The power connections from the PSU to the Graphics board, are just multiple repeats of the same thing, connected to the same places. (I have dissasembled and checked 5 total so far in my own uses). The 8 Pin has an extra ground, which makes it weird. You have 3 sets, 3 +12 and the 3 grounds on each.
Different PSUs will have multiple "rails" (seperated curcuits) or single rails carrying. This is all covered in allquixotic answer.
There is the redundancy, but much more than that. The connection points used for the connections are rated to a certian ammount of amps, when the connection there is less than best, and the GPU card is working very hard, these connection point can heat-up the metals in the lesser connection places, and melt the plastic around the connection.
An often missed point of these connections is the "Crimp" where the connections are crimped onto the wires, The crimp also has a smaller area of connecting to the wires, wrapped around touching only the outside strands and only in limited contact area. It would be very rare to see that anyone had soldered these connectors onto the wires, or added soldering to the crimp to greatly improve that connection location. Sometimes a crimp can be very poorly done also.
Add in some oxidation to both of these areas, and over time the area of the conductor to conductor molecular connection locations is very slightly reduced. Oxides of metals are very poor conductors.
But that is not all. Each of the wires has some resistance , due to the length of the conductor from the psu to the gpu. The longer the wire used and the smaller the "guage" or thickness of the wiring , the more the voltage drops from the original source (PSU) to the card (under load).
The voltage drop will also get higher as the quantity of amps increases through the wiring. (the resistance stays the same, but the current increases).
The board having its own Voltage regulation, can fix a quantity of voltage drop. Each of the boards from different manufactures will have slightly different "qualities" of this power regulation, but most of them would have minor voltage drops covered.
Each wire , connection and crimp set (3sets) of this type could usually handle 10 Amps under most conditions, before things went badly. So with that card , with no overvoltaging/overclocking it should work fine.
PSU wiring can use either smaller guage or there is some PSU using a much larger guage of wiring, It does not have to be that much bigger wire (inside), to heft a lot more amps through it.
You have it working now, and it may very well work fine forever, it should work just fine. The GPU card can also get some of its power from the PCI slot, that is a bit more (lets call it) expencive way to get the power , if somehow it was overtaxed. The greater the voltage drop on this extra wiring, the more any power from the PCI-E will get applied.
The one reason why I would not leave it that way , Sometimes a computer has a minor problem, you will always remember that that item was left undone. was not set the way the manufacture originally intended. So it will always be "wrong" even if that is not part of any problem encountered, it would still make you wonder. Over time , it will not be self improving.
Side Notes: If you get modular wiring from another PSU, they are not all connected the same way at all, so doing extra checking before adding any wiring to a modular PSU from a different one.
2The main component you should've listed is what Power Supply you are using. – Sandeep Bansal – 2014-03-18T14:27:26.480
I wish I had taken note of it before I closed up my case. I'll post it as soon as I can – wnnmaw – 2014-03-18T14:28:22.120
Stop by chat if you want to talk more or have more questions after reading my answer... But don't expect people to answer immediately; we're all lurking around, and will get back to you eventually, but you might not get a response if you stop in and wait 5 seconds and go "hello?" and expect interactivity like a telephone conversation ;) Just keep it open in a browser tab, ask your question, and wait and see. I'm in there right now but may have a response time of 5-10 minutes.
– allquixotic – 2014-03-18T14:30:28.523@allquixotic, no questions right away, I'm gonna check on the specs of my power supply as soon as I get a chance and update here accordingly, thanks! – wnnmaw – 2014-03-18T14:34:05.407
Your machine will not boot if the power supply is insufficient; which is what happened to me. – user1477388 – 2014-03-18T17:54:05.780
@SandeepBansal, updated with power supply info – wnnmaw – 2014-03-20T13:42:11.367
@wnnmaw that seems to be a no-name brand power supply. Meaning it'll be good for a short while but will give way sooner or later. I would suggest upgrading to something that will be stable. Looking for 80 Plus Gold rated PSU's. Corsair, Seasonic and Silverstone all come to mind. – Sandeep Bansal – 2014-03-21T09:38:26.150