Shalimar (perfume)
Shalimar is a perfume originally created by Jacques Guerlain in 1921 and currently produced as the flagship product by Guerlain.[1]
| Shalimar | |
|---|---|
 | |
| Fragrance by Jacques Guerlain | |
| Type | Oriental fragrance: Floral and Amber-woody scent. |
| Released | 1921 |
| Label | Guerlain |
| Website | www.guerlain.com |
History
Shalimar was created by Jacques Guerlain in 1921, but after another company claimed to already have a fragrance by the same name, Guerlain was forced to rename the fragrance "No. 90" until a legal dispute over the name was settled.[2] Shalimar was re-released in 1925 at the International Exposition of Modern Industrial and Decorative Arts.[2]
Jacques Guerlain was inspired by Mumtaz Mahal,[3] the wife of Shah Jahan, Mughal emperor of India,[4] and for whom the Taj Mahal in Agra and the Shalimar Gardens in Lahore were built.[5] The harmony of Shalimar was created when Jacques Guerlain poured a bottle of ethylvanillin into a bottle of Jicky, a fragrance created by Guerlain in 1889.[1]
Raymond Guerlain designed the bottle for Shalimar, which was modeled after the basins of eastern gardens and Mongolian stupa art. Shalimar's blue, fan-shaped bottle topper was inspired by a piece of silverware owned by the Guerlain family. The bottle was manufactured by Baccarat Crystal and received the Decorative Arts Exhibition Award in 1925.[1][6]
During the 1920s, Shalimar was popular with flappers which helped give it a "bad girl" reputation.[7]
In 1985, Shalimar was repackaged and presented encased in a Lucite box to commemorate the 60th anniversary of its original launch.[5] In 2004, Guerlain issued Shalimar Light by perfumer Mathilde Laurent. However, Shalimar Light was taken off the market and replaced by Eau de Shalimar in 2008.[8]
Shalimar is preserved in its original 1925 formulation in the archives of the Osmothèque, donated by Jean-Paul Guerlain.[9] As of 2017, Shalimar was Guerlain's second best selling fragrance, behind La Petite Robe Noire, with approximately 108 bottles being sold every hour.[1]
Scent
The fragrance contains notes of bergamot, lemon, iris, jasmine, rose, patchouli, vetiver, opopanax, tonka bean, frankincense, sandalwood, musk, civet, ambergris, leather, and vanilla. It is considered to be an Oriental perfume (see Fragrance Wheel).[10]
Marketing
Illustrator Lyse Darcy created many illustrated ads for Guerlain products, including Shalimar, from the 1930s through the 1950s.[11] Photographs taken by Helmut Newton were used in a print campaign for Shalimar in 1997.[12]
In 2013, Guerlain produced an advertisement titled "The Legend of Shalimar," featuring Natalia Vodianova.[13] The advertisement was directed by Bruno Aveillan and featured music by Hans Zimmer that had been originally composed for The Da Vinci Code.[14]
In popular culture
In the musical La Cage Aux Folles, Shalimar is mentioned in the song "A Little More Mascara".[15]
In the song Madame George, off his 1968 album, Astral Weeks, Van Morrison sings, "of sweet perfume...like Shalimar."
In the episode "In Camelot" of The Sopranos, Junior Soprano mentions sending bottles of Shalimar to Fran.[16]
In the 1989 Gene Wilder and Richard Pryor movie "See No Evil, Hear No Evil", Richard Pryor's blind character identifies the villainess played by Joan Severance by the smell of Shalimar.[17]
In the 1971 movie The Mephisto Waltz, Shalimar is the perfume favored by Jacqueline Bisset's character, Paula.[18]
In the 1981 movie The Four Seasons, Shalimar is given as a gift.[19]
Shalimar is mentioned during an episode of "NCIS" (Season 11, Episode 12).[20]
In the Mad Men episode "The Long Weekend", Joan Holloway's roommate notices that Joan is wearing Shalimar.[21]
In the novel "L'Indic", by Roger Borniche the aristocrat Sylvia de Neyrac utilizes Shalimar to fascinate the policemen Roger Borniche.
In the novel "War Cry", by Wilbur Smith (with David Churchill), Saffron is caught attempting to descend the Cresta Run in St. Moritz due to her forgetting that she had used the perfume Shalimar following her morning shower.
In the 1988 movie "Working Girl", Katharine asks Tess to get her bottle of Shalimar.[22]
In the novel "Angel of Baker Street", by Catherine Bell, Olivia always pictures her mother in her mind whenever she caught a hint of the perfume. Olivia is also given a bottle of Shalimar as a gift by Dominique, who had protected her during Olivia's stay in Paris.
In an episode of Orange Is The New Black (S1:E6 "WAC Pack"), Nicky describes Piper as smelling of Shalimar after she receives a hug from her mother during visitation.[23]
In 1991, Louise Bourgeois created Cell II, a work of art which featured multiple empty and nearly-empty bottles of Shalimar on top of a mirrored table and next to a sculpture of wringing hands.[24]
In the 1991 novel Wise Children, by Angela Carter, Nora Chance wears Shalimar. This is the only way other characters can distinguish her from her twin sister Dora, who wears Mitsouko.
In season 2, episode 12 of The Nanny, Fran remembers her aunt Mima smelling of stuffed cabbage and Shalimar under her mink coat.
In season 3 episode 10 of "Love", Mickey (Gillian Jacobs) tells her boyfriend Gus (Paul Rust) that his childhood home smells like "laundry detergent, ham, and Shalimar."
In season 1 episode 19 of "Person of Interest," villain Elias remembers his mother wearing Shalimar perfume.
S5:E11 of American Horror Story': While pouring herself a drink, the Countess realizes that Ramona Royale has entered her suite behind her back. Without turning around the Countess says, "It’s not the Shalimar that gives you away - it’s your blood."[25]
In the 2018 novel "Greeks Bearing Gifts", by Philip Kerr, the anti-hero, Bernie Gunther (alias Christof Ganz) comments upon Elli Panatoniou's Shalimar perfume as having the effect of “making a woman smell like a woman and making a man want to behave like a rampaging gorilla”.
In the 2018 novel "Lethal White", by Robert Galbraith, the private detective, Cormoran Strike about his ex girlfriend, Charlotte "...could smell what he knew to be Shalimar on her skin. She had worn it since she was nineteen and he had sometimes bought it for her."
Mentioned in two Fannie Flagg novels, in the plot of one (Welcome to the World, Baby Girl) of which it is a clue to the mystery.
References
- Pellen, Guenola (12 January 2017). "Iconic: Shalimar, the Perfume of the Roaring Twenties". France-Amerique. France-Amerique. Retrieved 8 January 2018.
- "Shalimar de Guerlain: Discover This Vintage Fragrance". Vintage Industrial Style. Retrieved 8 January 2018.
- Shalimar fragrantica accessed 12/4/2014
- "Mumtaz Mahal | Facts, History, Tomb, & Biography". Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved 2019-07-28.
- "The Encyclopaedia of Perfume". Perfume Intelligence. Retrieved 2011-02-26.
- Godin, Virginie (25 September 2014). "Getting to Know the Oldest Fragrances on the Market". Osmoz. Retrieved 9 January 2018.
- "Best in Show: Shalimar by Guerlain (2017)". Fragrantica. 6 January 2018. Retrieved 8 January 2018.
- Burr, Chandler (2008-03-13). "Scent Notes | Eau de Shalimar by Guerlain - NYTimes.com". nytimes.com. Retrieved 2011-02-26.
- Osmothèque - Conservatoire international des parfums. Official website. Web. 18 June 2013.
- "Shalimar by Guerlain (1925) - Basenotes Fragrance Directory". Basenotes.net. Retrieved 2018-01-09.
- Mercedes (9 January 2013). "Illustrated highlights of beauty ads from Guerlain". El Fashionista. Retrieved 9 January 2018.
- "New Campaigns: Eastern". AdWeek. AdWeek. 22 September 1997. Retrieved 9 January 2018.
- Young, Katy (10 September 2013). "Natalia Vodianova stars in Guerlain's Legend of Shalimar". Telegraph.co.uk. Retrieved 9 January 2018.
- Thielman, Sam (28 August 2013). "Ad of the Day: Guerlain Goes to the Ends of the Earth in the Year's Most Lavish Spot". AdWeek. Retrieved 9 January 2018.
- Kuchwara, Michael (18 April 2010). "A riotous 'La Cage aux Folles' returns to B'way". The San Diego Union-Tribune. Retrieved 9 January 2018.
- "Taking Out The Sopranos". IGN. Retrieved 9 January 2018.
- Hinson, Hal (13 May 1989). "'See No Evil, Hear No Evil" (R)". The Washington Post. Retrieved 9 January 2018.
- "The Mephisto Waltz: An underrated doozy of a horror film". Fantasy Literature. Retrieved 9 January 2018.
- Maslin, Janet (22 May 1981). "'Four Seasons,' A Hymn to Ordinariness". Retrieved 9 January 2018.
- Stempel, Kim (7 January 2014). "'NCIS' Recap: Gibbs and the Case of the Ex". Buddy TV. Retrieved 9 January 2018.
- "Mad Men S01E10 (Long Weekend)". Born Unicorn. 16 January 2015. Retrieved 9 January 2018.
- Wright, Andy (7 March 2016). "The Secrets of Set Decoration from 'Working Girl'". Atlas Obscura. Retrieved 9 January 2018.
- "Orange is the New Black S01E06 (WAC Pack)". Born Unicorn. 4 March 2016. Retrieved 9 January 2018.
- "An Empty Bottle of Shalimar: The Art of Louise Bourgeois". Mad Perfumista. 10 April 2012. Retrieved 9 January 2018.
- "#AHS". AmericanHorrorStory on Twitter. 6 Jan 2016. Retrieved 26 March 2018.