Jim Bridwell

Jim Bridwell (July 29, 1944 – February 16, 2018) was an American rock climber and mountaineer, active since 1965, especially in Yosemite Valley, but also in Patagonia and Alaska. He is noted for pushing the standards of both free climbing and big-wall climbing, and later alpine climbing. He wrote numerous articles on climbing for leading sport publications. He was an apprentice to Royal Robbins and Warren Harding (climber).[1] He was the unofficial leader of the Stonemasters.[2]

Jim Bridwell
Bridwell in 2003
Born	(1944-07-29)July 29, 1944 San Antonio, Texas
Died	February 16, 2018(2018-02-16) (aged 73) Palm Springs, California, U.S.
Nationality	American
Occupation	Rock Climber, Author

Billy Westbay, Jim Bridwell (center), and John Long after the first one-day ascent of the Nose in 1975

Jim Bridwell in Salt Lake City, circa 1990

Bridwell is credited with over 100 First Ascents in Yosemite Valley, in addition to conducting the first one-day ascent of The Nose of El Capitan on May 26, 1975 with John Long and Billy Westbay.[3] He founded Yosemite National Park's Search and Rescue Team (YOSAR), and spearheaded many rescues that became textbook for search-and-rescue operations. He was a leading force in the changing techniques of climbing and an innovator/inventor of widely used and copied climbing gear, including copperheads and bird beaks.

Jim resided in Palm Desert, California, USA, until his death on February 16, 2018 from complications of hepatitis C,[4] which he had acquired while receiving a tattoo in Borneo during the 1980s.[5]

First ascents and notable ascents

• 1965 Entrance Exam (II 5.9), Arch Rock, Yosemite, California, USA with Chuck Pratt, Chris Fredericks and Larry Marshik[6]
• 1966 Braille Book (III 5.8), Higher Cathedral Rock, Yosemite, California, USA with Chris Fredericks, Joe Faint and Brian Berry.[6]
• 1967 East Face (VI 5.9 A4), Higher Cathedral Rock, Yosemite, California, USA with Chris Fredericks[7]
• 1967 South Central (V 5.10a A2), Washington Column, Yosemite, California, USA with Joe Faint[8]
• 1969 Triple Direct (VI 5.9 A2), El Capitan, Yosemite, California, USA with Kim Schmitz[9]
• 1971 Aquarian Wall (VI 5.9 A4), El Capitan, Yosemite, California, USA with Kim Schmitz[10]
• 1971 New Dimensions (5.11 A1), Arch Rock, Yosemite, California, USA with Mark Klemens[11]
• 1971 Nabisco Wall, The Cookie, Yosemite, California, USA
• 1970 Vain Hope (V 5.7 A3), Ribbon Falls, Yosemite, California, USA with Royal Robbins and Kim Schmitz[10]
• 1973 Central Pillar of Frenzy, Middle Cathedral Rock, Yosemite, California, USA with Roger Breedlove and Ed Barry
• 1974 Freestone, Geek Towers, Yosemite Falls, Yosemite, California, USA[12]
• 1975 Wailing Wall, Tuolumne Meadows, California, USA with Dale Bard and Rick Accomozo
• 1975 The Nose (5.13+ or 5.8 C2), El Capitan, Yosemite, California, USA with Billy Westbay, and John Long, first one-day ascent in 17:45
• 1975 Pacific Ocean Wall (VI 5.9 A4), El Capitan, Yosemite, California, USA with Bill Westbay, Jay Fiske and Fred East[9]
• 1976 Gold Ribbon (VI 5.10 A3), Ribbon Falls, Yosemite, California, USA with Mike Graham[10]
• 1977 Bushido (VI 5.10 A4), Half Dome, Yosemite, California, USA with Dale Bard[13]
• 1978 Sea of Dreams (VI 5.9 A5), El Capitan, Yosemite, California, USA with Dale Bard and Dave Diegelman[9]
• 1978 Zenith (VI 5.9 A4), Half Dome, Yosemite, California, USA with Kim Schmitz[13]
• 1979 Southeast Ridge of Cerro Torre, Patagonia, Argentina with Steven Brewer (first alpine-style ascent of the peak)[14]
• 1979 Northwest Face, "The Ship Prow" Kichatna Spire, Alaska Range, USA with Andy Embick[14]
• 1981 Zenyatta Mondatta (VI 5.9 A5), El Capitan, Yosemite, California, USA with Peter Mayfield and Charlie Row[15]
• 1981 Dance of the Woo Li Masters, East Face of The Moose's Tooth, Ruth Gorge, Alaska, USA (VI 5.9 WI4+ A4, 1520m) with Mugs Stump[16]
• 1982 South Face, "Sapphire Bullets of Pure Love" Pumori, Nepal with Jan Reynolds and Ned Gillette
• 1987 The Big Chill, Half Dome, Yosemite, California, USA with Peter Mayfield, Sean Plunkett and Steve Bosque[15]
• 1989 Shadows (VI 5.10 A5), Half Dome, Yosemite, California, USA with Charles Row, Cito Kirkpatrick, William Westbay[17]
• 1991 North Face (repeat) The Eiger, Bernese Alps, Switzerland
• 1997 Wyoming Sheep Ranch (VI 5.9 A5), (repeat) El Capitan, Yosemite, California, USA with Giovanni Groaz
• 1998 Heavy Metal and Tinker Toys (VI 5.9 A5), El Capitan, Yosemite, California, USA with Boulos Ayad and Tyson Hausoeffer
• 1998 Plastic Surgery Disaster (VI 5.8 A5), (repeat) El Capitan, Yosemite, California, USA with Mark Bowling and Giovanni Groaz
• 1999 The Useless Emotion (VII 5.9 WI4 A4), The Bear's Tooth, Ruth Glacier, Alaska, USA with Terry Christensen, Glenn Dunmire, Brian Jonas and Brian McCray May 3–21, 1999[18]
• 1999 Odyssey, Grand Capucin(VI 5.9 A5), Mont Blanc (French Alps), with Giovanni Groaz
• 1999 Dark Star (VI 5.10 A5), El Capitan, Yosemite, California, USA with Giovanni Groaz
• 2001 The Beast Pillar, (V11 5.10b WI4+ A5) The Moose's Tooth, Buckskin Glacier, Alaska, USA with Spencer Pfinsten[19]
• 2001 Welcome to Afghanistan (VI 5.9 A4), El Capitan, Yosemite, California, USA with Giovanni Groaz
• 2002 Pointless Connection (VI 5.9 A4+), Yosemite Pointless, Yosemite, California, USA with Giovanni Groaz
• 2004 Old Guides Variation (VI 5.8 A3), El Capitan, Yosemite, California, USA with Jackson Marsten and Giovanni Groaz

Publications

• Bridwell, Jim. "Brave New World". Mountain. United Kingdom: Ken Wilson (1973).
• Bridwell, Jim; Michael Strassman (1990). Climbing Big Walls. Merrillville, IN USA: ICS Books. ISBN 0-934802-59-9.
• Bridwell, Jim; Dougald MacDonald (1999). Largo's Apprenticeship in The Best of Rock & Ice: An Anthology. Seattle WA, USA: The Mountaineers Books. pp. 102–105. ISBN 0-89886-665-0.
• Bridwell, Jim (1992). Climbing Adventures: A Climber's Passion. ICS Books. ISBN 978-0934802222.
• Bridwell, Jim (2000). "The Bear's Tooth: Teaching the new dogs old tricks". American Alpine Journal. New York, NY USA: American Alpine Club. 42 (74): 37–45. ISBN 978-0-930410-87-2.
• Bridwell, Jim (November 27, 2006). "Bird's Eye View". Alpinist. Jackson Wyoming, USA: Alpinist Magazine. 18 (Winter 2006–2007). Retrieved 2008-02-09.
• Bridwell, Jim (2008). "Giovanni Groaz". The Bird. Translated by Michele Radici. Milan, Italy: Versante Sud s. n. c. p. 303. ISBN 978-88-87890-76-1.

References

1. Peter Mortimer, Nick Rosen, Josh Lowell (Directors) (2014). Valley Uprising. Event occurs at 35 minutes 30 seconds. Retrieved May 6, 2019.
2. Peter Mortimer, Nick Rosen, Josh Lowell (Directors) (2014). Valley Uprising. Event occurs at 35 minutes 20 seconds. Retrieved May 6, 2019.
3. Long, John (2000). Long on Adventure. Falcon Publishing, Inc. pp. 83–91. ISBN 978-1-56044-985-0.
4. Raleigh, Duane, "Jim Bridwell, Founder of YOSAR and Big-Wall Godfather, Dead at 73," Rock & Ice, Carbondale, Colorado, published on February 16, 2018.
6. Roper (1971).
7. Roper (1971), pp. 244.
8. Reid (1993), pp. 203.
9. Reid (1993), pp. 202.
10. Reid (1993), pp. 201.
11. Roper (1971), pp. 44.
12. Kroese, Mark (2001). Fifty Favorite Climbs: The Ultimate North American Tick List. Seattle, Washington, USA: The Mountaineers Books. ISBN 0-89886-728-2.
13. Reid (1993), pp. 205.
14. Bridwell, Jim (1979). The American Alpine Journal. New York, NY, USA.: American Alpine Club. ISBN 978-0-930410-76-6.
15. Reid (1993).
16. Beckwith, Christian (September 1, 2004). "Gods and Monsters". Alpinist. Alpinist Magazine (8). Retrieved 2009-05-29.
17. Bridwell, Jim (1991). "Shadows – Half Dome". American Alpine Journal. New York, NY USA: American Alpine Club. 33 (65): 118–123. ISBN 0-930410-46-7.
18. Bridwell, Jim (2000). "The Bear's Tooth: Teaching the new dogs old tricks". American Alpine Journal. New York, NY USA: American Alpine Club. 42 (74): 37–45. ISBN 978-0-930410-87-2.
19. Drozdz, Piotr. "Climb and More dot com Climbers – Jim Bridwell". Retrieved 2008-02-03.

Bibliography

• Roper, Steve (1971). Climber's Guide to Yosemite Valley. San Francisco, California, USA.: Sierra Club Books. ISBN 978-0-87156-048-3.
• Reid, Don (1993). Yosemite Climbs: Big Walls. Evergreen, Colorado, USA.: Chockstone Press Press. ISBN 0-934641-54-4.

External links

• ClimbAndMore.com