Mirepoix (cuisine)

A mirepoix (/mɪərˈpwɑː/ meer-PWAH; French pronunciation: ​[miʁˈpwa]) is a flavor base made from cooked, diced vegetables, usually with butter, oil, or other fat, for a long time on a low heat without coloring or browning, as further cooking, often with the addition of tomato purée, creates a darkened brown mixture called pincage (French: pinçage). It is not sautéed or otherwise hard cooked, because the intention is to sweeten the ingredients rather than caramelize them. It is a long-standing cooking technique in French cuisine.

Uncooked mirepoix on a cutting board, with the addition of leeks

When the mirepoix is not precooked, the constituent vegetables may be cut to a larger size, depending on the overall cooking time for the dish. Usually the vegetable mixture is onions, carrots, and celery (either common 'pascal' celery or celeriac), with the traditional ratio being 2:1:1, two parts onion, one part carrot, and one part celery.[1] Mirepoix is the flavor base for a wide variety of Western dishes: stocks, soups, stews and sauces.

Similar flavor bases include the Italian soffritto, the Spanish and Portuguese sofrito/refogado (braised onions, garlic and tomato), as well as the Turkish variation with tomato paste instead of fresh tomato of the eastern Mediterranean/Balkan region, the German Suppengrün (leeks, carrots and celeriac), the Polish włoszczyzna (leeks, carrots, celery root and parsley root), the Russian/Ukrainian smazhennya or zazharka (onion, carrot and possibly celery, beets or pepper), the United States Cajun/Creole holy trinity (onions, celery and bell peppers), and possibly the French duxelles (mushrooms and often onion or shallot and herbs, reduced to a paste).

History

Though the cooking technique is probably older, the word mirepoix dates from the 18th century and derives, as do many other appellations in French cuisine,[2] from the aristocratic employer of the cook credited with establishing and stabilizing it: in this case,[3] Charles-Pierre-Gaston François de Lévis, duc de Lévis-Mirepoix (1699–1757), French field marshal and ambassador and a member of the noble family of Lévis, lords of Mirepoix, Ariège, in Languedoc since the 11th century.[4] According to Pierre Larousse (quoted in The Oxford Companion to Food), the unfortunate Duke of Mirepoix was "an incompetent and mediocre individual ... who owed his vast fortune to the affection Louis XV felt toward his wife and who had but one claim to fame: he gave his name to a sauce made of all kinds of meat and a variety of seasonings".[5]

The term is not encountered regularly in French culinary texts until the 19th century, so it is difficult to know what a dish à la mirepoix was like in 18th-century France. Antoine Beauvilliers,[6] for instance, in 1814, gives a short recipe for a Sauce à la Mirepoix which is a buttery, wine-laced stock garnished with an aromatic mixture of carrots, onions, and a bouquet garni. Marie-Antoine Carême, in 1816, gives a similar recipe, calling it simply "Mire-poix".[7] By the mid-19th century, Jules Gouffé refers to mirepoix as "a term in use for such a long time that I do not hesitate to use it here".[8] His mirepoix is listed among essences and, indeed, is a meaty concoction (laced with two bottles of Madeira), which, like all other essences, was used to enrich many a classic sauce. By the end of the 19th century, the mirepoix had taken on its modern meaning. Joseph Favre, in his Dictionnaire universel de cuisine (circa 1895, reprinted 1978), uses the term to describe a mixture of ham, carrots, onions, and herbs used as an aromatic condiment when making sauces or braising meat.[9] The matignon is very similar to the mirepoix, except that the matignon is designed to be brought to the table and eaten with the dish or alone as a side dish.[9]

According to the 1938 Larousse Gastronomique, a mirepoix may be prepared au gras (with meat) or au maigre ('lean').[10] Mirepoix au maigre is sometimes called a brunoise[11] (though strictly speaking this term more accurately merely designates the technique of dicing with a knife). A mirepoix au gras contains diced ham or pork belly as an additional ingredient. Similar combinations, both in and out of the French culinary repertoire, may include leeks, parsnips, garlic, tomatoes, shallots, mushrooms, bell peppers, chilies, and ginger, according to the requirements of the regional cuisine or the instructions of the particular chef or recipe.[12] The analogous soffritto (frequently containing parsley) is the basis for many traditional dishes in classic Italian cuisine, and the sofrito serves a similar purpose in Spanish cuisines. In Cajun and Creole cuisine, a mirepoix or (jocularly so-called) "holy trinity" is a combination of onions, celery, and bell peppers.

Traditionally, the weight ratio for mirepoix is 2:1:1 of onions, celery, and carrots;[1] the ratio for bones to mirepoix for stock is 10:1. When making a white stock, or fond blanc, parsnips are used instead of carrots to maintain the pale color.

International versions

German Suppengrün

Suppengrün [ˈzʊpm̩ˌɡʁyːn] means 'soup greens' in German; the Dutch equivalent is soepgroente'. Soup greens usually come in a bundle and consists of a leek, a carrot, and a piece of celeriac. It may also contain parsley, thyme, celery leaves, rutabaga (swede), parsley root, and onions. The mix depends on regional traditions, as well as individual recipes. The vegetables used are cold-climate roots and bulbs with long shelf lives. Suppengrün act as herbs and impart hearty, strong flavors to the soup or sauce, providing a foil for other strong tasting ingredients such as dried peas and beans or pot roast.[13] Large chunks of vegetables are slow cooked to make flavorful soups and stocks, and are discarded when the vegetables have given up most of their flavor. Finely chopped suppengrün are browned in fat and used as a basis for a finished sauce. The vegetables may also be cooked long enough until they fall apart, and may become part of the sauce or pureed to form the sauce.

Italian soffritto
"Soffritto" redirects here. It is not to be confused with Sofrito.

In Italian cuisine, in a particular type of Soffritto, onions, carrots and celery are chopped to form a battuto,[14] and then slowly cooked[15] in olive oil, becoming soffritto.[16] It is used as the base for most pasta sauces, such as ragù, but occasionally it can be used as the base of other dishes, such as sauteed vegetables. For this reason, it is a fundamental component in Italian cuisine. It may also contain garlic,[17] shallot, or leek.[18]

According to the Italian restaurateur Benedetta Vitali, soffritto means 'underfried' and describes it as "a preparation of lightly browned minced vegetables, not a dish by itself." At one time it was called "false ragout", because soffritto was thought to vaguely recall the flavor of meat sauce.[19]

Polish włoszczyzna
A typical set of soup greens, known as włoszczyzna, used in Polish cuisine: carrots, parsley root and leaves, leek, and celeriac. Bay leaves and allspice grains are also shown.

Włoszczyzna [vwɔʂˈt͡ʂɨzna] is the Polish word for soup vegetables or greens. The word literally means "Italian stuff" because Queen Bona Sforza, who was Italian and married Polish King Sigismund I the Old in 1518, introduced this concept to Polish cuisine.[20] A włoszczyzna may consist of carrots, parsnips or parsley root, celery root or celeriac, leeks, and savoy or white cabbage leaves, and sometimes celery leaves and flat-leaf parsley. The most typical, packaged combination is celery root, parsley root, carrots, and leeks. Włoszczyzna is usually cut up to uniform size and boiled to form a flavor base for soups and stews.

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See also

References
  1. The Culinary Institute of America (2011). The Professional Chef (9th ed.). Hoboken, New Jersey: John Wiley & Sons. ISBN 978-0-470-42135-2. OCLC 707248142.
  2. Vitaux, Jean. "Peut-on écrire l'histoire de la gastronomie?". canalacademie.com (in French).
  3. "Petit lexique culinaire". chefsimon.com (in French). Archived from the original on 2007-01-18.
  4. French Wikipedia: Maison de Lévis.
  5. Alan Davidson; Tom Jaine (21 September 2006). The Oxford Companion to Food. Oxford: Oxford University Press. p. 511. ISBN 978-0-19-280681-9.
  6. French cuisine §Food establishments §History.
  7. Marie Antonin Carême; Armand Plumery (1817). L'art de la cuisine française au dix-neuvième siècle: traité élémentaire et pratique ... de Kerangué & Pollés Libraires-éditeurs. p. 66.
  8. Alan Davidson; Tom Jaine (21 August 2014). The Oxford Companion to Food (3rd ed.). Oxford: Oxford University Press. p. 526. ISBN 0199677336.
  9. Alan Davidson, Oxford Companion to Food (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1999), p. 509.
  10. Since the 17th century, recipe books in France had been organized so readers could plan meals in accordance with prescribed days for fasting according to the Catholic liturgical calendar. See Sean Takats, The Expert Cook in Enlightenment France (Baltimore, Maryland: Johns Hopkins University Press) p. 110.
  11. Larousse Gastronomique, Montagné, Prosper, and Gottschalk, eds., introduction by A. Escoffier and Philéas Gilbert (Paris: Librerie Larousse, 1938), p. 690.
  12. The 1938 Larousse (op. cit.) recommends the addition of thyme and powdered bay leaf to the mirepoix au maigre, for example.
  13. "Use Carrots, Onions and Leeks for German Soup Greens".
  14. "Onions, Carrot and Celery". www.italiana.co.uk. Retrieved 13 October 2018.
  15. "The Secret Weapon in Italian Cooking". tastingtable.com. 5 July 2016. Retrieved 13 October 2018.
  16. Randhawa, Jessica (November 5, 2019). "What is Mirepoix? How to make and use Mirepoix". The Forked Spoon. Retrieved 23 November 2019.
  17. "Marinara Sauce - Soffritto Style". CookingWineandTravel.com. Retrieved 13 October 2018.
  18. "Chef Jerry Corso Gets Cooking with Soffritto". seattlemag.com. 15 March 2016. Retrieved 13 October 2018.
  19. Benedetta Vitali, Soffritto: Tradition and Innovation in Tuscan Cooking (Berkeley, Toronto: Ten Speed Press, 2001), pp. 7–8.
  20. Wloszczyzna Archived 2014-03-28 at the Wayback Machine about.com
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