Nanaimo River climbing area
The Nanaimo River climbing area is located near the city of Nanaimo, adjacent to the Nanaimo River. The rock is mainly sandstone and conglomerate.[1] There are two crags in this area called Sunny Side and Dark Side. They are aptly named as Sunny Side is located on the north side of the river, where it receives more sun than the Dark Side, which is located in a ravine on the south side.[2] During the summer the water warms up to around 24-25°C (75-77°F),[3] so the river is visited by swimmers, kayakers[4] and fishermen.
History
Bolted routes started being set during the late eighties / early nineties.[1] Nanaimo River is not, and has never been, a developed or maintained park.[5]
Sunny Side
Getting there
Driving north past the Nanaimo Airport, take the first right off the #1 highway onto Nanaimo River Road. This road will pass under the highway, and cross over railroad tracks. Continue until major power lines pass over head. This is where you park. Walk under the power lines to the south.[6] The trail will fork into three: the first right will take you to the top of the cliffs, the second right will take you down some steps to the bottom of the cliffs, and the final path continues to the left and takes you to the swimming area.
Climbs
There are several cliff faces on the Sunny Side. The First Cliffs are literally the first set of cliffs you pass when approaching from the stairs. The Upper Deck is the higher portion of the cliffs that can either be approached from the top via the first path turning off. The Lower Deck is directly underneath the Upper Deck, and can either be approached by a rappel, or by scrambling over rocks from an approach path between the first cliffs, and the Upper Deck.
First Cliffs
| Climb name | Rating | Protection | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| God is AFK | 5.8 | bolted | |
| Lineage | 5.8 | bolted |
Upper Deck
| Climb name | Rating | Protection | First Ascent | Description |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bigger and Better | 5.11b | 6 bolts | Greg Soerensen | |
| Feeling Gravity's Pull | 5.10a | bolted | Chris Gill | |
| Finger in the Goo | 5.10b | bolted | ||
| Green | 5.8 | bolted | Chris Gill | |
| Jamaica Jerk Off | 5.7 | bolted | Greg Soerensen | |
| New Shoes | 5.11c | bolted | Chris Gill and Ian | |
| Bat Shit | 5.10a | trad (gear to 2") | ||
| Titanium Man | 5.11b | 10 bolts | ||
| The Becky Route | 5.9 | 7 bolts | ||
| Psycho Babble | 5.9 | trad (gear to 1.5") | ||
| Pseudo Placenta | 5.11a | bolted | ||
| Barking Burritto | 5.10a | mixed (2 bolts + thin cams and nuts) | ||
| Eyore | 5.9 | 6 bolts |
Lower Deck
| Climb name | Rating | Protection | First Ascent | Description |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bulgung Flank | 5.9 | bolted | Ryan Kurytnik | |
| Fluid Thrill | 5.10b | bolted | Ryan Kurytnik | |
| Butterscotch Puddin' | 5.8 | trad (gear to 2") | ||
| High Tide | 5.11d | 5 bolts | Ryan Kurytnik | |
| Lower Momentum | 5.10b | 4 bolts | Ryan Kurytnik | |
| Turbulence | 5.11c | bolted | Ryan Kurytnik | has a runout start (see Glossary of climbing terms) |
| Wishbone | 5.8 | trad (gear to 1.5" & 1 ) | ||
| Dink Charmer | 5.9 | top rope or trad | Minimal placement opportunities for trad; top rope would be safer | |
| Junkyard | 5.12a | 2 bolts | runout to the anchors |
Dark Side
Getting there
Driving north on Highway #1, take the first left immediately after the first bridge onto Spruston Road. Take a right on Riverbend Road until the end where it will turn into a dirt road under the power lines. There is a parking area at the end of the short dirt road portion of Riverbend Road, under the power lines.[7]
After parking, walk along the trail staying on top of the southern edge of the river bank. Eventually the trail will lead down into a canyon. Passing under a large bolder stuck as a chockstone, bolted routes will appear on both sides of the canyon.
Climbs
| Climb Name | Rating | Protection | Description |
| Chill Out | 5.11c | bolted | first bolted route on the left side after emerging from under the chockstone. Through a small overhang, up a corner, then right to a large ledge with anchor bolts beside a large tree. |
| Crazy Juice | 5.11b | bolted | second climb on the left side of the path, up the arête, and then mantling over a ledge to awkwardly placed anchor bolts (placed due to soft rock to the left). |
| Boogie Chillen | 5.11c | 6 bolts | This is the second bolted route on the right, starting on a small ledge. The route gets tough past the first bolt. |
| Sausage Factory | 5.10a | bolted | first route around the bend, starting on top of the retaining wall. Follow the chimney straight up to the anchor on the right hand surface. A good route for body jams and lay backs. |
| Naked in the Dark | 5.11a | mixed 4 bolts + one big nut at the top | On the clean face to the left of Sausage Factory. A crimpy surface climb. |
| Walkin The Boogie | 5.10d | 6 bolts | |
| Puppet Master | 5.12a | 6 bolts | |
| Badda Bang | 5.11a | 9 bolts | the bolts are close together |
| Badda Bing | 5.11b | 6 bolts | |
| You Can Dance | 5.8 | trad (gear to 5") | |
| Sun City | 5.10a | trad (bigger gear) | |
| The Prow | 5.13a | 5 bolts | easy climb until the crux at the top |
References
- Nanaimo River Rock Climbing Guide 5th ed
- "Rock Climbing Routes in Nanaimo River, Vancouver Island North - Rockclimbing.com". www.rockclimbing.com.
- "Nanaimo River Swimming, WildPlay Bunjy Zone, Crystal Clear Pools, Sunny Beach". www.ourbc.com.
- "Outdoor Recreation – Vancouver Island News, Events, Travel, Accommodation, Adventure, Vacations". www.vancouverisland.com.
- "Nanaimo River: Best Swimming Holes on mid Vancouver Island, BC, Canada". www.nanaimoinformation.com.
- "UVic outdoors club".
- "islandclimbing.com is for sale!". islandclimbing.com.
- "Rock Climbing Routes in Dark Side, Nanaimo River - Rockclimbing.com". www.rockclimbing.com.