If it residential home then you don't need any pipes, just use fire stopper in a holes if you drill through frames.
If it commercial building then you must use electrical galvanic pipes or flexible aluminum conduit and again use fire stop paste if you passing some barriers.
You are a little mistaken if you think that metallic pipes will add you "noise", no, completely opposite - it will create additional electrical shield from any noises (if you ground these pipes properly). Anyway twisted pair is already well protected from any noise, plus signal measured as a current, not voltage, so any noise will effect both wires while receivers measure differential change of current between two wires, voltage rising and falling on both ends of differential amplifier so it isn't measured at all, only deference is matter.
Regarding lightning - there a bunch other things that lightning can be attracted, if you run it inside of your attic, you are fine. First thing that usually lightning strike - it is power poll since it tallest one, has needle like end and it carry neutral wire.
Anyway you can run CAT6 without any problem for communication without any pipes at all as far as each drop isn't longer than 100 meters or 328 feet, it will work for sure if you didn't made sharp angles, and made good connections on connectors.
Unless you already have the tools, or access to them, the EMT bending tool will probably cheaper than the PVC heater will be. Otherwise, no difference between the two options. Is there a reason for using conduit at all? Once the sheet rock is replaced it should protect the cable enough on its own. If the only purpose for the conduit is for ease of replacement later, just use nylon fish line and run a length with the cable, tie off both ends at the junction box and call it good. – user686699 – 2017-01-29T04:47:01.497
The cable itself is just as much a lightning rod as the conduit, and unless you have the proper tools, testers, and experience, you are really wasting your money trying to install Category-6 cable. I seriously doubt that you can install it and have it pass the full Category-6 suite. Many experienced installers have trouble doing that. – Ron Maupin – 2017-01-29T04:53:26.500
@RonMaupin - I make Cat6 runs through a drop ceiling at my office all the time, it has become part of my "daily routine" almost. We use bulk cable, so I terminate both ends, and run from our switch over to the wall, wall fish, and add keystone jacks etc. – SmallFries BigGuys – 2017-01-29T14:56:27.257
@GypsySpellweaver - I do not believe I will need the EMT bending tool, as I have a direct line running from crawlspace to attic. Yes, the purpose of the conduit is for replacement later (if necessary, who knows what will be around in 5 years). – SmallFries BigGuys – 2017-01-29T14:58:05.320
@SmallFriesBigGuys, do you have an expensive tester, e.g. Fluke, that shows it passes all the tests in the Category-6 test suite? I doubt it does. You are better off using Category-5e, rather than wasting money and fooling yourself that you have Category-6. Just because the cable is marked that way, doesn't mean the installation is a Category-6 installation. Each cable run needs to be individually tested, and you should keep the reports of the tests on file. – Ron Maupin – 2017-01-29T17:08:08.683
@RonMaupin - very good to know. No, I do not have any of the Fluke testing tools. When I would wire at work, after crimping the end of the cable and connecting to the keystone, I would then run a speedtest to determine if it was acceptable or not. 99% of the time it was, and I would call it done! In the 1% it was not, was due to a bad crimp and I would do it again. What would be the performance difference in using Cat5E to Cat6? – SmallFries BigGuys – 2017-01-29T17:30:23.593
@RonMaupin - Also - the price diff between Bulk Cat5E and Cat6 on Amazon is roughly $20....unless these are garbage bulk cables Cat6 and Cat5E
– SmallFries BigGuys – 2017-01-29T17:35:13.7101@SmallFriesBigGuys, There are differences in all the tests. For example, Category-5e only needs to work up to 100 MHz, but Category-6 needs to work up to 250 MHz. The primary tests are: Wire Map, Length, Insertion Loss, Near End Cross Talk (NEXT), Power Sum Near End Cross Talk (PSNEXT), Equal Level Far End Cross Talk (ELFEXT), Power Sum Equal Level Far End Crosstalk (PSELFEXT), Return Loss, Propagation Delay, and Delay Skew. I have seen something as simple as which wire in a pair is on top of the twist when terminated causing the tests to fail for Category-6. – Ron Maupin – 2017-01-29T17:48:50.137