Malcolm Smith (climber)
Malcolm Smith (born 1973) is a rock climber born in Dunbar, Scotland.[1] He is the brother of Scottish Visual Artist Sandy Smith.
Personal information | |
---|---|
Nationality | British |
Born | 1973 (age 46–47) Dunbar, Scotland |
Height | 178 cm (5 ft 10 in)[1] |
Climbing career | |
Type of climber | Sport climbing, bouldering |
Highest grade |
|
Updated on May 2014. |
Climbing since 1988, he has developed an impressive list of repeated hard climbs, notably repeating Ben Moon's 1990 testpiece Hubble at Raven Tor aged only 18.[1] Smith is particularly known for his commitment to tough training regimes and for his focus on bouldering. He is one of only a handful of climbers to have repeated the classic Dreamtime at Cresciano, and has also made first ascents of boulder problems up to Font 8B+ such as Monk Life in Northumberland[2] and Pilgrimage at Parisella's Cave in North Wales.[3]
Smith has also competed internationally and is sponsored by Scarpa and Moon Climbing.
In 2014, Smith and The Climbing Academy released a range of climbing holds under the brand Stonesmith Holds.[4]
Films
Smith's training techniques were the subject of the black and white short film Splinter by Slackjaw Films.[5] This was originally included as a free extra on their DVD "Blood, Sweat and Bagels", but has since come to be regarded as a classic climbing short in its own right.
References
- "FreakClimbing.com - Interview with Malcolm Smith". FreakClimbing.com.
- "Nigel Callender repeats Monk Life - Font 8B+". UKClimbing.com.
- "Smith Does 5.14+ Traverse - Climbing.com". Climbing.com. Archived from the original on 2008-05-22. Retrieved 2008-07-21.
- "UKC Gear - Stonesmith Holds". UKClimbing.com.
- "Splinter by Slackjaw". Slackjaw.
External links
- IFSC Profile
- "CLIMBING: World finals mark a high.(Sport)". Daily Record (Glasgow, Scotland). November 12, 2003. Archived from the original on October 20, 2012. Retrieved 2008-07-18.