Did someone make a good plastic eplosive from HMTD?
Does a Mixture from HMTD and oil(88%:11%) detonate with fuse or only with a cap?

I've heard of an mixture made of HMTD and nitroglycerin (NG). Detonates with fuse an with cap

You'd better be PRETTY DAMN SURE that your NG is NEUTRAL though. Did you read about Cipolla's (sorry if I'm confused and it wasn't you!) little incident with HMTD and (if I remember correctly) slightly acidic IPN? = BOOM!

i've tried HMTD and liquid paraffin oil. it doesn't light from a fuse but only from a naked flame. then it burns slowly but very, very hot - it would make a great fire starter mix. i would expect it to be cap sensitive as the explosive is still present but its sensitivity is reduced.

Primary explosives like HMTD require conefinment in order to make the deflageration to detonation transition. A mouldable plastic explosive isn't likely to provide the required confinement. So you'd need a detonator in order to get a detonation. If you're using a detonator you might as well use a secondary explosive which is more suited to making plastic explosives.

although HMTD/oil has the advantage of being easy as hell to make anywhere in the world as the chemicals are available evrywhere. this means it does have an advantage in that the main charge could be HMTD/oil and the cap could be straight HMTD. this would form an explosive that is as easy to make as HMTD but due to decreased sensitivity of the main charge is safer. it is also easier to make than most secondries although a secondary is a better choice. i think also what i'm saying in this confused post is that if the world ends up in a giant war then it would be a good alternative to making secondaries.

Out of curiousity, I recently tried mixing flashpowder with Blu-tac(im not sure that everyone will be familar with this product, so here are the properties):
http://www.bostik.com/msds/msdsprint.asp?id=838341&p=0
Anyway, the blutack basically rendered the powder inert. In my opinion this because flashpowder burns rather than detonating, so the particles have to be in dirct contact which each other for complete ignition. I think the blutack got in between the particles and basically shielded on particle from the other.
The blu tack went into the bootom draw were it stayed for some time. After producing some HTMD, I filled the required number of detonators I needed, and was left with small amount of the white powder. As I was thinking of what to do with it, I remembered the blu-tack and couldnt resist. I rolled a small ball of blu tack in the powder, then needed it in. I repeated this process till no powder remained(the blu-tack could have absorbed I fair bit more I though, but didnt have more to try!)
Result was a pea-sized ball of blue-putty, I used a bic lighter to see if it was flammable. It was and it singed every hair on my hand! My opinion is the blu tack evenly heats all the HMTD to flash point: hence the HTMD particles dont have to be in contact with one another, as they are susceptible to sympathetic detonation. I only very briefly experimented with this, so dont have quantities or anything but, one could definetly produce a good putty with this, with little or no power loss.

i tried blu-tac and AP a long time a go...i discovered that mixing AP with blu-tac was possibly the best way to waste AP http://theforum.virtualave.net/ubb/smilies/frown.gif

i have never made HMTD before, so i am unaware of what you can and can not do with it
but would it not be possible to melt down some ping pong balls with acetone, and then add the the HMTD to the goo, in order to make it into a plastic explosive?? (pretty much the same as making AP Putty with PP balls...only with HMTD)

has anyone ever tried doing that?...

Doing this type of experimentation with a primary explosive like HMTD is asking for finger relocation. A friend made some HMTD putty using double base smokeless powder, it was placed in paper tubes 1/2 by 1&1/2 inches. There were 5 of these and they were placed on a small table to dry. After 1 day of drying they spontaneously detonated without any external stimulus being applied.
The table was in small pieces which were stuck all over in the walls.

could residulal acid in the HMTD destabalised the NC? now i'm scared to try this as i was going to do it this summer.

It could have been a lot of things, residual acid, crystal growth and shearing, impurities. The thing is you just don't know for sure what effect mixing primary explosives with other substances will have.
That is why it is better if they are only made in small quantities and put in detonators and not stored for very long.
There are many other explosives which are better suited for making plastic explosives than HMTD or AP.

sorry, this is quite an old post. would it have any fisk, if so list them, to mix flash powder with NC to create a plastic explosive?

I'm really tired of you ddog! You keep asking questions that could be answered by a search or a lookup in a book! And what the hell is a "Fisk"??

http://theforum.virtualave.net/ubb/smilies/mad.gifno offense.....http://theforum.virtualave.net/ubb/smilies/tongue.gif



[This message has been edited by the freshmaker (edited August 15, 2001).]

Risk, not Fisk, sorry bout dat.

I was wondering of mixing RDX with blue tac or silly putty or even the oil clays they sell in hobby shops for sculpting and stuff like that, I think it should work cause most of them act as plasticizer so the blue tac gives a good idea. Thanks

I have a post in the Low Explosives section in "Explosive Putty" so i won't go too far into detail.
I have used styrafoam dissolved in acetone
to make AP putty and it works fairly well.
I have also tried Xylene, but that didn't evaporate as fast and dissolved way too much polystyrene.
The end is result is a hard white coloured plastic-like block.
I usually make about about half a toilet paper roll size ammount (for safety reasons I let the putty dry outside)

Im working on a PDF that will deal with alternate ways to make AP and HMTD putty
(Hope this doesn't make me a KeWl, but I can assure you that i'm not)

With everyone speaking of writing PDF's, I woulden't mind putting a large collection of my picture's together in a PDF, so does anyone know of a program that will let me write PDF files on my hard drive (I've made them with the create.adobe.com web site or some dumb shit, but they limit you on file size, so I've a few crappy warez sites that I can trawl through if someone will be able to give me a program name..

The actual adobe acrobat 5 program can be found at http://24.78.209.165/acrobat5.zip

It's 100MB in size so use a download manager to resume it when it breaks.

Other freeware PDF writers can be found at shareware sites like www.shareware.com (http://www.shareware.com) or www.davecentral.com (http://www.davecentral.com) or www.tucows.com (http://www.tucows.com)

Just look around a bit.

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Go here (http://members.nbci.com/angelo_444/dload.html) to download the NBK2000 website PDF.

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How much AP/oil or HMTD/oil you would use?

I heared a friend of mine says he uses AP/Chloroform!!!

i'm not sure how much i used but i used just enough to make the crystals stick together.

Lol, I love the icon next to this thread! Nice comical touch.

Yes, that should work. It is a common method for making TNP which has been discussed before. I've never heard of anyone plasticing it succesfully with vaseline, but I haven't heard of unsuccesful attempts either so it should work. A slightly larger primary charge will be needed.

Please try to search before posting, this method has been discussed.

Yesterday I tried the mixture that I proposed in the topic. It worked greatly!
The plastic mix was filled into a film canister and detonated with a cap that contained 2g HMTD.

How much safe is the HMTD after you add oil to it?
Any ideas how to dissolve Polyurethane so you can use it with HMTD?


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