Marie-Louise Bruyère

Marie-Louise Bruyère, mostly known as Madame Bruyère, or simply as Bruyère (pronounced Broo-yair),[1] was a French fashion designer of the 1930s, 1940s and 1950s, operating out of Paris, and importing her fashion lines abroad.

Marie-Louise Bruyère in 1950

Biography

Marie-Louise Bruyère was born in France in 1884, and died after 1959.[2]

Fashion career

Before Bruyère opened her haute couture house in 1928, she learned her trade from Callot Soeurs and Jeanne Lanvin.[3] Her establishment was located on the Place Vendôme in Paris.[4] An early collection in 1930 established Bruyère as comparable to Schiaparelli, Alix, Rochas and Mainbocher,[1] with her coats and tailored suits proving a particular strength. Her suits were particularly noted for their subtle and unusual design elements.[5] In August 1932 Fortune noted that her designs were rather more successful with Americans than with the French, who did not visit Bruyère's shop on the Rue de Mondovi.[6] Bruyère's designs were imported to the United States,[5] and in 1932, Fortune noted that a survey of copies of Paris couture gowns in the stores of Manhattan showed that Bruyère was the third most popular name, behind Vionnet and Lanvin.[6]

Bruyère continued to present collections during the German occupation, now taking into account the needs of Frenchwomen who needed practical clothing that could handle the bitter winters and harsh realities of life while occupied.[7]

After the war ended, Bruyère was not a supporter of the full-skirted New Look as popularised by Christian Dior, instead offering extremely simple, slim-line dresses and suits with plunging necklines in 1951.[8]

In the 1950s, Bruyère began to focus on ready-to-wear clothing.[9] She came to an agreement in 1951 with the Baron-Peters dress firm in the United States to reproduce her designs for the American medium-priced ready-to-wear market, carefully emphasising that the designs were pure replicas of her Paris collection, and not "whipped up for American tastes."[10] In 1952 it was noted that most of Bruyère's business came from American clients.[11]

In 1958 Bruyère was noted alongside a number of other female Parisian fashion designers, her designs described as flowing and ladylike, and worn by many famous actresses and socialites.[12] She is thought to have ceased business during the 1950s.[3][9]

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References
  1. Butterick dressmaking book. Butterick Company. 1940. p. 90.
  2. "Marie Louise Bruyère". www.ngv.vic.gov.au. National Gallery of Victoria. Retrieved 28 May 2019.
  3. Fukai, Akiko (2002). Fashion : the collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute: a history from the 18th to the 20th century. Köln [etc.]: Taschen. p. 713. ISBN 3822812064.
  4. International Pattern, Los Angeles Times, December 30, 1954, pg. B4.
  5. Fine Touches Make the Beauty of Newest Models Imported From Paris, New York Times, January 1, 1933, pg. X11.
  6. Staff writer (August 1932). "The Dressmakers of France" (PDF). Fortune. Time, Inc. Retrieved 19 November 2015.
  7. Fashion under the occupation, Dominique Veillon, Berg Publishers, 2002, pg. 34.
  8. Toomey, Elizabeth (8 August 1951). "Parisian Styles Come To America With Fall Show". The Tuscaloosa News. Retrieved 12 December 2014.
  9. Bramlett, Lizzie. "Vintage Fashion Guild: Label Reference: Bruyere". Retrieved 2 November 2012.
  10. Toomey, Elizabeth (22 August 1951). "Paris Springs Another Label in America". El Paso Herald-Post. United Press. Retrieved 16 March 2015 – via Newspapers.com.
  11. Bergmann, Shirley (7 August 1952). "What Goes on Behind the Doors of a Leading Fashion House". Freeport Journal-Standard. Retrieved 16 March 2015 – via Newspapers.com.
  12. Hartman, Iris (2 March 1958). "Women Lead in Creation of Fashions". St Petersburg Independent. Retrieved 12 December 2014.
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