Army Mountaineering Association

The British Army Mountaineering Association (AMA) is the governing body for climbing competitions and the representative body for mountaineering in the British Army. It is a member of the British Mountaineering Council[1] and is the largest climbing club in the United Kingdom.[2]

Army Mountaineering Association
Army Mountaineering Association – colour
AbbreviationAMA
Formation1957
TypeCharitable Association
HeadquartersJoint Service Mountain Training Centre (Indefatigable), Llanfair PG, Anglesey, LL61 6NT.
Membership
circa 2,500
President
Lt Gen Ivan Hooper[3]
Websitehttp://www.armymountaineer.org.uk/

History, Organisation and Status

The AMA was formed on 24 May 1957.[4][5] It has charitable status and its constitution states that it exists 'To promote military efficiency by encouraging mountaineering in the Army'. Membership is open to serving members of the British Army and the Army Reserve. Since its inception the AMA has been involved in delivering and supporting mountaineering activity for its members. The association is currently engaged in two major areas of activity which are: mountaineering and climbing competitions each of which is governed separately.

The business of the AMA is managed by an executive committee who are elected annually. Its current president is Lieutenant General Ivan Hooper[6]

Mountaineering

The AMA organises mountaineering training and expeditions for its members and encourages them to organise their own expeditions. It makes grants from the AMA 'Memorial Fund' to help support individuals wishing to take part in significant mountaineering expeditions.[7] Since its inception the AMA has organised or provided significant support to a number of major expedition to the Greater Ranges including:

Climbing Competitions

The AMA organises bouldering and indoor sport climbing competitions for the Army. The first Army level sport climbing competition was organised at Bristol by Colonel Paul John Edwards on 28 April 1995. The AMA continues to organise indoor climbing competitions and now competes annually against the Royal Navy and RAF, as well as contributing members to the Combined Services Sport Climbing team, which competes regularly against military sport climbers from other countries.[53][54]

Prominent AMA members

The following are current/former presidents, Vice-Presidents or Chairman of the AMA.[55]

UIAGM Mountain Guides: The following AMA members have become members of the British Association of Mountain Guides

Other notable AMA Members:

  • Lieutenant Colonel Charles Wylie OBE (Ghurkas) – Organising Secretary to the 1953 British Mount Everest expedition.[61]
  • Lieutenant Colonel J. O. M. Roberts MVO, MBE, MC (Ghurkas) – First Ascents of Annapurna II – 1960, Mera Peak – 20 May 1953 and Putha Hiunchuli – 11 November 1952.[62][63]
  • Colonel Henry Day (Royal Engineers) – 2nd Ascent (and first British Ascent) of Annapurna, 20 May 1970.[64]
  • Lieutenant Colonel Jon W A Fleming OBE Parachute Regiment (United Kingdom) – Deputy leader of Greenland expeditions 1967 & 1968, Leader of Tirich Mir Expedition 1969, Leader of Himachal Pradesh Expedition 1973 & Leader of Nuptse Expedition 1975, Organising Secretary Everest Expedition 1976, Co-author Soldiers on Everest.
  • Lieutenant Colonel A J Muston, RAOC, MBE, FRGS. Vice President AMA, President, The Arctic Club (1995). Leader or member of 6 Army expeditions to Greenland in 1971, 1979, 1980, 1984, 1988, and 1989; leader Axel Heiberg, Canada expedition in 1972; and to the Himalayas in 1973 (Himachal Pradesh), 1975 (Nuptse), 1976 (Everest) and 1982 (West Nepal) with many other expeditions after leaving service in 1989 including an expedition to East Greenland in 2011.
  • Major Sir Crispin Agnew of Lochnaw Bt, RHF, FRGS (1969) – Member RN Expedition to Greenland 1966, Leader Army East Greenland 1968, Member Joint Services Elephant Island Expedition 1970/71, Leader Joint Services Chilean Patagonia Expedition 1972/73, Member Nuptse Expedition 1975, Member Everest Expedition 1976, Leader Army Api Expedition 1980.
  • Major Timothy King, RAOC. AMA Executive Committee member 1980 to 1989, Chair 1989 to 1992 and Chair Joint Services Mountaineering Committee. Started “The Army Mountaineer”, the Journal of the AMA.[65] Leader of AMA Expeditions to Liverpool Land (1989); Sondestrom Fiord (1992); member of the Axel Heiberg Island (1972), Nuptse (1975), Everest (1976), and NE Greenland (1980) expeditions.
  • Major Bronco Lane MM, BEM (Special Air Service) – Ascent of Everest, 16 May 1976[66]
  • John Stokes (mountaineer) (Brummy Stokes), MBE, BEM (Special Air Service) – Ascent of Everest, 16 May 1976 with Bronco Lane[66]
  • Major Mike Smith (Royal Electrical and Mechanical Engineers) – UK veteran sport climbing champion 2009[67]
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