Where the fuck do I buy some cannon fuse in Canada? Local hobby shops don't carry it.

You might be able to buy it from hi-vel.com. They sell fuse there along with some other things. They dont say anything about not being able to export so you might be able to get it from them.

You tell us, we don't live there!

Alternativley, you COULD make it

Works for me!

(edit : italics screwd up :rolleyes: )

<small>[ June 12, 2002, 03:04 PM: Message edited by: richl261 ]</small>

richl261,
can you tell us how you make it exactly? maybe some pics? :)
I just buy my fuse, at some Firework shops(2hours driving, and i am in Fireworks/Chemland: Belgium they sell Visco fuse per metre for 0.90$ and rolls of 50metre for about 35$. Also different sorts of Quickmatch, wich i use with making big firework cakes:cool: )

I was reading through J's website and supposedly people have ordered from Pyrotek and Skylighter from countries other than the US and have recieved their order, but on occasion their packages have been opened.

Except Skylighter went pussy and no longer export to the UK.

Just out of intrest, has anyone from the UK ever brought any fuse, had it delivered to someone in the US, and had them forward it (in another container of some sort) to you in the UK? If so did it get stoped?

I would like to know this as I intend to just that. Does anyone know if custom's would stop it? Would it get picked up by sniffer dogs? What (if any) penalty's could/would happen if it were found by customs/the mail service.?

mr.evil...

You might know all this!

Can you get hold of Sodium Chlorate in your country? (Sodium Chlorate is a weedkiller) In England, its about 50% pure, but on the continent, its usually 99% pure!

I use the 50% stuff, because thats all I can buy.

What I do is, boil some water in a sauce pan, put enough Sodium Chlorate in to make a saturated solution, and add string.

I boil this for about 5 or so minutes, then dry it, either under a grill (electric!!) or over a radiator.

The amount of Sodium Chlorate to the amount of string/water will vary the burn time, so its best to experiment around.

Beware though, if you leave the string drying under the grill too long, it'll all go up in smoke! Its happened!

Theres a lot of files about similar methods, but this always works for me :)

I find using NaClO3/NaCl weedkiller straight from the tub (around a 50:50 ratio I *think*) and then making a saturated solution of this, pouring it over kitchen towels and leaving them to dry creates very cheap and suprisingly reliable and accurate fuses. Plus, the burn rate does not seem to increase with confinement, at least on the ones I made.

KClO3/C 50/50 on a fine cotton string with some dextrin works pretty reliable. Burn speed is not as fast as you would suspect with this composition. If you make it with NaClO3 I suggest coating it or wrapping plastic around it.

<small>[ June 13, 2002, 06:00 AM: Message edited by: vulture ]</small>

i don't have NaClO3 because it is goddamn hygroscopic! :rolleyes:
I just have KClO3, is cheaper also! (and 98% pure)

i somethimes make my fuses myself, for in fountains and flares... I just make a mix of Blackpowder+Al+NC laquer, and put a string in it, after drieng they burn quiet well(and hot). You could coat it with another layer NC Laquer but i don't think it is necessary.

newspaper\toiletpaper soaked in dissolved sodiumclorate works fine!

just dry it and cut long stripes... they have never failed!

Yeah, NaClo3 soaked tp makes pretty good fuse, BUT I made some once and wrapped it in masking to make it more durable :rolleyes: and it burned down instantly.

<small>[ June 13, 2002, 11:27 AM: Message edited by: sinstar ]</small>

I have fuse from about 6 months ago, left in a not particularly air tight tin, and it still works fine, so I dont think it absorbs much moisture from the air at all.

i use good old black match but i add ALOT of dextrin to the BP before water. i add a little water to make a paste and squash as much string (4mm cotton) as i can into it and once all the paste has been taken up i chop off the coated section of string. i then pull this tight across the span of my arms. then after streching it like this for a bit (allows the BP to go between the strands more) then i lie it down to dry. sets absolutely rock solid due to the high dextrin content which makes this fairly reliable as the fuse can;t be bent/broken easily.

WHat province are you from?
I know A place in Regina, Saskatchewan.

I am in Ontario.

kingspaz, were do you get your dextrin or do you make it out of cornstarch? It just seems yours works much better then mine.

ok, how to make dextrin:
get some cornflour and put it in the over at at least 185*C but no more than 195*C. above this temp and it begins to burn. but at 183*C starch turns to detrin. basically get the stuff called corn flour. corn starch is the american version that we hear lots about. u just heat it in the oven for about 2 hours until its all a yellow kinda colour.

í've uploaded some pictures of Visco fuse taken at a fireworks shop.
here it is:
<a href="http://www.geocities.com/tshadowpp/fuse.html?1024133448580" target="_blank">http://www.geocities.com/tshadowpp/fuse.html?1024133448580</a>

Cya :)

I have the safety fuse which you can see in the left picture. Man that burns fast, gotta run like hell.... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

I also live in Ontario and have never seen fuse for sale.
I make my own. I just use wet meal grade black powder and a tiny touch of sugar or cornstarch to make it stick onto pure cotton string. Let dry.

i've noticed that filters that i've used to filter out KClO3 from a solution burn very much like a fuse does. it just seems to turn black and have a slight bit of red where it advances. it doesnt really seem to give off that much heat that visco or have the 'fuse spit" that it does. i plan to soak some cotton string in the KClO3 solution and see how it preforms. has anyone tried dipping these blackmatch type fuses in a nitrocellulose laquer to make a waterproof fuse like real visco? this seems like a procedure that i may dream of someday.

Ive made fuse as kingspas has suggested and i havent found anything better to make. It also works quite well with out the dextrin.I also like kclo3+ sugar but use alcahol to make a paste i tried coating it in latex didnt work just burnt. The reason to use alcahol is to stop the sugar going sticky. i would just make it as kingspas suggests but BP is hard to come by

YTS, you don't have to come by BP. it can be made with a little effort. i used to make my KNO3 from NH4NO3 and KCl (losalt). then i'd make my own charcoal. you don't need the sulphur if its only to be used for fuse.
NH4NO3 + KCl &lt;---&gt; KNO3 + NH4Cl
the equilibrium tends towards the right if the solution is saturated when boiling. as it cools KNO3 precipitates but must be wash with a little ice cold water to remove chlorides present.

<small>[ July 08, 2002, 06:26 AM: Message edited by: spunkymunky ]</small>

If mr evil can buy visco in belgium & its not illegal to have fuse in uk is it legal to go to belgium & buy it & bring it back through customs instead of ordering from firefox & waiting months.
Or could you order it from belgium instead as its expensive to buy in uk

well, i don't think they will notice it when you bring some Visco with you, just keep it with you in your bag.

So they don't want to see a copy of a licence or anything else? They just ask some common knowledge questions! WOW! £3 for 50M! How many times have you bough from them? This is a major breakthrough for people in the UK if it turns out to be true.

This has to be the best first post I have ever seen :D

I once spoke to a Pro pyrotechnition to try to get her to sell me some fuse. She said that if she was caught selling it to somone without a licence she could have a £50,000 fine and/or up to 6 months in prison, and proceded to tell me to go away <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

Edit: What do you do, just turn up and ask for it or do you need to speak to them first?

<small>[ July 07, 2002, 12:24 PM: Message edited by: VX ]</small>

I just sent them an email saying:

"Do you sell fuse? (visco green)"

They sent me a email back saying:

"yes we sell it in 2.2mm and 3.3mm"

I then sent a reply asking:

"Is it sold in lengths or in spools?"

They sent me back an email saying:

"We sell it on 50metre rolls, £3 per roll

You must supply a copy of your divisonal storage or HSE magazine
license, as
well as public, and product liability cover.

As you will probably know, if we supply to you without this,
then we could
be fined £50,000... so you can see why we treat it seriously.

Thanks"

So, what's a HSE magazine license, and by "divisonal storage" do they mean somewhere safe to store the fuse? If so than what would suffice?

They're yanking your chain. Unless the law has been tightened up real bad recently, you need no kind of license to buy fuse. Think about it, why would you? I think the only thing the police do is ask suppliers to store name/addresses of buyers, so you'd be on a list with a load of other people.

You also don't need a license to buy smokeless or black powder, there's some kind of exception in the law about BP for the first two weeks leading to Nov 5th. I can't remember if it regards buying or just storing the stuff.

I also sent them an email but i got a different response. They didnt mention anything about any liscences being needed. I wonder why we got such different responses. They probally got a flood of emails asking about fuse after that link was posted. Mabe they got a bit suspicious.

Sorry I got an email from them and had to delete the post.

So how exactly did they know you'd posted it?????

Just goes to show that you need to protect your sources, use discretion in who you share them with and how you do it :rolleyes:

I'm currently negotiating with them, and I gave them the speil of not needing any license and they said that it's there company policy, and that I would need some other form of backing up i'm not going to be using it for anything other than LEGAL uses.

So I put them in touch with my local police department, and awaiting for them to send me a phone number back so I can contact them via phone, so I can go through things a little more easier than email.

So for now I would apricate it if everyone would hold off emailing them asking them if they sell fuse, as once I've got it sorted my end, I can relay what to say, and what not to say, making it easier for everyone else. :)

Thanks, after all if they get a load of emails asking for fuse they are going to get a little sniff of something fishy.

Arkangel:
Mat Lawrence is a pyrotechnician and goes around pyrotechnics sites and emailed me saying they don't give it to 'Joe Bloggs'. Which I have to respect as they don't want to get in trouble with police, etc. Sorry about getting anyones hopes up. I needed Visco fuse for fusing fireworks for some shows I am doing this summer.

I have been asked to post this:

Company policy...

Disclaimer for Supply of Category 4 or fuse Material

Category 4 material means category 4 fireworks and also includes fuses of UN0101 ,UN0105 ,UN0315, UN0454

1. I represent a company whose trade or business, or part of whose trade or business is the professional organisation or professional operation of firework displays,

or supply of fireworks or

supplier of goods designed and intended for use in conjunction with fireworks or assemblies and intends to use the firework or assembly in question solely for the purposes of testing those goods to insure that, when used in conjunction with fireworks or assemblies of the same type, they will perform their intended function or comply with any provision made by or under any enactment and relating to the safety of those goods.

2. I have adequate storage facilities

3. I am adequately insured for the use of the fireworks supplied which might include public, employee and product liability.

4. I understand it is my responsibility that the fireworks supplied are used safely and in the way intended.

5. I understand that, by definition, Category 4 Material may have incomplete ignition systems

6. I understand it is my responsibility to ensure adequate fusing is completed before firing

7. I understand in accordance with the Firework Safety Regulations 1996, it is illegal to supply Category 4 Material to persons non compliant with the exemptions specified in regulation 4 of the Safety Regulations 1996

On behalf of company.....................
Name.....................................
Sign.....................................
Date.....................................

<small>[ July 08, 2002, 06:13 PM: Message edited by: spunkymunky ]</small>

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica"> Disclaimer for Supply of Category 4 OR fuse Material </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica">Only category 4 is restricted by law according to that info. IIRC this category includes pieces like aerial shells that idiots got banned from public use.

IMO this legal stuff is all bullshit, they just don't want to sell to joe bloggs because they're afraid of any comeback. They don't just say this though, they try and through pretend legal obstructions at you.

It makes me angry that they will sell you fireworks which DO explode, rather than just sell you something that burns slow and would be hard pushed to get a 2nd degree burn from! I don't suppose they could turn you away if you turned up and asked for it there and then, if they started quoting all this crap that you need legal info and stuff. You can then turn around to them and state that you don't need anything.

I even spoke to my local law enforcement and they said as long as you/I use it for legal items such as setting off rockets and so on then there is no reason why you/I can't own it, as long as you have correct/suitable place to store/keep it.

Good lord do you UK Forumites suffer. The only thing you've got going for you is NaClO3 weedkiller, and that's not much. Does Belgium allow immigrants on the basis of "pyrotechnic persecution in home country"? It seems like an ideal place for chemists and pyros. I'd be more than willing to endure stricter gun laws for easy, inexpensive access to chemicals and pyrotechnics. On the down side, there's a bunch of languages in use and the only one of them I'm halfway decent with is French... Well, I can dream anyway.

zaibatsu said previously he used NaClO3/NaCl weed killer
(around a 50:50 ratio), mix into saturated solution and
pouring it over kitchen towels and leaving them to dry.

I find this very nice since there is no big chance of
failure in creating it, and it is simple like hell.
I'm very hostile against buying stuff you can make by yourself
and like to keep creation methods as simple as possible.

I use KNO3 solved in water in the ratio 1:3(1ml KNO3 powder/3ml H2O).
This is less KNO3 then in a saturated solution but still enough
to keep the reaction going inside a drinking straw or other closed airtight environment.

You can use a saturated solution of this as well, but to no good
since there won't be enough carbon in the paper to react with the
KNO3 so what you get is a lot of small pearl shaped solid unreacted
product.

I have this in a bowl and add kitchen paper(extra strong) into the
solution until I have enough paper to completely absorb all the
KNO3 solution. Then I press out superfluous fluid(water and KNO3)
that has not been absorbed by the paper.

I press it out to keep the KNO3 ratio down some in the dried fuse.
If there is to much KNO3 in the fuse it might cause the fuse to burn
irregularly and cause those annoying pearl shaped formations of KNO3.

Then I let it dry in the owen for 20 minutes at around 100^C to prevent KNO3 to form crystal patterns in the fuse.

<a href="http://www.angelfire.com/al/pyrotech/index1.html" target="_blank">http://www.angelfire.com/al/pyrotech/index1.html</a>

there was once a loooong thread of fuse making started by Anthony or Bob...can't remember back in 2000, have to be in archeive somewhere.
I posted once fuse making with straw, tests it several times then I got an accident with AP when the fuse melt
....straw..plastic....duh..... my kewl days

<a href="http://www.unitednuclear.com/" target="_blank">http://www.unitednuclear.com/</a>
they take small order

for you in canada
<a href="http://www.pyro-pro.com/" target="_blank">http://www.pyro-pro.com/</a> = minnesota
<a href="http://www.iowapyrosupply.com" target="_blank">http://www.iowapyrosupply.com</a> = iowa
<a href="http://www.nvo.com/bigbangcanada/door/" target="_blank">http://www.nvo.com/bigbangcanada/door/</a>
<a href="http://www.handsfireworks.com/familyworks.shtml" target="_blank">http://www.handsfireworks.com/familyworks.shtml</a> (might supply fuse)
hopefully they're close/helpful enough

<small>[ July 18, 2002, 09:27 PM: Message edited by: frostfire ]</small>

I think it was BoB, because it wasn't me.

I also recall someone, maybe Machiavelli, or Wantsomefet, making some nice fuse from silicone rubber and KMnO4.

i think it was microtek who made the good fuse from KMnO4 and silicone rubber. waterproof and flexible.

How is this KMnO4 fuse made? Specifically, does anybody know the ratios? I'm assuming that you'd just mix it up then put it into a syringe or something and squirt it out into a string?

if that's so then I think it would be possible to fill a length of tube like acquariumtubing with it, very cool idea. When you say silicone rubber I assume you mean silicone sealant.

Interesting indeed, how fast will this fuse burn?

As I remember it, it was the kind of clear silicone used to hold fish tanks together.

I can't remember how the fuse was made exactly, so I hope its creator steps forward :)

In one patent I read, they use silicon rubber mixed with magnesium and oxidiser as incendinary. What is the chemical forumla of silicon rubber?

Common silicon rubber is composed of: polydimethyl- or polymethylphenylsiloxanes (hope I got that one right, try to translate that from norwegian) with some peroxide added to make it vulcanize when heated.

I'm afraid I can't give you a specific chemical formula for silicon rubber, but the formula of polysiloxanes (silicons) is (-SiR2-O-)n, where R is either methyl or phenyl.

Silicon rubber is poly(methylphenyl)siloxanes, so maybe you could figure it out?

Lo all :)
I remember the fuse your talking about. I archived the post for my own records and so will re-post it for everyones benifit.

Microtek
Registered: Jan 2001
posted July 23, 2001 07:02 AM
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Some time ago I claimed that I was working on a new type of fuse that i would describe fully when it was sufficiently developed.
Well, now I am satisfied that I have a very reliable recipe, so here it is:
Mix 5 grams of powdered KMnO4, 1 gram of sulphur and 1 gram of silicon gel ( the substance that is used to glue the glass-panes in aquariums together ).
I suggest mixing the sulphur and KMnO4 first to insure a sufficiently uniform mix.
Knead this mixture well, and then roll it out with a board so that You end up with a cord of about 4 mm thickness.
Let it cure overnight and then cut it up into suitable lengths.
The final step is to wrap it in electricians tape ( preferably lengthwise; that is perpendicularly to the normal wrap-up vector ), two wrappings are sufficent with the type of tape that I use.
Now for the specs:

Burn rate: ca 30 sec per 3 cm
Flexibility: A 3 cm piece will bend more than 180 degrees with no damage to the core, though some types of tape may not.
Water Resistance: Core does not soak at all and will survive any amount of rain or submersion. With the described wrappings, fuse will burn submerged.

A variation can be made by using 8.5 g KMnO4 and 2 g silicon gel. This will give a less mechanically stable product, but will burn at a rate of ca 40 sec per 3 cm and will produce less smoke. Water resistance is similar.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Hope it helps
FS

silicon gel & silicone glue are NOT the same !

silicone glue = used to glue parts togetter, water-resistance used in badrooms (and aquaria)

silicon gel = used to keep moisture away from moisture senstive objects. Silicon gel = very hygroscopic.

You mean silicone glue.

------------------------------------------------
actually its silicA gel used to keep things dry. whether what he calls silicon sealent is what you call it or not atleast get what you're being picky about right. - kingspaz

<small>[ July 27, 2002, 04:56 PM: Message edited by: kingspaz ]</small>

Well, what can I say, I belive I have found my favorite home-made fuse(Microtek!). The KMnO4 + S + Silicon sealant fuse works exelent, burns very hot and consitent. This was the "undried" product, have to wait until tomorrow to test the "dried" product. I have tried silicon sealant with BP and the dried and the undried burnt at the same speed(it was very shitty by the way.) I'll post some pictures too.
The only thing that worries me is possible reactions taking place between KMnO4 and the sealant, no?

Agreed. I tried some of this stuff out and damn, it's real nice. It burns nice and hot, it's easy to make and best of all, it's waterproof! :D

Anyone try burning it in a length of aquarium tubing? I would try it but I have no sulfur or sealant at the moment. I'm guessing that this stuff if in a tube would have greatly increased strength and would be very easy to make long long lengths that could be coiled.

<small>[ July 29, 2002, 02:31 AM: Message edited by: PYRO500 ]</small>

I tried some of this fuse again today, this time I wrapped it in tape that doesn't burn well. The burn speed increased several times as expected. With tubing you will have a very fast fuse.
If you want it to burn somewhat slow, use electrician's tape. Tried it underwater too, works well. I will make some more soon.

I had a nice dream this weekend.

I used a 9V battery, some electrical wire and the KMNO4+Silicon
sealant fuse as delay in my underwater shaped charge.

I was diving at an abandoned industry harbor ~5m underwater and found a nice test sample.

It worked as planned. A loud thump and a nice little hole,
(~20mm in radius, penetrated ~4mm steel w/o problem it seemed).
I was above the surface when the SC detonated.

Noone lost any limbs during this experiment, though I saw alot of
dead little fish babies when I dived down to check the sample, so
there might have been some kind of abnormal preassure down there :)

The KMNO4 silicon fuse is indeed more sophisticated when the old
KNO3/paper fuse I used before. Wish I had a better cam then my
shitty web cam so I would be able to take some nice pictures of my dream. :)

Any specifics on this "underwater shaped charge"?
Explosive(s) uses, cone material, standoff, SC-casing?
How long was the fuse, what was the fuse casing? Were you in the water when you ignited the fuse?
Loads of questions I know. :p
By the way, I sent you an e-mail.

<small>[ July 30, 2002, 12:00 PM: Message edited by: xoo1246 ]</small>

Not much to say about the shaped charge, I used 250gram of AP since
it was getting a bit to old and I had no use of any blasting caps.
There is much more to add about the underwater part of the device.

I did not check the cone angle but it is &gt;90 and is not regular in
any way and the jet created from it will pretty much suck due to
the irregularity in the cone. It is the same cone that can be seen on
pics on the ftp.

I used an ordinary 2l plastic coke bottle and the shape of the device is
not really optimal as a SC but 250 gram AP and a few layers of AL foil cone
is more then enough to blast a hole through a 0.5cm steel barrier even if it is underwater.

(The jet does not collide with much water since you have an object
filled with air in front of the cone.)

Water part.
~~~~~~~~~~
I used another 2l coke bottle and cut it into 2 and let the bottom be on top of the
charge and the top was placed at the bottom of the charge to give it about
150mm air gap between the target and the end of the AL cone.
Pretty similar to the the method mentioned in cia-improvised-sabotage-devices_pdf. All of this was waterproofed by silicone, same as the fuse was made of.

Bottle 2(the outer shell) was filled with sand after the fuse was inserted into
a thin rubber/plastic hose with 5 gram AP blasting cap at the end surrounded
by a thin layer of AL foil and waterproofed.

The AL foil/AP detonator was waterproofed by KMNO4/silicon/sulfur mix in a KNO3/paper fuse.

The length of the fuse was a bit past 750mm and if I ever dream a similar dream I'll shorten
it to about 500 or less.

The device was ignited after it was placed to the object and I went up to the surface and
watched it from there. I did not check the time from when I ignited to when it detonated but
I estimate it to be 3 minutes maybe more...

Since the device was airtight and the outer shell was also airtight I had to make another
kind of ventilation thing to not make the whole thing blow itself up by the expanding fuse gas.

At first I was thinking of unscrewing the lid of the outer bottle when the fuse was ignited, but
that felt to unsafe and I decided to do it in a more complicated way.

This was made by a 350mm plastic pipe with one sealed end and one open.
The open end was inserted into the outer bottle after the fuse was inserted into the pipe
and 4 holes at the top of the pipe made sure expanded gas was left out of bottle 2.

The holes was tightened with a rubber band keeping water out from the pipe but letting gas out.

[edit]: Any more questions?

<small>[ July 30, 2002, 09:40 PM: Message edited by: FarbrorBosse ]</small>

You can order fuse, kinda expensive, from <a href="http://www.cannonfuse.com/" target="_blank">http://www.cannonfuse.com/</a>

Also on the site you can buy "THE PREPARATORY MANUAL OF EXPLOSIVES" SECOND EDITION. Anyone have this? Is it any good?

shrek

Yes ive got that book. Its very good but its not for people who dont have access to restricted chemicals etc. Its a serious manual and alot of the procedures require expensive glassware. If you cant get good glassware and hard to find chemicals then the book isnt going to be of much use to you.

Ok, thanks. Just saved me $43.00. The rest of the books on the site look like crap, "Exploding Arrow Plans", and "Thermite", etc, so i'll just stick with the fuse. "THE PREPARATORY MANUAL OF EXPLOSIVES" looks long, over 300 pages, and since it is not of much use to us (me anyway) I wont bother asking you to scan it and put it on the ftp, if it aint already there.

shrek

I've also been planning on getting fuse from there, my current fuse supply is from dissasembled bottle rockets :rolleyes: . Has anyone actually ordered from them? If so, did everything go smoothly?

side note: See that pic on the main page of the guy with the big ass roll of fuse? His shirt's on backwards. I know because I have it too (but I don't wear it anymore, its kind of kewlish)

<small>[ July 31, 2002, 01:50 AM: Message edited by: EP ]</small>

has anybody found a source for hollow candle wicks? i read somewhere that if you inject BP paste into the core then coat in NC laquer it works really well. haven't tried it though because i can't get the wick <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="frown.gif" />

Instead of using tape on your KMnO4/S/silicon fuse. A better alternative could be to cover it with another thin layer of silicon. This way, you don't have to mess with tape, you get a mechanically better fuse, the layer is clear and you wont stain your fingers if you don't use gloves. It works well under water too. By the way, 250 grams of AP, swiming around in the sea(!?), I wouldn't do it.
Here are some burn test pictures:

Burning in air:
<a href="http://w1.478.telia.com/~u47802930/fuse01.jpg" target="_blank">http://w1.478.telia.com/~u47802930/fuse01.jpg</a>
<a href="http://w1.478.telia.com/~u47802930/fuse02.jpg" target="_blank">http://w1.478.telia.com/~u47802930/fuse02.jpg</a>
<a href="http://w1.478.telia.com/~u47802930/fuse03.jpg" target="_blank">http://w1.478.telia.com/~u47802930/fuse03.jpg</a>
<a href="http://w1.478.telia.com/~u47802930/fuse05.jpg" target="_blank">http://w1.478.telia.com/~u47802930/fuse05.jpg</a>
<a href="http://w1.478.telia.com/~u47802930/fuse06.jpg" target="_blank">http://w1.478.telia.com/~u47802930/fuse06.jpg</a>

Burning under water:
<a href="http://w1.478.telia.com/~u47802930/fuse07.jpg" target="_blank">http://w1.478.telia.com/~u47802930/fuse07.jpg</a>
<a href="http://w1.478.telia.com/~u47802930/fuse08.jpg" target="_blank">http://w1.478.telia.com/~u47802930/fuse08.jpg</a>
<a href="http://w1.478.telia.com/~u47802930/fuse09.jpg" target="_blank">http://w1.478.telia.com/~u47802930/fuse09.jpg</a>
<a href="http://w1.478.telia.com/~u47802930/fuse10.jpg" target="_blank">http://w1.478.telia.com/~u47802930/fuse10.jpg</a>
<a href="http://w1.478.telia.com/~u47802930/fuse11.jpg" target="_blank">http://w1.478.telia.com/~u47802930/fuse11.jpg</a>

Other:
<a href="http://w1.478.telia.com/~u47802930/fuse04.jpg" target="_blank">http://w1.478.telia.com/~u47802930/fuse04.jpg</a>

Edit:

Yesterday I made a small L.E. device(25 grams PB, paper casing reinforced with heavy tape), added a two minute fuse and a large stone. Went down to the lake an lit the fuse. Threw it in the water, waited..... and thump, and a very reduced sound and a little cloud of gases and smoke. Fun for something assembled within a few minutes. I like this fuse especially the slow burn speed and reliability. Could be used as a delay in rockets, and shells to. Or as stars/incendinary if you form balls of it.

<small>[ July 31, 2002, 01:13 PM: Message edited by: xoo1246 ]</small>

Incidentally, considering the title of the topic, canonfuse.com says:

"NO FUSE SALES TO CANADA, MEXICO OR OVERSEAS"

Ya... just noticed that. I read the page untill right before that where it says "Canada orders add $1 to $3 for shipping depending on size (its up to you)"

EDIT:

But that is only for the tubes...

shrek

<small>[ July 31, 2002, 04:01 PM: Message edited by: shrek ]</small>

I just recived an order from www.UnitedNuclear.com that included Al powder and Mg ribbon, I didn't ask for fuse but you may want to try ;)