronik einer Erstbegehung, DVD
The Race, DVD
On the Rocks - Leben an den Fingerspitzen (2005, Piper)
Cerro Torre: Scream of the Stone, (1991, directed by Werner Herzog), DVD

Seven Giants controversy

In winter 2013, Glowacz climbed up on one of the pillars of the Manpupuner rock formations in the Komi Republic, Russia. However, the local Mansi people, who worship the pillars, consider it a great sin to climb those peaks. The pillars have also been recognized as one of the Seven Wonders of Russia, and are a protected site threatened by erosion caused by unauthorized tourists, as in this case. [3] [4] [5]

gollark: ææ indeed!

gollark: ...

gollark: In mine, the position to `i` to is modulusinated with the length, so it loops to the start or something.

gollark: How many bytes™? What language?

gollark: I'll golf it if someone actually makes a smaller competitor.

References

Scott, Chic (2000). Pushing the limits: the story of Canadian mountaineering. Rocky Mountain Books Ltd. pp. 407–. ISBN 978-0-921102-59-5. Retrieved 27 November 2010.
George, Caroline (June 27, 2008). "More Details on Baffin's "Long Way Home"". The Alpinist. Retrieved 27 November 2010.
"Sacred for Mansi Manpupuner rock formations may fall in the near future". 2013-09-23. Retrieved 24 September 2013.
"Немецкий альпинист повредил одно из семи чудес России". 2013-04-21. Retrieved 24 September 2013.
"STEFAN GLOWACZ CONQUERS THE SEVEN GIANTS IN SIBERIA". Retrieved 24 September 2013.

External links

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[Scott2000-1] Scott, Chic (2000). Pushing the limits: the story of Canadian mountaineering. Rocky Mountain Books Ltd. pp. 407–. ISBN 978-0-921102-59-5. Retrieved 27 November 2010.

[2] George, Caroline (June 27, 2008). "More Details on Baffin's "Long Way Home"". The Alpinist. Retrieved 27 November 2010.

[3] "Sacred for Mansi Manpupuner rock formations may fall in the near future". 2013-09-23. Retrieved 24 September 2013.

[4] "Немецкий альпинист повредил одно из семи чудес России". 2013-04-21. Retrieved 24 September 2013.

[5] "STEFAN GLOWACZ CONQUERS THE SEVEN GIANTS IN SIBERIA". Retrieved 24 September 2013.