Große Schlenkerspitze

The Große Schlenkerspitze is a mountain in the Lechtal Alps in the Austrian state of Tyrol. At 2,827 m (AA) or, according to other sources, 2,831 m, it is the highest peak in the eastern part of the Lechtal Alps.

Große Schlenkerspitze
The Schlenkerspitze from the Muttekopf. Edward Theodore Compton, 1901
Highest point
Elevation2,827 m (AA) (9,275 ft)
Prominence445 m Gufelgrasjoch
Isolation12.5 km Gatschkopf
ListingHighest peak in the eastern Lechtal Alps
Coordinates47°15′00″N 10°37′00″E
Geography
Große Schlenkerspitze
Parent rangeLechtal Alps
Geology
Type of rockMain dolomite
Climbing
First ascent1882 by Spiehler and Friedel
Normal routeFrom Galtseitenjoch, climbing grade II to III

Summit block

The massif of the Schlenkerspitze is a rock wall of main dolomite over two kilometres long. Its north arête drops down to the saddle of Galtseitejoch, its southwest arête links the Große Schlenkerspitze to the Kleine Schlenkerspitze (2,748 m above sea level (AA)) and then drops into the Hintere Dremelscharte col. The east arête joins it to the Brunnkarspitze. The entire Schlenker massif is brittle and ruptured, the arêtes bristle with innumerable pinnacles because the rock strata are vertical here.

First ascent

The Große Schlenkerspitze was first ascended in 1882 from the Galtseitenjoch saddle by Spiehler and Friedel; the Kleine Schlenkerspitze via the southeast arête in 1896 by Ampferer and W. Hammer.

Tours

  • From Galtseitejoch, 2,423 m, via the north arête, grade II+, 2 hours
  • Southeast face, III, 4 hours
  • East face, IV+, 3 hours
  • West gully and southwest face, described as very difficult to find, grade III, 4 hours, mostly very crumbly.
  • Ascents of the Kleine Schlenkerspitze are all difficult, grade III to IV.

Literature

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