La Dura Dura

La Dura Dura ("The hard hard", meaning "The really hard route") is the world's second sport climb graded at 9b+ (5.15c), and the first to be repeated. It is located on a limestone cliff in Peramola, a village in the municipality of Oliana, Catalonia, Spain. It was first bolted by Chris Sharma in 2009 and redpointed by Adam Ondra on February 7, 2013. Sharma succeeded about a month later on March 23, 2013 and confirmed the grade.[3]

La Dura Dura
LocationOliana, Spain
Coordinates42°04′40″N 1°17′16″E [1]
Climbing AreaOliana
Route TypeSport climbing
Vertical Gain50 metres (160 ft) [2]
Pitches1
Grade9b+ (5.15c)
First free ascentAdam Ondra 2013

The first two ascenders

The climb is notable for the friendly rivalry that it provoked between Ondra and Sharma, with Sharma (then 31 years old) established as the strongest sport climber in the world, and Ondra (20) seen as the first of a new generation.[4] By the time Sharma introduced Ondra to the climb he doubted that he would ever complete it himself, but he was still determined to keep trying, and he knew that Ondra was likewise searching for routes of extreme difficulty to challenge himself. They worked the route together for around a year and a half. Sharma gave guidance to Ondra, and in turn felt motivated to work harder, finding himself inspired by Ondra's intense focus. Eventually, Ondra succeeded first, in February 2013, and Sharma repeated the ascent about a month later.[5]

In the meantime, on October 4, 2012, Ondra managed to redpoint Change, in Flatanger, Norway, claiming it to be the hardest ascent in history and proposing a 9b+ difficulty rating.[6]


The climb

Ondra describes the climb as consisting of three sections:

  • A crimpy lower sequence of boulders (V9, V9, V12, V11) over 10m
  • A hard middle section with a kneebar break (5.14c) over 10m
  • An easier upper section (5.13d) to the top over 20m [7]
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References
  1. "Climbing Areas - Oliana". Climbing Away. Retrieved March 14, 2018.
  2. "Oliana". TheCrag. Retrieved March 14, 2018.
  3. "Chris Sharma, the La Dura Dura interview". Planet Mountain. Retrieved March 14, 2018.
  4. "La Dura Dura". Reel Rock S1E1. Retrieved March 14, 2018.
  5. Andrew Bisharat. "Perfect Play: What it took to climb La Dura Dura (5.15c) - The World's Hardest Route". Rock and Ice. Retrieved March 14, 2018.
  6. Dougald MacDonald (4 October 2012). "Adam Ondra Climbs 5.15c in Norway". Climbing. Retrieved 7 October 2012.
  7. Amanda Fox. "Ondra Talks About La Dura Dura (5.15c)". Climbing.com. Retrieved March 14, 2018.
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